...in which we ramble up remote Liddesdale in the extreme north-east of Cumbria to uncover the remarkable history of a unique independent territory transformed into a bloody borderland.
In the company of author and academic Graham Robb we set out from Kershopefoot along the trackbed of the historic Waverley Line, taking in the landscape of the once-unique enclave between England and Scotland; an uninhabited ‘batable’ grazing land bounded by the rivers Liddel, Esk and Sark that formed a buffer zone between often warring nations.
Stepping into the Scottish Borders, we discuss the popular perception of the ‘reiving’ families who lived around this anomalous territory – the Elliots, Armstrongs and Grahams – and the raids that saw cattle rustled and fortified peel towers set ablaze.
Surveying moorland and scattered woods to rising Tinnis Hill, Graham outlines a parallel history; one of stability, in which a raid was not thuggery, but a coming-of-age ritual/form of trade in an advanced pastoral society with strict Border laws that kept the peace for 1,500 years.
Passing meadows with folds and dips that made ideal hiding places for rogues and raiders, we move into the mid-1500s, when the English and Scots crowns orchestrated a plan to carve up the Debatable Land by making lawlessness legal, preparing the ground for characters like ballad outlaw Kinmont Willie and the sadistic Duke of Buccleuch to conduct reigns of terror.
Closing in on Liddel Water, we learn about the end of the Debatable Land, and the “astonishingly beautiful and accurate map” (below) that recorded the establishment of what Graham argues is “the oldest detectable territorial division in Great Britain”.
Reflecting on the violent excesses that wiped the one-time grazing lands from the map, Graham discusses the long shadow cast by imperial colonialism, the persistent discomfort over cross-border marriage and the independent spirit that lingers in border folk.
We close with our quickfire questions, where Graham recalls a relationship-testing ascent of Swirral Edge, waxes lyrical about the definitive descriptions of Cumbrian rain in Rogue Herries and notes the advice he was given before moving into the borderlands – to “leave the pub by 9.30 at the latest”.
…in which we take a midsummer stroll through Hawkshead to learn about the village's deep history and its tiny school that had a big impact – not just locally, but on the world stage.
Accompanied by Joanne Heather, director of the Hawkshead Grammar School Foundation, we set out from the meadows above the village to explore Hawkshead’s long history – its Norse roots, the chapelry that served Furness Abbey, and the wool trade that put the market town on the map, long before neighbouring Ambleside, Coniston and Windermere.
Visiting the church of St Michael & All Angels, Joanne introduces us to the Sandys family of Graythwaite, and Edwin Sandys, Archbishop of York during the reign of Elizabeth I, who founded the school to train new generations of clergy.
Arriving at the Grammar School, museum assistant manager Hollie Barker talks us through life at the school: the hours of Latin and scripture; the cock fights and sword fights; the strict rules that allowed boys (no girls) to smoke and drink, but never gamble.
In the confines of the school library, we learn about old boy and London vintner Daniel Rawlinson – great grandson of Daniel Hechstetter, the patriarch of Keswick mining – who founded the school's collection of priceless books, which includes a guide to dissecting elephants.
Finally, we turn our attention to the school’s most famous alumnus, William Wordsworth, enrolled into the school after his mother’s death, who excelled at maths and who led a seemingly idyllic school life ’midst the family trauma, with days off spent ice skating, visiting the Duddon sands and eating strawberries and cream.
...in which we return to 19th-century Maryport in the company of author Simon Francis Brown to explore the world of regional shipbuilding through the exquisite illustrated journals of master shipbuilder Kelsick Wood.
Starting our walk at the Shipping Brow Gallery overlooking the River Ellen, we set the historic context for Kelsick’s arrival in Maryport in around 1818 – Britain as a maritime superpower, the age of empire, the political endgame of slavery – and paint a picture of the town’s bustling harbour, its numerous taverns, the lavish dinners held for Lord Senhouse, the squalor of many residents.
Battling weather on the harbour wall, we introduce Kelsick Wood, the Workington-born shipbuilder who travelled the world before acquiring the family yard at Maryport and starting the illustrated journals (excerpts below) that Simon discovered in a Greenwich archive.
Sheltering from the gale in a harbourside ginnel, we discuss the business of shipbuilding: the crafts required to bring together a finished brig; the unforgiving economics of timber imports; the impact of Cumbrian weather on operations; and the insurance stranglehold held for a time by London shipbuilders.
Retiring to the Golden Lion – where Kelsick spent many of his working hours entertaining potential customers and networking with the Maryport elite – we learn about the politically progressive family man who grieved the loss of a wife and six children, before winding down the podcast considering the numerous pressures which built on domestic shipbuilders – from overseas competition to the introduction of iron hulls – signalling the end of the age of sail.
...in which we climb Walla Crag in the company of academic and Back o’ Skidda’ resident Dr Liz Woodham for a deep dive into the history of guidebooks dedicated to fell-walking in Lakeland.
Striding out from Surprise View, we set the historic context for the emergence of the walking guidebook – the earliest travellers seeking low-level views from Thomas West’s formative Guide to the Lakes (1778), and the use of paid mountain guides, often shepherds, taking well-heeled visitors on mountain adventures.
‘Roving Laker’ Harriet Martineau’s Complete Guide to the English Lakes(1855) was among the first to speak to fell-walkers, Liz tells us, with an ascent description of Fairfield that was – like the woman herself – quietly revolutionary.
On the long climb of Cat Gill we discuss the forgotten Victorian colossus of Keswick, Henry Irwin Jenkinson, who compiled the most authoritative guide of its era, his Practical Guide to the English Lake District (1872), in just seven winter months (he would go on to consult on mountain rescues, and organise the Latrigg Fell Mass Trespass of 1887).
Entering the age of M. J. B. Baddeley, we turn to his evergreen (tiny type) Thorough Guide to The English Lake District – first published in 1880 and still selling nearly a century later. We consider the democratisation of travel, and walking, in the age of rail, and the changing nature of the guidebook, as fells received dedicated chapters and publishers augmented directions with maps.
Atop breezy Walla Crag we talk about the contribution of The Rev. H. H. Symonds – committed to “rescuing scraps of natural beauty” – who published a kind of ‘campaigning guidebook’ in his classic highbrow Walking in the Lake District (1933), and the very different books of his contemporary, outdoors advocate W. T. Palmer, who urged readers to get off the beaten track and take walking tours between youth hostels in his Penguin Guide, The Lake District (1939).
Finally, on Falcon Crag, after a discussion of Walter Poucher’s photographic guides, we arrive at the master himself, Alfred Wainwright, whose uniquely artisanal take on the format turned the guidebook into companionable pocket art.
Back at Ashness Bridge, we reflect on the factors that make for the perfect guidebook – portable, easy to use, with an intuitive blend of text and imagery – and ask Liz to name her favourite guidebook; to consider where guidebooks go in the post-AW digital age; and to tell us why Steeple remains aloof in her 214 completer’s list.
...in which we visit springtime Allan Bank to explore the forgotten phenomena of the Grasmere dialect plays – celebrations of Westmorland dialect and life that put Lakeland on the national cultural map for nearly 40 years – and the woman behind them, Eleanor Rawnsley (née Simpson), second wife of Canon Hardwicke Rawnsley.
In the company of Eleanor's great-niece, Harriet Spence, and academic Sue Wilkinson, who has resurrected the plays for a modern audience, we discuss the emergence of the turn-of-the-century village drama movement and Eleanor's relocation from London to Grasmere, where she acquired a passion for local dialect.
A series of clips from the plays featuring members of the Lakeland Dialect Society illustrate recurring themes: local traditions like rushbearing and pace egging; marriage proposals (and refusals); vignettes of everyday life including sheep-clipping and children's games.
As Sue describes the plays' extraordinary rise in national fame – which brought queues over Dunmail Raise and reviews in papers worldwide – Harriet details the developing three-way relationship between Eleanor, Canon Rawnsley and his increasingly frail first wife, Edith.
Emerging from World War II, we consider the demise of the plays, the death of Edith, and the short-lived marriage between Rawnsley and "True Help Meet" Eleanor.
Harriet closes the podcast reflecting on the life of her "quiet, pious and kind" great aunt, whose achievements have been overshadowed by her husband, but who was not only a remarkable author and producer of plays, but also a formidable painter, campaigner and champion of all things Lakeland.
...in which we return to the golden age of speed records in the company of Dr Keith Mitchell, who was a teen when Bluebird K7 made its tragic final record attempt on Coniston in January 1967, and who has researched all things Campbell ever since.
Setting out from the heart of Coniston, we introduce risk-taking Sir Malcolm Campbell – the 'national hero' record-breaker of the inter-war years – and the frenetic home life into which son Donald was born.
Approaching Coniston Water, we consider young Donald's emergence from his capricious father's shadow, and his lifelong desire to seek paternal approval – even after Malcolm's death. Arriving on the lakeshore, we learn about the historic context of post-War speed records and the meeting of man and jet-powered machine that allowed Donald to set seven world water speed records between 1955 and 1964, inching him ever closer to the holy grail 300mph.
As waves lap the Water's gravelly shore, Keith describes the jet-powered hydroplane's final voyage, the somersault that ended Donald's life, and the speed king's final words, which offer insights into what went wrong as the craft surpassed 320mph.
Closing the pod at Donald's grave, we hear the postscript tale of the craft's recovery and rebuild, and reflect on a remarkable man piloting a remarkable craft in a remarkable place.
...in which we pull up a pew at St Oswald’s Church, Grasmere, for a wide-ranging chat about faith in the hills, fell-running and the day-to-day life of the rural vicar.
Opening the podcast, we reflect on the personal and faith journeys that have led Lawrence Basham (rector of the Parish of Grasmere and Rydal), Charlie Day (curate of the Binsey Mission Community) and Sam Bentham (intern at Grasmere and Rydal) to the Lakes and consider the ‘no two days the same’ reality of life as a vicar in rural Cumbria.
Turning our attention to St Oswald’s, we delve into the history of a wood-carved pulpit that links Sam Read Bookseller, a near-tragedy in the church and Greenup Edge; and consider why Grasmere Rushbearing plays such a key role in the life of the village.
Disappearing down a fell-running rabbit hole, we discuss the inaugural ‘Rector’s Run’; the remarkable community of those who run in the fells and the spiritual ‘settling’ that happens when moving through wild places, before Charlie describes a heart-stopping moment in Wasdale (’Swing Low, Sweet Chariot!’) at the head of Joss Naylor’s funeral cortège.
Closing our conversation, we play Cumbrian church Top Trumps (and are spoiled for choice); consider our guests’ favourite time in the church year; and brainstorm a new event for the Lakeland calendar – a drive-in midnight mass (or should that be moss) at White Moss... You heard it here first...
...in which we head south over a snowy Dunmail Raise to immerse ourselves in the world of Arts and Crafts at Blackwell.
In the company of Niall Hodson, Keeper of Collections at Lakeland Arts, we start our conversation taking a long view over wintry Windermere and the context in which the Arts & Crafts movement emerged – the rise of mass production in the Victorian age.
Paying homage to John Ruskin – over the hill in Coniston – we consider the polymath visionary’s founding contribution to a movement that encompassed social justice, art and architecture, and the impact of his iconic treatise The Stones of Venice that called for traditional craftsmanship, simplicity and the use of natural materials in everything from furniture to buildings.
Entering Blackwell, we are immersed in the movement made real, with immaculately detailed stonework, wood carvings, floor tiles, stained glass and wallpaper showcasing the creative talents of dozens of local craftspeople, all designed into a coherent rural retreat for the wealthy Holt family of Manchester.
Wandering through room after enchanting room, we meet two more key figures whose lives are intertwined with the house: William Morris – the revolutionary designer, craftsman, social activist, and founder of Morris & Co – and Blackwell architect Mackay Hugh Baillie Scott, whose extraordinary vision gave rise to one of Lakeland’s finest, and most eccentric, houses.
In divers quickfire ramblings that take in pubs, breweries and stag do’s, we proceed into Blackwell’s recent past, and its second life as an evacuees’ boarding school, before closing by considering the legacy of one of the country’s most important arts movements – as relevant as ever in the age of AI.
...in which we embark on a memorial walk to Innominate Tarn on Haystacks to ask the question: How did fell-walker Alfred Wainwright impact on so many lives?
Closing a year of AW anniversaries – including the 70th anniversary of the publication of his first Pictorial Guide – we set out from Honister in the company of a string of guests whose lives have been touched or changed by the Blackburn-born rambler, artist and guidebook writer.
Chatting as we wander – through dense clag and worsening rain – we meet walker Richard Jennings, who completed his 214 at 2:14 on the 21st of the fourth, 2014 (definitely not an obsessive!), and who credits AW with his move to the Lakes.
We catch up with geographer-legend Chris Jesty – the only person authorised by AW to update his Guides – who chats about camping on Scafell Pike for six months "waiting for clear weather", about the 10-year three-month update odyssey, and why the Howgills and Outlying Fells are his backwater favourites.
Arriving at Dubs Hut, we are joined by brothers Mike and Paul Duff from Kendal. who accompanied dad Percy and Betty Wainwright onto Haystacks in March '91 to scatter AW's ashes, and who recall their old family friend – the "foreigner from Blackburn" who sunk roots deep in Westmorland.
Anna Nolan from Keswick is our next guest – a bagging record-breaker currently on her 11th round of the Wainwrights by bus, with a cumulative tally of 6,000+ fells and counting.
Sculptor Clive Barnard recounts his experience of working with AW on the bronze bust now resident in Kendal Museum, remembering the 'big, amiable bear' with a commercially savvy mind who made "awful" cups of tea.
In thickening clag, we meet Chris and Lorena Linke from Florida, who fell in love with long distance walking, after completing AW's Coast to Coast Walk, and discuss the under-acknowledged community created by the C2C, life lessons taught by through-walks, and the unique storytelling artistry of the Guides.
Arriving at our pilgrimage end-point of Innominate Tarn, we pay our respects to former Westmorland Gazette print manager Andrew Nichol – one of the unsung heroes of the AW story, who did so much for the ex-fellwanderer, his book sales and his profile. Beside the hallowed 'gravely shore' of the misty tarn, Chris and his wife Priscilla reflect on Andrew's legacy, and the poignant 'guard of honour' final trip he made onto Haystacks to say farewell to his old friend.
Happy New Year to all, from Mark and Dave!
...in which we select the best bits from our second Cumbrian Christmas Cracker, a celebration of all things festive in the historic counties of Cumberland, Westmorland and Lancashire north-of-the-Sands.
In the company of historian and author Alan Cleaver; broadcaster and food historian John Crouch; journalist and historian Sue Allan; and musicians Carolyn Francis (fiddle and vocals) and Mike Willoughby (vocals, bouzouki and melodeon), we enjoy a miscellany of nostalgic readings, letters, poems, music and dialect – all recorded live at Theatre by the Lake, Keswick.
Join Canon Hardwicke Rawnsley skating on Derwent Water; 'Hunsup through the wood' with the Christmas waits; take a gastronomic journey through Cumbrian culinary history starting with the Romans and their winter Satarnalia; and enter the weird world of wholesome lectures and gymnastics (no rice! no sugar!) at Blennerhasset.
Advancing in time, we hear letters from the 1914 Christmas Truce; attempt to make a turkey from breadcrumbs; head 'Down t'Lonnin'' with Sue; then descend on Keswick for the Old Folk's Christmas Do before playing out with the raucous 'Bleckel' Merry Neet'.
...All this and more in the penultimate Countrystride of 2025, before Mark signs off revealing the toys of his childhood, and why Santa won't be downing any bitter this year.
Mark and Dave extend to all listeners a very Happy Christmas.
...in which dazzling autumn light illuminates a breezy walk between Ambleside and Elterwater in the company of art historian Dr Lizzie Fisher, where we discuss the remarkable life of the groundbreaking 20th-century German artist Kurt Schwitters, who died in exile in the Lake District.
Born in 1887 in Hanover, Lizzie introduces us to the pioneering modern artist, and the wandervogel ‘back to nature’ youth movement that was a reaction against capitalism and industrialisation. Pausing to enjoy views over Fairfield and Wansfell, we consider the scientific and social revolution of the ‘fizzing’ inter-war years and artists’ subversive responses to the rise of national socialism.
Finding himself on the Nazi’s list of degenerate artists, we follow Schwitters as he abandons his first immersive ‘Merzbau’ in flight to Norway and thence to internment on the Isle of Man, where the gregarious creative entertained inmates by crafting porridge towers and howling at the moon.
Introducing Edith ‘Wantee’ Thomas – Schwitters’ latter-day support and companion – we enter the artist’s Lakeland years, highlighting the confident, prolific and underacknowledged second artistic life (540 works in three years) that started when he settled in Ambleside, and the oft-epic walks he undertook as Westmorland became home.
Finally, we learn about the chance encounter that led Schwitters to the Cylinders Estate in Great Langdale, opposite the Langdale Estate – a one-time hangout of intellectuals – bohemians and artists, and his last great, unfinished work, the Merzbarn, in the woods north of Elterwater.
...in which we spend a perfect autumn day 'gone fishing' on Derwent Water with angler-author Eric Hope.
Setting out from Lodore, we cast our minds – and line – back to Eric's Lancashire childhood, and the day trips he made to Windermere, where he fell in love with angling and the Lakes.
With waves lapping against the boat, Eric introduces us to the pastime that has given him a career and lifelong passion; to game and coarse fishing; to lines, bait and olives.
Delving deep into the 'mangroves' of Manesty, we talk salmon on the world-class River Eden and introduce the 'holy trinity' glacial relics of Cumbria: the Arctic Charr, Schelly and Vendace.
After diversions aplenty (why ice made Keswick; the 'floating island' of Derwent Water; the monster Pike of Windermere), we consider the zen of fishing – immersion in nature, mysteries beneath the waves, a chance to properly talk.
Closing with our quickfire questions, Eric reveals his love for High Pike, the ODG, Wainwright's Eastern Fells... and Cranstons.
...in which we are joined by broadcaster, author, long-distance walker and former MP for Penrith and the Border, Rory Stewart, to discuss his new book, Middleland – Dispatches from the Borders.
In a wide-ranging discussion about the 'lost kingdom of Middleland', Dave chats with Rory about long walks through the Lake District and Borderlands, about the joys of post-walk pub stays (warm socks, a book by the fire), and the meditative pace of multi-day rambles.
Moving to farming, Rory raises the alarm over a new era of small farm 'clearance', urges caution over rewilding a heritage landscape, and argues that binary thinking is impeding a subsidy regime that would champion nature-based farming.
Grappling with a 'Middleland' identity, we consider why the reality of Cumbria – sparsely populated, mountainous, complex – questions so many assumptions at the heart of modern politics, and learn why we should not lose confidence in our National Parks.
Facing our quickfire questions, Rory describes his earliest Cumbrian memory (rescue from a snow-blocked A6 aged four), his fondness for Penrith fudge and his love of Striding Edge.
Closing on a note of positivity; Rory reflects on the fact that – despite its challenges – Cumbria remains a place in which tens of thousands of people contribute to a place that brings "a type of joy, meaning and happiness that is elusive elsewhere".
...in which we congregate in autumnal Upper Borrowdale to explore the history of Seatoller.
In the company of Steve Uglow – author of Seatoller: History of a Hamlet – we ascend the flanks of High Doat and return to the last Ice Age, when two glaciers carved out a cloistered valley.
Reflecting on the likely in-roads made by Norse incomers (did they settle in the valley? maybe), we move into the age of the Monasteries, when lay bothers from Fountains and Furness Abbeys made Borrowdale productive.
It was the Dissolution that set Upper Borrowdale on a unique course, the Great Deed of Borrowdale securing the freeholds of farmers, transforming their dwellings and safeguarding the ancient valley-side woods.
While the wealthy wad mines of Seathwaite impacted little on back-road Seatoller, the green slate of Honister bought money, miners and cottages to the growing village, and a new private road that opened the pass to motor vehicles.
Before subjecting Steve to our quickfire questions (favourite fell – Fleetwith Pike; favourite pub – The Yew Tree; favourite Lakeland season - spring, summer, autumn and winter), we follow Seatoller into the tourist age, and discuss the ‘Cambridge’ link with Seatoller House, which gave rise to the remarkable Trinity and Trevelyan ‘Manhunts’.
...in which we're joined by Jack Cornish, author, long-distance walker and Head of Paths at The Ramblers to talk about his book The Lost Paths, and the deep history of England and Wales' extensive path network.
Recorded live at June's Countrystride Live, we step back in time to learn about Britain's first paths – forged by wandering animals through the post-Ice Age Greatwood – then proceed into the era of the drovers, when food was transported through the landscape over great distances, creating many of the trails we tread today.
Turning to some of the least-known chapters in British walking history, Jack discusses the tramping networks of the dispossessed, the revolution of the turnpikes (and the bizarre protests they prompted), and the era of Enclosures, which diminished and fragmented many ancient routeways. He then turns to the post-War legislation that granted us world-class rights of way – a network that needs constant protection, including, locally, at Hayton Woods, east of Carlisle.
Diverting briefly to muse upon competitive walking (weird) and train-era rambling mania (wonderful), Jack reveals that one of his all-time favourite paths is along the Cumbrian Solway Coast and explains why paths – as the oldest parts of our heritage still used for their original purpose – are as important as St Paul's Cathedral and Stonehenge.
...in which we open Series 2 of Countrystride by exploring Eycott Hill in the northeast corner of the Lake District National Park – a landscape in recovery. In the company of Kevin Scott, Northern Reserves Manager at Cumbria Wildlife Trust, we learn about the reserve's extraordinary transformation – from near-monocultural sheep pasture to a thriving upland patchwork of wildflower meadows, species-rich acid grassland, marshes and mires.
Setting out from the botanically-rich hay meadows – in late summer bloom – we consider whether traditional management techniques might be augmented for wildlife by swapping the mower for cattle. Pausing at a badger sett and heather stands – that bloomed again the moment sheep made way for Belties – we learn about the hill's unusual geology, and how that has shaped its diverse range of habitats.
Summiting the lowly Birkett of Eycott Hill, we marvel at the 270 degree panorama, get soaked in an unforecast shower, then get reflective, asking whether the concept of the shifting baseline is still relevant in conservation, why the economics of traditional sheep farming no longer work, and why 'rewilding' is a term Kevin avoids. We close by reflecting on what the transformation of the hill can teach us about approaches to land management elsewhere in the Lakes.
...in which we take a stroll – just Mark and Dave – from Seatoller to Sty Head Tarn to announce the end of Countrystride (for now) and reflect on 149 episodes and 6.5 years of the podcast.
Under perfect Spring skies, we catch the bus from Keswick to Seatoller, where we cast our minds back to our tech- and expertise-lacking trial run above Seathwaite and share favourite memories of the hours spent in the fells since, with the Pennine Way, Goldscope Mine and Upper Eskdale all featuring among Mark and Dave's 'best in show' lists.
Arriving at Styhead Tarn, we settle alongside its sparkling waters to reflect on our lifelong love of the Lakes, before asking a series of fellow walkers about their relationship with the fells.
Turning the Countrystride Quickfire Questions on ourselves, we learn that Mark's favourite fell is Blencathra and his Lakeland hero is Hardwicke Rawnsley, while Dave gets passionate about AW and advocates the joy of a pint at YHA Ambleside.
For now it's over and out. It's been a pleasure, and we'll see you on the fells.
Mark and Dave
...in which we gather at YHA Borrowdale for a wide-ranging chat about hostelling in the Lake District: the people. the places and the passion.
In the company of Aaron Jones, manager at YHA Borrowdale; Christine Thomas, co-owner of Elterwater Hostel; and Elterwater team member Charlie Spiller, we begin by asking what fanned their hostelling flames (family holidays, illicit treks and Amsterdam's red light district respectively).
Looking back over the early, then glory, days of the YHA – when the charity operated 300 hostels; when you were expected to arrive "under your own steam";, and when guests mucked-in with chores – we proceed to today, where a professionalised 'home from home' hospitality approach is championed by both the YHA and a thriving independent sector.
Immersing ourselves in hostel life, we profile a typical working day at both Borrowdale (buzzy games room, thriving bar) and Elterwater (table service, sticky toffee pudding) before quizzing our guests on their favourite hostels.
Delving deeper into the business of running a hostel – a sector in recovery after the strains of Covid – we learn about the highs and lows of hostel operation; about the satisfaction that comes from facilitating new friendships, and about why, in an increasingly divided world, interactions in hostels are as important as ever.
...in which we head south to Pendle Hill to explore the extraordinary lives of two campaigning outdoorsmen, who helped establish National Parks, Youth Hostels, the Ramblers and The Pennine Way – 60 years young this year.
In the company of Nick Burton and Bob Sproule from the Pendle Radicals project, we set out from the Lancashire village of Roughlee, where the scene is set for the arrival of the 'two Toms' – a time where workers in the industrial north had to fight to access the hills around them.
Striding onto Noggarth Edge, where views open over the former mill towns of Colne, Nelson and Burnley, we learn about the early life of Tom Stephenson, father of the Pennine Way, who was working in a calico works aged 13, and whose life changed forever on Pendle Hill. Jailed as a conscientious objector during World War I, we follow Tom into his campaigning years, when the concept of his 'Long Green Trail' took root.
Descending to Pendle Water, we introduce the Reverend Thomas Arthur Leonard OBE, one-time minister of Barrow-in-Furness and Colne, whose commitment to social reform – and suspicion of the boozy Wakes weeks – gifted us the Co-operative Holidays Association, and its successor the Holiday Fellowship (he is commemorated in a plaque on Cat Bells).
Arriving at the last-of-its-kind Clarion House, where working class cyclists and walkers still meet for shelter, education and fellowship, we enjoy the cheapest cup of tea in Lancashire, before reflecting on the golden age of access pioneers, and their remarkable legacy.
...in which we venture west to the Eskdale village of Boot to visit the last remaining water cornmill in the Lake District.
Guided by Mill manager Kate Hughes, we explore the old gardens – a scene of watery activity, with Willan Beck tumbling over boulders and leats threading through channels to feed three wheels. Here we learn about the long history of milling in Lakeland, where over 2,000 mills harnessed power in their pre-industrial heydey.
Moving indoors, we observe the drying room, where peat briquettes, extracted from Burnmoor, were burned to dry barley – a staple part of the Cumbrian diet for generations.
Moving into the machine room – noisy with belts, drives, cogs and wheels – we consider the hard-graft life of the miller; of the Corn Laws that made of him a pariah in the hamlet; of the seasonal nature of milling; and of the mill's women folk, employed in communal baking and washing.
Outside again, walking through sun-dappled daffodils, we marvel at old mill wheels (each ground for a century or more) and the different stones used on different grains.
Finally, Kate chats about her abiding love of Eskdale; of the views from Harter Fell; of the upper Esk pools; and of the vibrant shades of autumn.
...in which we visit the far northeast of Cumbria to explore the remarkable history and remains of the Nenthead lead mines.
In the company of geologist and Nenthead Mines trustee Pete Jackson, we learn about the earliest mineral prospecting in the area, where 'the old men' sought out lead in becks, waterfalls and, latterly, artificial hushes.
Arriving at a centuries-old stone leat – still flowing – we consider the unusual addition of flag coverings, and nature's steady reclamation of spoil heaps.
Entering the hill at Carr's Level, we consider the boom years of the London Quaker Lead Company, and the values that gave rise to social housing and an early form of sickness pay.
Moving deeper into the mines – and through the evolution of extractive technologies, from hand-picking to dynamite – we proceed to the great depression that made Nenthead a truly European operation, where British, Italian, French and German miners mixed, mined and lived together.
We end our journey atop the mind-blowing 300-foot Brewery Shaft, where Pete describes the five-mile subterranean canal – once a tourist attraction – that links Nenthead to Alston.
...in which we delve into a remarkable oral history archive to paint a long-view picture of the ever-changing farmed landscape of the Westmorland Dales.
In the company of local-born John Hastwell and project officer Amanda Walters, we listen to farmers past and present as they discuss the hard-graft reality of farming the Westmorland Dales, the northern Howgills and the Orton Fells.
Looking back to the inter-War years – long before the arrival of phones and electricity in remote valleys – we hear crystal-clear memories (in beautiful accents) of life before mechanisation, when fell ponies and draft horses pulled sleds and trailers; and when 400+ farms in the area kept dairy herds.
Proceeding to the arrival of the first Little Grey Fergie, we reflect on the joys and frustrations of hay-making, and the long hours worked by farm children.
Turning to the social context of farm lives and loves, we hear about the importance of church; of the mart; and of the dances and seaside trips that bound scattered communities.
Reflecting on the priceless value of wildflower meadows and the demise of dairy in Ravenstonedale, we close by asking 'What's next?' for the farms of the Dales, and discover that one model may be a 'back to basics' approach inspired by our farming forebears.
...in which we are joined by Gavin Capstick, new chief executive of the Lake District National Park Authority, for a wide-ranging chat about the state of the Park and his ambitions for its future.
Ascending out of Tebay onto the Howgills, we learn about Gavin's Eden Valley upbringing and his first interactions with the Lake District – playing youth football – before a local government career led him to the Park Authority.
Arriving at a stock exclosure fence with emerging woodland, we talk about the balance the Park must try and strike between farming and nature, locals and tourists, conservation and development; and the inherent tension built into National Parks' DNA.
Dropping to the Lune – and a fabulous riverside path below the M6 – Gavin defines 'low impact tourism', notes the 40% real-term reduction in government funding over the past decade; outlines the pressure placed on new honeypots by social media influencers, and describes the highs (ice cream) and lows (rain) of being a Wainwright-bagging family.
Turning to knottier issues, we discuss 4x4s on green lanes; how private car use in the Park might be reduced, the strange silence of Covid lockdowns... and why Rory Delap is Gavin's Cumbrian hero.
...in which we visit Keswick Museum for a deep dive into the life of one of Romantic Lakeland's most under-appreciated figures: writer, former Poet Laureate and long-term resident of Greta Hall, Robert Southey (1774-1843).
In the company of Museum curator Nicola Lawson and trustee Charlotte May, we return to Bristol, 1774 and set the shifting social scene for the birth of a young radical – expelled from Westminster – whose education was beset by bullying.
Alongside new wife Edith Fricker and creative soulmate Samuel Taylor Coleridge, we follow Southey north to Keswick and learn about daily life at Greta Hall, where the young poet became sole breadwinner in a busy household of sisters and their home-educated children.
With tragedy a constant in the Southeys' life – four of the couples’ eight children died before reaching adulthood – we discuss Edith's enduring mental illness, the fast-growing Keswick of the early 1800s, and the great joy Southey derived from family and domestic life.
Reflecting on a (sometimes) controversial and (always) prodigious writing talent (Southey's output far eclipsed that of Wordsworth or Coleridge), we namecheck some of his finest works: from the first published version of Goldilocks and the three bears (The Story of the Three Bears) through his remarkable História do Brasil to the onomatopoeic masterpiece The Cataract of Lodore.
Brazing the frosty cold, we conclude our conversation alongside Southey's grave at Crosthwaite Church, where we consider his relationship with Keswick and the great loss felt at the death of a towering talent and an adored family man.
...in which we unwrap a selection box of our favourite clips from the year past in the company of Cumbria Wildlife Trust's Jamie Normington and Low Sizergh Barn co-owner Alison Park.
Featuring clips from, among others, James Robinson, Eileen Jones, Mark Hatton, Phoebe Smith, April Windle, Mark Cropper, Angus Winchester and Peter Todhunter, we sift through 19 episodes and 20 hours of recordings from as far flung as Newlands, Windermere, Seathwaite, Orton and Great Moss.
In our annual extended fire-side chat – in which we pick our Cumbrian Book of the Year and Walk of the year – we cover buses, bars and burial cairns; we discuss rainforests, regeneration and gathering the Rough Fell; we visit Barrow, Borrowdale and the Back o' Skiddaw; we reflect on the increasingly precarious business of hill farming; we consider Cumbria Wildlife Trust’s acquisition of 3,000 acres of Skiddaw Forest, and we close by remembering King of the Fells, Joss Naylor.
...in which we congregate at the Armitt, Ambleside for a night of readings, historic press reports, dialect poems and music that celebrate a distinctly Cumbrian Christmas.
In the company of Alan Cleaver, Lesley Park, Sue Allan and – on harp and guitar – the Cumbrian Duo, we take a nostalgic trip down memory lane (and beyond) as we learn about seasonal customs from the historic counties of Westmorland and Cumberland: of the 'Waits' who performed dance tunes in isolated valleys; of the 'Merryneets', where dalesfolk would gather for nights of feasting and frivolity; and of the carol-singers of Wasdale, fighting a losing battle against the winter snows.
Turning to dialect, Sue regales us with a miscellany of snow terms from the old tongue and champions works of the tragically underrated Cumbrian Bard, Robert Anderson of Carlisle, while Lesley reads one of the all-time classic Lakeland Christmas poems: 'Down t'Lonning'.
As we move around the county – from the Ambleside postman's path via Buttermere (and its many pies) to a west coast nativity scene – we're accompanied by winter-time tunes from Ed Haslam and Jean Altshuler, including 'Cold and Raw' and the infamous 'Bleckell Murry Neet'.
...in which Dave takes a midwinter stroll with author Polly Atkin to discuss The Company of Owls, Polly's new book about her tawny owl neighbours in Grasmere.
Climbing from Town End onto White Moss Common, we consider the recent history of the surrounding landscape – from grazed pasture through makeshift 'hutment' settlement to the rich woodland of today that is home to deer, badger, fox and numerous birds.
Arriving at a mossy oak, we learn about Polly's passion for owls, and the personal connection she formed with three new-born owlets. The little-known habits of owls are discussed – the long walks they take to explore territory; the on-and-off cohabitation arrangements of mate-for-life parents; and the pragmatic preservation of energy in death.
Arriving at a nature-reclaimed pool, our conversation skips from owls to the Romantic poets, night-time walking, mythology and bluebells.
Finally, arriving at Grasmere's Wishing Gate, we turn to Polly's award-winning Some of Us Just Fall, and talk about why the nature-healing narrative is a fallacy; and why the owls in this enchanted patch of woodland embody hope, sadness, anxiety, joy – but, most of all, continuity.
...in which we make a breezy autumnal ascent of Gowbarrow Fell to learn about the unending work of Fix the Fells.
In the company of FtF partnership manager Isabel Berry and deputy ranger Jonny Skinn, we take a long view of Lake District trails – back to the days of pack-horse routes and quarry ways – then fast-forward to the 1960s and '70s, when the golden age of rambling etched great scars into the landscape.
Advancing three decades, we arrive at the origins of Fix the Fells (it could have been 'Mend the Mountains') and the establishment of a unique partnership that now cares for 200 routes across the National Park, with a full-time team of 17 rangers and 150+ volunteers.
Proceeding up the fell – with some of the finest views in the Lakes – we learn about the science of erosion, and the multiple benefits of path restoration: for water quality, floral diversity, climate, insects and birds.
Arriving at one of Jonny's work sites, we consider the engineering behind path restoration and the psychological nudges that keep walkers trail-tight.
A sober reflection on the loopholes that mean Fix the Fells are ignored by statuary funding pre-empts a double set of quickfire questions where we chat great pubs, favourite books, autumn vs spring... and Beacon Fell.
...in which we take an autumnual stroll around Grasmere to explore the history of fell-running with runner, archivist and west coast lad Peter Todhunter.
Setting out from the village green – one-time site of Westmorland wrestling matches – we visit the field below Allan Bank, where the first known Guides Race took place in 1868.
As a traditional Cumbrian 'sports day' grew to encompass hound trailing, boating, 'high leaping' and horse-racing – alongside the emerging discipline of fell-running – we consider the locational moves necessitated by an ever-growing number of competitors (often farm workers, gamekeepers and miners) and visitors.
Moving into the modern era, we profile the first fell-running superstars, including Ernest Dalziel – the legend of Burnsall – and Keswick's own Bob Graham, who completed his iconic 42-peak Round in tennis shoes. We consider the growing list of endurance events that developed on the fells, from the 24-hour Challenge to the Mountain Trial, and the emergence of the amateur fell-running scene that dominates the sport today.
Arriving at the Showfield – site of Grasmere Sports – Peter reflects on the achievements and legacy of his much-missed friend, Joss Naylor; tells us why Robinson is the greatest fell of all; reveals why a set of the Wainwright Guides are his desert island reads; and answers the perennial Bob conundrum... why Great Calva?.
...in which we delve into a remarkable oral history archive to paint a picture of the historic Cumbrian commons as they enter a period of profound change.
In the company of local-born John Hastwell and project officer Amanda Walters, we listen to farmers past and present as they discuss the hard-graft reality of grazing the fells of the Westmorland Dales: the northern Howgills and Tebay; the Pennine fringes; Orton Fells and Wild Boar Fell.
Relishing a bounty of Westmerian accents, we consider how the commons have been used for centuries – not only for grazing, but also for supplying fuel, wool and building materials. We evoke the satisfaction of gathers past, where thousands of sheep were rounded from the common, and note the efforts required to establish and maintain a heft.
The traumas of hard winters and Foot and Mouth are recalled, as are the perils of 'totter bogs', chats with M6 truck drivers... and the wrong DofE footwear.
We close by reflecting on the many changes unfolding on these eastern heights – more trees; fewer sheep; less food; and a compromised farming system – before hearing from those who have left farming behind for good.
...in which we take an autumn stroll into Grizedale Forest with local-born author Rebecca Smith to explore the hidden history of working class people in the countryside.
Exploring the expansive pine plantations north of Satterthwaite, we learn about Rebecca's idyllic childhood roaming the Graythwaite Estate, where her father was head forester. Seeking out elusive Bogle Crag, we consider the class ambiguity of living in the shadow of 'the big house', and the mixed blessings of tied housing for foresters and farmers.
Taking a long view of the rural working class, Rebecca talks about her grandfather and great-grandfather, and the reality of navvy lives – including at Thirlmere – that were tough, transient and are largely forgotten today.
On a mission to find 'Black Apple Tree', we reflect on the social impacts of mass tourism and the risk of dysfunction in rural economies that lose the workers they rely upon. Finally, we ask: why have the Coniston raves been airbrushed from history?
...in which Dave interviews adventurer, author and multi-award-winning photographer, presenter and broadcaster Phoebe Smith about journeys of self-discovery on the country's old ways.
Recorded live at Countrystride's end of summer gathering at Kelsick Grammar, we learn about the ancient practice – still banned in this country – of pilgrimage, and hear about the great emptiness Phoebe felt on a secular walk along the Camino de Santiago.
In a wide-ranging conversation centred around Phoebe's book Wayfarer: Love, loss and life on Britain's ancient paths, we consider what role walking plays in healing trauma; why slow ways have increasing appeal in a busy world; and the deep-level connections that get forged when we follow in the footsteps of our ancestors.
Never straying far from the Lake District, Phoebe reveals her favourite fells and wild camp locations; talks about drying knickers on a Kendal stove; and recalls the Christmas she spent in a gale atop Scafell Pike.
Arriving at our quickfire questions. we consider why National Parks are visited by so few young people; we learn why Phoebe's Lakeland hero is Mabel Barker... and we try (and fail) to get Phoebe to stop talking about Grasmere gingerbread.
...in which we ascend Moasdale from Cockley Beck in the company of author Guy Richardson to take a long view of the Scafell massif and its oft-overlooked history.
Under pristine skies we ascend the 'moss valley' on a long-abandoned turf-cutters' way to reach Moasdale Col and the Duddon/Esk watershed, where we are wowed by the Alpine panorama of England's highest peaks – a view that is surely one of Lakeland's finest and one which, remarkably, has rarely been captured by poet or painter.
In a wide-ranging discussion about the Scafells' neglected history, we identify the fells' first appearence on maps, and the changing names – the Pikes of Scawfell, Scawfell Pike, Scafell Pike, Sca Fell – that offer glimpses into the influence of guidebook writers and the early methods of OS surveyors.
Recalling Samuel Taylor Coleridge's infamous descent of Broad Stand (and the subsequent first climb of the accident blackspot by his farming hosts), we consider the great conservation battle to keep conifers from Great Moss; we learn about the madcap attempts to build a road over Sty Head; we reflect on the 'Great Gifts' that secured the heights of Eskdale and Borrowdale for the nation; and we attempt to settle one of the Lakes' enduring debates: is it Scafell or Scawfell?.
...in which we tour the west coast town of Whitehaven in the company of Blue Badge guide and historic buildings expert Alexandra Fairclough. From the heart of the bustling harbour, we paint a picture of the settlement's early history – of a remote fishing village set around a tidal river – before coal transformed its fortunes forever. As the Lowther family entered the story, the town's wealth and population multiplied; coal and ship-building transforming the sheltered 'haven' into England's second largest port, trade tethered to the notorious 'Triangular Trade'. Leaving the harbour, we visit Whitehaven's informal 'old town', then proceed to the remarkable 'grid-iron' planned streets that introduced Grand Tour designs to Georgian Cumberland, and which inspired similar layouts in New York City. Admiring designed 'vistas', a bounty of listed buildings – more per quare mile than in any other UK town – and rare one-time warehouses, we discuss the end of many eras, and reflect on the 'gem' town of today.
...in which we tell the 1,000-year story of cartography in the historic counties of Cumberland, Westmorland and Lancashire with author, academic and cartophile Bill Shannon.
When does the name 'Cumbria' first appear on a map? Who were the men – entrepreneurs, oddballs, fraudsters and visionaries – who developed the skills of surveying and map-making over generations, often for scant financial rewards? How did the remarkable Christopher Saxton undertake the first county surveys – to make the definitive maps of England that were still being used two centuries later? When were the first scientific surveys carried out, and what role did the Ordnance Survey play in popularing maps for the 'everyman'?
In this amiable chat covering ten centuries of map-making, we talk triangulation and tourism; contours and cartouches; and nymphs, monks and memories of map-reading on a misty Blencathra.
...in which we stride out from Seatoller in the company of conservationist and lichonologist April Windle to explore the Celtic woodlands of Borrowdale and celebrate the designation of a new 721-hectare (1,782-acre) National Nature Reserve in the valley.
Immersing ourselves in the damp and shady confines of an oakwood, and tantalised by a tapestry of ferns, mosses, liverworts and lichens, we consider the climatic conditions – wet and mild – that sustain these rare pockets of western wild-wood. Pushing deeper up-dale we discover two more woodland habitats: a remarkable hillside of ash pollards and a precipitous hanging hazelwood.
Pausing to admire 'Tumbling Kittens' and 'Blackberries in Custard', we reflect on the complex management needs of these threatened rainforests and learn why bracken is no barrier to natural regeneration, why brambles cannot be left unchecked, and why livestock exclosure does not make for healthy woods.
Backtracking to the valley bottom, we learn about the National Trust's largest ever 'translocation' drive and lament the loss of one of Lakeland's most loved trees; we mull the benefits of slow walking – and a £2.50 hand lens; and we celebrate Cumbria's reputation as a hotbed of conservationism.
...in which we journey deep into Newlands to tell the remarkable story of Elizabethen copper mining, and the part it played in making Keswick the birthplace of modernity.
Leaving Little Town in the company of the inimitable Mark Hatton, we ascend the flanks of Hindscarth, and rewind time to the 1560s, to when England's war footing meant a domestic supply of copper was a matter of national security.
Entering the hand-picked addit that drives through Scope End, we learn about the pioneering German miners who – in the year of Shakespeare's birth – brought their skills to a backwater Lake District valley; and we seek out one of the most audacious engineering feats of its age: a stream, diverted between valleys through the mountain to power an underground waterwheel.
Suitably wowed, we trace the copper ore's ancient route – above the marshy bottoms of Newlands into Keswick – to reflect on the social impacts of an immigrant population, and the ensuing violence... and baby boom.
Arriving by the all-but-ignored former smelter site at Brigham (below the A66 flyover), we discover old tunnels and leats that channeled water to the most important industrial site of its age.
As we digest a lost Lake District story, we consider the fate of the Germans who stayed, and the legacy of an industry that shaped national economics, politics, law... and plenty of future Keswickians.
…in which we climb one of the Lake District's most popular heights, Loughrigg Fell, to celebrate the launch of a new book, Loughrigg: Tales of a small mountain. In the company of author Eileen Jones and botanist Pete Martin, we consider why this rambling maze of a fell – the classic 'first and last hill’ – holds such a special place in so many people's hearts. Arriving at sequestered Lily Tarn, we survey the rich diversity of hillside flora, from bog asphodel and meadowsweet to grass-of-parnassus and bogbean. Weaving along the ever-popular spine path – past 'Kite Gnoll', 'The Sometimes Pond’ and 'The Knobbly-Bobblies' – we reflect on how memories are grafted onto hills, and how landscapes become personal: From the summit, with its repaired – if diminished – trig point (just the right height to perch a G&T) we discuss the changing relationship with ‘local’ that emerged during Covid, before backtracking past the former Ambleside Golf Course, where Eileen recalls ‘vapours’ on Striding Edge, picks Les Mis as a walking soundtrack… and details an unlikely case of happily-ever-after wife swapping at Pine Rigg.
…in which we head to the far northeast of Cumbria to explore the once thriving North Pennines coal industry in the company of ex-pitman Clive Seal. Rewinding to the 1240s, we unearth the first records of coal production in the area – supplying the monks of Lanercost - and discuss the border raids that threatened the cottage-style industry all the way into the 1600s. In the Midgeholme Bottoms – now the domain of curlew and oyster catcher – we evoke the expanded 17th century workings of horse gins, ’cinders’, waterwheels, smitihies and winding shafts. Taking a retrospective view of Clive’s career, and the ‘like it or loathe it’ reality of life on the coal face, we learn how pitmen bore straight tunnels and mined ‘black gold’ using lime and later gunpowder. Proceeding into the 19th century, we arrive at the jewel in the crown of the Brampton coalfield, the King Pit, where hundreds worked, swelling the villages of Midgeholme, Hallbankgate and Halton Lea Gate. Below abandoned workings, we come upon Lord Carlisle’s private railway – one of the first in the country – along which Stephenson’s Rocket reached a rumoured 60mph, and coal was transported via Port Carlisle to Glasgow and Nova Scotia. Finally, we learn about the slow-motion tragedy of moss encroachment that took three men’s lives, and heralded the end of an era.
...in which we stride out from Waterhead in the company of ecologist and Save Windermere campaigner Matt Staniek. In the vibrant watermeadows that flank the River Rothay we dig into local lad Matt's early life – where hedgehogs were nursed in the family home and Matt took nature walks with his grandmother. Fast-forwarding to the car crash that broke his neck, we learn about Matt's recuperative trips to Borrans Park, where the north shores of Windermere became a place of healing. Delving into the science of sewage, we consider the contributions that farming and private treatment plants make to nutrient levels in Windermere, dwarfed by the release – legal and illegal – of sewage by United Utilities. Subjecting Matt to our quickfire questions, we hear about his love of Side Pike and Windermere's Homeground; of the wonders of unpolluted becks; and of the Viking burial he imagines as a send-off, alongside the bronze toilet epitaph he wants erected outside UU's Windermere office. Detailing how sewage could be banished from Windermere for good, we ask Matt what he does on days off... and when his remarkable campaign will come to an end.
...in which, standing in for Mark and Dave, BBC Cumbria's Nick Brownlee takes a seat at the bar to discuss the highs, lows and daily realities of operating a community pub. In a hospitality sector beset by staff shortages, rising costs and closures, Cumbria is home to a handful of thriving pubs that have been acquired by their communities. Nick speaks with Phil Sweetland from the Mardale Inn, Bampton, and Grizedale Arts CEO Adam Sutherland from the Farmer's Arms, Lowick, about each pub's journey – from abandonment by big breweries, through community fundraising to reopening. They discuss the importance of pubs to rural communities; the value of activities that interact with the pub; the merits of organic growth as a community business finds its feet; and the "hard graft" management models that ensure sustainable growth. Finally, Adam and Phil namecheck their favourite Cumbrian hostelries – with shout outs to the Kirkstile Inn, The Queen's Head, The Blacksmith's Arms, The Butchers Arms and the ODG – and consider the question: what makes the perfect pub?
...in which, guest presenting for Mark and Dave, Radio 4's Caz Graham dons her boots for a day on the farm with organic dairy farmer, Chair of the Nature Friendly Farming Network and one of Cumbria's farming heroes, James Robinson. In a wide-ranging conversation with fifth-generation farmer 'James from Strickley' – in the shadow of The Helm – Caz and James delve deep into the world of regenerative farming, talk new life in a rewiggled Saint Sunday's Beck and discuss the beauty, utlity and nature benefits – 98 bird species! – of James' beloved laid hedges, as articulated by visting poet and beatboxer Testament. Looking back at old farm diaries, Caz is wowed by historic entries that juxtapose the whitewashig of cattle byres with a collapsing world order. Surveying a farmed landscape with views to Morecambe Bay, James reflects on the John Marsden adage that you should 'Live as though you’ll die tomorrow, but farm as though you’ll live forever', and – following an invite to discuss farming at Number 10 – calls for ministers to engage in joined-up thinking that aligns farming and food production with health, access to the countryside, education and social care.
...in which, standing in for Mark and Dave, broadcaster Nick Brownlee ventures out with Jon Bennett – a man who has climbed Helvellyn 778 times. Ascending Mires Beck, we hear from Jon about the important role of the National Park fell top assessor – a job Jon never thought he would get – and about why, even after 16 years climbing Helvellyn, he's still not bored of it. We learn about magic times on the fell – a Brockenspectre tracking Jon over Striding Edge – and about the role walking played after the sudden death of a close friend. As we continue our ascent, we discuss tree planting schemes and pitching to protect this most loved of mountains, and picnicking beside Red Tarn, we reflect upon the unique weather conditions that impact on Helvellyn. Finally, descending into Greenburn, we marvel at industry old and new, from the towering slag heaps of Greenside Mine to the new-generation hydro scheme supplying power to the National Grid.
...in which we explore the industrial and social history of Barrow-in-Furness in the company of former mayor John Murphy and artist Maddi Nicholson. Overlooking Walney Channel and distant Black Combe, we delve into the Furness peninsula's deep past, when monks arrived in the secluded 'valley of the deadly nightshade'. We proceed to the discovery of iron ore, and Barrow's subsequent overnight transformation, from backwater farming hamlet into 'the Chicago of England'. In a whistle-stop tour of the town, we discuss the leaning tower of its remarkable town hall, the daily toil of workers in 'the Shed', the 'boilermaker's whisper' and the 'hellfires' that blazed above molten slag. Entering the war years, we consider Barrow's role in re-arming the nation, the realities of the Barrow Blitz and the construction of Barnes Wallis’ ill-fated dirigible ‘Mayfly’ – that did not fly. Finally, on a tour of the fabulous space at Art Gene, we learn about the social history of the town – through shops, hairdressing, meat pies and a moose.– before celebrating the forgotten women of Barrow and Walney, including Peggy Braithwaite, Britain’s only woman lighthouse keeper and a mean shot with a rifle.
...in which we set out from springtime Orton to explore the limestone scars of the Westmorland Dales in the company of husband-and-wife geologist / botanist team Syvia and Peter Woodhead. Alongside bubbling Chapel Beck, we encounter early flowers and a lively March hare as we learn about the geological origins of limestone - in distant coral seas some 350 million years ago. Arriving on Orton Scar, with its big-sky panoramas, we reflect on the industrial processing of lime – for agriculture and construction – and observe the 'lasagne' layering of different eras of deposition. Passing limestone pavement on the shoulder of Knott – grikes forming micro-climates for an abundance of rare plants – we encounter myriad fossils, of corals, gastropods and sponges, that record cycles of life and mass extinction. Chased by a storm that never arrives, we finish our walking circuit at Gamelands Stone Circle, where we reflect on the power and legacy of ice.
...in which we take a Dales Way wander downstream from Cowan Head to Burneside to explore the long history of paper-making on the River Kent. In the company of paper manufacturer and fell-runner Mark Cropper, Chair of the six-generation family business James Cropper plc, we rewind the centuries to when 50 or more mills spanned the Kent, processing everything from wool to snuff. Entering the packhorse age, we learn about the growth of the provincial book trade and the growing demand for a new kind of 'clean' paper. Leaving the valley floor, we visit the cow byre-housed Paper Foundation to immerse ourselves in the centuries-old craft of paper making. Arriving at the heart of the family business in Burneside, we explore the cutting-edge mills that today make the paper not only for Armistice Day poppies and packaging for many of the world’s leading luxury brands, but also next-generation 'papers' destined for aircraft, supercars and wind turbines. Finally, looking across the pastures above Kendal, we reflect on Mark's ambition to rethink the landscapes of east Lakeland, and the emerging Penrith–Kendal wildlife corridor that will feature a heritage 'patchwork' of wood pasture, wildflower meadows and orchards, alongside traditional farming and food crops.
...in which we are joined by Kendal-based author and Windermere Lake Cruises skipper Robert Beale to dive into the deep history of boating on England largest lake. Rambling along the fine new path from Lakeside to Finsthwaite, we look back to Roman times and beyond to hypothesise about the first lake users. Moving into the medieval era, we consider the importance of Windermere to the monks of Furness Abbey, and the subsequent use of cargo boats to transport everything from slate and charcoal to limestone and gunpowder. Arriving in the tourist age, we reflect on the remarkable monopoly of the Furness Railway Company, with trains and boats ferrying huge numbers of people on lengthy Lakeland adventures. As we backtrack to historic fords and the River Leven 'dog hole', we learn about the role Windermere played during the two World Wars, before turning to matters more frivolous: the Tizzie-Whizie, the Crier of Claife and the possible genesis of Beatrix Potter's creative world.
...in which we celebrate the 400th anniversary of the birth of George Fox – founder of Quakerism – on a journey through '1652 country' with historian, Quaker and Professor Emeritus at Lancaster University, Angus Winchester. Starting our walk at the Society of Friends meeting house in the picture-perfect hamlet of Brigflatts just outside Sedbergh, we learn about the turbulent times into which Fox was born. Introducing the charismatic, troubled and talented Fox, we follow his famous footsteps of 1652, through Lancashire and Yorkshire to Sedbergh and then into Westmorland, where he preached to 1,000 people atop Firbank Fell in a meeting that would become pivotal in the spread of early Quakerism. With grand views of the Howgills, we continue the story into 1653 as Fox moved north and west to Ulverston and then into Cumberland ("now't good comes round Black Combe"). Closing our conversation, we consider the importance of the '1652' north country, the period of persecution following the fertile early years, and the Quaker legacy – of Friends meeting houses and businesses – in Cumbria today.
...in which we're defeated by weather, so shelter indoors to hear from one of the UK's great adventurers: Cockermouth-based James Forrest, who has bagged all 1,001 mountains in the UK and Ireland, and broke records walking both the 446 Nuttalls and 214 Wainwrights. An escape from the nine-to-five was, James tells us, the drive for his first challenge – to conquer every mountain in England and Wales in the shortest documented time. But his heart was always in Lakeland, which led to his 2020 self-supported round of the Wainwrights. In a reflective interview, we hear about the highs and lows of an epic walk; we ask whether 'adventure' can be a ruse to escape everyday life; we consider our changing relationship with the fells as we spend more time in them; and we learn why James is "never, ever, ever" returning to the Brecon Beacons.
...in which we rewind the centuries to the Neolithic Age on a journey in search of Lakeland's earliest settlers and their highly-valued stone axes. In the company of archaeologist Steve Dickinson, we set out from Brotherilkeld – the great medieval farmstead with Norse roots. Leaving the valley walls behind, we enter wild country, once a place of forest groves and wood pasture stalked by deer and lynx, wolves and bears. As we trace the river upstream, we imagine the 6000-year-old endeavours of our earliest ancestors, as they left their coastal settlements in search of a rare band of volcanic cutting stone. Arriving atop Scar Lathing – a maiden ascent for Mark and Dave – we seek out two extraordinary archaeological finds that paint a picture of a lost civilisation: of Cumbria's first extractive industry; of ritual burials; and of a deep communion with high places that was etched into immaculately crafted artefacts.
...in which we uwrap a selection box of our favourite clips from the year past in the company of Lakeland Walking Tales blogger and Lakeland Walker contributor, George Kitching. Featuring clips from, among others, Bill Birkett, Will Rawling, Charlotte Fairbairn, Rob and Harriet Fraser, Debbie North, Mark Hatton, Fell Foodie, Chris Butterfield and Melvyn Bragg, we sift through 19 episodes and 20 hours of recordings from as far flung as Ennerdale, Wigton, Coniston, Grasmere, Keswick and the big-sky North York Moors. In our annual extended fire-side chat, we ponder pubs, peat bogs, Potter and 'potatovators'; we visit Crosthwaite, Coniston Old Man and the Coast to Coast; we discuss Wainwright – a lot – and consider how the romance of his prose still draws folk to the fells; and finally, we close by asking 'What is the enduring magic of Lakeland?'
...in which we are joined by Farmer's Wife author Helen Rebanks and food historian Ivan Day for a feast of Cumbrian Christmas fare. In Ivan's historic Westmorland farm kitchen we learn about the dishes that marked a traditional Christmas – 'hackin', powdered goose and sweet pie – before Helen and Ivan serve up three very different gingerbreads. Discussing her debut book, Helen speaks about food on the family farm, about memories of marmalade and about why food matters. Ivan, meanwhile, tackles a few local food queries: was ginger really a Whitehaven import?; was the Cumberland sausage introduced by German miners?; and which of Cartmel or Sharrow Bay can claim to be the true home of sticky toffee pudding? Finally, as we tuck into an early seasonal dinner, we learn about a Lowther christmas pie with ingredients that included 15 sparrows, 46 yellow hammers, 12 patridges... and a curlew.
...in which we climb one of Grasmere's low-level favourites to dine in a dell with outdoors cook, author and mental health speaker Harrison Ward – a.k.a. Fell Foodie. Setting out along the old drove road from Allan Bank, Harrison speaks frankly about his former life: of his long history of clinical depression; his obesity; and his 12-year struggle with alcohol. Rising through juniper glades, he talks about the fell walk that was to change his life, and the long-time love of cooking that gave birth to a new passion and persona. As we settle beside a beck for a fine freshly-cooked stew, we consider the healing properties of the outdoors and the value of slow moments on the hill. Arriving atop a bitterly cold Silver How, a pun-laden chat ensues about cooking for Mary Berry, New Year fireworks over Grasmere and baking on Bakestall.* Find out more about Fell Foodie at https://www.fellfoodie.co.uk * His debut book, Cook Out, is available at all good bookstores (local is best!)
...in which we embark on one of our all-time favourite walks – up the Glendereterra valley – to ask why runners head into the toughest of fell landscapes on journeys of adventure, endurance, technical challenge and self-discovery. As we delve into the Back o' Skidda', we hear from Keswick born-and-bred Jacob Tonkin about the heritage of fell-running passed to him by his grandparents, and his support efforts on the Bob Graham Round. Returning below Lonscale Fell, we follow Chloe Thwaites' journey from near-paralysis on an A&E ward to a reconnected love with northern landscapes. Finally, we speak with Danielle Ledbury, author of new book Why we Run, about the 28 extraordinary runners she has photographed in the Lakeland fells; about trauma and recovery; about grief and joy; about vulnerability and community; and about that elusive flow...* Why we Run can be ordered from Dave's publishing house, Inspired by Lakeland.
...in which we return to post-war Cumbria in the company of author, broadcaster and parliamentarian, Melvyn Bragg, to reflect on his early years in the market town of Wigton. Evoking a close-knit community on the threshold of change, Melvyn describes daily life in the Black-a-Moor inn – the Bragg family home for a decade – and celebrates the rich diversity of small-town working class culture: of hound dog trailing; dances; and Youth Hostel trips to the Lakes. Following a breakdown aged 13, Melvyn explains the role education and reading played in his recovery, and the fork in the road that tore him from the community he loved. Finally, we learn why “Wigton men just fight for the love of fighting”, why walking is the best way of understanding a place, why Binsey is best, and why it’s time to rebuild Hadrian's Wall... around the whole of Cumbria…* You can buy Back in the Day from all good bookshops, including bookscumbria.com/product/cumbrian-books/arts-and-literature/fiction/melvyn-bragg/back-in-the-day-2/
...in which we head to misty Ennerdale in search of the Lake District's iconic sheep breed: the Herdwick. In the company of Will Rawling, Chairman of the Herdwick Sheep Breeders Association – whose family have farmed the far-western fells for 500 years – we take a whistle-stop tour through the breed's long history, from its likely Norse roots through the days of the great wool wealth of Abbeys to its integral place on the family farm. Pausing a moment to chat dialogue – 'herd-wyke', Grike and Sampson's Bratfull – Will describes the perfect Herdwick and offers a theory about its remarkable tone-changing fleece. Descending to Matty Benn's Bridge, we consider the three-way relationship between farm, common and sheep and ask what happens when it breaks down. Taking a wander down memory lane – recalling April evenings in lambing fields; grazed knees on cobbled yards; farm-talk in the pub – we ask what future there is for the breed, and for those who care for it, in a fast-changing world.* The Herdwick Sheep Breeders Association can be found at herdwick-sheep.com * Will is featured in Amy Bateman's Forty Farms, edited and published by Dave's Inspired by Lakeland imprint.
...in which we visit Crosthwaite to shine a light on one of Lakeland's most neglected historic figures – remarkable Eliza Lynn Linton, the first female salaried journalist in England. In the company of author Philippa Harrison, Keswick Museum curator Nicola Lawson and academic Sue Wilkinson, we learn about Eliza's traumatic childhood and the self-education that allowed her to escape the family home and embark on a writing career among the literary elite of her day. Reflecting on the passionate attachments Eliza formed with both men and women, we turn to Eliza's beautiful The Lake Country, a 'love book' to Cumbria that inspired Alfred Wainwright, and which Rawnsley thought would never be bettered. As we make our way to the overgrown Lynn family grave, we consider the contradictions of a contrary life; of Eliza's complex views on sexuality; of the great U-turn that saw her abandon her one-time progressive feminist ideals; and of the curious fact that this once infamous writer – and her superlative guidebook – are now barely acknowledged, even in the margins of Cumbrian history.* Philippa's book, A Mountain Republic: Crosthwaite Parish and the Eighteen Men, can be found at all local bookshops. * Sue can be found on Twitter at https://twitter.com/sue_wilkinson * For more on Keswick Museum see https://keswickmuseum.org.uk
...in which we take a timeless tour of Aira Force – one of Lakeland's enduring honeypots – to uncover a history that takes in Victorian tourists, Colonial tree collectors and Baronial money and power. Treading paths trod for generations, we set out from the Pinetum glade in the company of National Trust Cultural Heritage Curator Harvey Wilkinson and consider Aira Force's early days, when oaks dominated the gorge and deer swept the fells. Entering woodland, we discuss the one-time estate's transition to pleasure ground in the age of the nouveau riche Merchant Princes of northern England. With diversions to talk Potter, politics and poetry, we reach the mighty Force itself, where we consider the sublime power that still draws crowds in their hundred-thousand, and the management challenges that face the Trust in an era of heavy footfall and increasingly extreme weather. * For more details on Aira Force and Gowbarrow Park, see ationaltrust.org.uk/visit/lake-district/aira-force-and-gowbarrow-park
...in which we journey back 200 years to the early days of Lake District tourism in the company of Jeff Cowton MBE, principal curator at Wordsworth Grasmere. Tracing the footsteps of the first well-to-do visitors, we ascend the pastures of Latrigg, midway between the perennial honeypot of Keswick and long-climbed slopes of Skiddaw. As we walk, we consider tourism's roots in the continental Grand Tour, and the events that shifted 'strangers'' eyes to the-once 'frightful' backwaters of Cumbria. Influenced by concepts like 'the sublime' and 'the picturesque', we note key figures in the development of both tourism and the aesthetic appreciation of landscape, from Jean-Jacques Rousseau to Father Thomas West. Arriving at one of Lakeland's great viewpoints, we reflect on the characters that embraced the early tourist boom, including polymath eccentric Peter Crosthwaite and co-founder of Derwent Water's remarkable regatta, Joseph Pocklington, before advancing in time to the arrival of Wordsworth, Coleridge... and the railways. * For more about the early days of tourism in the Lake District, the ‘To the Lakes!’ exhibition at Wordsworth Grasmere runs for the remainder of 2023 and through much of 2024. * Wordsworth Grasmere is also hosting two events that celebrate the journeys of early tourists, specifically: Ann Radcliffe's Ascent of Skiddaw, 1794 – Thursday 28 September 2023 and Historical Meal and Walk – Saturday 9 September 2023 that recreates the experience of a 1792 tourist with a historical meal and guided walk up Helm Crag. * For more information see: wordsworth.org.uk/blog/events/to-the-lakes-historical-meal-and-walk/
...in which we stride out from Fell Foot Farm at the foot of Wrynose Pass to explore the upper reaches of Little Langdale with National Trust Archaeologist Jamie Lund. Opening with a brief history of the valley, we consider its strategic importance in the heart of the Lakes, and the historic route – used by the Romans onwards – that draws down to Fell Foot, a one-time inn. Noting the remarkable Norse 'Ting Mound' behind the farm, we learn about the enclosed dale-bottom common, so valuable that it was never built upon. Passing the beck – canalised in medieval times then re-channelled in the 1800s – we ascend Greenburn to one of the UK's best preserved relic copper mines, where we talk prospecting, pollution and power. Hearing about the 'Nick Stick Seat' – where rural workers sat for a day's labour – we close by reflecting on the future of a remarkable valley.
...in which we take a deep dive into the miniature world of lichens with Cumbria Lichens & Bryophytes expert Pete Martin. Embarking from the car park at Seatoller – and not wandering much further - we ask what a lichen is (a question not easily answered) and why lichens matter. Wandering up-dale towards Seathwaite, we stop at trees and walls to encounter five of the county's most recognisable lichens and observe a remarkable world of elf ears, maps, jam tarts and wine gums. Deep in the Borrowdale rainforest we consider the expansive 'second skin' lichen and bryophyte ecosystems that form on older pollarded trees, and the key role lichens play in fixing both carbon and nitrogen. Taking a long view of land use in the valley, our journey ends at the famous Borrowdale Yews, where we learn why Wordsworth's 'Fraternal Four' were never four at all, and why, in ecology, things are often more complex than they first seem.
...in which we are joined by industrial archeologist supremo Mark Hatton to talk all things slate as we ascend and then tunnel deep into the fellside of The Old Man of Coniston. Picking through the abandoned remains of old working floors and tips, we learn about the long history of slate quarrying in the Lake District – an industry spread over 200 sites that yielded a range of highly-prized stone. Discussing how slate is formed, we make our way to the powerhouse, smithy and working floor of the Old Man workings, where millions of tonnes of stone were shaped into prized roofing slate by generations of miners. As we wander, we hear about the likely Norman origins of the industry; the revolution wrought by compressed air; the perils of journeying home in the snow; and the Sunday-morning miracles that collapsed caverns – and saved lives.
It would be remiss not to note that we recorded underground in the company of an experienced guide, and kitted with helmets and torches. Exploring these workings is immensely enjoyable - in the right company and with the right kit. In all cases, leave the workings as you found them. ***
..in which we don the Countrystride shorts for a balmy trip west into sylvan Eskdale to hear about Ian and Jen Hall's 27-year journey to make a success of a Lakeland hill farm. As we set out from the handsome farmhouse at Fisherground – one-time home to the couple, alongside close friends Anne-Marie and Geoff Wake – we learn about the passion that drove both couples (plus family and other animals) onto the farm, and the highs and lows of living the farming dream. Reflecting as we walk on divers matters – from gate stoups to Herdwick rudd; from bathing in the Esk to the thrill of hound trailing – we reach St Catherine's Church, where Ian preached for many years, to reflect on the trauma of Foot & Mouth, making peace with tourism and the brilliantly named, but mechanically flawed, 'Hayter Potatovator'.
...in which we take a tour of honeypot Ambleside in the company of Blue Badge guide, and lover of all things Ambleside, Alison Pickering. Setting out from Rothay Park, we visit the riverside Roman Fort, once a thriving settlement with strategic links throughout Cumbria, before making our way via the centuries-spanning milling powerhouse of Stock Ghyll into the centre of town to talk about its industrial transition from wool town to tourist mecca. As we wander, under pristine spring skies, we learn about the Roman gifts of damsons and apples; the battle to save Stock Ghyll Park; and the real purpose of diminutive Bridge House, before asking why the town's chapel was only in use for 43 years; and what a Victorian tourist would pack into their busy Lakeland tour.* Alison Pickering can be found at cumbriatouristguides.org/guide/alison-pickering/ * She can also be found on Instagram at instagram.com/amblesidealison/
...in which we travel east to the big-sky North York Moors to meet access campaigner and Cabinet Office disability ambassador Debbie North on a stretch of her beloved Coast to Coast walk. Setting out in springtime squalls from The Lion Inn at Blakey – infamous stopping point on Wainwright's enduringly popular cross-country journey – we learn from Debs about the outdoors childhood that forged her connection with wild places, before following her life-changing journey from St Bees to Robin Hood's Bay during which she fell in love not only with the north country, but also with travel companion (and colleague) Andy North. Recalling the loss of her mobility and the dark days that followed, Debs describes the first ever Coast to Coast crossing made in a wheelchair; recollects her doomed attempts to reconnect with nature using didgeridoos; and tells us why she isn't calling for Stannah Stairlifts to be installed on Scafell Pike. * You can find out more about Debs at debbienorth.org and on Twitter at twitter.com/DebbieNorth29 * You can find out more about Access the Dales, Debs' charity. here.
...in which we visit one of Lakeland's great historic houses, Lowther Castle, to explore the history of the 'Yellow Earl': Hugh Lowther, 5th Earl of Lonsdale, one of the most extravagant members of the English aristocracy. In the company of Charlotte Fairburn, seanchaidh of the Lowther family, we rewind in time to the early days of the Lowther dynasty – to the growth of the Whitehaven coalfields and the tyrannies of 'Wicked Jimmy' – to set the scene for Hugh's birth. Never intended to inherit the estate – 75,000 acres and wealth beyond dreams – the young Earl embarked upon a life of opulence and hedonism, spending vast sums and pretty much squandering the family fortune. As we trace the story of a remarkable life – of the Earl's love of animals; of his extra-marital activities; of his temporary banishment to the Arctic; of his hunts with the Kaiser – we ask what kind of man he was; why his grave is so modest; and... why yellow? Finally we consider the Earl's legacy – that stretches from boxing rules to Arsenal FC's away strip and the AA's livery.* The Ten Thousand Daffodils installation is running at Lowther Castle until 24 June. * To visit Lowther Castle and its exhibits see lowthercastle.org * You can find Charlotte at her website here.
...in which we celebrate our 100th birthday with an ascent of Grasmere's favourite fell, Helm Crag, to consider the question: "What is the unique magic of the Lake District?" In the company of Little Langdale cragsman and author Bill Birkett, poet Harriet Fraser, photographer Rob Fraser and – sharing our birthday – 90-year-old Gordon Bambrough, we enjoy blue skies as we climb steadily to The Lion and the Lamb's rocky top. As we walk, we explore our own relationships with Cumbria, how each of us fell in love with north-country landscapes, and what the fells mean to us. As we rove, we are joined by dozens of Lakes-lovers who answer the same enduring question: "What is the magic of Lakeland for you?" before picking a piece of poetry or prose that articulates the magic for them.* Our readers for the episode – with many thanks – are the brilliant Sue Allan and Jonathan Humble. * Emily Hasler's poem 'Grasmere Lake' is taken from The Built Environment and is published by Pavilion Poetry at Liverpool University Press. * With thanks to all of our many contributors to this episode: you're all stars :-)
...in which we explore the much-loved hanging valley of Watendlath and the High Tove ridge above in the company of veteran National Trust ranger Roy Henderson and Cumbria Wildlife Trust's Sean Prokopiw. Posing the question: 'How do we balance the management of such precious landscapes with increasing tourist demands?', we take a whistle-stop tour of projects that are building resilience into the fells, woodlands and communities around the isolated dale head. After a brief history of the valley – from glaciation through Norse settlement to the busy days of the pack-horse trains – we visit a remarkable pollarded ash tree. Heading downstream, we are introduced to one of three hydro schemes in Borrowdale, which collectively generate enough energy to power virtually the whole valley. Passing newly-planted hillsides on an age-old pitched way, we emerge at the Pewits, once a desolation of peat hags, now a thriving upland bog, to learn about the value of these remarkable upland habitats.
...in which we take a wintry trip to Lowther country and the pristine village of Askham to celebrate the built heritage of Cumbria. In the company of historic buildings officer Alexandra Fairclough, we take a long view of the vernacular and its champions – from John Ruskin to Professor Ron Brunskill – before embarking on a whistlestop tour of a village that was neither formally designed, like Lowther, nor set upon a springline, like nearby Helton. As we wander, we consider the link between geology and buildings, we note the features of a typical Cumbrian farmhouse, we consider the concept of 'polite' architecture, and we ask whether Cumbrian's historic buildings are in safe hands. * Alexandra can be found at https://linktr.ee/Alexatourguide
...in which we descend upon the cloistered valley of Troutbeck to celebrate the 75th birthday of the National Trust farm at Townend, home for 12 generations to the 'yeoman' Browne family. In the company of Collections & House Manager Emma Wright we uncover a trove of farmhouse treasures, including an expansive 'meat loft', the last George Browne's remarkable wood carvings and Elizabeth Birkett's 1699 'commonplace book' of recipes and unlikely ailment cures. Accessing the house's nationally-important library, we paint a picture of a leisured family in pursuit of wealth and influence, and Mark gets enthused by a copy of 'Gate's Shepherds Guide'. Rambling past the farm's expansive bank barn – one of the finest in Westmorland – we learn about the characteristic pattern of 'outgang' lanes that allowed stock to be driven onto the communal Wansfell 'hundreds' before turning our attention to Beatrix Potter and the last days of the Browne dynasty. * You can find out more about Townend at www.nationaltrust.org.uk/visit/lake-district/townend
....in which we head west to Wasdale to talk with one of Cumbria's living greats; broadcaster, author, film-maker and former sheep farmer Eric Robson OBE. Sat by the stove in his isolated farmhouse study, we learn about Eric's long love affair with Wasdale, and the decision to donate his OBE to his beloved adopted Cumbria; we take the long view of a broadcasting career that has included Gardeners' Question Time, Remembrance Sundays and the funeral of Diana, Princess of Wales; we talk about Eric's life as a fell farmer, and his passion for rare breeds; and we re-live the many frustrating, rewarding – and amusing – weeks spent in the company of Alfred Wainwright during the making of the TV films that made the great fellwanderer a reluctant star.
...in which we make the classic ascent of Catbells to celebrate the remarkable life of Sir Hugh Walpole, at one time one of the world's best-selling authors, now a figure largely forgotten outside of literary circles. In the company of Walpole enthusiast Simon Dunant, we learn about the author's traumatic start in life – of family upheaval and boarding school abuse – that would shape the mind of a lonely young man increasingly passionate about classic literature. We consider Walpole's remarkable rise to fame and his establishment among the partying London literati – even as he sought to hide a forbidden sexuality. Following more trauma – this time on the Eastern Front – we discuss Walpole's deepening love affair with the Lake District; of his great Lakeland-set Herries Chronicle; of discovering peace at Brackenburn, his 'little paradise on Catbells'; and of finding, at last, a 'perfect friend' in chauffeur Harold Cheevers.* Simon runs 'The Walpole Chronicles' at https://hughwalpole.com * You can also find him on Twitter at https://twitter.com/hughwalpoleblog
...in which we are joined by outdoors writer and editor John Manning for our annual delve into Countrystrides past, picking our best bits from 2022 as we chat about everything from dialect to dynamite; walls to wolves; and farming to fellrunning; before naming our favourite walks of the year. As we hear from, among others, Lee Schofield, Mark Hatton, Libby Robinson, Alison Park, Steve Birkinshaw, Jean Scott-Smith, Steve Dickinson and Donald Angus, we ponder the magic of long distance walking, reflect on the number of people who find solace in the north country, and celebrate the scruffy art of dressing down on the hill before Mark and John test their knowledge of the fells in our eagerly-anticipated new quiz, 'Wainwright or Wainwrong'. Wishing all of our listeners, subscribers and Patreon supporters a very Happy New Year. We look forward to joining you again in January :-) Mark & Dave
...in which we take a Grasmere ramble under wintry skies with local lass Joanne Hunter, Partner at Grasmere Gingerbread, for a seasonal trip down memory lane. Embarking from diminutive Church Cottage – the one-time school house – we learn about the life, heartbreaks and invention of Sarah Nelson, the working class Victorian cook who landed upon a new recipe for the moreish confection in 1854. Arriving at St Oswald's church, we revel in recollections of rushbearings past – views of the fells; the smell of flowers. As Mark gets his teeth into biscuity-cakey-yumminess, we delve into the culinary history of Cumbria and its links with Whitehaven, once Britain's second port. Finally, we talk Christmas, and snow under the streetlights, towers of variety boxes, the village Father Christmas... and Nanny Hunter's whist drive.* You can find Grasmere Gingerbread at grasmeregingerbread.co.uk
...in which stride out from Chapel-le-Dale in the Yorkshire Dales to nine-miles-distant Dent on the Dales High Way long distance footpath in the company of the trail's co-creator – and local lass – Chris Grogan. Leaving the diminutive 'chapel in t' dale' with its memorial to navvies killed building the Carlisle–Settle line, we rise into farm country and learn about Chris's childhood as a farm girl in Upper Dentdale. Encountering a group of firemen undertaking the Three Peaks Challenge, we talk place names, and the meanings of Ingleborough, Pen-y-Ghent and Boot of the Wold. On the age-old Craven Way that runs across the shoulder of Whernside we discuss the joys of long-distance walking - 'mindfulness before the term was invented'. Finally, we take a trip down memory lane as Chris recalls haymaking in the era of the fell pony, the Whernside gather... and truant officers being outfoxed by local mums.* You can find out more about the Dales High Way at https://www.daleshighway.co.uk * You can find Chris and Tony on Facebook at https://www.facebook.com/daleshighway/
...in which we brave dark skies for a windy wander over Sale Fell to unearth the history of rock and glaciation in the Lake District. Setting out from cloistered Wythop vale with author, geologist and local lad Ian Francis, we learn about the three rock groups that form the backbone of Lakeland, as identified by Keswick geology pioneer Jonathan Otley. Passing some of the oldest rocks in England – Skiddaw Slate – we look north to Galloway across a former continental divide. As we descend, we consider the fraught debates around glaciation that challenged generations of Great Flood-believing geologists; we discover a hillside stretch of Napoleonic 'rigg and furrow' where crops were planted in the toughest of landscapes; and we hear from Ian about why the best view in Lakeland is from lowly Low Fell.
...in which we are joined by archaeologist Steve Dickinson in Gosforth to seek out the lost Norse kingdom of 'Laithlinn'. Embarking from the infamous Viking Cross – where Steve guides us through a series of remarkable carvings – we set out on an autumnal wander over the meadows to Irton, and a second iconic cross. As we walk – down quiet bylines, and over a busy Irt and Bleng – we consider signs in the landscape; in names, in landforms, beneath our feet; that paint a dazzling picture of 1,000 years ago, and a thriving, if violent, kingdom based around a people who arrived from across the Irish sea, beached their boats and then settled their Herdwicks and slaves around a huge longhall overlooked by their Gods on Scafell and Great Gable.
...in which we escape the autumn rains on Clough Head to meet fell-runner and Threlkeldonian Steve Birkinshaw, who in 2014 broke the record for the fastest run of all 214 'Wainwrights' – the ultimate British ultramarathon. His 6 day, 13 hour record – which smashed Joss Naylor's epic 1987 run by a staggering 12 hours – not only laid down new lines that enabled a new generation of records to tumble, but also had a profound effect on softly-spoken Steve, who has spoken candidly about the physical and emotional toll the run took. In a wide-ranging discussion, we learn about the tough schooldays that gifted Steve a love for the outdoors, we take a bird's eye view of his many career highlights – from the Bob Graham Round to the Lakeland 100; and we talk though the remarkable 320-mile, 36,000m ascent odyssey across the fells that ended with the eyes of the world following a near-broken runner onto the steps of Keswick Moot Hall.
...in which we visit one of Cumbria's most visited farms, Low Sizergh Farm, in the company of owners Richard and Alison Park, and photographer Amy Bateman. On a farm tour taking in fruit-laden hedgerows, diverse meadows and Richard's organic dairy herd, we celebrate the launch of Amy's 'Forty Farms' book and consider the state of Cumbrian farming in a time of profound change. Taking the long view of divers challenges and opportunities, we learn how Lakeland farmers are making space for nature; we ponder the link between food and community; and we ask what advice our farmers would give to the new secretary of state for environment, food and rural affairs.
...in which we visit one of Cumbria's most visited farms, Low Sizergh Farm, in the company of owners Richard and Alison Park, and photographer Amy Bateman. On a farm tour taking in fruit-laden hedgerows, diverse meadows and Richard's organic dairy herd, we celebrate the launch of Amy's 'Forty Farms' book and consider the state of Cumbrian farming in a time of profound change. Taking the long view of divers challenges and opportunities, we learn how Lakeland farmers are making space for nature; we ponder the link between food and community; and we ask what advice our farmers would give to the new secretary of state for environment, food and rural affairs.
...in which we journey into Romantic-era 19th century Lakeland to explore the roots of change in our relationship with trees. In the company of Dr Anna Burton, Lecturer in English Literature at the University of Derby, we embark on a heatwave-hued ramble through Lorton Vale to hillside-hugging Holme Wood above sparkling Loweswater. As we walk, we learn about the historic shift that gave woodland an aesthetic value; we discuss the great northern forests that Wordsworth lamented as lost to human hand; we hear about Wordsworth's love of – and talent for – tree planting, and the role he played in planning Holme Wood; and we consider how the tension between economics and amenity is still being played out in the wooded landscapes of Cumbria today.
...in which we take a warm-weather wander from Far to Near Sawrey in the footsteps of author, illustrator, farmer and countrywoman Beatrix Potter. In the company of long-time Hilltop volunteer and Beatrix Potter Society member Janet Edwards, we trace Wilfin Beck to Moss Eccles Tarn – one of Mrs Heelis' favourite spots – and then on into Near Sawrey, her Hilltop and Castle Cottage home for 40 years. Taking the long view of a remarkable life, we discuss the childhood holidays that gifted shy, talented and independent-minded young Beatrix a lifelong love of Lakeland; we learn about the genesis of her seven-times rejected 'little books for little hands'; we hear about her tragic first love – and the 'spring' that 'came to her late in life' that unfolded with Hawkshead solicitor William Heelis; before considering her extraordinary legacy, not only to children's literature and hill farming, but also the National Trust.
...in which we journey into the mining past of iconic Coppermines Valley above Coniston with industrial historian Mark Hatton. Rewinding time to the 16th century, we seek out the earliest signs of copper extraction on the lonely slopes below Hole Rake, before climbing to the wheelpits and addits of The Company of Mines Royal - monuments to the German miners who abandoned Keswick when their Newlands seams were exhausted. As we climb ever-higher into Red Dell, we learn about the audacious scale of 18th century infrastructure - the breathtaking leats, the mighty waterwheels and the miles of tunnels; we consider the dangers of the shaft-potted landscape and its unforgiving technology; we picture the hard lives of the men, women and children who once worked these remarkable slopes... and we ask, 'Did the IRA really try to assassinate John Major using a bomb below Levers Water?".
...in which we make the perennially popular ascent of Latrigg in the company Douglas Chalmers, outgoing chief executive of Friends of the Lake District. Setting out from Fitz Park, Keswick, where the landscape charity was founded at a public rally in 1934, we learn about the farming upbringing that led Douglas, a Lake District agnostic, to fall in love with the county after wintertime drives up Tebay gorge. Following a deep dive into the history of the conservation movement, we learn about the early Thirlmere skirmishes that pre-empted the formation of a formidable campaigning charity. Ascending Latrigg's grassy flanks, we take a whistlestop tour of Friends' history: of the campaigns that established the National Park, that fought against monoculture afforestation, that undergrounded miles of electric cables, and which, latterly, rallied against zip wires over Thirlmere and houseboats on Grasmere. Arriving at Latrigg's iconic bench – one of the north Lakes' great viewpoints – we talk magic Lakeland moments, we consider upland farming's perilous future and we learn why Cumbrian folk make the best of neighbours.
...in which we stride out from the North Pennine market town of Alston on an amiable wander along the Isaac's Tea Trail footpath. In the company of Tea Trail creator Roger Morris and 'tea lady' blogger Anne Leuchars, we unearth the remarkable rags-to-riches tale of 18th-century tea-seller Isaac Holden, who escaped a childhood of lead mining poverty to become an entrepreneur, fundraiser and pillar of Allendale life. As we dodge blustery showers, we soak in the sights and sounds of a far-from-the-madding-crowd valley, reflect on the early days of the British love affair with tea; visit the remarkable Roman fort at Epiacum; consider the state of our footpaths... and meet a couple walking from John o'Groats to Land's End.
...in which we wander the wildlife-friendly meadows of Strickley farm, Old Hutton, with geologist and waller Arthur Robinson to learn about the history, heritage and practice of dry-stone walling. After a brief overview of the landscape's geology – which gifts Kendal walls a unique array of stones – we look back over the long history of walling and hedging in Cumbria, from the creation of early fields to the frenetic Victorian era of Enclosure. We explore the techniques that ensure a wall stands for centuries and consider different walling patterns around the county and country. We learn the economic importance of the not-so-humble hedgerow and ask why farmers might opt for hedging over walls. Finally, we quiz Arthur on the early-morning satisfaction he gets from placing 'one over two, and two over one'...
...in which we trace the rise and fall of local dialect in the company of long-time friends and Cumbriana champions Jean Scott-Smith and Donald Angus. On a journey that begins with the earliest Celtic settlers, we learn how Angle and Norse immigrants left their mark in the language of landcape; we mull the meanings of Blencathra, Wetherlam, Coniston and Catstycam; we hear how Donald perplexed walkers by posting a National Park weather forecast in dialect; and – after a nostalgic diversion to consider unlikely Cumbrian remedies and the 'mobile bomb' dangers of petrol irons – we bow out with two note-perfect renditions of dialect poems.
...in which we set out from the secluded valley of Miterdale for a wet-weather ascent of Whin Rigg and Illgill Head. As we walk, with author and Lakeland Walker columnist George Kitching, we explore the concept of the 'sublime' – the awe-rooted spiritual response to mountain scenery first identified in 18th century philosophy. Tracing the sublime through early Lakeland guidebooks, we enter the Romantic era to arrive at Scafell Crag and the writings of Alfred Wainwright. With a backdrop of ever-shifting cloudscapes atop Wastwater's tumbling screes, we consider the Beckside Boggle, the historic 'earth spirit' stronghold of remote Wasdale, and the tragic tale of French student Veronique Marre.
...in which we descend upon Coniston Water to talk all things Ransome with lifelong Swallows and Amazons devotees Paul Flint and Geraint Lewis. Embarking from Bank Ground – a familiar location to the young Arthur – we journey past springtime Brantwood before crossing to Coniston on Gondola, one of the inspirations for Captain Flint's houseboat. As we travel, we learn about formative Nibthwaite holidays in which Ransome fell in love with Lakeland; we talk about the Great Freeze of 1895, which an unhappy schoolboy was to return to with nostalgia in Winter Holiday; we discuss Russian adventures and the lure of Bohemia; and we discover why lifelong wanderer Ransome – who suffered ill health for much of his adult life – never quite found home. We close, besides Titty's grave, with a favourite Ransome excerpt from each of our guests.
...in which we take a springtime stroll from Langwathby to Lazonby in the company of author Stan Abbot to track the route of the Carlisle-Settle line, one of Britain's most treasured railways. As we stroll, through sandstone villages immersed in birdsong, into age-old alder carr and over busy becks, we learn about the navvy construction of this most iconic of lines, and of the Blea Moor shantytowns in which drunkenness and disease ran rife; we relish the pastural loveliness of backwater Eden; we consider a perfect Lakeland day in Newlands; we discuss the six-year campaign that saved the railway – alongside Michael Portillo's ambiguous role in it; and, arriving at Long Meg and her Daughters, one of the UK's oldest stone circles, a poetic Mark ponders 'the enormity of time and our quiet little place in it'.
...in which we depart busy Tebay to climb atop biting cold Rondthwaite Common on a trip to meet some of Cumbria's oldest residents: the Globetrotter fell ponies – roamers of the uplands since time immemorial. As we trail above the 'other Borrowdale' with long-time fell pony champion Libby Robinson, we hear about the moment in Kentmere, aged eight, when Libby first fell for the semi-wild breed; we reminisce about a Lakeland childhood – otters under the bridge, minnows from the tap; we look back at the remarkable industrial history of the pony, and the part it played in the north's historic economy; finally, we consider what role the pony might play in 21st-century Lakeland.
...in which we explore the lonely eastern valley of Haweswater, where one of the Lake District's largest landscape-scale restoration projects is being managed by author and ecologist Lee Schofield. Celebrating the publication of Lee's new book Wild Fell, we set out from sunshine-bathed Naddle Farm to visit a range of projects – from tree nurseries to reborn tarns – that showcase the RSPB and United Utilities' vision of marrying light-touch farming with ecological recovery. As we wander, we recall the declining years of England's last golden eagle, we seek the ghosts of beasts that once roamed the fells, we consider why fighting for change in a heritage landscape can be a lonely – sometimes bruising – business, and we learn why Lee sees hope taking root across the Lakes.
...in which we celebrate the 60th anniversary of a decisive House of Lords speech that saved Ullswater from being turned into a reservoir. Setting out from Pooley Bridge with valley born-and-bred Miles MacInnes, we learn about the arrogance of Manchester Corporation, who after wins at Thirlmere and Haweswater, considered Lakeland water its own; we learn about the grass-roots campaign that fought back, and which garnered support from around the world; and we consider the leading voice of that campaign – Norman Lord Birkett QC – Ulverstonian and alternate British judge during the Nuremberg Trials, whose barnstorming speech to the Lords saw Manchester's water bill defeated by 70 votes to 36. As we wander, we talk with Miles about a Lakeland childhood, about Pooley Bridge's fishy past, and consider why Ullswater might be the best lake of all.
...in which we walk the popular Railway Trail between Threlkeld and Keswick to explore the history of rail in the historic counties of Cumberland and Westmorland. In the company of Peter Rooke, curator of the West Cumberland Railway Museum, we embark on our journey in the pioneering age of steam, when Carlisle offered a west coast port for the metalworks of Newcastle. As lines spread – around the west coast and reluctantly over Shap – we learn about the Lowther decree that split Whitehaven in two and the overseas fate of Europe's then-longest viaduct across the Solway. Entering the tourist age, we consider why golf-loving Scots were the making of Silloth and why La'al Ratty once had ambitions on Ambleside, before arriving in rail's sunset years, when consolidations and Beeching laid waste to many still-lamented rural lines.
...in which we follow in the footsteps of one of Lakeland's great characters – and neglected icons – Millican Dalton, the self-styled Professor of Adventure. In the company of researcher and 'M.D.' authority Matthew Entwistle, we wend our way from Rosthwaite into Wainwright's 'loveliest square mile' to consider the early life of the Dalton family, who swapped the big skies of Nenthead for smog in London. Summitting Castle Crag, we trace Millican Dalton north as he quits the nine-to-five and embarks on a lifetime of adventure in the Lake District, where – among other firsts – he pioneers adventure holidays, mixed-sex camping parties, lightweight clothing... and possibly the humble pair of shorts. Seeking out the Borrowdale cave that was his summer home for over 50 years, we learn about fires on Napes Needle, letters to Churchill, the lost chasms of Dove's Nest and finding solace in nature, before pondering two unsolved mysteries: what happened to the book left at Dalton's hospital bedside?; and where is his grave?
...in which we are joined by Lakeland Walker editor John Manning for our annual delve into Countrystrides past, picking our best bits from 2021 as we chat about everything from wad to Wainwright; plums to proms; lost histories to laudanum; flower meadows to farming; before naming our favourite walks of the year. As we hear from, among others, Joss Naylor, Kathleen Jones, Richard Leafe, Danny Teasdale, Helen Guy, Mark Hatton and John Dunning, we ponder the unspoken rules of conversation on the fells, consider whether transport charging could alleviate congestion in the National Park, and celebrate egrets in Matterdale. Wishing all of our listeners, subscribers and Patreon supporters a very Happy New Year. We look forward to joining you again in January :-)
...in which we take a seasonal Grasmere wander in the company of historian, journalist and collector of Cumbrian cultural traditions, Alan Cleaver. Striking up moss-cloistered Huntingstile ('stile' means steep), we discuss the seasonal ballad 'Down t' Lonnin', recited each year by the Grasmere Players – and read to us by Elaine Nelson of Sam Read bookshop. Failing to persuade Alan to sing Arthur Somervell's 'Grasmere Carol', we arrive above Red Bank to reflect on seasonal misrule and authority attempts to ban all manner of Cumbrian fun – from snowball fights in 1840s Workington, to bringing pistols to school in 1700s Carlisle. Descending down icy Easedale, we learn about the Christmas tragedy of the Green family, and consider how the children – fending for themselves as their parents perished – became a model of Victorian fortitude. In fading light, we arrive at Allan Bank, where local lad Paul Nelson reads Hardwicke Rawnsley's evocative description of the Keswick 'old folks Christmas do'.
…in which we descend from the Outlying Fells summit of Faulds Brow into the Back o’Skiddaw village of Caldbeck with local historian Tony Vaux to take a long view of a community through time. From the Brow – with a remarkable view into Galloway – we reach farmed country, where fortified barns tell of riever raids and the hue-and-cry that once mustered resistance. Entering the village, we unearth the clay-dubbin heritage of the duck pond and learn why human urine was once in high demand. Ambling upstream, we come upon the bobbin mill – a remarkable remnant of industrial Caldbeck, when dozens of pubs and mills served hundreds of workers. Discovering why tungtsen from the Caldbeck fells – initally plundered for armour plating by German miners – helped turn the tide of World War I, we close with reflections on the village’s most famous son, and learn why John Peel’s coat was never meant to be ‘gay’, but Herdwick ‘Hodden’ grey.
...in which we summit one of Lakeland's finest heights via the rocky arête of Halls Fell Ridge with Threlkeld born-and-bred Andy Airey. After grappling with local pronunciations, we hear about the outdoor freedoms of a Lakeland childhood; we learn that Father Christmas lives on Great Mell Fell; and we explore the merits of each route onto Saddleback. Approaching the summit on a picture-perfect autumn evening, conversation turns to Andy's daughter Sophie, who took her life in December 2018. In a frank discussion about suicide, about the need to talk with young people and about healing though walking, we move on to consider the '3 Dads Walking' campaign, in which Andy and two other suicide-bereaved fathers walked 324 miles in memory of their daughters – and captured the attention of millions around the world.
...in which we celebrate the 70th birthday of the Lake District National Park by climbing Orrest Head with Park Authority chief executive Richard Leafe. Exploring a new, accessible route to the summit – a re-discovered track used by Victorian charabancs – we consider the challenge of finding a policy sweet-spot that takes into account conservation, farming, community and business; we discover what drives Richard after 14 years in the job; we talk about ski-ing the front face of Helvellyn; and we pose a series of questions from listeners, including 'Should we charge cars to enter the Park?', 'Have we reached peak tourism?', 'Should 4x4s be on green lanes?' and 'Would the Park have granted planning permission for house boats on Grasmere?'
...in which we stride out from the dunes of Drigg, destination Ravenglass, to celebrate the opening of the first Cumbrian stretch of the English Coast Path. In the company of Ange Harker – Lead Adviser on Natural England’s North West Coastal Access team – we discuss the grand vision of the 2,795-mile long-distance path, latest to join the country's family of national trails, and hear about her favourite stretches, including isolated Cumbrian beaches that have never before enjoyed public access. Then, joining Peter Frost-Pennington on the approach to Ravenglass, we learn about the village's history as a thriving Roman port then busy medieval thoroughfare before encountering remnants of the Esk's once-bounteous salmon garth. Finally, mists cloaking the Lakeland fells, we end our journey at Muncaster Castle – seat of the Penningtons and one of the country's most haunted homes – to enjoy a Hallowe'en ghost story...
...in which we embark on a wild, wet-weather wander from Boot in Eskdale to explore the valley's folk history through the memories of residents. Striding out from Boot Inn, we talk with Patricia Nolan, whose mother once owned the Post Office, about an Eskdale childhood. And after rising by Eel Tarn to seek Aga-side shelter at Howes Farm, we talk with Janet and Noel Baines about a lifetime farming on Scafell. As we cross boggy Great Barrow, we discuss the names of locations from Doctor Bridge to Peel Place Noddle; we learn about long journeys on the Whitehaven bus – and the intoxicated trips home; we wonder why Wainwright overlooked striking Great Howe; we talk soggy bottoms in the Eskdale Show; and we consider why this long-isolated valley evokes such strong feelings of home.
...in which we stroll out from rainy Keswick with author and Back o' Skiddaw native, Kathleen Jones, to discuss the women in the lives of Wordsworth, Coleridge and Southey – sisters and wives whose stories have been lost in the margins of history. As we wander past Greta Hall – one-time home of the Southey and Coleridge families – we learn about the remarkable 'constellation' of young idealists (and orphans) who made Lakeland home; we consider the intense, often strained relationships between the group; we talk about opium addiction, domestic drudgery and chronic illness; we discuss long walks and constricted creative talents; and – arriving at Derwent Water as a storm brews down Borrowdale – we consider the key role played by the oft-lonely women in holding the group together, long after the men had fallen out.
…in which we head to Wasdale in the company of farmer, fell runner and Lakeland royalty Joss Naylor to discuss his legendary 1983 ‘Lakes, Meres and Waters’ run. In a wander onto the slopes of Buckbarrow – a patch of ground Joss has nurtured over decades – we discuss his 105-mile ‘day of magic’ run from Loweswater to Over Water whose time has never been bettered; we talk about the Iron Man's lifelong love of Wasdale; we recall a childhood of perilous school commutes and terrifying operations; we consider the healing properties of Guinness; we take a crash-course in Herdwick contraception... and we learn why a love of Lakeland solitude is key to his achievements as a long-distance runner.
...in which we explore the wildlife-rich meadows of Matterdale in the company of local lad Danny Teasdale, founder of the Ullswater Catchment Management company interest company (CIC). Moved to action by the devastation wrought to Glenridding by 2015's Storm Desmond, Danny set up the CIC to improve flood resilience in the valley and prove it is possible to restore nature in a way that complements sustainable farming. As we wander – passing re-wiggled becks, newly planted woodlands, bunged feeder streams and insect-heaven ponds – we hear about Danny's childhood passion for damning becks; we learn how word-of-mouth recommendation has energised more than 70% of Ullswater landowners; we consider why rural funding must be decentralised; and we relish the joys of unearthing salmon redds.
...in which we take in the salt air at the Victorian seaside resort of Grange-over-Sands with local historian and National Park Rights of Way Officer Nick Thorne. In a wide-ranging conversation covering history, ecology, tourism... and lots of old postcards, we walk the town's mile-long promenade and imagine the refined resort in its heyday; we visit the town's salt-water lido, in which generations of children shivered as they learnt to swim; we consider the history of paths in coppiced Eggerslack Wood, with its water ways and sunken lanes; and we discuss the practicalities and perils of crossing the ever-shifting Sands of Morecambe Bay, before alighting on Hampsfell's summit Hospice, with its breathtaking panorama.
...in which we journey to Millom to discuss the life and writings of Norman Nicholson, one of Cumbria's foremost – and most neglected – wordsmiths. On a coastal walk with Nicholson fan and academic Dr David Cooper, we visit 14 St. Georges Terrace – the home in which the son of Millom spent all but 20 months of his life – before exploring the site of the town's former iron works – ghost of an industry woven into the DNA of both town and man. As we wander, under brooding Black Combe, we learn about the poet's early-life traumas, we discuss the sanitarium convalescence that was to inform his painterly vision; we wrestle with concepts of place, home and provincialism; and – gazing west from Nicholson's grave – we let our eyes at last be blinded by dazzle.
…in which we stride out from Seathwaite with mining authority Mark Hatton to unearth the turbulent history of Borrowdale graphite. As we battle bracken on the fellside of Low Bank, we seek out the nature-reclaimed remains of a mining industry that played a key role in the emergence of industrial Britain. In a story that starts with a lone farmer discovering a means to mark his sheep and ends in financial collapse on a huge scale, we learn how critical Borrowdale and Keswick were in the development of early capitalism; we debunk the myth that Derwent Isle was used to safeguard German immmigrants; we meet counterfeiters and bandits; we wonder whether ‘breathing’ mines might explain legends of dragons; we consider how lawless this wild-west hamlet once was… and, last but not least, we talk pencils…
...in which we swap walking boots for the wheel as we journey down the M6 to meet John Dunning, founder of the nationally-acclaimed Tebay Services, sited above his beloved Westmorland Dales. Taking the long view of a man wed to land and community, we discuss farming roots; we hear about spiritual moments on the fells; we plot the insights and drive that turned an unremarkable stretch of motorway into a family-owned Cumbrian institution; we ponder the age-old history of travel through the Lune Gorge; and we consider the steps needed to build a resilient upland economy.
…in which we cross county lines to visit the internationally-important hay meadows of Swaledale. As we amble out from the Dales village of Muker with local lass and Keld Resource Centre manager Helen Guy, we discuss the traditional farming methods that support a wealth of wild flowers; we delve into the arduous, short lives of Swinner Gill lead miners; we discover David Attenborough's unlikely link with this isolated dalehead; we consider why sometimes you need to leave home to fall in love with it; and we revel in the dialect meanings behind Hartlakes, Crackpot, Buttertubs and 'tow'd man'.
...in which we tackle one of Lakeland's most iconic fells via the rocky arête of Swirral Edge. In the company of Tom Hayek from the John Muir Trust – the charity which manages Glenridding Common – we discuss people pressure in a post-lockdown world; we discover how locals are nursing sub-alpine plants for the high fells; we hear about Tom's journey bagging the Nuttalls; we take in Mark's panorama from this finest of felltops; and we consider why, when undertaking landscape-scale work, we must be prepared to make change we’ll not live to see.
…in which we explore a rainy Rusland valley – the wooded lowlands between Windermere and Coniston. As we wander, with Rusland Horizons’ Marion Brown, we learn about the industrial heritage of bobbin mills, charcoal pits and tanneries, and the extraordinary rarity of Cumbria’s Atlantic woodlands - Britain’s temperature rainforests - before being joined by Jo Clayton and Darryl Kelbrick, who abandoned the nine-to-five to buy, live in and work their own 33-acre wood. In the sheltered porch of their off-grid home on the hill, we talk about the highs and lows of a simpler way of life; we hear why trees don’t just need planting - they need long-term care; we discuss the couples’ sustainable lifestyle making charcoal products and traditional woodland crafts; we witness the devestation inflicted by out-of-kilter deer populations; and we abandon decimalisation in favour of the Cumbrian pimp.
...in which we stride out from the gateway village of Threlkeld, once a thriving industrial hub, with local lad, ex-forester and third ever Lake Distirct National Park warden, Donald Angus. As we walk - up the bluebell-flushed outgang of Blease Gill then down to picture-perfect Derwent Folds - we learn about the mining heritage of Threlkeld and the history of its quarry, whose stone flags and setts pave many northern towns; we talk about trainspotting on the old Penrith – Workington mineral line; we consider Tewet Tarn’s unlikely contribution to Cumberland brewing; we share recollections about the one-time TB 'sani' on the hill; and – most importantly of all – we ask exactly who was Fisher’s Wife?
…in which we journey south to the snow-blossomed Lyth Valley to unearth the heritage of damson plums with long-time friends and local lads Desmond Holmes and Hartley Trotter. As shadows lengthen over the peat-cut mosses, we take a trip down memory lane, considering the history of the nutty-flavoured ‘Shropshire prune’ - from its use in the Kendal tanning trade to its long association with northern jam; we hear tales of the families, prisoners of war and Land Girls who picked the fruit; we reminisce about bonfires on Whitbarrow, Melvyn's Mobile Cinema and threshing-day hotpots; and we discover why retirement is still a long way off for the two octogenarians…
...in which we head to Borrowdale in Westmorland with author and dry-stone waller Terry McCormick to uncover the lost history of hill farming. As we explore one of Lakeland's quietest valleys, we take the long view of a turbulent history, starting with the David vs Goliath battle of the Kendal Tenant Rights Dispute 1619–1626 that established the pattern of resilient farmsteads still operating today; we consider why writers – from Wordsworth to Wainwright – have frequently misunderstood or ignored the lives of upland farmers; we ponder how a new golden age of farming literature – championed by James Rebanks – can co-exist with the closure of Newton Rigg; and we discover why Terry's new vocation as a waller ('Aim for beauty; settle for strength') at the age of 55 felt like coming home.
...in which we track the undulating west shore of Coniston Water from Sunny Bank to Coniston Hall with backpacker, long-distance walker and prolific outdoors author Paddy Dillon. As we wander, through woods and over meadows, we discuss the origins and delights of the Cumbria Way – the Lakes' only dedicated long-distance footpath; we challenge Paddy to sum-up each of the UK's National Trails in just one word; we consider why patience may be the best approach to tackling problem campers; and we discuss two great Lakeland eccentrics: W. A. Poucher and George Constantinescu.
...in which we enter wild country at the Back o'Skiddaw to visit Skiddaw House - the loneliest house in England. As we wander, with former wardens Martin Webster and Marie-Pierre Gaudez, we talk through the history of the one-time hunting lodge, learn about the icy perils of Whitewater Dash, discuss the off-grid practicalities of living and working four miles from the nearest road – and discover what it takes to turn a House into a home.
...in which we celebrate our 50th birthday by handing the microphone to the next generation, as we hear from three young people with a passion for Cumbria and the Lake District. In a wide-ranging chat with poet Matt Sowerby from Kirkby Lonsdale, film-maker Rachel Jessett from Kendal and TV producer Rachel Owen from the University of Cumbria, we discuss walking and mental health; we ask what role Cumbria can play in tackling climate change and biodiversity loss; we consider northern identity and ask why the north is underrepresented in national politics and media; we brainstorm policies that might keep more young people in the county; and each guest recommends a walk, pub and place that they love.
...in which we commemorate the 30th anniversary of Alfred Wainwright's passing by taking a virtual stroll to Innominate Tarn with archivist Chris Butterfield and long-time AW film-maker Richard Else. As we wander – through the history of the Pictorial Guides and AW's television career – we discuss what makes the Guides so unique; we talk about the emergence of an unlikely cult personality; we hear why the great fell-wanderer was almost certainly on the autistic spectrum; we trace AW's final steps onto his beloved Haystacks; and we pose the question: 'Was AW a genius?'
...in which we head to the Cumbrian borderlands with long-time Roman authority David Breeze for a virtual stroll along Hadrian's Wall. As we wander west from the village of Gilsland towards airy Craggle Hill, we deep-dive into Emperor Hadrian's era of pragmatic consolidation; we learn how his vision changed as the Wall's construction progressed; we ponder why threats from across the Solway never materialised; and we discover why the Wall was not the end of Empire – but merely the base of a vast infrastructure extending north.
...in which we embark on a virtual pilgrimage with John Fleetwood and Stephen Wright, the founders of two Cumbrian pilgrim trails. As we wander, from the great rock cathedrals of Scafell Crag and Napes Needle to the softly-spoken churches around the Northern Fells, we ask what it means to be a pilgrim; we unearth the history of Saint Kentigern – Cumbria's great saint; we consider why long distance walking generates such a deep bond with the landscape; and we ask what spiritual journeys have given to Stephen and John.
...in which we temporarily swap our walking boots for the passenger seat of an ancient Bongo campervan to take an A–Z trip around the Lake District with Carlisle-based author Richard Harris. As we roam the National Park in search of solitude and mini adventures, we discover a Martindale stained-glass window that holds clues to wartime tragedy; we learn how Nibthwaite – with its Arthur Ransome claim to fame – has rejected the tourist limelight; we discuss how, post-lockdown, camper vans became public enemy No.1; and we hear why Cleator Moor – one-time candidate for Lourdes of the north – is the friendliest place in the county.
...in which we are joined by Lakeland Walker editor John Manning for our annual delve into Countrystrides past, picking our best bits from 2020 as we chat about everything from herdwicks to heroines; from bonfires to booze, from rewilding to rediscovering the joys of local before making New Years resolutions with guests including Sue Allan, James Rebanks, Julia Aglionby, Bill Birkett, Steve Matthews, Bill Lloyd and Penny Bradshaw.
...in which we take a seasonal stroll from Wetheral along the banks of a swollen River Eden with historian and writer Dr Sue Allen. As we walk, through winter woods to St Constantine's Cells in the December gloaming, we talk about Cumbrian Christmases past, about mischief and misrule; about why Cumbria's 'hackin' pre-empted Scotland's haggis; about why Christmas wasn't what it used to be – even in the 18th century; and about John Lawson – the man who captured so many Wetheral memories in the late 1800s – before Sue regales us with dialect song and a seasonal 'merryneet' tune. Happy Christmas to all.
...in which we journey to Shap, the historic transport hub, to take a wintry walk among the Far Eastern Fells in the footsteps of 1950s postman Jimmy Eland. In the company of born-and-bred Shapite Jean Scott-Smith and author Alan Cleaver, we visit the secluded remains of Shap Abbey, discover the far-from-the-madding crowd loveliness of Swindale, learn about the hard-graft lives of rural postmen, and enjoy Jean's memories of pastoral Wet Sleddale before the dam rose .
...in which we go on holiday by mistake with author David Banning to talk about Cumbria and the Lake District on film. In a locked-down virtual wander that takes in Wet Sleddale, Coniston Water, Little Langdale and the rebel planet of Takodana, we consider the tropes of Cumbrian cinema – from 'rural escape' to zombie apocalypse; we learn about the value of Swallows & Amazons and Miss Potter to the tourist economy; we relive the moment enfant terrible Ken Russell fell in love with Lakeland; and we spend too long quoting Withnail and I.
...in which we enjoy a Loughrigg circular with Dr Kerri Andrews to celebrate the life of Harriet Martineau, the ‘wild rover’ sociologist who recovered from debilitating illness to become one of Lakeland’s great walkers and one of the most successful guidebook writers of the Victorian age. As we encounter tourist honeypots including The Grot, Rydal Cave and dusk-lit Lily Tarn, we explore the neglected tradition of women writer-walkers, learn about Martineau’s mission to become ‘a Laker’, discover how walking has helped ease physical and mental trauma; and hear about Kerri’s admiration for the ‘homely’ and ‘familiar’ narratives of local hero Dorothy Wordsworth.
...in which we take a magical autumn wander through the oak woods of Penny Rock with musician, author and outdoorsman Bill Lloyd, to hear about his life extracting timber from Cumbrian woodlands with heavy horse Ginger. As we reach the mirrorred waters of Grasmere we talk about the sunset days of an ancient craft and the bond between man and horse; we discuss Char-fishing with the Windermere Fleet and lonely nights in the Loweswater bothy; and we discover how Beatrix Potter's gelding irons came to reside alongside Bill's fire.
…in which we take an autumnal wander along the wooded west shore of Thirlmere, the reservoir that displaced a close-knit pastoral community to fulfil 19th century Manchester’s ever-growing thirst for water.
As we walk, we learn from author and one-time vicar of the parish Geoff Darrell about the valley as it once was: the patchwork fields, twin lakes, Wath bridge and diminutive settlement of City.
Then, as we reach the lakeshore – walls from a past age slipping under the waves – we hear from former Friends of the Lake District Director Ian Brodie about the grand ambitions, political manoeuvres and clandestine gambles that would flood a valley, divide the nation and lead, in time, to the establishment of national parks and the emergence of conservation movements worldwide.
...in which we head to Matterdale for a guided tour of James Rebanks' hill farm. As we explore thriving meadows, newly-dug ponds and scrub-fringed becks, we discuss James' latest book, English Pastoral, and the "beautiful compromise" of sustainably stewarding the land. Taking a three generation view of farming in Matterdale and the Eden Valley, we hear why there's fire in the belly of young shepherds, why talk of the 'sheepwrecked uplands' is wide of the mark, why Beatrix Potter is James' writing heroine – and why Cumbria's best food is to be had at The Little Chippy, Penrith.
...in which we celebrate the remarkable life of Canon Hardwicke Drummond Rawnsley, campaigner, author and co-founder of the National Trust. As we wander from Rawnsley's old parish church of St Kentigern's, Crosthwaite, into Keswick, we chat with publisher and bookseller Stephen Matthews about the poet-priest's many passions – from rural crafts to Skiddaw bonfires; about the 'muscular Christianity' that made the Wolds-born orator a man of the people, and of the tireless campaigning punctuated by depressions that sealed Rawnsley's legacy as a Cumbrian Great.
...in which we journey to the Isle of Walney in Cumbria's deep south for a salt-laced amble through its unique landscape, wildlife and heritage. In the company of Cumbria Wildlife Trust's Jamie Normington and local lass Helen Wall, we admire Walney's beloved wildflowers, learn about the UK's only female lighthouse keeper, consider the unsung protective role Walney played in World War II and seek out members of the island's lonely-hearts seal colony.
...in which we take a nostalgia-laced wander through the children’s literature of Lakeland with University of Cumbria’s Dr Penny Bradshaw. On a balmy Black Crag circular with majestic views of iconic locations in fiction – from Arthur Ransome’s Coniston Water to Marjorie Lloyd’s 'Fell Farm' – we consider the legacy of Wordsworth and his vision of childhood, unnpick the strands that made Beatrix Potter’s work unique, discuss why literature from the county casts such an enduring spell and hear how a wartime evacuation from the Manchester slums lies behind Penny’s own love of the Lakes.
...in which we make the short, sweet ascent of Knott Rigg with Foundation for Common Land Executive Director Dr Julia Aglionby. Enjoying views over Newlands and Buttermere, we discuss the importance of England's historic common land, learn how Cumbria's commoners shape the landscape, tackle the thorny issue of rewilding and consider how we might shape a nature-rich, culture-rich Lake District as we enter the most challenging period facing our uplands since the Second World War.
…in which we challenge archaeologist Bruce Bennison to compress 7,000 years of Cumbrian history into 45 minutes. Setting out from the little-visited Neolithic gem of Mayburgh Henge, we discover why the joining of the Rivers Eamont and Lowther was so important on the historic ‘Western route’ up Britain. At the imposing sandstone facade of Brougham Castle we enter Roman times to consider the garrisons guarding the strategic river crossing. Finally, wandering via back lanes to Clifton Hall’s Pele Tower, we move on to the Border Raids and two pivotal events in the modern history of Britain: the birth of England and the last battle on English soil.
...in which we explore Lady Anne's Way, the long distance trail celebrating its 25th birthday this year, with its founder, Sheila Gordon. As we stride along the airy High Way – an ancient route linking Wensleydale and Mallerstang – Sheila recounts the remarkable tale of the indomitable first lady of Westmorland, Lady Anne Clifford, and her 38-year battle to recover her lands and castles – before encountering crumbling packhorse inns, dashing highwaymen and a church that time forgot, all in the melodic company of lapwing, curlew and oyster catchers.
…in which we celebrate the folk music tradition of Cumbria on a virtual wander around the Back o’Skiddaw with local musician and academic Dr Sue Allan. As we amble from Ireby to Caldbeck, over airy Aughtertree Fell and alongside the tumbling Howk, we discuss hunting songs, learn about notorious horseman (and drinker) John Peel, delve into the history of fairs, dances and merrymeets, and sample the dialect verse of Robert Anderson, the Bard of Cumberland.
The Boat Band and Greg Stephens
Greg Stephens has been researching old Cumbrian tunes since the 60's. He plays with the Boat Band, who in 2001 recorded 'A Trip to the Lakes', an album of old tunes. They recorded it to celebrate the first Duddon Valley Folk Folk festival, held when the foot and mouth lockdown was eased at the end of that disastrous summer for the valley. The record was subsequently issued by Harbourtown Records in 2009 to enormous acclaim.
The Boat Band has been playing since 1989, seventeen times at Glastonbury Festival, once at the St Kilda International Cajun Festival, and most points in between. Currently (May 2020) in lockdown like everyone else, but hoping to be playing again soon. In the Newfield Inn in the Duddon valley, or wherever.
contact: boatband@yahoo.co.uk
...in which we take a stroll down memory lane along that finest of lakes – Buttermere – journeying from the bluebells of Rannerdale to Gatesgarth, a farm with a remarkable history. As we wander, with Angus Winchester, Professor Emeritus in the Department of History, Lancaster University, who was bought up in Lorton Vale, we talk about fact and bloody fiction in 'the secret valley'; the tragic charms of Buttermere's famous Maid; the crucial role Gatesgarth played in establishing the Herdwick breed; and the unlikely reason behind the name Innominate Tarn.
...in which we take a lockdown-necessitated virtual walk up Scafell Pike with historian and author Kathryn Aalto, whose new book, Writing Wild, gives voice to women walking pioneers whose writing has deepened our connection to the natural world. Taking a 200-year overview of nature writing, we discuss the life and legacy of Dorothy Wordsworth, inspiration behind the most famous poem in the English language, and the key role she played in the lives of the Lakeland poets. Relocating briefly to the shores of Ullswater we discuss the Romantics' backlash against industrial 'progress', learn why James Rebanks is Kathryn's Cumbrian hero, talk about how landscapes can heal both individuals and societies, and attempt to answer the question, when walking in England, how does it make you feel?
…in which we explore the Crake Valley, south of Coniston Water, with sixth-generation hill farmer John Atkinson and his partner Maria Benjamin. From the yard of Nibthwaite Grange – where we learn about John’s rare breeds and Maria’s wool enterprise – we discover how the couple are building a diversified farm business that both respects heritage and works with nature. As we walk onto airy Bethecar Moor we discuss the return of lapwings to the common; lonely lives on the fell; holidaymakers who've packed nothing but Bollinger for their stay at Parkamoor – an off-grid house in the clouds; and why all farmers should take up golf…
…in which we make a Little Langdale circuit with climber, author, photographer and campaigner Bill Birkett. From iconic Slater’s Bridge we explore the cavernous Cathedral Quarry, where Bill made his first climb, then head through tunnels into the heart of the mountain to reach the airy drovers’ track above High Tilberthwaite. As we walk we discuss a family with rock in its blood, plotting the 541 ‘Birketts’, haymaking time in bygone days, Bill’s plans for a Viking send-off and the increasingly thorny issue of off-road 4x4s.
...in which we attempt a winter ascent of Lingmell alongside the dramatic chasm and accident blackspot of Piers Gill with Lake District Search and Mountain Rescue Association chairman and Wasdale team member Richard Warren. As we walk, through increasingly Alpine conditions, we talk about the non-judgemental camaraderie of the teams, rescuing lost dogs and cannabis casualties and why it's so easy to go wrong descending Scafell Pike. Abandoning our summit attempt we discuss the pros and cons of social media and learn about how teams say farewell to those who lose their lives on the fells.
…in which we climb the perennial Coniston favourite from the Tilberthwaite quarries up the breezy ridge of Steel Edge, one of Wainwright’s missing routes. As we stroll, with George Kitching, we discuss Andy Goldsworthy’s sheepfolds, the tricks of Langdale smuggler Lanty Slee, how a WWI Howitzer ended up below the Coniston waves, and an unlikely IRA terror plot to assassinate John Major using Levers Water.
…in which we are joined by Lakeland Walker editor John Manning to serve up a selection of our favourite moments from the Countrystride year on the fells. We hear from film maker Terry Abraham about his connection with the high places; we re-wander the great Pennine Way crossing to High Cup; we discuss ongoing battles to retain access; and we pick our best walks of 2019, before closing with an as-yet-unbroadcast interview with fell walking legend Alfred Wainwright as he talks about the road passes of Lakeland.
…in which we walk the sandstone cliffs from St Bees to Whitehaven with author and historian Alan Cleaver. As we stroll, above a millpond-still Irish Sea, we learn about the coast's Mummers' tradition and the ghost ship Mary Jane; we hear bygone memories of snowy winters and diary entries from a Regency-era farm; we discuss the smuggling origins of rum butter; and we sign off with a yuletide letter from the Western Front. * Alan’s award-winning book, The Corpse Roads of Cumbria, is available from all good bookshops. * You can find Alan on Twitter at @thelonningsguy
…in which we follow the gently-meandering River Petteril from an M6 underpass on Carlisle’s urban fringe through Wreay’s ancient woodland to one of Cumbria's most beautiful churches in search of lost words. As we stroll, with Jamie Normington from Cumbria Wildlife Trust, we discuss our changing woodlands, Cumbrian birdlife vernacular, how we can reforge a connection with the landscape, and the remarkable architectural legacy of Sara Losh, first lady of Wreay (pronounced ‘rear’).
…in which we walk from Honister Pass to the summit of Great Gable in the company of Dr Jonathan Westaway to join the annual Remembrance Sunday service led by the Fell and Rock Climbing Club. As we walk, past the Drum House and over Green Gable, we talk about the pioneering years of British rock climbing, boisterous nights in the Wasdale Head Inn, finding solace on the heights and the dedication of Gable to the nation, before joining the felltop congregation for the act of remembrance.
…in which we follow the River Eden downstream to Kirkby Stephen with leading campaigner in the walking world, Kate Ashbrook, General Secretary of the Open Spaces Society and Chair of the Ramblers. As we head north from Pendragon Castle we discuss the joy of sunrise walks, the never-ending battle to open the countryside and taking Nicholas van Hoogstraten to court. * To find out more about Kate see https://campaignerkate.wordpress.com/about-kate-ashbrook/ * We're grateful to today's guest producer, Helen Millican from BBC Cumbria, for standing in for Dave. Helen hosts the weekly Great Outdoors Show. * For more about the Ramblers 'Don't Lose Your Way' campaign see https://www.ramblers.org.uk/get-involved/campaign-with-us/dont-lose-your-way-2026.aspx
...in which to celebrate Countrystride's first birthday producer Dave Felton asks the questions of host Mark Richards, who guides us onto Pike o'Stickle and talks about his journey from Cotswolds farmer to Lakeland guidebook author, his pen-and-ink apprenticeship with Alfred Wainwright, and his lifelong love of walking. Climbing out of Great Langdale, we discuss secret ways onto the iconic Pikes, favourite fells and why home for Mark was always going to be Cumbria.
...In which we walk from Langdon Beck to Dufton along the UK's most iconic National Trail with author and Pennine Way authority Andrew McCloy. As we embrace the big skies of the North Pennines, we discuss Tom Stephenson's tireless access campaigning, consider the highs and lows of the 268-mile walk, theorise over Wainwright's dislike of the Trail and end up spellbound atop the glacial valley of High Cup.
Andrew's book, The Pennine Way - the Path, the People, the Journey, is available from Cicerone. It comes highly recommended.
...in which we head to Martindale with Amy Bray, the Matterdale teenager who is campaigning around Cumbria to raise awareness of single-use plastic pollution and asking us to consider 'Another Way' of consuming. As we summit Beda Fell we talk about Amy's love for the fells and wild swimming, we discuss steps that communities can take to restore a positive balance with nature – and we're rewarded with a distant glimpse of The Nab's elusive deer herd.
...in which we journey out East to the Cumbrian Dales and the softly-spoken valley of Dentdale to meet Dales Way creator Colin Speakman to celebrate the Way's 50th birthday. As we walk, past wildflower meadows, Tudor cottages and the Dent Brewery, Colin discusses Cowgill's link to royalty, the valley's infamous ('terrible') knitters, the satisfaction of establishing a classic walk – one of the UK's most popular – and local hero Adam Sedgwick.
…in which we set out from Coniston to celebrate the bicentenary of the birth of John Ruskin, the Victorian polymath who wrote that mountains are "the beginning and the end of all natural scenery". As we walk, with Ruskin Museum archivist Vicky Slowe – past wildflower meadows, lime kilns and iconic Yewtree Farm to arrive at Coniston Water with its view of Brantwood – we discuss the great man's remarkable life, his connections, and his legacy on everything from architecture and education to social thinking and our understanding of climate change.
…in which we are joined by Cumbria Magazine and Lakeland Walker editor John Manning to walk from Dufton to Appleby-in-Westmorland along the Pennine Journey, the long distance footpath inspired by Alfred Wainwright’s 1938 ramble through the hills of northern England.
As we walk - through bluebell woods and down cloistered ghylls - John discusses his life-changing experience on the Pennine Way, explains why Lakeland needs protecting more than ever, talks about kindness in remote places and reveals why Helvellyn holds a special place in his heart.
...In which we wander with Ann Lingard along the mosses, marshes and mudflats of the Solway coast. Enveloped in birdsong, we take in big skies, skeleton trees and wildlife-rich marshes before discussing the rise – and dramatic fall – of one of Cumbria's lost railways, the dying craft of salmon 'haaf netting' and how Ann's love for the sea was woken during rockpool 'guddles' with her Cornish father.
...in which we celebrate World Heritage Day by exploring Great Langdale with National Trust archaeologist Jamie Lund. Setting out from Sticklebarn, we talk dry stone walls, the remarkable Cumbrian commons and the legacy of campaigner George Trevelyan, before surveying Pike o’Stickle and the perilously-located axe factory – part of the UK’s first major industry.
…in which we climb above Buttermere on a blustery ridge walk over the High Stile range with researcher and broadcaster David Powell-Thompson, best known for his appearances on Terry Abraham’s 'Life of a Mountain' films and Julia Bradbury’s 'Wainwright Walks'. As we wander - mostly in cloud - we discuss epic mountain days; ticking off the 214 (for the fourth time); the ‘steamy’ atmosphere of the old Brown’s Bus from Ambleside to Hawskhead; and hear about David’s chance encounter with A. Harry Griffin atop Pillar Rock.
...in which we climb to the impressive upland corrie tarn of Blea Water from Mardale Head with mountain leader Phil Tinning before striking over rough country to High Street's airy Rough Crag ridge - one-time home of Eddie the last Lakeland Eagle. As we walk we refresh our navigational skills, encounter deer tracks and long-lost mining trods, and are converted to the joys of wild walking.
...in which we walk Derwent Water's wooded west shore from Manesty to Brandelhow Wood with National Trust ranger Roy Henderson, who talks to us about the valley's industrial past and today's management, before organising a search party for a missing labrador. At Crow Park we're joined by Dr Christopher Donaldson to take a long view of the Picturesque and the birth of the worldwide conservation movement.
…in which we make the classic Helvellyn ascent to the Hole in the Wall with film maker Terry Abraham, whose celebrated ‘Life of a Mountain’ documentaries have captured the essence of the Lakeland fells - and the communities that live among them - in a way no others have. En route we talk about what inspires Terry, the highs and lows of filming in wild places, why Thirlmere needed no zipwire, and how it feels to be thought of as an honorary Cumbrian.
...in which we brave the drizzle to walk from Dove Cottage in Townend along the old corpse road round Grasmere to join the festivities at Allan Bank. En route we talk with Marian Veevers about how William and Dorothy Wordsworth celebrated Christmas, and hear from the National Trust's Elaine Taylor about seasonal Cumbrian traditions. We close with music from the Cumbrian Duo, who play us out with a traditional local wassailing tune.
With thanks to The Cumbrian Duo for the original music from their album Hunsup through the Wood.
...in which we wander up rugged Borrowdale to visit the Langstrath Birch, one of seven enigmatic trees identified by Harriet and Rob Fraser in their Long View project. As we walk we discuss rewilding, poetry and Dorothy Wonrdsworth's little-known Scafell Pike ascent before breathing in as a flock of ewes heads down the valley.
…in which we embark on a spooky - and windy - Hallowe’en wander along the moorland corpse road between St Catherine’s Church, Boot, and St Olaf’s Church, Wasdale Head. We are joined by historian Alan Cleaver who shares his passion for lonnins, talks us through the story of Burnmoor Tarn’s ghostly pony, and enthuses on the value of story - and tall tales - within Cumbria's cultural landscape. We even receive a text from Orange welcoming us to the Isle of Man - the extreme Western Lake District.
...In which we walk between Windermere and Brockhole to climb the viewpoint of Orrest Head, where author, artist and fellwalker Alfred Wainwright first fell in love with the Lake District. We speak with Chris Butterfield, an avid collector of the great man's memorabilia, and share a conversation with Andrew Nichol, who worked with the enigmatic fellwanderer at the Westmorland Gazette, and who was responsible for bringing the reluctant hero of the fells out of the shadows and into the hearts of the nation.
...In which we gain a farmer’s perspective on life close to Hadrian’s Wall. Stockmen and women converse about their lives and the age-old cycle of the seasons stretching back long before the Romans imposed their frontier. We walk from an organic dairy farm which produces fabulous cheese to a traditional upland smallholding along the Maiden Way and Hadrian’s Wall National Trail.
...In which we set out from Glenridding, a village that owes its origins to the lead mining industry, to climb Sheffield Pike. During the walk we meet Eddie Pool, the last surviving miner from the Greenside Mine, and share with local resident Tim Clarke an appreciation of the importance of an empowered community.
Dispatch #1: SCAFELL PIKE - Roof of England
...In which we tackle the Big One, Scafell Pike, from Wasdale Head. We're joined by Fix the Fells' Iain Gray, who talks to us about how path engineering has evolved over the 30 years he has worked for the National Trust. On the summit - with its newly rebuilt war memorial - we speak to all ages and nationalities about what summitting England's highest peak means to them.