Conversation with a chef: Recent Episodes
Jo Rittey
Ever wondered what goes on in the kitchens of Melbourne’s restaurants? Conversation with a chef gives the back story of our city’s favourite eating spots. This is not a slick podcast, in fact it's pretty rustic. I'm Jo Rittey. I'm a French teacher and food writer and not that great on the technology. What you'll hear is the conversation how it happened, with no bells and whistles. I'll work on that!
When Mikey Dalton first walked into San Telmo in Melbourne with a CV in his hand, fresh off the plane from Ireland, he could hardly have imagined where that small decision would lead. Fourteen years later, he is now chef and co-owner of San Telmo Brisbane, a restaurant three years in the making and already finding its own rhythm in a new city. It was very easy to chat with Mikey. Even over the phone. He speaks about cooking over fire with genuine fascination, especially the chefs who have spent their lives learning how to master it, and his curiosity about food remains as strong as ever. Our conversation wandered from Brisbane’s changing dining habits to ten-metre wedding grills in Argentina, with a pair of antique doors somewhere at sea, slowly making their way towards the restaurant. It was glorious.
Denmark House feels like a small pocket of Copenhagen tucked above Little Collins Street. Light pours through the large, black-framed windows, Danish drifts across the room, and Raj Shrestha looks completely at home. After spending almost 15 years in Denmark, he has found a place in Melbourne where that part of his life still feels close. Raj is deeply passionate about being a chef, but there is nothing showy about him. He speaks beautifully about learning, leadership and the responsibility of looking after people, whether they are working beside him or walking through the restaurant door. We talked about growing up in Nepal, discovering himself in Copenhagen and now his new life in Melbourne. I especially loved the way Raj spoke about energy, and the importance of noticing how people are feeling before the first ticket even comes in, as well as his curiosity and desire to always be better at what he does.
Over a fragrant samosa, kofta and garlic naan, with a cup of chai in hand, I sat down with Sunil Tyagi at Indian Star and listened as he traced an extraordinary life in food spanning more than five decades. He began his training in India in the 1970s, learning from great chefs and grinding spices by hand, before his work took him to London, Japan and eventually Melbourne, where he opened Indian Star in Moonee Ponds in 1984. Sunil spoke about discipline, instinct, generosity and the deep knowledge of spices that has shaped his cooking. Warm, forthright and gloriously expressive, he has a story for every dish and an unwavering belief that being a chef is not simply a job, but something you devote yourself to completely.
There is something very easy and generous about the way Reki Reinantha tells his story. He came to Australia from Indonesia as a high school student, began studying architecture, then slowly found himself pulled towards the kitchen and the pleasure of making people happy through food. Since then, his path has taken him through Japanese restaurants, major hospitality groups, pop-ups, setbacks and, eventually, businesses of his own. Since then, his path has taken him through Japanese restaurants, major hospitality groups, pop-ups, setbacks and, eventually, ventures of his own. Today, that includes Sachi, his seafood and sushi restaurant built around the idea that exceptional Japanese food can be both highly skilled and genuinely accessible; Atsu, which has earned a loyal following for its fun katsu, skewers and highballs; and Common Cuts, a newer venture that applies the same philosophy of quality and approachability to Melbourne's steakhouse scene. But what stayed with me most was not the scale of what he has built. It was the way he talks about the people around him: the responsibility of leading a team and the very lovely belief that good things happen when you are surrounded by good people. Listening to Reki, it becomes clear that the restaurants are only part of the story. At the heart of everything he has created is a commitment to community, opportunity and the relationships that make hospitality.
Amarjeet Singh is not someone who naturally enjoys being on a microphone or in front of a camera. He was shy when we began talking at Bibi Ji, which is about to celebrate its second birthday, but the more we spoke, the more his deep attachment to hospitality came through. Once the recording stopped, Amar became much more animated. He talked about how restaurant owners have to be able to multitask, and how he carries a toolkit with him whenever he visits one of his venues. He can fix plumbing and gas problems, check in with the kitchen, talk to staff and move on to the next restaurant. After Covid, he lost three venues, and people told him he was crazy to open Bibi Ji. But Amar sees failure as part of learning, and two years on, the restaurant is full of colour, families and regulars who travel across Melbourne to eat there.
As I drove out of Melbourne and left the fog behind, the day opened up into that bright, golden Daylesford light and the whole town seemed to be out walking, eating, browsing and making the most of it. I’d arrived a little early, wandered up one side of Vincent Street, back down the other, bought a scarf and a block of soap from Marseille, then stepped into Kadota to meet chef and co-owner Aaron Schembri. Kadota is calm, beautiful and deeply considered, but Aaron’s path to it has been anything but straightforward. He grew up around here, left school young, found his way into kitchens, and later into Japan, where food opened up something much bigger for him than technique. Sitting with him in the restaurant he has built with his wife, Risa, what struck me most was how thoughtful he is, and how lightly he wears what he has already achieved. There is no sense of wanting to settle into success. He is still questioning, still pushing, still learning, still trying to make Kadota more fully itself.
I sat down with Mark Tagnipez at Marmont to talk truffles, but the conversation very quickly became about much more than that. Mark is warm, funny and wonderfully unguarded, and his story moves from Los Angeles to Hawaii to Melbourne, from Filipino food at home to Chicano neighbourhood cooking, deep fryers, hay fever, fried chicken, monkey bread and the thrill of discovering that maybe truffles aren’t overrated after all. There’s a lovely openness to the way Mark talks about food: where it comes from, who it is for, and how much of yourself you can quietly leave on the plate.
Deli has grown, Degraves Street has opened, Made by Smith is beginning to supply chefs with high-quality plant-based products, and deliveries are heading interstate. But what I loved about this conversation is that Shannon doesn’t smooth over any of it. She talks openly about how close the business came to falling over, the brutal maths of hospitality, and the challenge that has kept her in plant-based cooking for 20 years: making food people want to eat, not because it is vegan, but because it is good.
I knew when I went to the launch of High Cheese at The Westin that Jeremy Spradbery from Supercheese would be a great person to talk to, and visiting his Richmond shop proved it. We stood together beside his impressive hero fridge: a glorious lineup of cheeses that each show off their style, while he told me how he became a self professed curd nerd, weaving in stories from kitchens, farms, and festivals around the world. His enthusiasm was irresistible, and I walked out not only with a deeper appreciation for cheese, but with a beautifully curated selection for my dinner party this weekend.
Wine Festival that sends him into shopping centres across Melbourne to create free, centre-inspired doughnuts. There was a milk tea brûlée doughnut at The Glen, pink lamingtons in Frankston, baklava cheesecake at Broadmeadows and matcha yuzu at Box Hill. But the real joy of this conversation is hearing how Raph thinks about shopping centres, food courts, local flavour and those small, sweet moments with family and friends that become much bigger memories than you expect.
When I arrived at Tarra, Mike Jacques was in the thick of service. Mike is executive chef for Searoad Hospitality, overseeing Tarra in Queenscliff, Onda in Sorrento, the ferry offerings and now Wilsons Prom too. We spoke about Tarra as a “postcard for the Bellarine Peninsula”, and Onda as its Mediterranean-leaning counterpart across the bay: a restaurant over the water with wood-fired cooking, seafood and the feeling of having stepped into a small fishing village without ever leaving Victoria. We also went back through Mike’s career: oyster farms in Chile, The Press Club, Philippe Mouchel, Michelin-starred London kitchens, Claridge’s, Geelong’s Tulip, and the decision to step away from the chase just enough to make room for family. What stayed with me most was the way Mike talked about food as something temporary but powerful; a plate is made, eaten and gone, but the memory of it can linger for years.
I’ve always had a soft spot for Queenscliff. Every year, we make our pilgrimage down for the Queenscliff Music Festival, pitch our tent on the footy oval, and live very happily for a few days on music, festival food and that particular seaside feeling the town does so well. So to arrive this time and stay at the restored Queenscliff Hotel, in the glorious Stone Pine Suite, with its enormous bath and all that quiet, old-world luxury, felt slightly ridiculous in the best possible way. I felt like a queen. The chat itself was just as lovely. I sat down with owners Tammy and Rob Charter, and executive chef Josh Smith, and very quickly it felt like a conversation with friends. There was such warmth between them, and such care in the way they talked about the hotel, the town, the food and the people around them. It was wholesome in the best sense of the word: generous, funny, thoughtful and full of heart.
Tucked into the trees along Monbulk Road in Belgrave, Killik Handcrafted Rum Distillery is more than just a place to drink; it’s a destination where small-batch spirits, ambitious food, and a warm, intimate atmosphere come together. When we visited, we were seated in a gorgeous private room with a crackling log burner and views out to the forest, and enjoyed a generous, flavour-packed feast that perfectly matched Killik’s handcrafted rum and cocktails. At the heart of the kitchen is head chef Kevin Peiris, who joined six months ago and has already reshaped the menu with his distinctive style. Originally from coastal Sri Lanka, Kevin brings bold, aromatic flavours: coconut, curry leaves, pandan, and spice, thoughtfully adapted for a local palate. With over twelve years’ experience across leading Mornington Peninsula venues, he blends his heritage with Western techniques, creating dishes that are both creative and approachable, all while leading his team with a calm, disciplined focus on learning and making people happy through food.
I sat down with Shane Reeves at The Gilroy on Bay Street in Port Melbourne, a place I could easily walk to, given I live just down the road, but one that’s absolutely worth the drive or the ride on the 109 tram. Tucked into a quieter stretch of the street, The Gilroy is a narrow, atmospheric space defined by its arched ceiling and the kind of cocooning warmth that makes you want to settle in and stay awhile. It’s a venue that feels both polished and deeply personal; European in spirit, but unmistakably local. With over 30 years in hospitality, Shane has created more than just a wine bar and restaurant. He’s built a space grounded in mentorship, integrity, and connection: from supporting young kitchen talent to championing local suppliers and curating a 200-plus bottle wine list. We had a lovely chat about hospitality with heart and about creating somewhere people feel known, looked after, and always welcome. I stayed on for dinner and had a delicious escabeche with white anvovies and local mussels, the cheese souffle and the cotoletta. I’m already thinking about when I’ll wander back.
Seated outside at Babaji’s Kerala Kitchen, beside the warmth of the fire pit and surrounded by the hills of Warburton, I first spoke with owner Billy Crombie. As the conversation continued, chef Jithin Pattiyal joined me, sharing his journey from Kerala to Australia and offering insight into the authentic, carefully crafted approach to cooking that underpins everything at Babaji’s.
Billy Crombie and husband Max (Mohammed) Kamil Hassan don’t run a typical regional restaurant. At Babaji’s Kerala Kitchen, set in a restored 1936 cabaret hall on the edge of Warburton in Victoria’s Yarra Valley, they have built something closer to a cultural bridge, and, for many Southern Indians, a portal back home. In this conversation, Billy talks through everything from the ritual of pouring a steaming davara coffee and the pull of nostalgia, the familiar feel of Kerala recreated in the hills and the importance of community. She reflects on the challenge of staying fiercely authentic in a market that doesn’t always understand South Indian food, the unlikely journey from a market stall to a destination restaurant people will drive hours to reach, and the deeply personal mix of place, identity and community that underpins everything Babaji’s has become. It was such a great chat and Billy gave me lots of delicious curries to take away and try with my friends in Warburton, which was generous and lovely.
There’s a particular kind of welcome you only find in places built slowly and with intent, and that’s exactly what I walked into at The Independent in Gembrook. Mauro Callegari has shaped this former mechanics’ garage into something unmistakably his; part restaurant, part gathering place, part expression of a life spent cooking and travelling across continents before landing in the Dandenong Ranges. Before we sat down to talk, he walked me through the space, pointing out artworks, ingredients, and the quiet corners where mid week prep happens. What followed was an open, generous conversation about the realities of running a regional restaurant now, the shifting landscape of hospitality, and the way Mauro’s Argentinian Italian heritage and years of travel find their way, subtly and confidently, onto every plate.
I sat down with Franck Sammut, the quietly charismatic force behind Upper Middle in South Melbourne, a new baguette and pizza spot that already feels like a neighbourhood favourite. Franck has spent his whole life in hospitality, from working in his dad’s restaurant as a teenager to decades on the floor in some of Melbourne’s most iconic venues. Now he’s finally opened a place of his own, built on warmth, good bread, and the kind of genuine service people are craving right now. We talked about the joy and chaos of starting a business, the art of keeping things simple, the personalities that make a great team, and what it means to create a space where people feel looked after. It’s a conversation that gives a clear sense of who Franck is and what he’s trying to build and I loved it.
There’s a lovely kind of magic when an old neighbourhood pub finds its heartbeat again, and that’s exactly what’s happened at the Angel of Malvern. After three quiet years, the doors are open, the locals are back, and the buzz is real. Downstairs it’s all about elevated pub classics done properly: brined schnitties, light calamari, housemade sausage rolls, steaks on the grill, while upstairs, a Mediterranean leaning wine bar and a cocktail lounge are getting ready to shine. I sat down with executive chef, Justin North, whose career has taken him from Wellington to Sydney to the kitchens of Le Manoir aux Quat’ Saisons under Raymond Blanc then back to Sydney. Justin has always been drawn to the idea of learning from the greats, not just collecting recipes but understanding the thinking behind them. It’s a philosophy that’s carried him through his own restaurants, his books, and now into this new chapter at the Angel, where he works closely with head chef Josh Rudd and a young team, bringing skill back into a pub kitchen in a way that feels both grounded and generous.
On a wet, gloomy Melbourne day, Ronin Omakase was unexpectedly warm. Despite its concrete walls, brutalist lines and high ceilings, the room is inviting with shelves lined with house made ferments; persimmon for desserts, wombok and white kimchi, citrus cheong and fruit vinegars quietly developing behind the counter. Liam Lee cooks directly in front of ten diners, tasting, adjusting and guiding the pace of the meal as it unfolds. After more than a decade cooking in Korea and Australia, including formative years feeding seventy soldiers three meals a day in the Korean army and leading kitchens at Studio Amaro, Firebird and Waterside Hotel, Liam is introducing his own version of Korean omakase to Melbourne. The menu reflects his childhood, training and values: deeply Korean in flavour, grounded in Victorian produce, and carefully balanced so that ten courses feel generous but never overwhelming. In our conversation, he spoke candidly about the pressures of Korean hospitality culture, the challenge of building a career while raising a young family, and his determination to create a kitchen, and an experience, defined by respect, consistency and care.
This week I got the train to Mitcham to visit Dutch Rules Distilling Co., a retro styled bar, working distillery and sat down with rising star chef Viveik Vinohoran, this year’s Young Chef of the Year. Surrounded by vinyl records, warm timber, and the quiet hum of a still out back, Viveik talked about shaping a menu that blends his Sri Lankan heritage with the classical French, Italian, and Japanese training that has defined his career. We explored how he builds dishes “flavoured with memory,” from lamb biryani sausages smoked over cherrywood to charcoal kissed eggplant with fiery pol sambal, and a cured trout entrée. Viveik shared his passion for working directly with farmers, his commitment to reducing waste, and the joy he finds in teaching his team to embrace bold spice. He also opened up about the whirlwind of pop ups, the intensity of competitions, and the moment he realised that cooking, not forensic science, was his true path.
When I sat down with Michael Conlon at O’Connell’s in South Melbourne, the paint was still fresh. There’s been a substantial refresh. New carpet, new upholstery, commissioned artworks, and a dining room that feels intentionally set apart. More like a restaurant you arrive at, even though you’ve come through the pub. But the bigger shift is in how he talks about the role of a pub like this: it’s not just somewhere to eat, but somewhere that has to work at different speeds. A quick midweek pint and something more considered on the weekend, all under the same roof. Michael comes from a group that understands pubs from the ground up. He’s worked across venues like Hobson’s Bay Hotel and the Flying Duck, places with their own histories. So, stepping into O’Connell’s isn’t about wiping the slate clean. It’s about reading the room, and the neighbourhood, properly. We talked about growing up on the Gold Coast, baking with his dad, cooking over fire, and the shift from being a good chef to becoming a good leader.
I visited Matt Forbes at Cobb Lane’s Yarraville headquarters, where he reflected on the long path from his early years in some of the UK’s most exacting kitchens to building a Melbourne bakery that’s grown from a single 25 kilo bag of flour to seven or eight tonnes a week. He talked about stepping away from restaurant life to create something of his own, and how that hands on, flavour first approach now shapes Cobb Lane’s newest outpost in the CBD, where dough is prepared in Yarraville each morning and baked on site so the smell of fresh bread drifts through the heritage lined space. Alongside shelves of sourdough, five seed baguettes, there are the pastries he loves to make, plus the cult favourites Cobb Lane is known for: peanut butter cookies, carrot cake and all the flaky, buttery things. This was a lovely conversation about instinct, community and the quiet satisfaction of creating something beautiful before the city wakes.
I always enjoy catching up with chefs to hear how they’re going, what they’re learning, and how their craft is evolving. And every couple of years, that brings me back to the Westin Melbourne to sit down with Executive Chef Apoorva Kunte. In the five years he’s been leading the hotel’s kitchens, he’s become known for his curiosity, his generosity with his team, and the thoughtful way he brings creativity, culture, and sustainability into everything he does. This conversation is another chance to check in on his journey; from navigating a post construction, fully revived hotel, to exploring native ingredients, to raising a very adventurous little eater at home. As always with Apoorva, it’s a warm, grounded chat that reflects the kind of chef and leader he’s become.
When you talk to Matt McConnell about food, hospitality and Bar Lourinhã, there is a quiet certainty and warmth that comes through immediately. Twenty years is a long time to do anything well, and Bar Lourinhã has done it with quiet confidence. Matt approaches this milestone with equal parts pride, humility and curiosity. A long, wandering journey through Spain and Portugal in the nineties inspired the bar on Little Collins Street which is built on warmth, simplicity and generosity. In this conversation, Matt reflects on that trip that changed everything, the discipline of consistency, and the enduring joy of feeding people well.
I sat down with James Gallagher at Enbarr on a lovely autumn afternoon. We talked about mythology, Irish foodways, and the arc of his life in this building; a pub he worked in for years and has now come full circle to own. Once we’d finished talking, I was lucky enough to eat the food we’d been discussing. I haven’t stopped thinking about the soda bread since, or the boxty, dishes that felt like a deliciously warm hug. The food at Enbarr draws from Irish tradition, preservation, and storytelling, filtered through experience and restraint, and elevated without losing its soul. I’m already planning my return.
Reaching 350 episodes feels a little surreal, and I couldn’t think of a better guest to mark the moment than someone I’ve spoken to before and genuinely admire. Sitting down again with Ian Ho at Yum Sing House reminded me why I love these conversations so much. Ian is one of those chefs who gives generously with his time, his stories, and his honesty and this time around, we went deeper than ever into the mindset behind the craft. In our first chat, we talked about food, creativity, and the energy of a busy kitchen. This time, we explored the inner workings of a chef’s psyche: how Ian navigates pressure, how he’s learning to draw boundaries, and how he’s growing his style of leadership while stepping into an already established team. He spoke openly about adapting to a new kitchen, finding his rhythm, and learning to let go of the things that don’t matter. We also talked about nostalgia, collaboration, and the evolution of Yum Sing House’s menu, including the radish cake he’s transformed from a humble staple into something personal and expressive. Ian’s reflections on creativity, constraint, and identity in food were thoughtful and grounded, and they made this milestone episode feel especially meaningful.
I visited Spaghetti Club just as everything was arriving. There were boxes everywhere, glasses and pots still wrapped, that slightly frantic but very exciting feeling of something about to begin. It already felt warm and full of personality, even mid unpacking. I sat down with head chef Michael Flemming to talk about what’s taking shape here: cooking over fire, handmade pasta, Italian family rituals, and the road that’s brought him to this opening. This is a conversation about food, internal pressure, leadership, as well as about trying to recreate the feeling of sitting around Nonno and Nonna’s table on a Monday night. Michael told me this was the first time he had done a chat like this and I think you’ll agree, he’s an absolute natural: easy, generous, and with a great radio voice to match.
When I first came across Raffaele Pelligra on Instagram, what struck me was his honesty. He was travelling, cooking, thinking deeply, asking questions, and sharing what he was learning and I really wanted to hear more. Now, I love a pull quote, those gems where people reveal their passion in such a perfect way. Honestly, every second sentence felt like gold in this chat, the kind you screenshot and save because it captures something bigger than food. Raffa had a lot to say about culture, creativity, community, and what it means to learn by doing. At one point, he asked me why I’d invited him onto the podcast at all. He said, “I’m not trained as a chef. I’m not a sous chef or a head chef.” And that is exactly why I wanted him here. This conversation isn’t about titles or hierarchy, it’s about perspective. It’s about what happens when you approach food as a traveller, a listener, and a human being who genuinely wants to understand where flavours come from and what food can do beyond the plate. This chat is a refreshing one. It’s about Sicily and Melbourne, tradition and fusion, adrenaline and meditation, stress and flow. It’s about learning in kitchens, markets, family homes halfway across the world and it’s about being open enough to change your mind along the way. Raffa is a young Sicilian traveller who loves to cook, and who is still very much becoming who he’s going to be. And I think that makes this conversation especially worth listening to.
From growing up in Port Melbourne, cooking alongside his Greek mother, to working across kitchens in Athens, France and Australia, Alex Meimetis’s story has been shaped by movement, patience and an unwavering love of food. It’s a story about learning by watching, earning trust over time, and understanding that leadership, especially in a kitchen, isn’t something you announce, it’s something you show. Now heading up Koi Toy, set within one of Victoria’s most historically complex sites, Pentridge Shopping Centre, Alex cooks in a way that reflects that path. We talked about learning on the job, moving between cultures and cuisines, bringing a team together, and the happiness that comes from creating something and seeing someone else enjoy it.
People often ask me what my favourite conversation with a chef has been, and I usually say that I don’t have one. I love them all. Everyone has a story to tell, and I feel genuinely privileged to be able to hear and share those stories, which makes it hard to single one out. But sometimes a conversation lingers. Sitting inside Greasy Zoes in Hurstbridge, after that gentle shift from city to rolling hills, it became clear. What Zoe Birch and her partner, Lachlan have created here, with intention, conviction, and deep connection to place, people, and produce is the result of years of quiet confidence and commitment. This was a glorious conversation about choosing risk, staying small, cooking honestly, and building a life that makes sense. And now if you ask me what my favourite conversation has been, I have an answer: Zoe Birch.
I went in for lunch at Little Black Pig and Sons before talking with David Lakhi, head chef and co-owner. After lunch we sat down in the inky and acoustically excellent dining room out the back, its walls hung with my favourite Klimt paintings. David has been cooking in Heidelberg for nine years now, quietly building a restaurant founded on seasonality, restraint, and a deep respect for cooking from the land. His work draws on Italian cucina povera, shaped by how he grew up eating, what he learned in the Italian kitchens that trained him, and the way he cooks now. It’s deliberate, thoughtful, and grounded in care for produce, craft, and the people who come through the door. This was such an enjoyable conversation, and it is easy to see why Little Black Pig and Sons holds such a fierce place in the hearts of the diners that have eaten there.
Wine Festival, after circling this conversation for months. A boodle brunch is based on a traditional Filipino way of eating: food laid out generously on banana leaves, eaten together, by hand. It’s casual, communal, and built around connection rather than ceremony, and for Morris, it’s a reflection of how he grew up eating. The brunch was also a collaboration with Filipino food content creator Abi Marquez, for whom the day marked a personal milestone; her first time cooking service in a professional restaurant kitchen. Morris was clearly proud to be part of that moment, guiding her through the intensity of cooking for a room full of people while watching her passion translate from screen to service. The food stayed true to its Filipino roots, with gentle nods to Australian produce, making the whole experience feel generous and thoughtful. Morris moves between kitchens and cultures with ease. He cooks modern Italian at Buono in Parkdale, while CMD Supper Club gives him the freedom to explore Filipino flavours, techniques and stories on his own terms. Talking to Morris at the end of the service, what came through most clearly was his gentleness and generosity as well as a genuine pleasure in cooking for and alongside others. Now, I do just need to say I chatted to Morris while the café was being packed up, so there’s tables being dragged across the floor, and excited post-event chatter and occasional shrieks. So it’s absolutely real and you are now very much a part of it!
After a few years working across Australia, Asia and London, Maltese chef Jonathan Brincat went back home to Malta to cook his own food, his own way. He opened Noni in Valletta, a restaurant built on the flavours he grew up with and refined through years in other kitchens. Six years on, it holds a Michelin star. Noni is about Maltese food, but not as you might expect. Dishes that start with memory and familiarity are reworked with technique and precision. The flavour stays front and centre. The rest follows. Jonathan is in Melbourne for the Food and Wine Festival, bringing a version of Noni to Maha using Australian produce. It’s the first time a Maltese chef has been part of the global series, and a chance to put Malta, and his take on it, on the table here.
Elias Salomonsson is firmly at the helm of Circl, continuing to shape a kitchen that leans Nordic in philosophy but grounded in Australian produce. I’ve spoken to Elias before here and this time, he’s joined by Derek Kim, former head chef of Tetsuya’s and now leading the kitchen at Garaku, part of Prefecture 48 in Sydney. Derek’s cooking carries the precision and discipline of Japanese technique, shaped by years in one of Australia’s most exacting kitchens. Together, for the Melbourne Food and Wine Festival, they’re not trying to meet in the middle. This is a side-by-side conversation. Scandinavian restraint alongside Japanese structure, both anchored in produce, both underpinned by a shared belief that kitchens work best when the people in them do too. It’s less about fusion and more about flow. Two distinct voices, one menu that moves between them.
Sam Field is head chef at Molly Rose Brewing in Collingwood, but his way into kitchens started much earlier as a 13-year-old kitchen porter in England, working after school and learning by watching. Since then he has cooked in pubs, fine dining venues, cafés and now one of Melbourne’s more interesting brewery kitchens, where the menu leans European by way of local produce and very drinkable beer. Sam is thoughtful about kitchens, about the culture inside them as much as the food that comes out. He still carries the discipline of fine dining, even if these days it shows up in something as deceptively simple as a very well considered schnitzel.
George Calombaris is back in Melbourne with Auto Greek, a pop-up at Bar Yarra in the Ovolo Hotel in South Yarra. A week in, the room is full of familiar faces and new ones too. For George, the project feels a little like bringing the band back together. In this conversation he reflects on nearly three decades in hospitality and what he still believes Melbourne can be as a food city. He also talks about the food itself. Neo-classic Greek cooking that is simple, generous and deeply personal. Think watermelon with feta, lamb chops over wood fire and vegetables grown from heirloom seeds. George is thoughtful, philosophical and still completely animated by the power of a good plate of food to make people happy.
Axel Archenti arrived at Bottega in 2017 on a working holiday visa and never left. He broke down three goats at his trial, worked his way through the kitchen, and became head chef in 2023. It’s his first head chef role, and he has embraced it. Axel cooks Italian food with an Australian accent, celebrating local produce and native ingredients. The menu is seasonal, but ever evolving, practical, and grounded in the reality of a busy dining room that fills fast before curtain-up at the nearby theatres. Axel talks thoughtfully about simplicity, about knowing when not to experiment, and about building a kitchen culture where people actually like coming to work. This was a generous conversation, and I loved every minute of it.
Hospitality is a team sport. You feel it most on a busy service, when everyone’s tired, slightly wired, and relying on each other to get through the shift. Jean Baptiste Dumas, JB to his friends knows that world well. He worked at France Soir for years, and noticed something familiar: the same people who thrive in service also light up around sport. In 2019, he turned that overlap into something practical. A five-a-side soccer tournament for hospitality venues. It began as a kick about in a Melbourne park. It’s now the Hospitality Cup, with tournaments across Australia and the US. The Hospitality Cup has united teams from some of Australia’s most iconic venues and groups, including Rae’s, Icebergs, Aria, Merivale, the Scott Pickett Group, Attica, DOC Pizza, Freddie’s Pizza and the Reymond Group.
I love getting to check back in with someone I’ve spoken to a few years on. When I last spoke to Aidan Robinson from Chic de Partie Cake Couturier in 2022, he was figuring out life after Dinner by Heston. Now his cakes have found their way to Lady Gaga, Chappell Roan and Yungblud, yet the operation is still just him, a spreadsheet and beautiful buttercream. We talk about what the in-between years actually looked like: three-day bakes, clients who want childhood memories encapsulated in cake, and why fondant superheroes are a firm no. There’s also the unglamorous side: rising food costs, Valentine’s Day roulette, and literally doing everything on your own. It’s a relaxed catch up about craft, taste and the reality behind the polish.
I sat down with Aitor Jeronimo Orive, who’s in Melbourne right now for a pop-up at Nobody’s Baby in South Yarra. He was born in Madrid, raised in Australia, trained in Valencia, and went on to work in Michelin-starred kitchens in Spain, the Basque Country, London including Nerua, Mugaritz, and The Fat Duck before running his own one-star restaurant in Singapore, Basque Kitchen by Aitor. His cooking is grounded in Basque home food: charcoal, seafood, stews, big cuts of meat, and that’s what he’s cooking here. We talked about growing up between countries, his family’s cooking, life in high-pressure kitchens, and what brought him back to Melbourne.
Nick Deligiannis and I last spoke almost three years ago at Audrey’s in Sorrento, in the thick of summer service and seafood season. Now he’s at Bar Sophia in Glen Iris, a Greek wine bar built around one key limitation that’s also its best feature: a woodfire oven and no stoves. We talk about how that shapes everything, from menu thinking to prep discipline, plus his recent time in Greece, the Athens Riviera influence, and his focus on simple food finished with bold dressings, freshness and acidity, including house-made halloumi made from scratch each week.
Ben John is the chef behind BistroX at The StandardX in Fitzroy. He trained in Aotearoa New Zealand, came up through some of Naarm’s most exacting kitchens, and has led teams at places where standards are high and pressure is constant. At BistroX, he’s building something deliberately more relaxed: a neighbourhood bistro inside a hotel that doesn’t really feel like a hotel at all. We talk about suppliers and seasons, teaching young chefs properly, breaking down whole animals, and what leadership looks like now compared with when he was coming up. We also talk about balance, longevity, and how to stay generous in a demanding industry. I really enjoyed this conversation. Ben is thoughtful, grounded and deeply committed to the craft.
It’s been a few years since I last saw Punit, back when Elichi was still open in Black Rock and the world and hospitality felt very different. In the time since, he’s lived what feels like several careers’ worth of experience: closing a restaurant, cooking through lockdown with his family, stepping into senior hotel roles, winning AHA Chef of the Year last year, and quietly building the foundations for something deeply personal. That something is Bombay Meri Jaan, Punit’s Richmond restaurant and love letter to Mumbai. Not the shorthand version of Indian food most of us think we know, but a layered, regional, memory-driven expression of western Indian cooking shaped by coastal spices, street snacks, family recipes, and the rhythms of a city that never stops moving. In this conversation, Punit talks about slowing down, learning when to step back, and what it means to cook food that actually reflects who you are. We cover hotel kitchens and home cooking, leadership and letting go, butter chicken (of course), and why some of the most important dishes are the ones tied to trains, fishermen, and late-night streets.
I first spoke to Esca Khoo a few years ago. Since then, he’s travelled, cooked and learned his way across Southeast Asia. What’s stayed constant is his generosity and the size of his heart, something that shows up as much in the way he runs a kitchen as in the food he cooks. Now he’s back in Melbourne, leading the kitchen at Tyga on Koornang Road in Carnegie. I came to the opening, and could not wait to go back, largely because I couldn’t stop thinking about the wood-fired bone marrow with crab sambal and roti. This conversation picks up where the last one left off and I loved it every bit as much as I loved the first.
Moondrop has only just opened, but it already knows exactly who it is: a Shanghai-1920s fever dream on Gertrude Street, all low light, Mahjong tiles and jazz-era swagger, it’s the kind of bar that looks effortless. Of course, it isn’t. When a venue with a big past goes dark, it leaves behind more than a fitted-out bar. It leaves pressure. The easy move is to inherit the room and keep moving. Chef Jacob Muoio along with co-owners, Steve Chan and Jesse Kourmouzis chose the harder option with the space that was previously The Everleigh: strip it back, repaint the mood, and refuse to wear someone else’s suit. That’s where this conversation starts, before moving quickly into the good stuff: cocktails built on fabulous puns and excellent balance, food designed to keep you drinking happily past midnight, and a working philosophy that favours calm, curiosity and not being a dick. Jacob talks about learning Chinese ingredients in real time, juggling Sleepy’s and Moondrop, and raising a young family alongside opening a new bar.
What happens when a chef wanders off the line and into biotechnology? In George Peppou’s case, you get Vow, a company growing meat in a new way, not instead of animals, but with far fewer of them. Cultured meat starts with a tiny sample of animal cells, nurtured in a stainless-steel tank the way yeast is nurtured into bread or grapes into wine. Feed those cells well, let them multiply into muscle, fat and connective tissue, and in a matter of weeks you have meat without needing to raise whole flocks or herds. It opens questions most of us have never had to ask. What if meat could be produced with less land, less resource intensity, and a fraction of the animals? What if foie gras could be indulgent without the ethical weight? What if the future of meat is less about taking something away, and more about curiosity, flavour and abundance? George is chasing a future where meat is abundant, sustainable, and joy-giving. I wanted to know how he got here, what it all means, and what it looks like on the plate.
I sat down with Culinary Creative Director Michael Stolley and Head Chef Hung Hoa Duong at Disuko, the new terracotta-glowing, disco-ball-speckled takeover of the old Madame Brussels space. Michael is the big-picture force, the one thinking in concepts, mood, music and menus, while Hoa brings a grounded precision shaped by Nobu, Kisumé and a long, steady engagement with Japanese technique. Together they’ve built a venue where omakase discipline meets Shibuya-fun dining, where a fillet-o-ebi sando with prawn katsu, tartare, and American cheese sits happily alongside chicken wings painted in black garlic schmaltz and an udon carbonara. They’re honest about the grind, the joy, the burnout and the strange compulsion that keeps chefs in kitchens long after logic tells them to leave.
There’s something genuinely uplifting about sitting down with someone who’s spent over forty years in hospitality and still lights up when they talk about food. That’s Darryl Hand. He’s been in kitchens since the days of Hilton Melbourne’s grand dining rooms in the ’80s, cooked for queens and rock stars, and seen hotel dining evolve from silver service to share plates and open kitchens. But what’s most striking is that he still exudes pure, uncomplicated joy when he talks about cooking. He’s the Executive Chef overseeing not one but two new hotels in the heart of Melbourne: Hotel Indigo and Holiday Inn on Little Collins and yet he is still the guy who gets excited about discovering a different kind of prawn in Sicily and wishing we could get them here.
Francesca Giorgi Monfort didn’t set out to become Melbourne’s most interesting pie maker. The Swiss-born chef’s path has been anything but straightforward: from PR and art galleries in London to restaurant management in Europe, and finally to the kitchen where she found her true calling. After working at Farmer’s Daughters, Marion and heading the kitchen at Noisy Ritual, Fran decided to do things her own way. What began as an experiment with puff pastry has become Frankie’s Pie Shop, a cult favourite at the Carlton Farmers’ Market known for pies with personality. Her cauliflower cheese pie, inspired by a Tesco recipe but elevated with charred vegetables and proper technique, is a perfect example of her ethos: simple done brilliantly. For now, she’s beginning a residency at Superette on Sydney Road in Brunswick, selling two flavours of pies and two sausage rolls every day. I met Fran at Superette and am especially grateful for her patience. It was my first video podcast, and she couldn’t have been more generous as we talked about pastry that gets more rest than she does, the quiet resilience behind Frankie’s, and her belief that vegetarian pies can, and should, be far more than vegetable stew.
Sincero in Malvern is the second restaurant from chef Mirco Speri and the team behind Buono in Parkdale. While Buono captures the easy warmth of a bayside ristorante, Sincero brings a quieter confidence to Glenferrie Road. Open since April 2024, it’s already known for what Mirco calls Italian my way: familiar flavours, local produce, and the occasional twist; like seaweed spaghetti with Moreton Bay bugs and blood orange jelly. Mirco has spent three decades cooking around the world, from Michelin-starred kitchens in Europe to Melbourne’s evolving dining scene. At Sincero, that experience shows in food that feels both grounded and instinctive. He’s not chasing trends or nostalgia; he’s cooking with sincerity, curiosity, and the kind of calm assurance that only comes from doing something you truly love. buymeacoffee.com/conversationwithachef
Today I’m chatting with Anuj Sanghi, who’s opened Bar Mercado on Peel Street, right across from the Queen Victoria Market. The name Mercado means “market” in Spanish, and that’s really the heart of what Anuj has created, a place for people to gather, share food, drink, stories, and cultures. Every morning he walks over to the market to hand-pick his produce, chatting with the traders and letting what he finds inspire the day’s menu. The food at Bar Mercado is a vibrant mix of South American, Spanish and Latin flavours; think wood-fired chorizo with chimichurri, oysters with chilli and lime granita, slow-cooked lamb sandwiches and churros with dark chocolate. It’s not fine dining, but you can feel the finesse of someone who’s worked at places like Maha, Rockpool and Entrecôte. Anuj moved from Delhi to Melbourne to study at Le Cordon Bleu and never looked back. We talked about how his mum inspired his love of food, what he’s learned from his mentors, and how he’s building something that feels like community.
Atta in Albert Park has quietly and confidently become one of Melbourne’s most enduring modern Indian restaurants. It’s been ten years since it opened, which is no small feat in this city, and behind it all is chef and owner Harry Dhanjal. Harry has spent that decade redefining how we think about Indian cuisine, balancing innovation and tradition, respecting the roots of each dish while bringing them to life in a contemporary, elegant way. Atta isn’t fusion, as Harry says, it’s modern Indian: thoughtful, beautiful, and deeply grounded in flavour and culture. We talked about the early days of Atta and what it took to get people to see Indian food differently, the fine line between innovation and tradition, and why for Harry, being a chef is as much about discipline and joy as it is about technique.
When I walked into Aegli in South Melbourne, the first thing I noticed was the light: soft, golden, everywhere. Then I met Ioannis Kasidokostas, and it makes even more sense. Aegli was a goddess, Yanni tells me: elegant, dazzling, radiant, and that’s exactly what he’s built here. The space, the food, the feeling. Yanni doesn’t see hospitality as a job. He calls it a culture. It’s about philoxenia, the Greek art of making a stranger feel like they’ve come home. It’s there in how he talks about his team, the way he refuses to rush a service, and the stories woven through every dish. We talked about patience, trust, and what it means to build something that glows from the inside out. We talked about a raw prawn and nectarine dish that started as a lesson from his fisherman grandfather, a 90-day kopanisti that’s worth the wait, and a philosophy that Greek cuisine doesn’t need to reinvent itself, it just needs to remember where it came from. Aegli means light, but it’s also warmth. And I think that’s exactly what Yanni is serving. This was a wonderful conversation and I feel all the better for having met Yanni and chatted with him.
Today I’m chatting with Rachel Miyazaki from Niji Sweets. If you’ve walked through Queen Vic Market lately, you might have stopped in your tracks at a stall that looks more like a jewellery counter than a lolly stand: trays of shimmering kohakutou, those jewel-like Japanese sweets that catch the light and your imagination all at once. Rachel trained as a pastry chef, working everywhere from LuxBite to Marvel Stadium, but with Niji Sweets she and her friend Yiying are doing something entirely different. We talked about how a childhood love of baking, a detour through computer studies, and a trip to Japan all converged on these edible crystals. From the patient, days-long process of crystallising agar to the thrill of seeing someone’s face light up when they bite through that crunchy shell into soft jelly, Rachel is bringing something rare and beautiful to Melbourne and I am very happy to have had the opportunity to sit down with her and hear all about it.
When Luke’s Bánh Mì opened in the CBD, the response was extraordinary. Queues ran down Little Bourke Street, and more than 1,200 bánh mì were sold that first day. In fact, customers were averaging two or three each, so the real number was far higher. I went to the preview and then couldn’t resist coming back the very next day just to see it all unfold. I even filmed the line, and for the first time ever, something I posted went viral. But the real story is bigger than one opening. Luke Vu is a third-generation Vietnamese baker whose journey began in his family’s bakery in Ho Chi Minh City, with memories of wood-fired bread and early morning deliveries on his bike. After moving to Melbourne and completing a university degree, Luke still couldn’t shake the pull of the bakery. The lure of bread, pâté and pickles was too strong, and he soon set up his own shop, first in Reservoir, then in Moonee Ponds and South Melbourne, where the bánh mì quickly became local fixtures. That history, and the hard work behind every detail, made the leap into the city all the more powerful.
Collingwood has no shortage of bars, but Babines stands out, thanks to the two Juliens behind it, Julien Pascal and Julien Wurtlin. When I first ducked in not long after they opened a year and a half ago (on the recommendation of a French friend, naturally), I was hooked: the cocktails, the anchovy toasts, the way the place already felt like it belonged. Since then, the pair have kept shaping and reshaping the space themselves into something great; renovations, late nights, a little trial and error. What started as a cocktail bar has grown into a neighbourhood dining room, where you can order salt cod fritters with that sharp little Caribbean sauce, or a Victorian hanger steak that rivals anything in France. The drinks list shifts with the seasons, equal parts French roots and Melbourne edge, and the late-night kitchen has made Babines a magnet for the industry crowd. I sat down with both Juliens to hear how they pulled it off: the DIY headaches, the Collingwood quirks, and why taking their time was the best decision they made.
I’ve spoken to Sunny Gilbert at Melbourne’s Hofbrauhaus before and it was such a delight to catch up with him again, especially at this time of year. He’d just flown back from Munich, where Oktoberfest really is as big, loud and joyful as everyone says: ten beer tents, each crammed with 10,000 people, steins thudding on tables, bands lifting whole crowds onto benches. Back in Melbourne, at Hofbrauhaus, Sunny and his team are keeping that spirit alive all October: bigger bands, stronger beer, stein-holding contests, and plenty of schnitzel and knuckle to go around. Get your Dirndls and Lederhosen on and let’s go! Now, I have a spring head cold, so I apologise for my voice. I’d like to think it sounds resonant and alluring, but I am fairly certain it just sounds like I have a cold. The show must go on.
Lorcán Kan has one of those reputations that precedes him, not in the loud, headline-grabbing way, but in the quiet way that matters more. Mention his name to other chefs and their response is usually the same: “He’s such a lovely guy.” Kan, now head chef at Etta in Brunswick East, carries that reputation with the same understated composure he brings to food. Born in Donegal to an Irish-Malaysian family and in Melbourne since he was one, Kan grew up resisting his dad’s Malaysian cooking (hot dogs seemed more appealing at the time) before circling back to it as comfort food. His path has been anything but linear: New York fine dining, German art studios, years of travel guided by one-way tickets and kitchen doors that opened when he knocked. He’s studied food science to answer the “why” questions, explored fermentation before it was fashionable, and learned that creative control is as much about restraint as it is about freedom. At Etta, his cooking sits at that intersection; comforting but restless, grounded but curious, waste-aware but playful. Talking with Kan feels like talking to someone who still finds wonder in the work. He’s calm, thoughtful, and very much the real deal.
I’m upstairs at Eleni’s Kitchen in Yarraville with Eleftheria Amanatidis. The room feels like a taverna: a criss cross of dark beams, low light, and the sense that food is at the centre of everything. Eleftheria has captured not just the dishes of her Yiayias and Papous, but the atmosphere too: the smells, the rituals, the family gathered around a table. Hospitality runs in Eleftheria’s blood: her family opened Yarraville’s first Greek restaurant opposite the Sun Theatre in the ’70s, back when Greek films screened on weekends and the jukebox played until late. That history of feeding Melbourne’s Greek community is part of what she carries forward now.Her recently launched book Ela na Fáme (Come and Eat) is both a collection of recipes and a love letter to that heritage; filo rolled thin with patience, pork and cabbage stew simmering on a winter’s day, and the call that anchored her childhood: “Come and eat.” While we were talking, her Yiayia Eleni wandered upstairs to look at old photos, a reminder that in Greek kitchens, the past is always at the table.
When I first spoke to Kyle Nicol back in late 2020, he was head chef at Rascal, and Melbourne was lurching in and out of lockdown. He was already thinking deeply about sustainability in kitchens, not just in terms of produce, but of chefs themselves. Five years on, Kyle’s covered a lot of ground: Lilac, Hazel, a string of pop-ups, consulting, foraging, and even a side project in charcuterie. He’s also hit burnout, had knee surgery, and taken a step back to reset. What hasn’t changed is his generosity, both in cooking and in spirit. Kyle’s the kind of chef other chefs call when they need help, the one who’ll share knowledge, jump on a service, or roll pasta at home just because. We caught up to talk about balance, identity in hospitality, and what it means to give your all without giving yourself away.
Brooke is a pastry chef with a flair for precision and a competitive streak that’s taken her from Sydney kitchens to the World Food Championships in Indianapolis, where her buttermilk cheesecake earned her third place in the world for dessert. She’s now preparing to return in October to take out the top spot all while juggling recipe testing, private chef gigs, and her educational platform Capture the Chef as well as packing her own sugar for the competition because, as she puts it, “Australian sugar tastes better.” Talking to her when she was in Melbourne, I got the sense of someone who thrives on high stakes but carries it lightly: meticulous yet unflappable, and deeply in love with sharing food and technique with anyone curious enough to watch.
The name Odette House came to Jojo Parkinson at 4.30 in the morning. Later, she discovered it meant “prosperous,” which felt right for a venue with three distinct levels: an all-day café downstairs, Uday restaurant upstairs, and a rooftop bar with a view of the city. Uday means “sunrise” in Sanskrit, a nod to new beginnings. Over her ceremonial-grade Matcha on a Cloud, Jojo spoke about building a neighbourhood space, steering clear of the word “fusion,” and keeping a loyal team by her side for nearly a decade.
Joe Vargetto has turned his restaurant into a truffle wonderland. Step inside Mr Bianco’s little bar, Bianchetto right now and you’ll find moss, fairy lights, oak leaves, and, if you’re lucky, a truffle-hunting spaniel on duty. Some chefs talk about truffles as a luxury. Joe talks about them as if they’re alive, creatures that seduce trees, steal nutrients and transform the soil they grow in, but he’ll also describe them as magical. He’ll tell you they work just as well on a toasted cheese sandwich as they do on a tasting menu. There are plenty of restaurants in Melbourne celebrating truffle season, but only Joe thought to bring the farm indoors. I always love catching up with Joe. He’s so generous with what he shares, and he really wants to share everything. We roamed the restaurant, taking in the enchanted forest in Bianchetto, which means white truffle in Italian, the Staub range of ‘white truffle’ crockery Joe is working with for this venture and upstairs to see the photo from 2001 when he took part in the Bocuse d’Or, encouraged by his friend and mentor, Philippe Mouchel, and of which one of the sponsors was Staub. Long story short, it is all very serendipitous and absolutely charming.
In Carnegie, there’s a little patisserie turning out some of the most beautiful cakes in Melbourne. Tommy Er’s T6 Patisserie has been open just over a year and already has a loyal following, very definitely including me. Tommy’s pastries are French in style but layered with the flavours he grew up with in Southeast Asia. There’s pandan sponge with custard inspired by his great-grandmother’s onde-onde, mango lime cheesecake, glossy, precise cakes that look almost too perfect to eat - definitely eat them - and a Hazelnut Rocher cake that tastes exactly like the chocolate it’s named after; a crowd favourite and Tommy’s personal pick. Tommy has been in kitchens since he was 13, learning both Malaysian and French techniques, and still tests and tweaks every creation until it’s exactly how he wants it. It turns out that Tommy’s secret ingredient isn’t pandan or chocolate or caramel, but patience.
The drive into The Dining Room At Lancemore Lindenderry in Red Hill takes you past rows of vines and manicured gardens that open out to 38 acres of rolling lawns, a tennis court, wood-fired hot tubs and 41 elegant rooms. It’s the sort of place you can settle into for the weekend or drive down for lunch and wish you’d booked a room. In the kitchen is executive chef Nick McGonigal. He started cooking at Red Scooter Events before moving into Melbourne institution Cecconi’s, before crossing the world to spend two years as chef de partie at Brett Graham's three-Michelin-starred restaurant The Ledbury. Back in Australia, he cooked at Bentley Restaurant and Bar in Sydney, before moving home to Melbourne and working at Society then Paringa Estate. Ten years after his apprenticeship, he’s leading the kitchen at Lindenderry. We talked about the move from winter to spring, a citrus and lavender dessert served with a burst of liquid nitrogen, the balance between creativity and spreadsheets, and why the story behind an ingredient matters to him.
I had dinner at The George Hotel in South Melbourne the night before this conversation, and I’m still thinking about that prawn toast. The parma came on the bone, the romesco on the pumpkin was deeply smoky, and the vibe was spot on. Fire crackling, carpet slightly retro, and classic pub food done with care, generosity, and just the right amount of zhuzh. Usually on this podcast I speak to chefs, but hospitality goes far beyond the kitchen. My guest today is someone who’s been quietly transforming the pub scene across Victoria. Scott Connolly is a publican, but not the kind who simply owns the building and turns up for the soft launch. He’s a former actor and musician who’s worked every inch of the floor and now oversees venues like the Healesville Hotel, the Orrong, and most recently, The George. We talked about pub culture, people, parmas, carpets, and what it means to be a custodian of these places that mean so much to so many.
Two years after our first conversation, Pawan Dutta has made the kitchen at The Royce Hotel entirely his own. The Showroom Bar still gleams. The menu is bolder, with flavours that travel from Peru to France and back again, yet nothing feels forced. He’s as hands-on as ever, still on the pans, still chasing that perfect balance of craft and instinct. We talk about how the team has evolved, the trust that keeps the kitchen running smoothly, and why hotel restaurants like this deserve to be taken seriously.
Stéphane Nguyen is the founder of the French Cooking Academy alongside his wife, Kate. Stephane has built a global following by teaching classic French techniques in a way that actually makes sense: clear, methodical, and with a real focus on understanding the why behind each step. But it didn’t start there. Stéphane moved to Australia, missed French food, tried to make a Boeuf Bourguignon and realised he actually had no idea how. So he taught himself, using proper French culinary textbooks, and documented the whole process. What started as a personal project is now a full-blown online cooking school with thousands of students from around the world. We talked about everything from confidence in the kitchen to why a sieve might be the most underrated tool you own. We talked about how the Academy came to be, what it means to build confidence in the kitchen, and why the simplest dishes are often the hardest to get right.
If Pepe’s Italian & Liquor is all swagger and spectacle: snow machines, themed decor, and a big personality, then Pepe’s Parlour offers something quieter and more composed. The original venue opened in 2019 in a former synagogue on Exhibition Street, serving Italian American classics in a space that leans into old-school New York glamour. Next door, Pepe’s Parlour channels the elegance of a London members’ club, softened by a Melbourne sensibility: martinis, soft light, hand-painted tomato murals. It’s also where Antonio Loffredo is doing quietly brilliant things in the kitchen. Antonio grew up in Campania and then the Amalfi Coast and started making pizza in his father’s shop at 16. He has worked across just about every section of a kitchen since arriving in Melbourne more than a decade ago. Now head chef at the Parlour, he’s turning out focaccia made from a slow-fermented dough, fresh pasta, and light, lunch-friendly plates that still manage to feel generous. We talked about the emotional pull of food, why he won’t use bread with a 15-ingredient label, and how a baking course during lockdown completely reshaped the way he cooks.
It’s not every day you get to have a chat in a former ship’s chandlery from the 1860s, but that’s exactly where I found myself with Dan Livingstone, chef, self-taught cook, ex-pop songwriter, and co-owner of The Chandlery in Port Melbourne. I first met Dan at one of his collaborative events a few weeks ago, a night of incredible wine, thoughtful food, and genuine connection. In this episode, we talk about how his creative path led from music studios to fire-fuelled kitchens, the philosophy behind zero-waste catering, and how vegetables cooked over flames can be just as thrilling as meat. We also talk about the realities of running events, building community, and finding meaning in the stories behind every ingredient. Dan’s approach is generous, grounded and deeply human.
Mike McEnearney doesn’t follow trends. He follows his gut, his growers, and the seasons. He’s worked in some of the world’s toughest kitchens, cooked for Damien Hirst, and lived off the land in rural Wales. He opened Kitchen by Mike in a converted factory canteen in Sydney’s CBD, another Kitchen by Mike at the International Airport and will soon open one in the National Gallery of Australia in Canberra. He has been the Creative Director of Carriageworks Farmers Market for the last ten years and now brings that same produce-led simplicity to From Here by Mike at Melbourne’s newly opened 1 Hotel. His approach is thoughtful, grounded and refreshingly direct, much like the man himself.
You can tell a lot about a chef by how they talk about repetition. For Aaron, it’s not tedious, it’s essential. He grew up in Perth, found his culinary footing in a small seafood kitchen, and went on to cook in some of London’s most intense and celebrated restaurants. Now heading up the kitchen at O’Connell’s Hotel in South Melbourne, Aaron brings with him the calm authority of someone who’s done the hard yards. Aaron’s career spans Michelin-starred restaurants, big-name mentors like Jason Atherton and Shane Osborn, and some of Melbourne’s best-known venues like Cumulous, Scott Pickett’s restaurants as well as Oakridge Winery. He still keeps recipe notebooks, mostly lists of ingredients, and draws inspiration from everywhere: books, produce, places, memory. And after all these years, he still genuinely loves being in the kitchen. That short, sharp burst of service? It’s where he feels most at home.
II.II.VI is freshly open and in soft launch mode at the time of recording, which means the team is still getting into the rhythm of service and the full menu isn’t live yet. The grills haven’t yet been installed, which is significant, because open flame cooking is central to what head chef Haitham Richani has planned. I sat down with Haitham and executive chef Kerry Lam to talk about the thinking behind the restaurant. Haitham has worked in both front and back of house, and that range of experience has shaped everything; from kitchen layout to the way the team works together. Kerry is also behind Ministry of Crab upstairs, and at II.II.VI, he’s given Haitham the reins to create something new. We talked about designing kitchens that actually make sense, the role of team input, how seasonal produce drives creativity, and why a notebook can be as valuable as a knife roll.
This week I sat down with Alberto Borghi of Del Bocia Butter, although calling it “butter” barely covers it. This is butter with soul, butter with story. I first came across Alberto’s work at DOC in St Kilda, where a seaweed butter and a very memorable Alfredo pasta got me hooked. I imagined the maker must be an old Italian man with a wooden churn…and then I found Alberto on Instagram. Not an old man. No wooden churn in sight. But every bit as traditional as you’d hope, and just as passionate. From 30 kilos a week made in a shared kitchen with a planetary mixer to importing and restoring vintage machines from the Dolomites, Alberto’s journey is full of energy, joy, and a stubborn devotion to quality. He talks about butter like some people talk about wine or poetry. And I’m here for it.
Giorgio Linguanti arrived in Australia from Sicily with no English, no cheese-making experience, and no plans to start a dairy empire, and yet, here we are. That’s Amore Cheese, the company he founded, is now beloved across the country and beyond our shores for its fresh, authentic Italian cheeses, from silky ricotta to smoky scamorza, and of course, the show-stealing burrata. Giorgio introduced burrata to the Australian market and has built his business and his reputation on passion, perseverance, and a very good palate. I last saw Giorgio at the launch of his Burrata book, the first and only book in the world dedicated to this pillowy, cream-filled cheese. It’s not just a collection of recipes, though those are glorious; it’s also a deep dive into the backstory of burrata; its history, its evolution, and the politics of production in its birthplace, Puglia. I sat down with Giorgio in his Thomastown HQ, to talk about how the book came together, what happened when he went looking for burrata’s origins, and why he believes obstacles are often just gentle nudges in a better direction.
Dario Di Clerico’s culinary story began at just 14, when he first stepped into a professional kitchen in his native Italy. Since then, he’s forged a path defined by talent, grit and unshakeable passion. He trained under the youngest (at the time) Michelin-starred chef in the UK, refining his skills in high-pressure kitchens and learning what it takes to lead with precision and creativity. When he moved to Australia, Dario brought that same energy and expertise with him, quickly making his mark on the local food scene. Now at the helm of Cannoleria and the Burrata Bar, he’s not only delighting diners with playful takes on Italian classics, he’s also inspiring a new generation of chefs. In this episode, we talk about his deep respect for tradition, his inventive streak (yes, there has been a Vegemite and parmesan cannolo), and what it means to build something meaningful in the ever-evolving world of food.
When Ian Ho was a kid growing up in Malaysia, he dreamed of being a firefighter, not for the danger or the drama, but because he lived next to a fire station and from what he could see, they got to play sport all day. Fast forward a few decades and, while there are fewer games and more spreadsheets, he is still putting out fires, in a metaphorical sense in day-to-day life in the kitchen. Ian's culinary journey has taken him through some impressive venues, including Lamaros, Copycat and Taxi Kitchen where he worked alongside the legendary Tony Twitchett. Now, he’s the executive chef overseeing a diverse trio of venues: Anada, Arcadia Café and The Rochey. It’s a full plate; literally and figuratively. What stood out most from talking to Ian is his ability to balance creativity with practicality. He leads with clear systems but brings a quiet warmth to the kitchen, adapting his style to suit the team around him. There’s a calm, clever energy about him and he strikes me as someone who genuinely cares about doing food well, without fuss or ego.
Step into Bar Magnolia on Sydney Road and you're wrapped in it straight away: the low golden light, the easy murmur of good conversation, the quiet thrill of something thoughtful happening behind the bar. Co-owners chef Mia Coady-Plumb and winemaker Lawrence Scanlon have created a space where classic French technique flickers with wit, soul, and a little rebellion. Mia’s food, which she calls "irreverent" French, honours tradition but never feels bound by it, each plate carrying a beautiful, unexpected spark. Before stepping into Melbourne's dining scene, Mia sharpened her skills in some of Sydney’s most celebrated two- and three-hatted kitchens, later moving to Melbourne to help open much-loved Town Mouse before bringing her talents to Cutler and Co, Anchovy, Lune, and Smith and Daughters, amongst others. I pulled up a stool at the bar to talk with Mia about Magnolia, about instinct and flavour, and about why a little mischief might just be tradition's best friend. We also talked about the reality of chef life and running a small business. This was an incredible chat, and I loved every minute of it.
Guillaume Zika began his career in some of France’s most revered Michelin-starred kitchens, honing his craft in Paris and the south of France before moving on to Per Se in New York and Hibiscus in London. Australia became the next chapter, first as head chef at the iconic Cottage Point Inn in the Ku-ring-gai Chase National Park on Sydney’s northern edge, then as Executive Chef at Burleigh Pavilion, where he led a team of 60. Today, Guillaume is channelling his focus into Chef Notepad, the software he designed to streamline recipe communication, food costing, food waste and team management, a system built by a chef who understands exactly what kitchens need. Never one to shy away from a challenge, he's also set himself the ambitious personal goal of running 2025 kilometres in 2025. I very happily sat down to chat with Guillaume on a rooftop in Prahran as the sun set over the city.
Today, I’m speaking with Kate and Bryan, the team behind Ciao Cielo in Port Melbourne. We talk about how they adapted through Covid, how their vision for the restaurant has evolved, and what it takes to keep things moving in a fast-changing hospitality world. From sourcing ingredients to managing a busy service, it’s clear their passion for what they do hasn’t wavered. I first visited Ciao Cielo back in 2018, not long after they opened in their new home, the beautifully restored Port Melbourne courthouse. There was something immediately striking about the space: grand but welcoming, with a sense of purpose and care behind every detail. That balance of warmth and precision seems to echo what Kate and Bryan aim for in the kitchen and on the floor. A lot has changed on the hospo landscape since then, but their commitment to thoughtful, generous hospitality is as strong as ever, as is their limoncello, which they make in-house and insist you try. It’s just one small example of the way they do things properly, with heart.
When I first asked Daniel Migliaccio at Studio Amaro for a chat, he politely declined: not one for the media spotlight, he said. But persistence pays off, and second time lucky, I found myself at Studio Amaro with a chef who’s been quietly steering the ship across Commune Group kitchens for nearly seven years. From teenage dishwasher in Ferntree Gully to Grossi-trained pasta guy to Hanoi Hannah’s head chef and beyond, Daniel’s journey is less about chasing fame and more about feeding people well, mentoring his crew, and yes, finding strange joy in spreadsheets.
Every now and then, you meet people who radiate such generosity, such quiet brilliance, that you walk away feeling a little bit better about the world. Chae and Yoora, the couple behind the tiny six-seat Korean restaurantChaein the hills of Cockatoo, are exactly those kinds of people.This is a restaurant where time is the main ingredient. Years go into the ferments, and the big clay jars sitting outside, quietly brewing flavour, take up more than just physical space; they represent a completely different way of thinking about food and business. The intimacy is part of the experience: Chae, calmly plating at the bench, Yoora quietly attentive to everything else. It began humbly, in their Brunswick apartment, with Chae just giving it a go. But beneath that quiet start was a deep well of skill, philosophy and soul.Now, I have a confession. This was actually the second time I sat down to record this episode. The first time, I drove out, I had a beautiful, thoughtful conversation with Chae and Yoora, drove home, and, poof. The recording vanished. Gone. A technical glitch, or maybe just the podcast gods keeping me humble. But Chae, being the gracious human she is, invited me back. And I'm so glad she did, because this chat, take two, feels even more special.
From the bustling streets of Naples to the top of Melbourne’s pizza scene, Mariano De Giacomi is a pizzaiolo who lives and breathes his craft. Raised in a tight-knit family with five children and few resources, Mariano began working at the age of nine, lugging shopping bags from a local deli to neighbours' homes. His path into pizza began not with flour and fire, but with washing dishes and salvaging dough bound for the bin, training himself, quietly and obsessively, on scraps. In Naples, he spent over a decade mastering the art of pizza at Umberto, an acclaimed pizzeria and founding member of the Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana, or True Neapolitan Pizza Association, where he developed a deep knowledge of dough science and fermentation. It was here he met Johnny Di Francesco of 400 Gradi, who later invited him to Melbourne. Mariano went on to become the Executive Chef for the Gradi Group, training an entire generation of Melbourne’s pizza makers and helping build one of the city’s most iconic pizza empires. Now, with his own venture, Made a Napoli, Mariano brings the show to you: mobile pizza ovens, silent disco headsets, and even his kids spinning dough at events.
There’s something grounded and quietly assured about Adam Sanderson. Maybe it’s the way he talks about kitchens as places of belonging. Or maybe it’s the way his journey, which began in the north of England, has moved through some of the most celebrated dining rooms in the world: The Fat Duck, where creativity and precision dance together, and Noma in Copenhagen, where he learned to see ingredients through a new lens. When Adam landed in Melbourne, he felt the pulse of the city straight away; its openness, its energy, its love of food and something clicked. Now, as executive chef at Maison Batard, he’s found a space where all those experiences can come together. Maison Batard is a layered, generous space set across four floors and for me exudes French style and sensibilities. The menu features reimagined French classics, a potato omelette topped with caviar, rotisserie chicken with green olives, and a chocolate mousse served at the table with just the right amount of theatre. It’s a place that celebrates flavour, hospitality, and the quiet confidence of a chef who knows exactly where he is. I chatted with Adam in Le Club which is the basement burlesque bar of Maison Batard. It is all sumptuous red with velvet draping and intimate booths and at the time of day we were there, it’s the quietest place to be in Maison Batard.Photography: Pete Dillon
Daniel welcomed me into the ‘red room’ at Bang Bang’s newest venue in St Kilda. Although it’s only been open a few weeks, Bang Bang St Kilda already has a following. As executive chef and now a full partner in the Bang Bang group, Daniel oversees three restaurants and two additional kitchens across Melbourne’s southeast. His chef career has come full circle, as he met his wife in St Kilda and they travelled to London to work for two years before coming back to Melbourne and moving to the Mornington Peninsula with their young family. Daniel still loves spending time in the kitchen, but his focus is now on maintaining consistency across the venues. Bang Bang’s menu is Pan-Asian, drawing from Japan, Thailand, and India. Inspired by his travels, Daniel refines the menu while keeping beloved staples intact, striking a balance between authenticity and modern execution.
Callum Nugent might be relatively new to Stokehouse Pasta & Bar, but he's no stranger to high-pressure kitchens. Since stepping into his first official head chef role in December, he's embraced the challenge with enthusiasm. His love of food started young; he remembers being glued to TV cooking shows at just three years old and spending time in the kitchen with his mum, nonna, and godmother. With experience at places like Chateau Yering, Dinner by Heston Blumenthal and a formative 18 month stage in San Sebastian when he was 19, Callum has shaped his leadership style around balance: precision and creativity, discipline and support. He's passionate about keeping his team inspired, changing the menu every two weeks, and making sure hospitality is as rewarding for those in the kitchen as it is for those at the table.
Cameron Tay-Yap didn’t really set out to be a chef, initially cooking for his family was a way to avoid doing his homework. But in secondary school, he took a chance on hospitality, and a friendly rivalry with a classmate pushed him to take food seriously. That competitive streak led to a stage at Attica, where he found his rhythm in the high-stakes world of fine dining. Since then, he has travelled and spent time as the head chef at Amaru. But his latest venture, Pebble at La Roca, is something different. What began as a pop-up in a car park evolved into a space where Cameron could step back, experiment, and bring people together—though, true to form, his “relaxed” project still involves weekly menu changes and exacting standards. Cameron reflects on his journey, the discipline of top-tier kitchens, and why, after a decade in fine dining, rustic cooking is harder than it looks. Generous with his insights, he shares here what the industry has taught him—not just about food, but about patience, compassion, and the kind of leadership that brings out the best in a team.
Johnny Ly has been the head chef at Green Man’s Arms for five and a half years, bringing creativity and passion to plant-based cooking. His journey began at University House at Melbourne Uni, where he completed his apprenticeship and worked for a decade, gaining experience across a variety of cuisines. After stints at RACV fine dining and vegan eateries like The Alley and Serotonin Eatery, he was drawn back to restaurant-style dining, ultimately landing at Green Man’s Arms. Johnny takes an innovative approach to plant-based food, reimagining classic dishes while accommodating dietary needs. He credits his mother for sparking his love of food and fosters a collaborative kitchen where his team shares in the creative process. For Johnny, food is deeply personal; a way to evoke memories, bring people together, and create something meaningful.
Dan Lidgard has always known he was meant to be a chef. Growing up in Mt Maunganui, New Zealand, he was drawn to the kitchen from an early age and never looked back. His career has taken him through some of Australia’s best restaurants, including Stokehouse and Attica, where he honed his skills and developed his own bold, produce-driven style. Now, as executive chef at Patsy’s, Bau Bau, and Bistro Elba, he’s creating dishes that are fun, fresh, and packed with flavour. It is obvious from talking with Dan that he loves cooking and can’t imagine doing anything else. He kept popping up on my radar as other chefs mentioned him in glowing terms and then I read Broadsheet’s recent article about the ‘cool’ chefs cooking in Bouldering Gym carparks. Dan is one of them, joining mate and founder of Pebble at La Roca, Cameron Tay-Yap this Sunday to cook up an Italian feast. It was high time I chatted to Dan and I am so glad I did.
Simon Cassar has always been immersed in food, working in hospo from a young age and then as an editor at Urban List, where he wrote about Melbourne’s dining scene. Now he is the owner of his own pizza shop. His journey from writer to pizzaiolo wasn’t immediate. He spent time working at DOC in Mornington, running pop-ups in Sorrento, Flinders and over summer at Quealy Wines in Balnarring, and obsessively refining his dough. Inspired by a hybrid pizza style he encountered in New York and London, Simon aims to strike a balance between Neapolitan tradition and the crisp, structured slices of New York. Now, after years of honing his craft, he’s taking the plunge with a bricks-and-mortar space, where he’ll keep things simple: a tight menu, top-quality local ingredients, and a deep commitment to making great pizza.
Michael Lambie is a renowned chef and restaurateur who has significantly influenced Melbourne's dining scene since the late 1990s. Originally from the UK, Lambie trained under esteemed chefs, including Marco Pierre White and Alain Roux, before relocating to Australia. In Melbourne, he made his mark with establishments such as Stokehouse, Circa at The Prince, Taxi Dining Room, and Lucy Liu. After selling Lucy Liu in 2020 and a brief period in Queensland, Lambie returned to Melbourne to open Juni in late 2024. Named in honour of his late mother, June, Juni offers a contemporary pan-Asian menu which includes dishes that nod to some of Michael’s favourites across his career. Michael tells the best stories about chef life in the nineties: wild kitchens, big personalities, and the industry’s transformation into what it is today. I loved every minute of this chat, and I could have listened to Michael for hours.
Why doesn’t almond milk ever taste like real almonds? That question sent Marialuisa Castrignano on a journey to create Al Naturale, a nut milk company dedicated to making fresh, high-quality almond milk right here in Melbourne. Frustrated by store-bought options that lacked real almond flavour, she set out to craft a pure, additive-free alternative—one where you could actually taste the richness of the almonds. Each nut milk is made with the highest quality of activated nuts. Their bottles include either 20% or 8% almonds, 12% walnut, or 12% hazelnut, filtered water, date and a pinch of salt which makes Al Naturale the best authentic plant-based milk in Australia. A year ago, Marialuisa opened a cafe in St Kilda so that Melburnians could enjoy Al Naturale as part of their daily coffee ritual. Tucked away from the bustle of Fitzroy Street, this café is a serene retreat, bathed in soft green tones and filled with lush greenery. As well as the nut milks, they serve Italian-style breakfast and lunch dishes.
Zac Shearer is a chef with a deep-rooted love for food that started in Tasmania, where his dad was a fisherman and his mum took him on trips to Melbourne’s Food and Wine shows. He’s been cooking since he was 18, spending time in Melbourne kitchens such as The Lincoln and French Saloon. Now, he’s taking on a new challenge—training to be a food studies teacher—while also launching Tiny Bar in Brunswick East with his partner, Jamila. I had been wanting to chat to Zac for a while and now that there’s so much happening, it was the perfect time. We talked about his journey, the shift from head chef roles restaurant kitchens to the classroom and a very tiny bar where the kitchen is literally a step from the tables. We also talked about why Tiny Bar is already such a special addition to Melbourne’s food scene, a couple of weeks in where it seems to be exactly what everyone was waiting for.
Lyndey Milan is a vibrant force in Australian food, known for her warm personality and deep love of good food and wine. With decades of experience as a TV presenter, cookbook author, and food educator, she’s passionate about making cooking accessible and enjoyable. She was the food director at Australian Women’s Weekly, has hosted numerous TV shows, and also created Tasting Success, a mentoring program for women chefs. Whether she’s sharing recipes, hosting culinary tours, or championing Australian produce, her enthusiasm is infectious. Who better to host an exclusive food and wine adventure at this year’s Melbourne Food and Wine Festival (MFWF)? This six-day journey in collaboration with Intrepid is billed as a Culinary Adventure and takes you through Melbourne and regional Victoria’s best food and wine experiences. From the unmissable World’s Longest Lunch to a rare spirits and international cheese tasting in Melbourne and a three-hour degustation aboard The Q Train, this really will be an amazing six days. I was delighted at the opportunity to speak to Lyndey and hear about the tour but also to hear about her career and how she got to where she is today.
For over 30 years, Phillippa Grogan has been a beloved name in Melbourne’s food scene. Founder of Phillippa’s Bakery, she draws inspiration from her New Zealand childhood and nine formative years with Sally Clarke at her restaurant and foodstore in London. Phillippa is unyielding in her use of top-quality ingredients, traditional recipes and flavour. Phillippa is absolutely all about flavour. Because of that, her creations have been a staple for generations of Melburnians. Walking into her Armadale shop feels like walking into a farmhouse kitchen with its beautiful wooden sideboards and display cabinets full of delicious quiches and breads and the hugely popular cardamom buns. I was delighted to have the chance to sit with Phillippa and hear her story and I will definitely be back very soon for another cardamom bun.
The role of Head of Fermentation is not something you come across every day. In fact, Caitlin Koether is somewhat of a pioneer in this space and holds one of the first such positions in Australia, a role with The Mulberry Group which was uniquely crafted around her expertise. Caitlin’s work is all about preservation, finding ways to extend the life of seasonal produce, create new flavours, and reduce waste. Her approach balances creativity and science, turning sometimes imperfect ingredients into something extraordinary. With the resources of Common Ground farm on the Bellarine Peninsula, she works closely with the chefs in the group as well as the farmers to use ingredients that enhance menus in thoughtful ways. From condiments to non-alcoholic beverages, her creations are seamlessly integrated into dishes, showcasing how fermentation can elevate flavour while supporting the planet. I sat down to chat with Caitlin at Little Molli in Abbotsford and then ate a delicious smoked chicken tartine with chickpea miso mayo and pickled celery and drank a striking Miso Wave which is a blue spirulina shake inspired by the look of the Erewhon Coconut Cloud Smoothie. As the first Conversation with a chef for the year, Caitlin has set the bar high. Passionate, articulate and a joy to talk to, Caitlin is one to watch and if I were you, dear listener, I would be getting to Little Molli as quickly as you can to experience the goodness for yourself.
Mordialloc is a vibe and the team from La Cabra are here for it. Set just back from the beach, and only metres from the train station, the latest Mexican addition to the Mordi strip is also La Cabra’s ninth and biggest to date. Housed across three levels in a heritage building, complete with a rooftop deck and stunning views across the bay, it is perfect for watching the sunset with a spicy marg in hand. Foodwise, you’ll find all the favourites, think chargrilled corn, jalapeno poppers, nachos, quesadillas, and plenty of tacos. I sat down with founders Sherinder Kohli, Derrick Chandra and Joshua Smith on a hot sunny day when the beach was packed, and hundreds of kids were jumping into the sea from the end of the pier. The three friends met through a shared love of hospitality and a desire to create a super fun dining destination. Since 2019 they have created nine such venues and they have plans for even more. And just a little note to the adventurous, anyone who dines at the Mordi La Cabra from 13 January to 30 March, 2025 will go into the draw to win a week-long trip to Mexico. The trip for two includes accommodation, flights and the winners will be taken on a tour of Mexico’s iconic Casa Herradura Tequila Distillery, just rack up $50 on your bill and you'll be in with a shot.
Max’s Restaurant was the first winery restaurant on the Mornington Peninsula and was started by owner and chef, Max Paganoni in 1994. The views are spectacular. From the dining room, you look out over the vines to Western Port and across to Seal Rock. Max has always been passionate about using and promoting local produce and he has now very happily brought in two equally enthusiastic chefs, Michael Demagistris and Ryan James to work with him at Max’s. Michael has worked at top-tier venues, including Jacques Reymond in Melbourne, Alinea and The Publican in Chicago, and Noma in Copenhagen. In 2013, he became a household name as a top four finalist on MasterChef Australia: The Professionals. Over the years, Demagistris has held executive chef roles at places like Sorrento Golf Club and Buckley’s Chance and owned his own restaurant East Bar and Dining in Mount Martha. Most recently, he has worked at Polperro Winery and was executive chef with Searoad Ferries and Tarra. Best friend, Ryan considers Michael a mentor, having met him at East Bar and Dining before going on to some of the same venues. These two are absolutely the A team. They hold the same values for cooking and for connection with the community and they are both ecstatic to be cooking at Max’s Restaurant. They’ve worked with farmer and chef, Karl Breese to harvest vegetables they are excited about and they are putting up a degustation menu full of imaginative and delicious twists and turns. I had such a lovely chat with Michael and Ryan and then was treated to some of the snacks and desserts they had told me about. I can’t wait to go back to the lush and verdant setting that is Max’s Restaurant to share it all with friends.
Geraldine is a lovely rural town in South Canterbury in the South Island of Aotearoa, New Zealand and it is also home to the family-owned business, Barker’s. Barker’s have been filling kiwi pantries since 1969 and their products are still made on the family farm in Geraldine. I remember Barker’s blackcurrant syrup and Barker’s jams when I was growing up, but they have so many more products than that now: chutneys, sauces, compotes and meal bases. I was pleasantly surprised when I was walking down Park Street in South Melbourne to see the Barker’s Foodstore and Eatery sign and had to go in. The café stocks a lot of Barker’s products and chef, Elle Casta’s menu showcases them. Elle started her cheffing career a little later after working as a paralegal and then in advertising. She always loved cooking for her friends and, after apprenticeships at Ocha in Kew and Vue de Monde, her love for cooking only grew and there was no looking back. She now very happily works day shifts and particularly loves her loyal following of the Barker’s dogs for whom she bakes big batches of peanut butter and oatmeal cookies every day.
Kay-Lene Tan is a renowned pastry chef celebrated for her innovative desserts that combine storytelling with bold flavours. Before embarking on her culinary career, she worked as a documentary maker, with a background in mass communication from Ngee Ann Polytechnic in Singapore. A turning point came during a “quarter-life crisis,” which led her to pivot toward her passion for food, eventually enrolling at At-Sunrice GlobalChef Academy to pursue pastry and bakery arts. Her talent took her to some of the world’s best kitchens and earned her accolades, including being a semi-finalist on MasterChef Australia: Dessert Masters in 2023. On the show, she impressed with desserts inspired by her heritage and personal memories, such as her "Milo Dinosaur" dish and a "New Beginning" creation symbolising seasonal change. While she didn't take home the title, Kay-Lene described her experience on Dessert Masters as transformative, reigniting her confidence and reaffirming her unique culinary voice. Kay-Lene is now using that voice at Omnia Bistro and Yugen Dining in South Yarra. Kay-Lene is articulate and realistic and glorious in the way she describes dessert creation but also her own journey, and she also has the best laugh. I learned a lot from our conversation and came away the better for having spoken to her.
Chris Wong, chef and co-owner of Lilijana Eatery in Port Melbourne, brings a unique culinary story to Melbourne’s food scene. A former professional hockey player who spent nearly a decade travelling to and from Scandinavia for the winter season, Chris was inspired by the comfort and tradition of the Nordic cuisine he ate in his friends’ homes. His restaurant, named after his wife Christine’s grandmother, Lilijana, blends Scandinavian and continental European flavours with a focus on house-made sourdough, smoked salmon, and pickles. Chris actually trained and worked in industrial design, but always wanted to work with food. With lockdown and more time on his hands, he volunteered at Gradi to learn some skills and he worked with various mentors in the hospitality industry. Chris and his wife, Christine initially started with a food truck making pizza before transitioning to running Lilijana Eatery with Christine’s sister, Steph. The café’s thoughtful menu, warm hospitality, and Chris’s commitment to sustainability have already earned it a spot in Good Food’s top 20 cafes, a testament to their hard work and passion. Chris is a driven chef with an insatiable desire to learn more and he loves sharing everything that he learns with his customers both in the café and in the classes he teaches upstairs on Bay Street. I loved hearing Chris’ story and I can’t wait to go back to Lilijana Eatery to try more Scandinavian treats.
Today I’m talking to Bartek (Bert) Glinka & Brendan D’Amelio at Uncle’s Smallgoods. Bert and Brendan are friends, brothers-in-law and the charcuterie makers supplying many Melbourne cult institutions. You’ll find their pastrami at places like Hector's Deli, Nico's and Hugo's and their bacon is fried in cafes like ST ALi, Rustica, and Earl Canteen. Bert and Brendan’s smallgoods journey started when they decided to sell kranskys at the Polish Festival and wondered how they might go about making their own. Eventually, after proving their commitment by chopping a pile of wood, they convinced a Polish husband and wife team, Marian and Nora Poprawski to sell them their Polish Deli in 2013. They now have two sites in Dandenong, a dedicated state of the art Smokehouse and the flagship Deli Cafe Foodstore. I had a full tour of the small but super efficient factory with the main attraction being the two large woodfired smoke ovens where they use red gum wood that they light early in the morning and then add wood chips to for the smoke. It is the artisan way of doing it and Bert and Brendan are particularly proud of this. I got to eat kransky warm out of the smoker and went away with a very generous ham bag filled with some of the best smoked salmon, smoked chicken, bacon and polish sausage I have ever tasted. Bert and Brendan’s passion for creating the best possible product is palpable and they were so lovely to talk to. They are putting out over 10 000 Christmas hams this year and if you miss out this year, mark your 2025 calendar because this ham is 100% free range, treated with so much care and love and is delicious.
I've had a few chats with Matti Fallon over the years and they have always been good ones, so when he suggested a catch-up over lunch, it was a hard yes from me. We sat by the front window of Mr Vincenzo's with Mornington Park and Port Phillip Bay across the road and we feasted: stracciatella, artichokes, walnut vinaigrette and peas, snapper crudo, zucchini flowers, ricotta filling and whipped avocado, rigatoni with wild garlic pesto and smoked mozzarella. So good! We decided to leave the chat until after lunch so in true lo-fi Conversation with a chef style, and because we had already been chatting over lunch, the actual conversation just continued on, so you might feel as though you have entered halfway through. Matti had worked at Rare Hare, Huxtable, DuNord, and had a residency at the Broadsheet Kitchen, as well as running a Kiwi pie business and had finally opened his dream restaurant, Colt Dining in Mornington. Three and half weeks after opening, he lost it all in a fire. I had been about to drive down the following week to chat with Matti and he sent me a photo and the message, Raincheck. But here we are, a year on and he has opened the glorious Mr Vincenzo's. We sat at a wooden table out the back which was the only piece of furniture to be saved from the blaze and launched into it all.
Baba’s Deli is lovely. Owners Max and Aleesha have nailed what it means to offer excellent hospitality: friendly service, excellent sandwiches and $3 coffee. While getting chefs in to make sandwiches wasn’t the original plan, it has worked out well for everyone, with friends, Daniel and Luke leaving stressful restaurant jobs to have fun every day wrangling the likes of Mama’s Vodka, the chicken schnitzel sandwich with vodka sauce, Baba’s Egg and Tayta’s Falafel and then go home at 3pm to socialise, go to footie matches or do whatever they like that they haven’t been able to do working in kitchens over the last twenty years. Daniel and Luke love working together at Baba’s and this was a glorious chat.
Zero95 Alphington was still being set up when I arrived to talk to Executive chef Daniel Mastramico and he gave me a quick tour of the brand-new pizza and gelato venue, There’s a gleaming Marana oven for the pizzas, a mural on the cool room wall by TD Illustrations, and photos in the dining room of Daniel’s parents’ engagement party 52 years ago. With seating for 80 inside and 40 outside overlooking Artisan Park in The Bend, which is part of the YarraBend Development where the old paper mill was, I can see this is going to be the place to be in Alphington. Amazing if you live there and worth the journey if you don’t. Daniel grew up with his grandmother’s cooking in Mildura and was drawn to hospitality, firstly front of house and eventually the kitchen. He has a lot of experience in venues across the world and still loves being on the pans and continuing to learn. This was. A lovely conversation and I can’t wait to go back once the venue has opened to eat pizza and gelato, drink Aperol Spritz and, I imagine have a wonderful time.
Tracey Lister is a Melbourne-born chef with more than 30 years of experience in the hospitality industry, both in Australia and Vietnam. She is also the author of four cookbooks (KOTO: A Culinary Journey Through Vietnam (2008), Vietnamese Street Food (2011), Real Vietnamese Cooking (2014) and Made in Vietnam (2017)) and she is the owner of Brunswick Kitchen cookery school. When I went in to talk with Tracey, she was preparing for that evening's vegan cooking class. Tracey always loved working in restaurants, seeing the cool room full of produce and ready to go, the thrill of service and happy diners, but later in her career, she found new joy in teaching, sharing her knowledge and love of cooking with others. As well as teaching Vietnamese, Persian and South-east Asian cooking herself, Tracey also invites other chefs, such as Almay Jordaan and Daniel Wilson to come in and teach as well. Tracey also shares her love of her second home, Vietnam by leading bi-annual Northern Vietnam Food and Fabric Tours, with Future Traditions' owner, Cynthia Mann – an artisanal Vietnamese brand celebrating traditional ethnic minority crafts. The tour takes participants on an eight-day journey through Northern Vietnam, where they share insights into the region's culinary and textile traditions. It was such a pleasure to talk with Tracey and I can't wait to go back to Brunswick Kitchen for a Food from Hanoi cooking class.
Ben is the award-winning chef and owner of renowned restaurant Attica, where his innovative, boundary-pushing cuisine has earned him global acclaim. Known for his deep connection to sustainable and native ingredients and a commitment to excellence, Ben's culinary vision goes beyond the plate. His book, Uses for Obsession offers a vulnerable, humorous, and hard-hitting exploration of his journey, as well as his thoughts on what it takes to thrive in the hospitality industry, our responsibility in terms of sustainability and he has quite a bit to say about food writers. Ben inspires both within and beyond the kitchen, making him a truly influential figure in the world of modern gastronomy, as well as a wise man in life and Uses for Obsession is an important read whether you’re a chef, a food writer or a human. I had, of course long wanted to chat to Ben and I was delighted to have the opportunity. It was everything I had hoped for and more.
Circl is a wine-centric restaurant led by a team of friends and hospitality experts in Punch Lane in Melbourne's CBD. Unique in concept, with an impressive 1,500-bottle wine list and strong 150+ by-the-glass offering, Circl wants diners to try some of the world’s most exciting and up-and-coming wines, alongside European-inspired food with Scandinavian finesse. I went in to chat to Executive Chef Elias Salomonsson, who has worked for the Scott Pickett Group and Vue Group and I had a very lovely time. Elias gave me a tour of the venue, including a heady moment standing in the wine cellar surrounded by walls of beautiful wine. Elias has put together an incredible menu which has nods to his Swedish heritage as well as some of Australia’s best produce: Loddon Estate duck with Davidson plum barbecue sauce and burnt orange or a Blackmore Wagyu tri tip steak with mountain pepper cafe de Paris butter, the menu also reflects Elias’ love of caviar, snacks and dessert. I was lucky enough to try a glass of Albarino and the Circl Caviar Tin which is a brown butter crumpet served with a little tin of seasoned crème fraiche, soft green herbs and Yarra Valley salmon roe. Delicious! Elias grew up watching and helping his grandmother cook. He always loved food and so it was no surprise to his family that he became a chef. He started his working life across the water from home town Malmo in Copenhagen and then went on to Ireland. Then he came to Melbourne for six months, loved it so much that 10 years later he is here and cooking glorious food for us.
Originally from Adelaide, Chris Rendell grew up in Melbourne and started chef life as an apprentice under Robert Castellani at Carmine’s before heading to Sydney and working for Neil Perry at the Rock Pool Group’s Star Grill and then at Christine Manfield’s iconic The Paramount in Potts Point. After four years in London working with David Thompson, as well as at Sugar Club, The Grocer of Elgin and the Mews of Mayfair, Chris spent 16 years in the States as a chef at legendary New York restaurant Public, and was the founder of Flinders Lane. Now Chris is based in Auckland and is group executive chef for Savor Group, overseeing 20 venues there. As if he hasn’t got enough going on, he has teamed up with Only Hospitality Group to develop the menu for revamped Hawthorn pub, The Beehive on the corner of Barkers Road and Church Street. With a rich history dating back to 1855, the building has been around for nearly 200 years. After The Beehive’s original closure 15 years ago, it moonlighted as restaurants Serafina and Butcher and Vine. And if you’re wondering how the local gem got its title in 1882, what’s now Barkers Road in Hawthorn was originally Beehive Road. Long-time hospitality partners and mates Julien Moussi and Tony Pantano welcome locals and beyond to the beloved watering hole, honouring its old-world charm to ensure people feel right at home. Both regulars at the pub throughout their twenties, The Beehive holds a lot of nostalgia for the local duo – a sentiment shared by many growing up in Hawthorn and surrounds. With Chris overseeing the menu, expect pub classics done very well like parmas, a signature cheeseburger and steak night, as well as some more fancy offerings like the wood fired focaccia with whipped parmesan and the grilled spatchcock with salsa verde.
Santiago Sansone is one of 10 talented young chefs who have been selected for the 2024 Pacific Region S.Pellegrino Young Chef Academy Competition. Santiago works as Chef de Partie at the Four Seasons in Sydney, and he was put forward for the competition by the Executive chef. Born in Buenos Aires, Argentina, Santiago grew up watching his grandparents cooking every day, preparing dishes for celebrations and holidays, and making pasta every Sunday. Santiago spent four years doing a law degree but realised that he enjoyed the joy and creativity he got when he cooked for his friends and in a part time job he had and so he changed direction and signed up for culinary school. He did various internships in Buenos Aires and then Santiago went on to work for a catering company specialising in Italian cuisine. Here, he became passionate about working with flour, pasta, bread and Italian sweets. Following this, Santiago started working in his first leadership role, as Chef de Partie, at Negroni in Buenos Aires before heading to the States to work at The-Ritz Carlton in Santa Barbara and working across four outlets including fine-dining restaurants, sushi restaurants and more. Santiago came to Sydney, in 2023 and started work as the Chef de Partie at the Four Seasons. It was such a pleasure talking to Santiago and hearing about the inspiration behind his dish, Sweet Memories, which features sweetbreads, or as Argentinians call them, molleja. Through childhood flavours, Santiago aims to encourage people to experience something different by creating a beautiful and colourful dish and he hopes he can change people’s minds and perceptions with this dish and in so doing, help utilise all parts of the cow, so that there is less waste.
Walking up Canning Street to The Wine Corner Store on a sunny day is joyous. There are people sitting at outside tables and lounging on the grass strip in the middle of the road with bottles of wine and snacks, catching up with friends and enjoying the tease of a possible early spring. It's a vibe. Steven "Stevie" Mifsud-Ellul opened The Wine Corner Store back in 2016 with a concept of mirroring the relationships that milk bar owners have with a neighbourhood - but instead of selling milk, bread and lollies, he sells wines, beers and delicious food. One of the more unique things about The Wine Corner Store is that people can enjoy a bottle of wine that would usually cost hundreds of dollars at a restaurant because Stevie sells it at retail price. Heading the kitchen is John Cassie. John has worked at several of my favourite Melbourne venues including The Palace Hotel, Verge, Cutler & Co, Bar Liberty, Capitano, Old Palm Liquor, Waxflower and Atticus Finch. John and I sat down and had a lovely chat with a glass of wine and then I was invited to stay on with my partner for dinner, or more realistically the feast that John sent out. John is a master of flavour, and I would be hard pressed to say which dish was my favourite. I started with briny sweet Sydney rock oysters from front-of-house Miles' family's oyster farm in Lake Wonboyn on the remote far south coast of New South Wales. There are some Maltese leaning dishes as a nod to Stevie’s heritage, such as the Bigilla, a hearty Maltese broad bean dip served with warm house-made flatbread, and then there was a pork rendang croquette with charred pineapple and a stunning Jerusalem artichoke with romesco. We also shared the Fettuccini with duck and radicchio ragu and a seafood Moqueca, which owes its origins to Brazil and perhaps John's earlier travels throughout South America. I loved it all and I am already thinking about when I can go back for more.
When I first met Aleksis Kalnins, I was writing a First Look story for Broadsheet about Molli. It was the afternoon of the soft opening and Aleks took me on a super fast tour of the kitchen, restaurant and up to the rooftop to admire the raised garden beds. He talked about the food he liked to cook and his vision for the restaurant and I knew I had to come back and hear more once Molli was up and running. In between times I went in to Molli with friends and I loved every single dish we ordered for lots of reasons: flavour, texture and aesthetic. The dining room has a great vibe and I will always love warm brick with good art and beautiful furniture, but it’s the food that counts and you are absolutely in good hands with Aleks. Aleks is a spreadsheet guy. He has a lot of ideas and he puts them together, along with the orchestration of them in spreadsheets, anticipating the flow and the way dishes will work with other dishes and how the while operation will sing. Because, for Aleks, it’s about diner experience. One of his hobbies is eating out, so he is well aware of what it means to be on the other side and the tingles he gets from service is all about bringing it all together for the ultimate diner experience. I love that.
The Tiffy Group is known for its imaginative venues which transcend the ordinary. Ryan Spurrell is Executive chef for and so oversees the group’s Goldilocks Rooftop Bar, House of Correction, Lost Boys, The Clarendon and latest Snow White inspired beauty, Mirror Mirror Rooftop Lounge. I spoke to Ryan in The Clarendon which has recently been renovated and is a really beautiful makeover of the great bones of the original Clarendon Hotel, established in 1858 and then had a quick trip up the elevator to rooftop Mirror Mirror. Melbourne loves a rooftop bar and this one might only be three floors up but gives absolute rooftop energy, as well as some Mediterranean influences in its greenery and tiling. You can see out to Port Melbourne as well as see the city from a different perspective. Ryan grew up watching cooking shows on television and was fascinated by watching the techniques used by the chefs. Drawn to fine dining, he has worked in some of my favourite Melbourne restaurants such as Vue de Monde, Estelle and Matilda as well as top London restaurants, The Ledbury and Pollen Street Social. He also worked in Ho Chi Minh for eight months and was loving it before the experience was cut short by Covid lockdowns, but he brings to The Clarendon and Mirror Mirror some of the flavours he discovered and loved there intertwined with the food he has grown up cooking.
I was lucky enough to be invited to stay at Oakwood Premier in Southbank, Melbourne for two nights. We stayed on the 37th floor in a glorious one bedroom apartment with a view out across the river and the city to the Richmond, Kew and even a glimpse of the Dandenongs. Everything looks different from so high up and I loved taking in the lights of the city by night and then watching the sun rise up between the buildings in the morning. The apartment was super comfortable and had we wanted to stay there and never leave, it had a fully equipped kitchen with a Nespresso machine, glasses for every occasion and even a set of measuring cups! But of course, we didn’t need to cook because we were also invited to dine at Strato on the 40th floor. Culinary director Gagan Sharma and his team looked after us beautifully, taking us through the menu with Huon salmon tartare and Thomastown mini burrata to start followed by honey glazed Macedon Ranges duck breast and Spatchcock with Makhani gravy and an onion bhaji – the gravy and bhaji a nod to Gagan’s roots. We finished with all three of the desserts which were stunning in their colour, texture and flavour: Yuzu Honey GingerSemifreddo; Yuzu ganache encased in a delicate white chocolate hive, Dark Chocolate Cube with a velvety caramel centre, and green apple and sorbet. I could already tell from the menu that Gagan loves what he does and enjoys creating menus that allow local produce to shine. It was such a pleasure to talk to him the next day about why he became a chef and the pleasure he gets from cooking and feeding people.
When I was asked whether I would like to try Gamze Smokehouse’s Gold Bacon and chat to Brendan Gamze about the process behind it as well as the philosophy behind the family owned and operated Smokehouse, I was thrilled. Gamze Smokehouse was started by Felix Gamze, Brendan’s father, who migrated to Australia with his parents as a boy, went to school before starting an apprenticeship in butchery. Felix was ahead of his time, enjoying experimenting with different ways of preserving and curing and smoking to avoid using chemicals, as well as seeking out ethically produced local meat for his products. The Gamze Gold Bacon came out of a round table discussion about how to make the best bacon possible. They started with the pig, using free-range, black rare breed pork from a regenerative farm on the Limestone Coast. The pigs are finished on a mixture of acorns and macadamias for an ultra-rich taste then brined in Three Bays mineral water, Murray River pink salt and manuka honey before being double cold smoked over retired wine barrels. This produces a highly aromatic bacon with a complex caramelised flavour profile that is totally unique. It is finished with edible gold leaf. Gamze are producing a very limited amount of this bacon and releasing it on 30 August in time for Father’s Day and World Bacon Day, so if I were you I would be getting onto this right away!
I met Orlando Marzo when I was writing about Joe Vargetto’s Bianchetto and Orlando was curating the drinks list. Orlando is passionate about what he does and a great storyteller. When I ran into him again at the Little Food Market recently and he suggested catching up to tell me his story and take me through some of the Loro drinks, I said, no way. Are you kidding? A world class bartender and winner of the prestigious 2018 Diageo World Class Cocktail Competition coming by with drinks? Of course I said yes! Orlando's bartending journey began in Modena, Italy. After completing hospitality school, he headed to London to sharpen his craft, honing his skills and making connections until he got to work at his dream bar, Milk & Honey. By the end of 2013, Orlando made his way to Australia, having heard about Melbourne's hospitality scene and seeing it as the next step. He worked at Eau-de-Vie. Dinner by Heston, and Lume and discovered a gap in the market for elevated ready to serve drinks. Fast forward to December 2021, and Orlando launched Loro, a bottled cocktail company designed to bring world-class cocktails to anyone, anytime. And very happily, that included me. This was the perfect Friday afternoon: stories and cocktails, what more could I ask for?
Jess Liemantara, also known as Jess Lemon, is a pastry chef, self-published author and now Head of Innovation and Development at Ned’s Bakes. Jess has graced the MasterChef kitchen three times, first making waves in 2018 as the youngest contestant ever to compete and earning a spot in the top four, then in 2020 for Season 12 – Back to Win and then in MasterChef’s Dessert Masters where she finished 3rd against Australia’s industry best. I first spoke to Jess just after her first MasterChef season. She was working at Nobu and she shared the story of how she fell in love with dessert creation, inspired by watching her grandmother and aunt work their magic in the kitchen. Now as Head of Innovation, Jess has her own magic going on. She has perfected the art of laminating viennoiserie and continues to push the boundaries of pastry making. If you have a look at Jess’s Instagram account, you can see that she has creativity in spadefuls but she is also fastidious in her execution so that she might be making hundreds of croissants or hundreds of macarons, but they are all perfect. It was lovely to catch up with Jess again and she gave me a list of things to try at Ned’s which I can’t wait to get started on.
Some of Australia’s best chefs (and quite a few friends of the podcast) are heading north for a feast in the tropics and it’s all thanks to chef Spencer Patrick and his Taste Port Douglas. Founder and culinary director of Chef-hatted Harrisons in the Sheraton Grand Mirage in Port Douglas, Spencer started his career in the UK where he was head chef at three of Marco Pierre White’s restaurants in London before coming across to Australia in the early 2000s. At the Cafe Royal, Spencer garnered national acclaim by being awarded a Michelin Star at 26 years old, making him the youngest chef in the country to have done this. The Good Food Guide also awarded Spencer with 8/10 making him joint 3rd in London alongside Gordon Ramsey. Spencer arrived in Melbourne and worked with Raymond Capaldi and Gary Mehigan at Fenix before heading off around Australia with his wife Reina and settling in Far North Queensland. Spencer and Reina started Taste of Port Douglas in 2013 with the idea of promoting all the glorious produce they were enjoying in their now home. The festival has gone from strength to strength welcoming 10, 000 visitors last year. This year the stellar line-up includes Michael Wilson from Marguerite in Singapore – a first time for the festival international chef, Ben Williamson from Brisbane’s Agnes, Aaron Ward from Bathers’ Pavilion in Sydney, Colin Fassnidge, and names familiar to Victorians and some who have been on Conversation with a chef: Julian Hills from Navi, Ian Curley, Telina Menzies as well as Raymond Capaldi, Mark Best and Michael Lambie to name but a few. There are long lunches, a main stage, Masterclasses and restaurant takeovers and I would love to be there. Next year, for sure.
What a wild and impressive ride of a career. When I went in to chat to Sunny Gilbert at the Hofbrauhaus, I did not expect to hear about cooking whole crocodiles in a bread oven in China. A career as a chef can certainly take you places. Sunny hadn’t planned on being a chef, but once he got into a kitchen as a kitchenhand, he was quickly hooked, loving the adrenalin rush of service and wanting to push himself as quickly as possible. From starting his career in Darwin and taking the crocodiles to China and so on, to moving to Melbourne, working in hotels, owning his own restaurant in Docklands and eventually becoming head chef at MoVida next door, Sunny has had so much hospitality experience. He brings all that knowledge to the Hofbrauhaus, a Melbourne institution which has been around for 56 years. Sunny is executive chef and owner of this incredible place that’s sees chefs crumb to order hundreds of schnitzels on a Saturday night and where the tables in the upstairs beer hall next door are reinforced, “because of the dancing.” The Hofbrauhaus is a good time and Sunny is there for it, a firm believer in the goodness of hospitality and the importance of nurturing the next generation. I loved this conversation and I’ll see you up on the tables in the beer hall after I’ve eaten a schnitzel and had a Bavarian lager.
Grace Loke is a PhD student at RMIT in Melbourne and is co-lead in a team of researchers exploring the role of our sensory perception in the way we enjoy eating. More specifically, they are looking at the reasons why astronauts report meals taste bland in space and as a result are failing to eat their normal nutritional intake. Previous research has shown that aroma plays a large role in how we perceive food, but could it also be that aroma might affect mood and willingness or openness to the enjoyment of that food? The researchers are using Virtual Reality to simulate the astronaut’s environment and this, of course adds another layer to understanding the many factors involved in our experience of eating and the implications could go far beyond just the astronaut’s situation. This is obviously a departure from chatting to a chef, but I found the ideas so fascinating I just had to know more.
A couple of months ago I ate at Locavore Studio and it was glorious. For a start, the dining room is beautiful with its cathedral ceiling and rich and textural nature mural by local graphic artists Sonsie Studios. Head chef Ryan Lynch is putting up delicious dishes that reflect the seasons and the region. Most memorable was the mushroom anolini that was like a warm hug in its cosy, savoury goodness. There’s a lot going on out there with the providore, the cafe, the coffee roastery out the back and catering. While I was out there, I briefly met owner and chef Jessie Rae Crossley and absolutely wanted to go back and hear more about her time cooking on yachts in the south of France and around the world as well as how, at a relatively young age she has built up such an impressive business. This conversation is everything I love about hearing chefs’ stories and more. Jessie has cooked for the likes of Harvey Weinstein and the Kardashians and once worked 102 days straight cooking three meals a day of guests and three for crew. I can absolutely imagine Jessie’s adventures in cinematic form, and you should absolutely head out to Locavore and experience al the goodness for yourself.
Andrea Rigodanza is an Italian chef from Vicenza where he learnt how to cook in his family's restaurant. After a short apprenticeship in a 3 Michelin restaurant, he decided to move to Sydney and eventually on to Melbourne. Andrea has been in Australia for more than 8 years and last year decided to start his own business making handmade gnocchi for restaurants around Victoria. Initially he did this as well as working full time as an Executive chef in a private restaurant in the city but a couple of months ago, he left this role to focus on Gnocchi by Rigo. He makes potato gnocchi, spinach gnocchi, gluten free gnocchi and he also plays around with some specials like spinach, beetroot or pumpkin gnocchi. He also gives monthly cooking classes and various pop-up events. Andrea and I met at Sani in Brunswick one of the restaurants cooking his gnocchi. We shared a gnocchi with osso bucco, which was delicious, and talked about Andrea’s journey, the history of gnocchi as well as what’s going on with tinned tomatoes and olive oil right now. I also crowbarred in a reference to The Bear. It was so lovely to meet Andrea and hear his story.
I love it when people get in touch with me and suggest chefs to talk to. Robert, a retired chef got in touch with me and suggested Bottarga as a local gem with a solid chef. Chef Federico Bizzaro and his partner and wine expert Somi Paremanee opened Bottarga in 2021 and when I read more about the restaurant, I became increasingly fascinated. Dani Valent had a similar experience to me when someone suggested she check it out and she wrote glowing things in Good Food. Bottarga received a hat in the 2024 Australian Good Food Guide awards and has just been featured in Wine Spectator’s August issue alongside the world’s top restaurants and distinguished Australian establishments and was awarded an Excellence. Federico says he doesn’t really want to put a label on his food, but he is cooking what he and Somi like to eat, so his dishes represent his Italian background, Somi’s Thai upbringing and the Australian native ingredients from their new home. So you get dishes like the ora king salmon caviar blini with kalamansi, creme fraiche and wasabi leaf or tiger prawn culurgiones with thai coconut curry, abalone reduction, tigernut oil and sea grapes. I have been lucky enough to have been invited to Bottarga for their wine dinner next week and I cannot wait.
Diana Desensi is an incredible chef and a lovely person. I have heard her name so often from other chefs I have spoken to who hold her in high esteem, and it was so refreshing to sit down with her and hear how highly she regards the chefs that she has worked for and is now working for. Diana lived and breathed food and fostered a love for cooking from an early age, growing up with a Nonno and a Nonna who she watched and emulated and it is all she has ever wanted to do. I just finished watching Season 3 of The Bear and I know there are mixed reviews, but episode 10 where the chefs all sit around and talk about their experiences, the highs and the lows and you feel that passion, I loved it. And I got exactly the same thrill I got from watching that when I talked to Diana. She was so generous and articulate in what she shared about her own journey and the industry now and I loved every minute of it. I love every conversation I get to have with chefs, but this was a particularly special one.
Owning one restaurant, let alone two with a vision for even more was not part of the plan when Kabir Singh came to Australia for a month-long stay from New Delhi in 2020. Now Singh, as his regulars call him, is a Fitzroy local with a huge heart for the neighbourhood, hospitality and for his beloved Mukka, the restaurant he bought as Melbourne went into lockdown. I have always loved Mukka. I sat down with the original owners Prateek and Aditya Dhawan and their mother Rekha when they first opened the restaurant back in 2016 and they had a loyal following, especially for their butter chicken. Singh saw the potential in the restaurant after one visit and as well as respecting the original passion (and butter chicken) has taken it to whole new heights. Singh opened Mukka 2.0 in St Kilda and last year took the OG Mukka across Brunswick Street to a much larger venue that had previously been home to Vamos Spanish Tapas bar. It is now filled with gorgeous colours, the most inventive and beautiful use of fairy lights I have ever seen, and a soft aroma of the spices Singh grinds daily. As well as putting up delicious dishes, Singh is about the whole experience, and he loves community involvement and fun. To this end, popular Indian pastime: Bingo, also known as Housie and Tambola, is getting its own night on Wednesdays from next week and there’s also $25 Curry night on Tuesdays as well as Thursday Local’s Night, where, if you’re a local, you get 20% off your bill. Singh and I talked spices and produce and Australia’s enduring love for Butter Chicken particularly on a Sunday, but for a really in-depth exploration of many of the dishes on the menu, jump on Mukka’s Instagram for the Tangy Talks video series Singh does with the lovely Pallavi from Pallavi Social. You cannot watch these videos without wanting to rush out to Mukka and eat ALL the food. Both locations are open seven days, so off you go!
I last spoke to Anthony Thalassinos when he was newly head chef at The Hellenic House Project. Anthony is enthusiastic and passionate and it is no wonder he has been snapped up by Project North Hospitality Group who oversee Tickled Pink Venues in Elwood, Thornbury and Bali and well as a dessert bar in Coolaroo. Anthony is just as enthusiastic and passionate and now he is jet-set as well, flying between Melbourne and Bali and discovering new things. Anthony brings his knowledge of the kitchen as well as Mediterranean flavours to the food he is now working with, and he has loved discovering local produce and flavours as well. One of the things we talked about at The Hellenic House Project was Anthony’s love of service, so he has had to learn how to deal with not being on the tools in this role. It is always such a pleasure to catch up with chefs I have spoken to in the past and see what they are up to, and I absolutely enjoyed seeing Anthony again. It is really beginning to seem as though I should be in Bali talking to chefs, so just to put that out into the universe, I am definitely keen!
When I was asked if I’d like to talk to Michael Wilson, chef patron at Michelin Star fine dining Marguerite as well as Hortus in the Gardens by the Bay Flower Dome in Singapore I of course said yes. Then I got nervous. Michael trained in Melbourne under Guy Grossi and Andrew McConnell before heading to Shanghai where he earned his first Michelin Star, 5 months after opening Phenix in the Puli Hotel and Spa. Now he is executive chef and part of the group who owns the incredible Marguerite. But I needn’t have worried. We had a lovely chat over Zoom. Michael is down to earth, super friendly and as we spoke his two dogs appeared on the screen before falling asleep beside him. Michael’s menu at Marguerite is a seven plus course degustation filled with labour intensive but absolutely delicious flavours and creativity. Michael has some fresh and satisfying perspectives on food, cooking and the industry as a whole. I can’t wait to go to Singapore, get the buggy through the flower dome to Marguerite and savour every mouthful.
If you have not been to Dessous, you are missing out. I say this with absolute certainty, because I, like you, had absolutely been missing out until I went and spoke to head chef Dan Sawansak and then spent a glorious evening completely in his hands with the Leave it to us menu, my favourite way to eat. If you are amongst the wise people who have eaten at Dessous, then you already know how good it is down there in that intimate low-lit basement vibe that is Dessous. Dan is one of those chefs that ‘fell into it’ and then developed a deep abiding love and curiosity for cooking that you feel when you eat his food. Dan is humble and softly spoken and said things like, cooking is all I can do and that’s not true. He started off as a guitarist in a band and worked in kitchens to pay for that, but he fell in love with it and now that half his house is filled with cook books and his Notes app on his phone is bulging at the seams with ideas, is testament to the fact that Dan absolutely knows what he is doing. I caught glimpses of him at the pass putting up the most exquisite dishes which he told me are a mixture of subversion and memory and just really good flavours, and the serenity and focus he exuded are things we should all be aiming for in life. If you haven’t been to Dessous, go. If you have been, go again now. There’s a new menu and it leans heavily into Dan’s Thai background as well as all that is good about excellent produce and delicious flavours.
Tyler Preston is a passionate chef who discovered his love for cooking at just 12 years old in Wellington. After graduating high school, he moved to Melbourne at 18 to start his culinary adventure. With over 20 years of experience, Tyler began his career at the iconic Vegie Bar in Fitzroy, mastering the art of wok cooking. After a brief stint in music and audio engineering, Tyler returned to the kitchen, becoming Head Chef at Melbourne hotspots like Declieu and Seven Seeds and working at Chin Chin. In 2013, he and his wife opened Sir Charles cafe, which was shortlisted for Time Out’s Best Cafe. I first met Tyler and chatted to him on the podcast a couple years after that when he was at Dr Morse in Abbotsford and happily caught up with him again when he was in Byron Bay running Bang Bang. During COVID, he founded South East Canteen, offering Asian-inspired private dining and ready-made meals. In 2023, Tyler moved to Bali to join the Milk and Madu Group, launching Longtime, a modern Asian diner and bar. Tyler is thoughtful and articulate when he talks food and hospitality and we discussed the ups as well as the downs of the industry as a whole. There are definite ups where Longtime is concerned. This is an exciting project and Bali is firmly in the travel plans when Longtime opens in August.
I last spoke to Matteo Tine in 2018 at his now closed restaurant, Mr Ottorino, and when I looked back over that chat, I’d mentioned that Matteo started talking as soon as I walked in, that his enthusiasm was contagious and that talking to him felt like a really fun ride. Nothing has changed. I stepped through the door of Orlo, Matteo ran up the stairs to greet me and just started talking. It was wonderful. He gave me a tour of nearly open Orlo which is a beautiful venue with multiple zones and vibes in the heritage-listed Dyason Cordial Factory in Collingwood. The main dining room has a beautiful, curved marble bar, incredible blue stone walls and a spiral staircase and then you walk out to the alfresco courtyard out the back which has a retractable ceiling, beautiful antique Turkish doors and planter boxes with olive trees and other Mediterranean flora. Downstairs is a bar called the Cordial Club and there is a private dining area on the mezzanine. Matteo says he is going for an eclectic Mediterranean menu and a wine list where every wine is a banger. I am definitely there for that. This was such a fun chat and I can’t wait to eat at Orlo when it opens in three weeks.
Today I’m talking to Aiven Lee at Yum Sing House. Evolving from its original iteration when it opened in 2021, at Yum Sing House the spotlight is no longer on the karaoke upstairs, although you can certainly still belt out the hits should you wish, but the focus is now the culinary experience downstairs. Helmed by Malaysian-born Head Chef, Aiven who was head chef at Longrain and Mamasita, the menu is inspired by the food of Aiven’s childhood and the memories he has of his mother cooking vast amounts of food for Chinese New Year and other festivals. A house favourite for example, is the crispy-skinned roasted dry aged duck, a take on a traditional duck a l’orange with an Asian twist of spring onion, ginger and coriander. I sat down with Aiven to talk about food, family and finding your passion. Aiven has an infectious laugh so listen out for it. It will make your day. As will his food, what a great combo!
I sat down with brothers, co-owners and chefs Paramjit Singh Ahuja and Gurpreet Singh to talk about their restaurant Divine Darbar. They made me a delicious chai and talked about growing up in New Delhi and how food was a central part of their family but that they had never intended to become chefs. Paramjit has a bachelor’s degree in psychology and Gurpreet has a Masters in IT. While studying, they got part-time jobs in kitchens and they felt drawn to hospitality in such an overwhelming way that they embraced it wholeheartedly, opening Divine Darbar in December last year. They want to share the food they grew up with and are passionate about creating a whole experience for diners. Paramjit and Gurpreet were nervous about talking to me, but they had so many great things to say and this was a lovely conversation.
Le Yeahllow is a happy place. It’s bright and light and the display cases, like a jeweller’s, are full of gleaming treasures. Owner Samsky Yeung who also founded White Mojo coffee shops, opened Le Yeahllow in 2021 when he took over the former Adriano Zumbo Patisserie space in South Yarra and started baking and delivering cakes around Melbourne. Sam says, “Le Yeahllow was born from a simple idea: to create celebratory cakes that bring happiness to people's lives,” and he explains the name as being inspired by the colour yellow, embodies joy, energy and playfulness. I spoke to Le Yeahllow’s pastry chef Steven He at their CBD venue to hear all about the creative process behind the glorious, playful and inventive cakes. Le Yeahllow also sells other patisserie favourites including canelés, Paris-Brests, and financiers, but it is the surrealist creations such as le Mandarin, the Love Letter and the Ballon Puppy cake which have the wow factor and go viral on social media.
This is a bonus episode in the truffles series with Julian Hills with Navi, who kindly had a second attempt at a chat with me after my equipment failed the first time through. In 2023, Julian was named Good Food Guide's Chef of the Year, and Navi has maintained its Two Hat-status as of 2024. Julian is a creative and passionate chef; a lovely man and he has an enduring fascination with truffles. I was very happy to get to talk to him and this time share it with you.
It is always lovely to catch up with chefs and see what they are up to. I first met Salvatore Giorgio when he was at Bar Bambi and then I had my 300th chef chat with him out at Marnong Estate. Salvatore has been working in kitchens since he was 11 years old. He loves the adrenaline rush of service and appreciates a well organised kitchen and he is certainly always up for a challenge. Since starting at Bar Rosella, he has changed the menu and upped the food ante. Wine was already well sorted by owner Rocco Esposito, who was Group Director of Wine at Vue de Monde as well as owning his own hospitality businesses. He lives and breathes hospitality and Spaghetti all'Assassina may well be on your radar since Stanley Tucci’s Puglia episode came out, but Rocco is from Puglia and has been serving it every lunchtime at Rosella. It remains on Salvatore’s menu. What an absolute delight to sit down with these two men and chat about food and wine, stories and connections. Rocco even gave me a bottle of his 49 Chardonnay to take home with me. The label bears a beautiful image of the number 49 adorned with flora from his land in Beechworth as well as a bright and poignant rosella on the brink of flying away. Rocco’s motto is ‘food, wine and telling stories,’ and I think that is perfect.
Originally from Nelson in Aotearoa, New Zealand, head chef Ryan Lynch is doing creative things out in the Yarra Valley at Locavore Studio. I was lucky enough to be invited to dinner out there and the way he treats local produce is glorious. I was sure Ryan would have some things to say about truffles and I was not disappointed.
I spoke to Mark Ebbels a while ago when he was head chef at TarraWarra in the Yarra Valley. He’s still out in that beautiful area, and most recently has been working on menu creation and set up at Re’Em part of the Helen and Joey estate. Mark is a passionate and creative chef with a real heart for local Yarra Valley produce and it was such a pleasure catching up with him again and talking truffles.
This is the fourth instalment of my truffle series. In this episode, I talk to Jason Staudt at Stokehouse. I spoke to Jason quite recently and so when I turned up again on a Friday afternoon, I felt like I was catching up with an old friend. We drank wine and talked truffles and laughed a lot. It was wonderful.
This is the third instalment of my truffle series. In this episode, I talk to Jordan Clay from Pipi's Kiosk. Pipi's is one of my absolute favourite restaurants and it is always a pleasure to talk to Jordan. I am fairly certain I have secured some kind of homage to Jo Rittey vanilla and truffle ice cream, but I might be wrong. Whatever they do down there, it is always good and whether that is poutine with truffle or ice cream, I know I will be in good hands.
I recently saw an Instagram post from Robert at GGs Gourmet Food where he was heralding truffle season. It got me thinking. I don’t know much about truffles but they do seem to cause a stir in certain circles. Some refer to them as black gold, others as a culinary treasure. I wanted to find out what makes them so special, so I had a chat to Dion Range at Stonebarn Truffles in WA. He gave me the very well told back story to truffle cultivation, which was fascinating. Then I got in touch with some of the lovely chefs I have spoken to in the past to hear how they use truffles. A big thank you to Julian Hills at Navi, Anni Smithers from Du Fermier in Trentham, Mark Ebbels at Re’Em in the Yarra Valley, Jordan Clay at Pipi’s Kiosk, Jason Staudt at Stokehouse, Gabriele Coniglio at Officine Gastronomica Italiana and Ryan Lynch at Locavore Studio. Unfortunately and embarrassingly, I had some technology challenges and my excellent conversation with Julian was lost. Julian loves truffles and knows a lot about them. He runs a month of truffle dinners in July where each course celebrates a truffle from a different region of Australia, and he talks through the importance of terroir in their aroma and flavour with the lucky diners. This is definitely a dinner to look out for and secure a booking. I really enjoyed putting this series together. It’s a new concept for me and I’d love to hear your thoughts. Thank you to Robert at GGs Gourmet Foods for the inspiration and help with putting this together.
Dingo Ate My Taco are the team responsible for bringing birria tacos to Melbourne back in 2020 lock-down. And thank goodness they did. Since then, the Dingo kitchen has been pumping out authentic, and an entirely made-from-scratch menu of traditional Mexican and Texan dishes including their iconic birria, breakfast tacos (set to be the next big thing for Melbournians) plus so many other true-to-style MexTex dishes. The kitchen is headed up by Isaac Costello, who at only 22 became Head Chef and part owner of the business. When Dingo aren’t popping up in Maribyrnong or the Queen Vic Markets – where their line is the longest by far – they’re serving out of their more permanent spot, The Mill Brewery in Collingwood. I went to The Mill Brewery on a Friday afternoon, and it is glorious. The log burner was on, it was cosy, the beer is excellent and I had a lovely chat to Isaac. Then he ordered me three tacos: beef brisket, chicken and beer battered deep fried avocado and I have to say, I do not know how I have been living my life without beer battered deep fried avocado before now. Delicious. Owners Kady and Paul grew up in Texas themselves and have been giving Melbournians a slice of what tacos should really taste like alongside Isaac for nearly four years.
When you enter Mill Place Merchants, you enter another world. For a start, it’s one of those delicious hidden bars we can’t get enough of in Melbourne. Entering through a red door at the end of a laneway you find yourself in a sewing room complete with machine, mannequin and rolls of fabric and once through the full-length mirror at the end of the room, you are in the golden age of the thirties and forties speakeasy. Mill Place Merchants see themselves as ‘custodians of a tradition,’ curating cocktails that date back to the originals. The eclectic furniture and décor is cast in the glow of soft lamps and candlelight and this feels at once like home as well as the coolest bar ever. The man behind all this is Pawaan Engineer. After a long career in hotels around the world, Pawaan wanted to dive deeper into hospitality and get closer to those he worked with, to create a sense of community. He has successfully run Cuff café in the CBD for years but always dreamed of running a bar. When he saw the space in the 1840s heritage listed building off Flinders Lane, he saw past the bright white walls and strip lighting and knew he could make his vision come to life. I can’t get enough of Mill Place Merchants. Between stepping though the looking glass into the cosy golden glow, the devilled eggs and the exceptional cocktails, it is absolutely my kind of place.
The Kitchen of Somewhere is a deeply personal story of how food shapes our connection to place, the environment and most importantly our understanding of who we are. It weaves a narrative inspired by a plum-velvet, covered notebook found by Anna shortly after her mother's passing by suicide.The notebook was bursting with stories of her mother's travels, and the recipes she collected along the way. Using this notebook as a guide, Anna travelled over 64,000km to retrace her mother's steps and craft a one-of-a-kind cookbook that captures the food and the places her mother once visited in her younger years. I feel very lucky to have had the opportunity to talk to Anna ahead of her In Conversation event at Readings in The State Library and ahead of Mothers Day. Storytelling is at the heart of what I do, or at least, sharing other peoples stories and Anna is an exquisite storyteller, tapping into memory, food and place as a way of honouring her mothers life and making connections with others. $5 from the sale of each book goes towards Beyond Blue to support their work with mental health. I loved connecting with Anna over a shared love of nostalgic Aotearoa New Zealand food and hearing about the journey she took to bring The Kitchen of Somewhere to fruition. This conversation does mention suicide. If you need to talk to someone please ring Lifeline: 13 11 14 or lifeline.org.au Beyond Blue: 1300 22 4636 or beyondblue.org.au
The S.Pellegrino Young Chef Academy Competition is an annual event to support a personal vision for the world of food, demonstrating how food can have a positive impact on society at large through ethical and sustainable food practices. When it comes to choosing the judges for this prestigious award, the Academy looks for chefs who hold sustainable and ethical food sourcing as a central to their cuisine. The five judges chosen for the 2024-2025 competition are Brigitte Hafner (Tedesca Osteria, VIC, Rosheen Kaul (Etta, VIC), Josh Niland (Saint Peters, NSW), Brent Savage (Bentley Group, NSW), Jake Kellie (arkhé, SA). When asked whether I’d like to talk to one of them, I of course wanted to talk to all of them. But I have wanted to have a chat to Brigitte for years, actually from her Gertrude Street Enoteca days. I knew that I would love finding out more about Tedesca Osteria, Brigitte’s dream come true, a beautiful restaurant on a biodynamic farm and estate in Red Hill and I was also keen to know what made her become a chef in the first place. This chat was everything I knew it would be as Brigitte so articulately expressed the challenges of growing food, her passion for cooking and for the hospitality industry as well as her excitement at being asked to be a judge and working with young talent. We spoke over the phone and the only thing that would have made this conversation any better would have been to have been at Red Hill in front of the fire with Brigitte, looking out at the farm and the autumn colours she so loves.
Partners in life and love, Patrick Kwong and Cindy Pan opened Ronin almost two years ago in the space that was previously occupied by Massi and for a millisecond, Cucina Povera. The high-ceilinged industrial slab feel of the room serves as the perfect backdrop for Patrick to shine and shine he does. Patrick learned Japanese cuisine and, more specifically sushi from two Japanese masters. His technique and flavours are exceptional. But Patrick’s food is only one part of the experience at Ronin. Patrick, himself describes what he does as five nights of clubbing. That’s two sessions a night, five nights a week of Patrick DJing, preparing and serving food and entertaining guests with stories and descriptions of the food, not to mention the shots of sake in between. No wonder the waitlist for the 20 spots a night is over 4000 deep. This was such a fun chat. Patrick and Cindy clearly love what they do and they exude a passion for food and hospitality. They told me to come in for omakase, and I can’t wait to do so, but perhaps, they gently suggested, come to the earlier session. “It’s less of a club.”
Tommaso Bartoli is a passionate chef who learned to cook in Florence but felt a love for food and cooking much earlier on when he watched his mother and other family members cook. He talked about coming in from soccer training, smelling his mother’s cooking and running up the stairs. After working for a few years in restaurants in Florence, Tommaso was ready to try something else and 12 years ago came to Australia. He worked for nine and a half years at DOC and now is co-owner and chef at Park Street Pasta & Wine. I was really looking forward to going to Park Street because it felt as though every time I opened Instagram, I was seeing another post about how great it is there. It’s really great. After chatting to Tommaso, I was invited for dinner and I loved it. The dining room is cosy and intimate, the service is lovely and the food is next level. Tommaso told me about how much he loves making pasta and the two pastas I tried were incredible. The ravioli filled with smoked ricotta in a semi-dried roasted tomato sauce was delicious, but I am already think about when I can go back for the bucatini which was twirled in the plate in a saffron and lemon cream and dotted with crispy, salty pancetta. Heaven.
I drove to Sorrento on a sunny autumn day just as owners Nika, Stefano and Valentino were moving things from their original venue, Bardo a few doors down to their recently opened Sardo. I immediately felt like one of the family as Nika made me espresso and I sat down to chat with her and Valentino. Sardo is the nickname given to people from Sardinia, the same way we might call an Australian an Aussie. Valentino Mela is originally from Sardinia and grew up cooking with his grandmother and mother. The food he and Nika Perc cook is inspired by the dishes of his home country: seafood, slow-cooked meat and housemade pasta. For Nika, Stefano and Valentino, being part of the Sorrento community is important and they offer pasta nights, cooking classes and BYO no corkage nights. Over summer, the laneway leading to the restaurant from the main street and the outside area are festooned with fairy lights so that you could almost think you were in a piazza dining al fresco in Italy. The team, themselves, all go back to Italy for two years over our Australian winter when the restaurant is closed and immerse themselves in Sardinian food, family and life so they can bring that vibe back to us in September.
I went in to Flour Child as day was turning to night. Through the huge windows upstairs on Acland Street, the panorama of palm trees, the Luna Park rollercoaster and the setting sun is perfect. Where else would you want to be? As I waited to talk with executive chef, Alessandro Bellomunno, I chatted to co-owner Simon and had delicious and quite theatrical cocktails made by Michael; think, Purified Negroni with smoke. Alessandro apologised for being late, but really, it was his day off and he had just been meeting a potential subject for his submission to the Archibald Art Prize. Because you see, not only does Alessandro oversee a busy kitchen with more Flour Childs (children?) in the future, run masterclasses in the techniques involved in pinsa romana and have a young family, he is also an artist. As you can imagine, I had a lot I wanted to talk about and I was not disappointed. Alessandro has quite the story to tell. Eventually I let him get on with his day off and I ate prawns followed by pizza and felt as though I was living life like it was golden.
Larry Xie is here for a good time and that’s what he wants for guests to Bansho as well. He is the epitome of hospitality and is constantly seeking ways to learn more about food and wine and to welcome his guests with warmth and conviviality. No stranger to hospitality, Larry grew up with a family who ran coffee shops and motels in Melbourne and, as a teenager, he worked for his parents, before moving to the States for University . After a brief stint studying finance, Larry decided it wasn’t for him and felt drawn to architecture and the arts and worked for a while as an art curator. He met his wife, Mira and they decided to move back to Australia and opened two restaurants in Adelaide before coming to Melbourne to open Bansho in Armadale. Larry describes Bansho as an elevated neighbourhood bistro, combining Japanese ingredients with French technique. If you’re not quite sure what that means, you just have to go and try for yourself, but highlights from my meal were the Chawanmushi (steamed egg custard) with spanner crab, celeriac vichyssoise and avruga caviar and the poisson du Jour with arare and katsuo bushi beurre blanc. I had the best time talking to Larry and I felt as though I had made a new friend. We really could have talked for hours.
I was lucky enough to be invited to The Westin Melbourne’s nod to Wicked, the Musical, a glorious High Tea with a very prominent green focus. High Tea at The Westin is an impressive affair. The team goes all out on theme, creativity and flavour and the Wicked High Tea was no exception. I was keen to talk to Executive Chef, Apoorva Kunte about the approach behind a themed High Tea. I was also keen to talk to him again, because I had such a lovely time talking to him in 2022, and since then, he has been having all sorts of adventures and I wanted to hear more. Before moving to Australia, Apoorva worked in hotels in India and the Middle East, and he has been in kitchens for nearly 20 years. Apoorva is one of those chefs who is constantly striving to do better, to find out more and to share his knowledge with his team, as well as at the Cordon Bleu as a Student Assessor and now in his role on the Marriott APEC Culinary Advisory Board. I had the best time hearing about his latest research trip where he explored the fermentation process of cacao beans, both in terms of flavour and sustainability and he already has plans for the next several projects. You can enjoy the Wicked High Tea from now until mid-April.
I have a special place in my heart for Bar Carolina in South Yarra because I wrote about it for Concrete Playground when it opened in 2017 and I also had a Conversation with a chef with the chef at the time, Paolo Masciopinto. But I hadn’t been out the back before and when new head chef Pieter Buijsse suggested going out through the kitchen to his office, I was thrilled. Walking out through the action is my idea of a good time. Happily wedged into the tiniest office I have ever seen with a cup of espresso and a chef who started working in restaurants at the age of 12, I was hanging off Pieter’s every word. Pieter grew up in Holland, five minutes from the Belgian border, eventually working his way through a two and then three-star Michelin restaurant before meeting Aussies in South America and deciding Melbourne would be the next adventure. 10 years on with senior roles at Point Leo Estate and Jackalope under his belt, as well as being part of the 2022 Melbourne Food and Wine Festival’s 30 under 30, Pieter is firmly part of the Melbourne culinary landscape. This was a great chat. Pieter is articulate and knowledgeable and I had a lovely time.
When diners walk into Desi Dhaba, owner Amit Tuteja wants them to feel as though they have come home to India. The decor is bright and cheerful, and the food is rustic, filling and delicious. Named after the highway eateries, or Dhaba, in India where truckies and people on road trips call in to eat local treats, Desi Dhaba is all about using local produce with raw spices and recipes direct from India. Amit is a veteran of the hospitality industry, arriving in Melbourne from Delhi when he was 20. He has worked in New Zealand as well as Melbourne and now owns six restaurants across the city, having once said that he would never get into Indian food. Amit started talking as soon as I came into Desi Dhaba and I was delighted with his stories as well as the two cups of delicious masala chai I had. This was an afternoon chat and Amit made me promise that I would come back for dinner with my partner one day. I can't wait.
Today I am talking to Jake Read at Neptune in Windsor. I’ve always had a soft spot for Neptune ], so what better excuse to head back over there than a new head chef. Last year, after 12 years working in the UK across Michelin and boutique hotel restaurants as well as running his own private dining business, Jake Read felt drawn to Melbourne. He had been following some Melbourne venues on social media, but says when he sat down and ate at the likes of Old Palm Liquor and Liberty Bar, he knew he was in the right place and couldn’t wait to get stuck in. After a stint at Scott Pickett’s Matilda, Jake has taken over the head chef reins at Neptune, where he has slightly steered the menu back towards its Mediterranean and smaller plate origins. Jake and I sat in the beautiful function room upstairs and after our lovely chat, we went downstairs and he treated me to some delicious snacks: a really rich and tasty scallop with salumi XO, a punchy umami filled eggplant toast with miso and cashew and then a dish he has been playing with and which I absolutely loved, a perfectly cooked potato cake with crème fraiche and the pop of salmon roe. My two favourite things are great conversations and delicious food, and all my boxes were ticked. Thanks to Jake and the team at Neptune for being so great. Now I’ve tried out a new little sound effect at the beginning as a segue to arriving and then going upstairs. Let me what you think about it.
Sebastian Pasinetti is no stranger to hospitality, being born into a hospo family and taking the plunge himself at 15. He is the co-founder of OKO Restaurant, OKO Rooftop & Cafe and OKO Catering and a proud queer Person of Colour. Sebastian is also the Co-Founder of Minds en Place, a hospitality hub for diversity, wellbeing and hospitality and the Head of Partnerships at Kelly's Cause Foundation, a charity that trains Mental Health First Aiders specifically in the hospitality industry across the UK and Australia. Sebastian is also an ambassador for men's health charity, Movember, and works to help destigmatise conversations around mens health within the hospitality, queer and broader communities. And he is the nicest person to sit down and talk with. I first came across Sebastian when I read about OKO Restaurant and their policy for inclusive hiring and the traffic light system for dealing with mental health amongst their staff, which we get into in the conversation. I asked him if I could chat to him then and he suggested I talk to his mum and head chef Kim Maree-Moore, which I did and it was wonderful. Since then I have been to a couple of the panel discussions he has facilitated to get people talking about mental health in hospitality. I was excited to sit down with Sebastian and I relished every moment of our chat. He is so articulate and has such a heart for the wellbeing of others and I appreciate how generous he was with how much he shared. This was a wonderful conversation and I am so happy I get to share it with you.
I was first aware of Rosemary Andrews in 2021 through her glorious creations on the dessert trolley at Attica’s Summer Camp. That was an absolute thing of beauty as it was wheeled out almost groaning under the weight of such divine and delicious creations. Then later that year, these gravity defying layer cakes started appearing on my Instagram feed: Espresso, Valrhona Cocoa and Hazelnut, Eight layer carrot cake, Burnt honey, toasted wattleseed and dulche de leche. Then there were the tarts and cheesecakes. Rosemary was bringing joy to Melburnians in Lockdown though her weekly dessert boxes and I think she broke the Internet, well social media, at any rate. You can imagine the collective excitement when she announced that she was opening a bricks and mortar cake shop in Malvern. Mietta means ‘sweet little thing’ in Italian and is the perfect way to describe the goodness Rosemary is putting up. It is also the perfect way to describe this tiny patisserie with its white marble bench, gold and glass cloches and a mini gilded bar trolley reminiscent of the one at Attica Summer Camp. Rosemary and I chatted about her love of baking, but more importantly the happiness her baking brings to people, as well as the challenges of running your own business and deciding on the look you want for it. I had been trying for a while to talk to Rosemary and it was absolutely worth the wait.
I caught up with Murat Ovaz at I Carusi II in St. Kilda and I felt as though I was catching up with an old friend. I spoke to Murat when he opened Yagiz in South Yarra about six years ago and that was a fun conversation about the adventures that had got him into hospitality and becoming a chef. The food at Yagiz was next level. Murat was putting up clever interpretations of the food he grew up with in Turkey and his creativity and talent earned him a loyal following. The person I had a coffee and chat with today was a much more relaxed version of the Murat I first met. Stepping into the kitchen and becoming co-owner of southside pizza institution, I Carusi II, was the change Murat needed and we talked about how he got there, what he has learned about pizza, as well as next week’s Four Hands dinner with friend and celebrity chef, Colin Fassnidge to celebrate I Carusi II’s 20th anniversary. This chat was everything I love about Conversation with a Chef; getting to sit down and hear such great stories about peoples’ lives and passion is a privilege, and I am endlessly grateful.
Matthew Butcher is a larger-than-life character, who loves hugs as greetings and immediately made me feel at home and as though I was talking to an old friend when I went in to talk to him at Ronnie’s. Matthew talked a lot about how lucky he has been in following his dad’s advice to surround himself with good people, having worked for Shannon Bennett and Ryan Clift at Vue de Monde and Josh Emett and Gordon Ramsay in New York and at Maze in Melbourne. He has also done the hard yards and that combined with a genuine love for hospitality and for people is reflected in his ETO Collective group of venues. Now, I did actually try to count up the various restaurants and bars that are part of this group and then Matthew mentioned a couple of others that are opening soon, so let’s just say that he has an impressive portfolio of places where delicious food and a fun vibe are the priority. This was such a treat of a conversation and such a pleasure to share with you.
Nordic-inspired Freyja, (the golden teared goddess of Norse mythology) the glorious two-level restaurant on Collins Street was the last piece in Soren Trampedach’s puzzle to bring people together to work and play in his Work Club Global human eco-system. It also stands alone as a statement restaurant headed in the kitchen by Michelin star chef Jae Bang. For Jae, the Nordic approach to Australian cuisine that informs Freyja’s style isn’t just about the food, although he is using traditional and ancient culinary methods such as pickling, curing, smoking, preserving, and lacto-fermenting. For Bang, it is also about harnessing the Nordic approach to work-life balance. If you’re not sure what that might look like, we go into it in quite a lot of depth in the following conversation. I first met Jae when I wrote about Freyja in 2022 and then had an incredible degustation in the dining room with its heritage brick walls, vast Gothic cathedral windows and curvaceous slatted timber ceiling - a nod to the boats of Nordic maritime history. This time we went downstairs into one of the quieter meeting spaces and sat at a huge timber table made with the boards of an ancient Nordic ship. We talked work life balance, food, Jae’s absolutely peripatetic and adventurous formation years from Seoul to Osaka to New York to Catalonia to Stavanger and then Melbourne. We also talked about his upcoming 4 Hands dinner he and visiting French chef, Hugo Souchet will be cooking over three nights at Frejya. Hugo is chef de cuisine at Les Prés d’Eugénie, Michel Guerard’s restaurant which has retained its three Michelin stars since 1977. The pair will put up 6 courses as well as showcasing Sturia Caviar and French champagne, Pernet et Pernet. These dinners are next week on the 8th, 9th and 10th of February, so as soon as youhave listened to this episode, jump on the Freyja restaurant site and book your spot.
I met Juan Berbeo on Christmas Eve in the entrance to my apartment building. He was wearing an apron and I asked if he was doing some cooking. He replied, “Yes, I’m a chef.” You can imagine my excitement. We had a brief chat in the lift and to my delight, he agreed to talk to me for Conversation with a chef. Juan is Executive Chef and the guy behind the concept of Berbeo Bros. Arriving in Melbourne from Colombia 14 years ago, he worked at Pastuso, MoVida and Rockpoolbefore opening Berbeo Bros with his brother Sebastian. The brothers are the third generation of Berbeo butchers and cooks, with their family having been in hospitality for over 50 years in Colombia. Grandparents, then parents catered for 1000 covers a day in a restaurant on the road between Colombia’s capital Bogota and Fusagasugá, a central region of the Andes mountains, and Juan says he “grew up in the pots”, working with his parents from a very young age. Juan is passionate about sharing Colombian street food and he does that at his restaurant in South Melbourne, wholesaling products around Australia and at countless festivals and farmers markets. What sets Berbeo Bros apart from other barbecued meat is that they cook their marinated meat on a vertical “spinner” over red gum charcoal. Such is the following they have garnered for this style of cooking, that Juan and his team are set to start producing and selling home spinners. I’m keen to get along to the next festival and check it all out for myself. Talking to Juan made me so hungry! I’ll keep you posted and maybe see you there.
If you’re into excellent croissants and inventive viennoiserie (think chocolate fondant croissants), you’ll have heard of Penny for Pound. Pastry chef, Matilda Smith, and her partner in life and business, Ben Wilson opened their original hole in the wall shop in Richmond in 2018. They quickly garnered a following and Penny for Pound became the go-to spot for Richmond locals craving the perfect croissant fix. What’s even better, croissants are baked three times daily, at 8am, 10am and midday, so if you time it right, you can get a warm, buttery croissant straight from the oven. The pair then went on to expand their business to a shop in Camberwell, a new space in Richmond when the old place was no longer available and a 100-square-meter HQ in Moorabbin's Morris Moor precinct. It’s not all about the croissants anymore. With two production kitchens, a 130-seat cafe, and a dine-in menu that caters to every palate, it’s an impressive operation. Matilda took me for a tour of the kitchens and then we sat down and had a chat about how she got into it, where she gets her inspiration and how much she loves teaching and passing on her knowledge. Matilda changes the menu monthly at Penny for Pound and coming up, there will be a chocolate fondant croissant for Valentine’s Day and then hot cross buns: traditional, single origin chocolate, coffee using coffee from Axil and a sticky date and caramel. In addition, Matilda and Ben have opened Holla Gelato next door to the Moorabbin store and Matilda is working on a hot cross bun ice cream sandwich which will have burnt butter and salted honey gelato in the middle of a toasted hot cross bun. I’ll leave that with you.
I drove to Geelong on a sunny day at the start of January to talk to Eddie Basich. We had a coffee at Pavilion Geelong, and it was full summer carnival vibes. People were having picnics, the pool and waterfront were packed and there was a cruise ship out in the bay. Eddie is a private chef with 37 years’ experience cooking in hotel and restaurant kitchens here and in the UK. What he loves most about being a chef is the opportunity to teach people about food, younger chefs but also the diners. He delights in watching peoples’ faces when they taste his food. We talked perfect pomme purée, how to correctly season and the importance of family and where your family is from. ‘Food, glorious food’ is one of Eddie’s mantras and that really came through as we spoke. As well as his private chef gigs, Eddie is looking forward to more media and networking opportunities and he is all about sharing his love and knowledge about food and cooking.
Elia Donati has loved food and cooking since a young age, watching his mamma and nonna in the kitchen preparing his favourite meals. It wasn’t until he was 22 and in search of adventure on the other side of the world that he started learning to cook professionally. As soon as Elia moved to Melbourne he fell in love with it, and he particularly loved discovering all the cuisines we have here, in particular, Asian and American, which were a departure from the Italian food he grew up with. Having worked in a few different venues, Elia has discovered that what he really loves is the one-on-one contact he can have with diners as a private chef. He loves entertaining through food, ambiance and the role food can play in connecting people. He is also working on a line of his own products, including a delicious coffee, as well as a project aimed at bringing families together over food, Cooking Bond. This was a lovely chat about food, becoming a chef, growing vegetables and some really great advice for cooking the perfect steak.
The term Madeleine de Proust refers to the powerful and evocative sensory trigger that elicits vivid memories and emotions, often associated with Marcel Proust's literary exploration of involuntary memory in his novel "In Search of Lost Time", in French A la Recherche du Temps Perdu. This phenomenon highlights the profound connection between sensory experiences, such as taste or smell, and the retrieval of deeply buried memories, creating a nostalgic and introspective journey through time. Proust’s narrator bites into the little scallop shaped teacake he has dipped in his tea and is transported back to his childhood, resulting in seven volumes (it’s the world’s longest novel) where Proust, through a semi-autobiographical narrator seeks to make sense of his memories. Hiyoju Park wants to bring up good memories and create a sense of shared nostalgia and belonging through her delicate little cakes, so calling her shop, Madeleine de Proust was the obvious choice. Ju, along with partner Rong Yao Soh are creating incredibly intricate as well as delicious desserts, but all in the form of the madeleine and all representing particular memories and connections. From the simplest classic, unfilled madeleine hot from the oven, through to the prestige line and Tipsy Arabica, which combines the robust flavours of coffee and whisky in a dark chocolate ganache and from start to finish tales three days to make, these little beauties will certainly transport you. We actually got so caught up in the goodness of it all and other aspects of making it as a chef that we didn’t even mention the four years Ju was head chef at Attica. Maybe that’s for another time. It was good to dwell entirely on her own creations. When I went in to talk to Ju, I tried the SSUK, which is a mugwort madeleine filled with mugwort cream and recalls Ju’s own childhood and her grandmother’s rice cakes in Korea. It was soft and light with a creamy, slightly earthy and delicious flavour. I can’t wait to go back and try the other flavours.
I went to have a chat to head chef, Jason Yong at Wagyu Ya Teppenyaki at The Glen. Now I hadn’t been to The Glen before, so rookie mistake, I followed Google Maps which led me to a carpark that ended up being at the polar opposite end of the mall and I did spend quite a bit of time trying to find the restaurant. But it is actually not that hard at all. Come in off Springvale Road, and it is up on the top level near David Jones. The fit out is all beautiful timber and lovely lighting. I absolutely hit the jackpot because, not only did I get to speak to Jason, I also sat down with acclaimed sushi chef, Wataru Sato, who had Bistro Goemon in Elsternwick and has worked at Nobu, as well as saucier Hori Shinshuke, who has a 15-year-plus career specialising in Japanese, French, and Italian cookery. Jason runs the teppan section and if you want culinary theatrics, this is the place to come. There is fire and super sharp knife and cooking over coals skills as well as smoky cocktails and all round lovely conversation. The restaurant has been split into four spaces with counter seating at the grill, booth seating, a private dining room, and a sushi bar, and extensive menu options. This chat was an absolute delight.
Natalie Jefferson is passionate about food and keen to share that passion with others. After years in kitchens in Melbourne and London and a long stint running her own café, Our Kitchen Table, Nat has taken a side step into the kitchen of our Food Studies Department at school. You can imagine my reaction when she was introduced at a staff meeting as the new Food Studies Assistant and former chef. I made a beeline to talk to her. Recently my Year 7 French classes have been learning about food and ordering in a restaurant and we took them down to the Food Studies department for a tasting session, which they of course loved. Nat and the Food Studies teacher, Jennie, did a glorious job bringing food vocabulary to life and leading the students through eating with the senses as well as interesting facts about the various dishes. Food really brings people together and brings so much joy and that’s what Nat loves about hospitality, cooking for others and now sharing that with students.
I don't know about you, but the luxury hotel world feels like another dimension to me; a glamourous, celebrity-filled world. Then there are the people behind the scenes who make it all happen. My only insight into their world is through White Lotus, The Night Manager and The Grand Budapest Hotel, which are documentaries, right? I was invited to a glorious Melbourne Cup Day Champagne breakfast at The Westin in Collins Street and I was welcomed into a group of General Managers and other hotel industry people who were swapping stories of their various posts around the world. I inhaled that. Fascinating. I met SJ in that group and when I said what I did, she told me I absolutely must talk to Justin Dingle-Garciyya. So I did. Justin has travelled the world as a chef, although he originally thought he would be a professional baseball player. When that didn't pan out, he found himself in the kitchen and he loved it. Inspired by the books he read by the likes of Marco Pierre White and Raymond Blanc, he propelled himself on a career trajectory that led to top chef and culinary director roles in luxury hotels. And now, with all that in mind he reckons he has a book in him too. It won't be a cookbook though, it'll be tales of all he has seen in hotels across the globe. I think, why stop at a book, this was a cinematic ride of a conversation and totally up there with the 'documentaries' on which I based my original impression of hotel life. For now, Justin is involved with opening The Standard, Melbourne, in Fitzroy, the first of the LA-based group's Australian hotels.
I had a lovely chat to Jake Furst earlier this year and then had an incredible wine lunch at Cinder, one of the restaurants he oversees. I have also been wanting to talk to his younger brother, Zackary, head chef at Bar Liberty for a while so when I saw they were collaborating on a four-course dinner that channels their Polish roots, I couldn’t think of anything better than hearing all about it from both of them. Zack has just got back from travelling Poland from top to bottom, visiting family and eating all the food and he is eager to share what he discovered over there. The brothers grew up in a big family with 40 or 50 people around at Christmas and lots of food and from hearing them talk, it feels a little like the dinner at Cinder will be a more elevated version of the trestle tables under the carport and the free-flowing vodka, but with the same vibe. It was such a pleasure being part of the easy brotherly chit chat. Jake and Zack have worked together in the past and enjoy jumping on the pans together at family get-togethers so their Polish dinner will be an absolute treat and this conversation was pure delight. Getting to sit down with this year’s AHA (Vic) Chef of the Year, Jake, and the 2021 Young Chef of the Year (Zack) was an incredible opportunity and then to hear them finishing each other’s sentences and planning a trip to Poland together was the absolute dream and I am excited for you to hear this.
Alessandro Tintori grew up on a farm in Tuscany and so when he talks about cooking with the seasons, it’s not just a cliche, it’s a way of life. Having started his chef life in Italy, with a two-year stint in London, and some time in Sydney, luckily for us, Alex now calls Melbourne home. After a wonderful six years working at Il Bacaro with David Dellai, the opportunity arose for Alex with friend and front of house manager, Roby Giannetta to buy Sosta Ristorante in North Melbourne with business partner, Frank Remoundos. Three weeks in and Alex is happily bringing his love of the seasons, foraging and fermentation to Errol Street and is cooking modern Italian food with Australian produce. Alex thinks about food 23/7 and mentions his suppliers as the real heroes, favouring organic produce and hormone and antibiotic-free meat. Sitting in Sosta at dusk as the evening sun slants through the blinds on the window, the art deco lights are switched on and you are handed a beautifully illustrated menu featuring glorious dishes and a glass of rosso di Montalcino must be up there with the loveliest of lovely experiences as you anticipate the night ahead.
I had dinner at Officina Gastronomica Italiana a couple of weeks ago and loved everything about it, from the exposed brick walls to the art deco lighting to the wall of wine. The food and wine were delicious too, but the thing I loved most about Officina Gastronomica Italiana was owner Claudio Casoni and the obvious love he has for hospitality and sharing the food and wine of his region, Emilia-Romagna. He told us some glorious stories on the night, so I knew that getting to sit down with him for a one on one chat would be a good time. I was not wrong. Claudio and I talked for an hour and explored all kinds of things about what brought him to Melbourne, his memories of making pasta with his nonna, there was a deep dive into natural wines, coffee and we also talked about the menu at OGI. I had a velvety, chocolatey espresso and I’m not sure I can ever drink coffee elsewhere. Claudio imports the beans from his friend, Manuel Terzi in Bologna and I don’t think you have tasted Italian coffee until you drink this coffee. Extraordinary. I was hanging off Claudio’s every word. It was such a treat to hear his story and I am delighted to be able to share it with you.
Nada Thomas is the new head chef at Her. It turns out I actually know her sister-in-law and when I mentioned I had chatted to Nada, Belinda described her as a “pocket rocket, and we love her.” Nada exudes love for cooking and hospitality. She loves what she does, loves her team and it feels as though she has an endless supply of ideas for menus in the future. This current menu is an expression of Nada’s love for European cooking. Having worked at The Press Club and ten years at Cecconi’s, Nada’s menu draws inspiration from Italian, French and Spanish traditions with a soupcon of her Turkish heritage. I have long been a fan of Her with its layers of goodness from the rooftop bar to BKK, and my absolute dream of a bar, the Record Room and the ground level Her Bar with its chic modern glam. Nada has added another layer of loveliness to this venue and I had such a good time talking to her.
Mariana Chedid is an exquisite pâtissiere. She also wants to change the world for the better, starting with the people she meets on her life journey as well as those she works with and who come into Brulee Patisserie in Port Melbourne. Mariana discovered a love for cooking by accident when she was working in hospitality while studying architectural technology. Around the time she decided to pursue cooking, she was reading Julia Child’s book, My Love of France, and decided to follow in her footsteps and learn cooking at Le Cordon Bleu in Paris. After internships at both the prestigious Parisian institution, La Tour d’Argent and iconic patisserie, Gateau Thoumieux, Mariana brought her love for cooking back to Melbourne. Brulee Patisserie is like a little portal into France in its décor, music and the delicious croissants and French cakes and the aroma as you enter the door is enough to transport you. And as if Mariana wasn’t already quite the wonder woman, she recently teamed up with podcaster, JP, to create Through the eyes of a chef, a YouTube channel and Instagram account which sees the pair embark on a mission to explore new tastes, textures, and aromas, and sharing their discoveries with the viewer. Despite JP’s vision impairment, he exudes a passion for exploration, adventure, and a deep appreciation for life's finer aspects. This was such an inspiring conversation and I came away feeling all the better for having met Mariana.
I spoke to Martin Goffin about 4 ½ years ago and it was a pleasure driving out to Red Hill on the Mornington Peninsula again to see how he is going and what’s happening now for Red Gum BBQ. Originally from the east coast of England, Martin discovered a love for barbecue through his American-born wife, Melissa, and left a job in local government to pursue the pit master life. He spent some time in the States learning as much as he could and then set up a mobile barbecue company here in 2013 before he found and converted a mechanic’s garage into a 900m2 restaurant and smokehouse in 2017. Nowadays in addition to the two and a half tonne converted LPG tanks he had made into smokers by Paul at Silver Creek Smokers, he has, himself, made three pig cookers which each take a whole butterflied pig that he cooks slowly over the coals. He has also perfected an over-the coals burger, puts up a subscription box every month that heroes a different US state’s traditional barbecue dish, has his own retail range of rubs and sauces and is about to open a new outlet in Seaford. There was a lot to talk about and, as always, I loved it all.
Today I’m talking to Adam Mumford from Soult, salt with soul, a premium flavoured salt that gives back to the community. 100% of their profits go to Mental Health Charities or Foundations that focus on post suicide support and suicide prevention. In Australia, this is Standby and Mental Wheels and Healthy Heads in Trucks and Sheds. We do talk about suicide in this episode, which can be distressing. If you need resources or support go to beyondblue.org or for 24 hour free counselling in Australia, the number for Lifeline is 13 11 14, please look after yourself. Adam was very honest and generous in what he shared with me, and I appreciate that and feel grateful that I am able to share this important conversation. Adam is a real foodie so there is also a lot of talk about how this business came about, where the salt is from and lots of great ideas for how to use the four different flavoured salts on offer; lemon myrtle, chilli chocolate, salty sweet and rosemary and garlic.
James Gibson is the loveliest man. He exudes warmth, friendliness and absolute passion for food and chef life. Originally from Leeds, James got into the kitchen as a way to get out of school and hasn’t looked back. After six years working for the Arbory crew and working his way up through the ranks, he is now Executive chef of Arbory and Afloat, the seasonal venue on the Yarra. This year Afloat is Afloat Viva Mexico and James joined the team on a research trip to Mexico to source the best of the best to bring back to a potentially hot Melbourne summer. Afloat opened for the season a week ago and the balmy weather has already come to the party. There are cocktails on tap and an extensive menu of tacos, raw dishes, tortas and tostadas. I can highly recommend the mojito and the baja fried fish taco and I’m already looking forward to going back for more.
Anthony Femia is a cheesemonger. Not just any cheesemonger, but an internationally recognised cheesemonger who regularly sets off on wandering cheesemonger trips around the world and in 2018 was the first Australian cheesemonger to be invited to the caves of Marcel Petite in the Jura mountains in France to select his very own flavour profile of Comté. Luckily for us, Anthony calls Melbourne home and in 2015 he opened Maker and Monger in the Prahran Market, so you can get along there and sample the glorious Comté for yourselves. But that’s not all, there is all kind of cheesy goodness going on down there and Anthony very much sees the cheesemonger role as one of educator as much as seller of cheese. He loves it. Having spent over a decade refining his own knowledge, here and overseas, through reading, research and tasting and of course by spending time with master cheesemongers and top cheesemakers, he very happily imparts his fromage largesse. I felt honoured to sit down with Anthony and get a glimpse of that knowledge and we honestly could have talked for hours about seasonality, affinage and what makes a good blue cheese. To celebrate eight years of the ‘chapel of cheese’, as Anthony likes to refer to the permanent stand in the Prahran Market, he has been running a Friends of Fromage series over August and this will continue into September with every weekend featuring toasties made by iconic Melbourne chefs. So far tastebuds have been treated by friends of the podcast, Dave Verheul, Shannon Martinez and Tom Sarafian, so I’d be blocking out the next few weekends if I were you and heading down to Prahran Market.
I feel very lucky to get to talk to incredible chefs, most of them with many year’s experience in the industry. I often ask chefs what their advice would be to people at the start of their career and I have heard so many gems. It seems apt then, every now and then to chat to one of those chefs who might appreciate that advice, someone who is just starting out and to hear how things are going as they embark on their journey. Dev Gandhi is one of these young chefs. Dev got in touch with me through Instagram to say how much he enjoyed Conversation with a chef and to invite me to his inaugural Cooking, Culture, Connection event. I couldn’t make it, unfortunately, but I could tell that he was passionate about what he was doing and I invited him onto the podcast. Dev moved to Melbourne from India a year ago to study cookery at Le Cordon Bleu. Dev and I talked about what made him swap finance for food, as well as how it is all going now he has his Cert. III, is working on Cert IV as well as working for Delaware North at the MCG and running his passion project, Cooking, Culture, Connection. We also talked about his childhood food memories and how inspirational his mum was and is in it all. Dev’s eyes light up when he talks about food and this was a lovely conversation.
What a divine experience to talk to David Zhou at Oriental Teahouse in South Yarra on the eve of their 20th birthday celebrations. David is softly spoken with a wealth of wisdom and knowledge about his teas, hospitality and people. While we spoke, I was treated to a glorious pot of David’s calm concentrate tea, made with goji berries, lychees and other ingredients and which became more and more caramel flavoured as the conversation went on and is designed to nourish the heart and sharpen your mind. I also ate incredibly flavoursome twice cooked ginger prawn dumplings which are pan fried and then steamed in ginger juice and the chilli wagyu beef dumplings marinated in kaffir lime in a homemade chili oil.. The 20-year celebrations will bring together the Yum Cha experience diners have come to love over the last two decades and will be happening in both the CBD and South Yarra venues on the 23rd and 24th August. If you know, you know, and you can expect such beauties and the Lamb Cumin dumplings from 2015, Treasure Dumplings from 2005 and the cheese and bacon spring rolls from 2018. There will be other dishes as well as tea tasting and a really good chance to appreciate all the work that David and his family have put into making Oriental Teahouse what it is today.
Dale Kemp began his cooking career back home in Aotearoa, New Zealand. Although he had always been aware of and interested in the fact his grandmother was a great cook - she had a huge garden and grew fruit and vegetables throughout the year – he didn’t think about becoming a chef until he got an after-school job at 16 as a dishwasher at the Boat Shed Café in Nelson. He loved the sounds, the aromas, and the adrenaline you get from a busy service. This was at the Boat Shed Cafe in Nelson, New Zealand. After working there and at other venues around the South Island, as well as completing his qualifications, Dale moved to Melbourne when he was 18 and began working at Hammer and Tong in Fitzroy under Emma Jeffery and Simon Ward. After Hammer and Tong, he worked at Little Big Sugar Salt on Victoria Street in Abbotsford as sous chef before starting at Terror Twilight also as sous chef. A few months later, he took over the head chef role and five years on he is executive chef of the group with 4 venues and a thriving catering kitchen. I sat down with Dale at Convoy in Moonee Ponds on a chilly Melbourne morning and had a really great coffee. It’s a beautiful space with white walls, pale wood and a lot of lush plants on the huge deck. The menu is no run-of-the-mill café fare offering a very popular Turkish eggs dish as well as cinnamon scroll pancakes, a king prawn roll and a steak frites sandwich amongst other delicious options. Convoy turns one this week and they are offering free coffees on Friday. But I reckon you are in for a treat any time you go. And if you like great music, the other venues, Terror Twilight and Hifi spin vast amounts of vinyl as well as producing tasty wholesome food.
I went in to chat to Adrian Richardson at La Luna Bistro on a rainy Saturday afternoon when a wedding lunch was winding up in the downstairs dining room and the staff were prepping for evening service. Longstanding restaurant manager, Linda thrust a glass of wine into my hand and Adrian and I went for a tour of the cool room where they dry age ALL the meat. I don’t think I have seen so much meat in one place, but of course that is what La Luna is known for and for good reason. When you have had a dedicated butcher on staff for 16 years – Angelo Marchetti – you know a restaurant is serious about its meat. We then climbed the narrow stairs to the second floor where the salami, lardo and prosciutto hangs and sat in the office as the printer churned out the menus for the night. Photos hang on the wall of Adrian at various stages of his career and of his grandfather, also a chef, who graduated in 1936 from Westminster College in London and was the founding chef of Balzac, the iconic restaurant in Melbourne owned by Mirka and Georges Mora. There was so much to talk to Adrian about. La Luna is about to celebrate its 25-year anniversary, no mean feat with all that has happened in recent years and even right at opening when the 1998 Victorian gas crisis happened, and La Luna had only been open a few weeks. Adrian had to cook using a BBQ to keep the restaurant going. Then there was the C word time we don’t like to mention when the restaurant was closed for two years, but even that marked a turning point for Adrian where he realised he didn’t need to and didn’t want to work all the hours he was working. Having said that, he had just arrived back from Brisbane where he co-owns a restaurant and he has all sorts of projects and collaborations and events that he does. Then there’s his television career, Ready, Steady, Cook in the nineties, Boys Weekend, Good Chef, Bad Chef and he appeared on Iron Chef USA. It is clear that Adrian lives and breathes food and hospitality and it was such a pleasure to talk to him.
I went in to Pipi’s Kiosk halfway through May to talk to co-owner and chef, Jordan Clay. I am a long time fan of Pipi’s, because of its setting right on the beach looking out across Port Philip Bay and of course, because of the food. When I spoke to Jordan, we had just put an offer on an apartment in Port Melbourne and I thought to myself, imagine if we get this and I can just walk down the beach and have a glass of wine and some fish at Pipi’s. So when we were successful with the apartment and had got over the move, that’s exactly what I did. Ben Parkinson is head chef at Pipi’s and on the day I went in for that living-life-like-its-golden moment, he had a sardine special on that blew my mind. Plump butterflied sardines served with lardo on pickled daikon and grated frozen kumquat. Dish of the year so far. SO, of course I suggested to Ben that I come back and have a chat with him. He graciously accepted, even coming in on his day off, which we discussed along with his thoughts on chef life, why he thinks cooking is a craft and not an art, but he absolutely loves it, and of course, the sardines. Ben is thoughtful and articulate and clearly passionate about what he does and I could have talked to him for hours. But we certainly packed a lot into an hour and you are in for a treat.
I went in to Stokehouse at golden hour as the glow of the late afternoon sun bathed the dining room. Winter is the best time for sunsets, they told me, and as I left after chatting to Jason, the sky was awash with deep coral. It’s a stunning dining room. Who wouldn’t want to sip wine and eat glorious food looking out over Port Philip Bay? It’s even more stunning once you know how intentional the rebuild was post-2014 fire. Owner Frank Van Haandel wants to contribute to a world his grandchildren will enjoy and to that end, worked with designers, architects and chefs to create a sustainable building and sustainable practices. Leading the kitchen and the sustainability goal is Jason Staudt who began his career at the age of 15, attending cooking school at S.A.I.T, before completing his training at The River Café in Calgary. He then moved to the Alaskan and Northern British Colombian regions to work on a private yacht, catching the seafood he would then go on to cook and serve. After several years working at some of the world’s best restaurants, in Canada, some stages in London and New York, Jason moved to Newcastle in Australia and then Matt Moran’s Aria at Barangaroo House, Sydney. Over the eight years he was there, Jason climbed the ranks to Head Chef and also worked on the road with Matt before transferring to Moran’s neighbouring Barangaroo House restaurant Bea. In 2019 Jason moved to Melbourne to lead the Stokehouse Kitchen. One of the main reasons the move to Stokehouse felt right for Jason was Van Haandel’s views on a deep commitment to sustainability and we talked at length about this. I learned a lot from talking to Jason and I can’t way to get back to Stokehouse at sunset to soak up more of the joy.
Scott Lord was born in Dunedin in Aotearoa, New Zealand, and knew from a young age that he wanted to pursue hospitality as a career. After a few years of working under various chefs, he joined the multi-award-winning restaurant Pier 24 as Chef de Partie, working alongside Michael Coughlin at the St Clair eatery. When Scott and his wife moved to Melbourne in 2015, he secured the role of chef de partie at Cumulus Inc. before joining Commune Group’s modern Japanese restaurant Tokyo Tina as head chef for two years. He then joined the Sunda Dining family as sous chef before returning to the Commune Group to take on the head chef role at New Quarter, changing its offering to focus on Neo-Vietnamese and bringing in his modern interpretation of some favourite Vietnamese hits such as banh mi finger, beef tartare and duck floss noodles. Last year Scott jumped to Balaclava to help launch Moonhouse, bringing Chinese cuisine to a bistro setting and his commitment to the restaurant group saw him quickly promoted to Executive Chef of New Quarter and Moonhouse. I met Scott at Moonhouse on a Monday when the restaurant is closed, but he had lit the fire upstairs and we sat in the beautiful art deco curve of the building on a table positioned under a beautiful chandelier. Scott is calm and articulate, and it’s easy to see why he has risen though the ranks of a top Melbourne hospo group so quickly. He cares about his team, loves the food and is super aware of the diners’ experience. Moonhouse should definitely be on your list of places to go.
What an absolute treat to talk to Tom Sarafian. Often described as the unofficial king of hummus, the best hummus maker in Australia, hummus expert, Tom certainly has a passion for hummus and he has put a lot of time and thought into perfecting his product. At one point in the conversation, he waxed lyrical about each of the ingredients and I loved it! At another point in the chat, we went on a Lebanese pine nut tangent and it was the absolute best. Obviously Tom isn’t just the hummus king, he has earned the reputation of a hard-working, inspired and creative chef at all the venues he has worked at. When I spoke to Joseph Abboud from Rumi and Bar Saracen a few years ago, he was quick to acknowledge Tom as a driving force in his kitchen and “an absolutely beautiful cook.” Diners are excited when Tom announces pop-ups and I think we are all excited at the prospect that Tom will one day open his own place. For now, you can eat Tom’s food this weekend at the Broadsheet x Free to Feed event on Saturday and you can buy his hummus, toum and harissa at All Are Welcome, Baker Bleu, Meatsmith and Morning Market Fitzroy and Prahran.
Everyone calls Chanon Boriharnvanakhet Chachi, so I am just going along with that too. Chachi is head chef at Tonka, having taken over the reins three and a half months ago. It’s his first head chef role, having never really set out to climb the ranks, and so he is feeling his way carefully, talking to staff, feeling the room and making the role his own. Chachi is a thoughtful chef; thoughtful about the Australian ingredients he wants to bring in to dishes and thoughtful about the way he works with staff to assure their wellbeing. I went in to Tonka right before lunch service and it was all happening. Tables were being set, glasses polished, ice buckets readied. I felt lucky to be part of it and lucky to get to talk to Chachi at the start of this head chef role at such an iconic Melbourne venue. When I spoke to owner Mykal Bartholomew for a Broadsheet article on the new direction for Coda and Tonka, Mykal described Tonka as a beast. It might be a narrow restaurant, but it’s long and there are a lot of covers. I get the feeling Chachi has it all in hand.
I met Hendri Budiman when I was writing an article for Broadsheet about the new direction of Coda and Tonka now that co-owner and executive chef, Adam D’Sylva has moved on. I really loved the way he talked about food as well as all the different restaurant experiences he has had and the fact that ultimately he keeps coming back to Coda. Coda will always be one of my favourite Melbourne restaurants because it was the first restaurant I went to when I moved here in 2011. I went in by myself and was so well looked after, the food was so delicious, and I loved the semi-basement vibe. I have been back a lot over the years and I recommend it whenever I can. Hendri got me a coffee and we sat down for a chat just before lunch service on a Wednesday. He told me he had come in on his bike and we talked about how it was a great way to start and finish the day; cycling in gets the blood pumping and cycling home is a good way to decompress. While I’d been waiting for Hendri to organise the coffee, I had been looking around the restaurant and the décor is just the same as it was when I first came in and it struck me that Coda is the same now, but it’s also different. So my first question really cuts to the chase.
Anthony Thalassinos is the head chef of George Calombaris’ new restaurant, The Hellenic House Project in Highett, a bayside suburb about 35 minutes from Melbourne’s CBD. I think you would have to have been under a rock if you didn’t know that George Calombaris had opened a new restaurant and I, like many was following the lead up and opening as well as the star-studded diners, such as Nigella Lawson and Gordon Ramsay who have been sharing their love of this new venue on social media. What I love about the Hellenic House Project’s own social media is that it seems important to them to introduce the whole team as being part of a family who believe in the same things and want to share a sense of community as well as celebrating Greek culture. Anthony is introduced third post in as the head chef and “a proud Greek-Australian with a wonderful background cooking in some of Australia’s best restaurants.” Obviously, my interest was piqued. In Dani Valent’s podcast, Dirty Linen (side note, happy third birthday to that glorious podcast), Calombaris tells her that he has told everyone to keep an eye on Anthony because he has a really good feeling about him, that he’s “ambitious, he’s driven and he’s a way better version of George Calombaris.” When I arrived at The Hellenic House Project, Anthony showed me around the more casual downstairs Kitchen and then we went upstairs to the more elevated dining space, The Good Room and explained that, three months in, they are far busier than they would have expected and are having to renovate to create more space and another kitchen. Anthony is one of those chefs who exudes passion for the industry. I found his enthusiasm for cooking, the hospitality community and for The Hellenic House Project intoxicating and I was hanging off his every word. There were countless moments in this conversation where I think I had the goofiest smile because what Anthony was articulating was absolute gold. I can’t wait for you to hear this conversation and I can’t wait to go back to The Hellenic House Project for dinner.
Georgios Smyrnios got in touch with me to ask whether I’d like to have a chat about what he was doing at Raph’s Deli in Abbotsford ,and I am so glad I did. I live in Abbotsford, but the opposite side and unbelievably this cute little deli and sandwich shop had escaped my notice. In April Urban List rated Raph’s Deli’s sandwiches as some of the best in Melbourne and that is saying a lot for a city obsessed with sangas. George came to Melbourne from Greece 11 years ago and has worked extremely hard across many different hospitality venues to get to where he is today. He shared with me what he has learned along the way and there were such golden reflections that I felt all the richer for having spoken to him.
McKay Wilday is a fascinating guy. He gives off a calm, unflappable and very assured vibe and he comes out with the most unexpected things. I knew I was going to enjoy talking more to him, having spoken briefly to him when I was writing about Alta Trattoria, the restaurant he owns with Carlo Grossi, James Tait and Luke Drum for Broadsheet. I knew he was Grossi alumnus and I knew he had worked at Geranium in Copenhagen (one of last year’s top 50 restaurants). I did not know, and how would I, that he once dreamed of being a concert pianist and that one of his first cooking jobs involved being in a pool of live lobster and carefully selecting the night’s catch without them wrapping around his legs. McKay has a wealth of knowledge about Ligurian and, in fact other Italian regional food and this chat was absolutely worth being up early on the Saturday morning of a long weekend.
I was excited to speak to Brad Cunningham at Waygood for a number of reasons. He is an ex-pat chef from Aotearoa New Zealand and he has worked in numerous places around the world, including my home town of Otautahi, Christchurch, as well as in Paris and London. I particularly loved that in his LinkedIn profile, Brad says he has lived and worked in some of the world’s greatest cities and he lists those as London, Paris, Sydney, Auckland, Wellington, Christchurch and Melbourne. Anyone who includes Christchurch on such an erudite list is an excellent person as far as I am concerned. I was also captivated by the idea that Brad worked as head chef at Ottolenghi in London and I am such a fan of Yotham Ottolenghi and of course, I wanted to hear all about that. That does make it sound as though I was on my own wish fulfilment path heading into this conversation and I have to say, Brad absolutely indulged my need to hear how great Christchurch is and some lovely inside information about Yotham, but I came away feeling lucky to have spoken to Brad. He is quietly spoken and articulately describes his food, the ups and downs of life as a chef and the fact that he has come full circle in aiming for and achieving an Executive chef role but realising he is happiest being on the pans in a small neighbourhood restaurant and giving diners a good time. I appreciated his sincerity and humility. This is a chef who has worked in top kitchens but doesn’t court fame and a lot of attention. For Brad it all comes back to his passion for food and putting beautiful ingredients on the plate and I loved that.
For me, eating seafood while looking out to sea is what it’s all about and so Audrey’s at the iconic Continental in Sorrento is my dream come true. The dining room is divine. Art Deco curves, coastal pallet, sunshine streaming in and a view of the sea. Plus Audrey’s is part of Scott Pickett’s repertoire of incredible restaurants and I am a long-time fan of Scott and his restaurants. While I have not yet sat down and chatted to Scott for Conversation with a Chef, I have spoken to a lot of his head chefs, and I’ve had some fan girl moments with Scott at openings. Audrey’s is an ode to Scott’s grandmother and the fisherman’s basket fun times they shared and the passion for food and cooking that she instilled in Scott. Audrey’s is helmed by Nick Deligiannis, 2023 Young Chef of the Year, and it couldn’t be in better hands. I spoke to Nick when I was helping compile Broadsheet’s Home, filled with recipes foodies could cook when in lockdown at home. I knew then that this was a young chef who loved what he was doing and had a passion for the industry in general. I was delighted to get the chance to sit down with Nick and hear more.
Japan-born Soichi Kawabata brings 26 years of traditional and hyper-focused knife-wielding skills to South Yarra's Yakikami in its Wagyu Omakase offering.Growing up in Fukuako – a coastal city known for its seafood culture, Soichi spent his younger years on fishing trips with his father. Here, the pair would catch different types of fish and bring them back to the family to share, and create something special. To respect and identify quality produce was something he was taught on these trips, igniting Soichi’s love affair with cooking and confirming his destiny lay within the walls of a kitchen. Soichi began his professional career under Mr Fukuuako where he spent the next five years building a strong and refined foundation of haute Japanese cuisine. The high standard of this position, along with his unwavering work ethic saw him quickly move up the ranks. Before leaving, Soichi obtained his certificate in Fugu – a sought-after licence allowing one to prepare and serve the Japanese delicacy, Fugu (pufferfish).Fascinated with the cultural identity of Australia, Soichi decided to widen his culinary journey and moved in 2005 where he found himself at Neil White’s Pure South. Further advancing his techniques and learning what it took to create a full dining experience Soichi spent many years learning and familiarising himself with Australian produce and a new customer palette. Soichi has cemented himself as an expert in the Japanese culinary world with a passion and love for Japanese cuisine. With a focus on customer experience, guests can expect to learn expert tips during their Wagyu Omakase experience every time they sit at Soichi’s counter.
Pamella Tomio is head chef at Ovolo Hotel’s Lona Misa, the incredible plant-based restaurant brought about by hospitality legends, Shannon Martinez and Ian Curley. Pamella was such a joy to talk to. She was so generous in what she shared with me about growing up in hospitality in Brazil, coming to Australia and what she loves about working at Lona Misa. Pamella is cooking veggie dishes on the Josper grill and is passionate about flavour and bringing people together over food. If you haven’t checked out the South Yarra Ovolo hotel. you are really missing out. It is bright and arty and there for a good time and that alongside Pamella’s food and her incredible heart for hospitality make it a place that is good for the soul
I love Pipi’s Kiosk. It’s in Albert Park, but right on the beach. As in, literally on the beach. You sit at a table where the sea is pretty much lapping at your ankles but you are drinking beautiful wine and eating glorious food. With the floor to ceiling windows, you get to see all the theatrics, whether it is glorious sunny weather or dramatic storms, it is all beautiful and at Pipi’s you are centre stage. Plus, you are in the hands of an incredible team led by Jordan Clay and Tom Hunter who all like each other and love that you are there. Pipi’s is the epitome of hospitality. I wrote about them for Broadsheet when they first opened and I have been wanting to get back over there to talk to Jordan since then. When Canadian born Jordan was 18, he won a competition that took him to Paris and he ended up cooking at Le Chateaubriand before it got on the World’s 50 Best list. Since then he has cooked at great places around the world before, lucky for us, he came to Melbourne. Having cooked at Cumulus Up and Ôter, where he met friend and business partner Tom Hunter, he then, with Tom, launched Pipi’s and the world is a better place for it. I loved this conversation and I absolutely know you will too.
I sat down with head chef and owner, Aseem Sood and his business partner, Kunal Bhardwaj at Kahaani in Lygon Street. Kahaani means story in Hindi and Aseem wants to tell the story of India’s regions and history through his food, which he describes as “unreasonably authentic”. The pair looked for a while for a venue, originally imagining that South Yarra would be the place until they came across the space in Carlton. Aseem and Kunal did all the renovations themselves over five months, using as much as possible repurposed material, “handmade”, says Aseem, referring to the sanding of the table tops and the exposed brick wall on one side and a clay wall on the other. The bar is made out of an old wooden work bench with bright blue tiling around its base. Upstairs can be used for private dining and functions and is creatively filled with branches and greenery. Aseem and Kunal are currently working on a tiffin box lunch offering and for adventurous foodies, a surprise dish where apart from the protein, you won’t know anything about the dish until it arrives at your table. Kunal made me a delicious chai and I very happily listened to their story.
Paul Kasten previously worked in fine dining but wanted to ‘put down the tweezers’ and bring rarely found authentic regional American pizza styles to Australia. He opened Deep End Pizza last March in the space formerly occupied by Hammer and Tong just off Brunswick Street and it has been gloriously popular ever since he first opened the doors. Deep End’s Detroit, Chicago and New York style pizzas are each made with a different dough, a different oven, and different care. The bases are meticulously crafted using a variety of flours, fermentation times, handling techniques and baking temperatures. What I loved about talking to Paul was the many surprises along the way in this conversation. There was a time early on when Paul thought he might like to be a poet and embarked on a university degree to pursue this, before deciding that perhaps that was not the path for him. However, there is much that is poetic in the story of his life thus far. He set up a cookie business at the age of nine and loved how happy his cookies made people, then worked his way up over the years to the role of sous chef and beer director in award-winning farm to plate restaurant, Wildwood in Portland, Oregon, a job that he loved. Following that venture, he got more into running beer and food matching events and happened to be offered a position as head chef in a pizza restaurant, an idea that did not appeal to him at the time. In an unexpected plot twist, he moved to Melbourne and opened his own pizza joint (there were a few steps in between) and he now loves seeing how happy his pizzas make people. If that is not circular narrative, I’m not sure what is.
Alan Tompkins is an ambassador for the Burnt Chef Project, an organisation that seeks to highlight mental health within the hospitality industry. This is a huge topic and timely to talk about. Four out of five hospo workers say they have encountered mental health challenges while working in the industry, but a whopping 47 % say they would not speak up about it. This gulf is something Alan and his colleagues at the Burnt Chef Project want to address. You can hear Alan in person when he speaks on the panel at Mo-Hospo, an event on 8 may at Hope Street Radio where he will join Movember ambassador's Sebastian Pasinetti, Anthony Power and guests for a panel discussion around Men's Mental Health within the industry.
Nornie Bero is from the Meriam People of Mer Island in the Torres Strait and is the executive chef, CEO and owner of Mabu Mabu. Nornie has been a professional chef for more than twenty-five years and draws inspiration from her cultural heritage and from the abundance of natural resources she grew up with and now champions. Nornie’s cooking style reflects her passion for using local, sustainable ingredients and traditional and modern techniques to create contemporary, creative dishes that tell a story, her story. Nornie’s book, Mabu Mabu, An Australian Kitchen Cookbook is a guide to using native flavours in everyday cooking. Mabu Mabu means help yourself and reflects Nornie’s generous approach to cooking and life. Nornie is joining forces with the Stomping Ground team for a Good Beer Week event on 23 May where they will present a multi-course Torres Strait Island feast inspired by a Creation story. Each course will link to different elements of the story and will include seafood and native meats,, as well as native ingredients from across Australia.
I cannot tell you how excited I was to meet Gabriel Gate and talk to him. Before we talked, I imagined the conversation would be about cooking, food and being a chef, and it was, but we also talked about life and the things that are important. When I told people that I was going to talk to Gabriel, the universal reaction, was, “Ah Gabriel Gate, what a lovely man.” Everyone has heard of Gabriel. They know him as a chef with an international reputation as a cookery author, a television presenter and a cookery teacher, and they also know him as a gentleman who is genuinely interested in others and in the goodness he can share through food. I first met Gabriel at the celebration evening for the Australian team returning from the Bocuse d’Or competition that took place in Lyon this January. Gabriel is on the Bocuse d’Or committee and is a fierce and proud advocate for the industry and the hospitality industry needs more people like him. We sat down to chat for the podcast at Via Verona in Kew. Gabriel gave me a copy of his book, So French, So Sweet, and I think I will always be on dessert duty at any gathering from now on. We chatted in French for a while, which I of course loved, before getting straight to the heart of things.
Pawan Dutta is the Executive chef at Melbourne’s newest luxury hotel, The Royce. Channelling all the golden glamour of the roaring twenties, entering The Royce feels as though you are gliding onto the set of Baz Luhrman’s The Great Gatsby. It is beautiful. No stranger to cooking in glorious and luxurious settings, Pawan has had an enviable career, travelling to and working in over 80 different countries in five-star hotels, resorts and on luxury yachts. This glamourous world has by no means gone to his head. Pawan is humble and grateful for the opportunities he has had to research and cook a plethora of cuisines using unfamiliar ingredients and the way he speaks about his current team and his philosophy was heart-warming. After Pawan and I had spoken, I was lucky enough to have a taste of his menu in the Showroom Bar at the Royce. The brief for the menu was, ‘British’ and this, too required some research for Pawan. He has nailed it. The flavours were modern, elegant and utterly delicious. A standout was the sous vide chicken with potato terrine, braised Dutch carrots and whisky jus. They say the simpler the dish, the harder it is to really get it right. This was right in so many ways and I can’t stop thinking about how good it was.
Francesco Crifo is a passionate advocate of pizza. He describes himself as a pizza chef and not a pizza maker and says that despite the abundance of pizza restaurants in Melbourne, there is still a real lack of knowledge about pizza, their bases, flours, toppings, and potential. To this end he has established his pizza academy where he offers a masterclass and an e-book to share the knowledge gained from growing up and working in pizza restaurants in Catania and Milan before coming to Melbourne. Francesco opened Roccella with Bernie Cuteri and Joe and Bruno Ceraso in East Melbourne and happily works there (even on his days off!) with his wife and a largely Italian staff. They opened nine weeks before we went into our first lockdown in Melbourne and had to quickly pivot to takeaway pizza, pasta and salads which was a godsend for East Melbourne locals and continues to be a popular local hangout. Francesco strongly believes that chefs must cook what their diners want and not what they themselves want to cook. He has four different pizza doughs (including an activated charcoal dough made from coconut shells) and he knows his grains and fermentation processes inside out. And the toppings? Francesco is all about balancing flavours and textures, salty and sweet, so that every bite is absolute deliciousness. There’s an impressive offering, but just to give you an idea of the thought that goes into his food, Francesco told me that he even has pineapple on one of his pizzas. But not with tomato, ham and cheese. Because the combination of pineapple and tomato, “is not correct.” Francesco’s Smoky Ananas has smoked and charred fresh pineapple, fior de latte, 24-month aged prosciutto, Stracciatella, vincotto glaze and cracked pepper. Delicious! Francesco gave me a tour of the restaurant before we sat down in the beautiful East Melbourne room filled with archival photos of the area in the early days and overlooking the lush Fitzroy gardens.
Stephen Nairn is the epitome of the passionate chef. His love for food, the industry, his team and for always learning more is palpable. I had spoken to Stephen over the phone for Broadsheet when Yugen Dining opened and quite frankly I was grinning like a lunatic on the other end of the line because I was just lapping up the way he described the dishes. He pointed out that when he says the menu is ‘led by the five senses’, that’s not just a fluff statement. I doubt Stephen ever makes fluff statements. He is articulate and thoughtful, and I could listen for hours, I learned so much. When he mentions a sensory approach, he is talking about identifying a range of ingredients he wants to work with and then applying salt, acid, fat, umami, steam, charcoal, not so much to manipulate the flavour in order to change the ingredients, but to extract the most out of the flavour. For example, he says, the depth of flavour in the Drunken Poussin on the Yugen Dining menu sings from all the right notes. When I arrived to speak to him in person, we talked about our days and I mentioned I was a teacher. Stephen comes from a family of teachers, but was himself drawn to cooking and once in, could not get enough of it, starting in Glasgow and working himself up through the best restaurants there, then London, then New York and Eleven Madison Park. He came to Melbourne, intending to stay only two months, and 10 years on, he has worked for Shannon Bennett, Scott Pickett and is now LK Culinary Director — Yugen Dining, Yugen Tea Bar and Omnia Bistro & Bar. This was one of my favourite conversations and I can’t wait for you to listen.
When I was asked if I’d like to have a chat to camp oven guru, Ranger Nick, I leapt at the chance. How could I not? Ranger Nick is a celebrity TV cook on Channel 7 Mates ‘Step Outside with Paul Burt’, he is a Guinness Book world record holder for the longest damper, and the creator of Curry Kits, and he has recently been recognised as a Finalist in the Environmental Business category of the 2023 Australian Small Business Champion Awards. While he doesn’t reckon he’ll make it to the Sydney Star Casino event in late April, Ranger Nick is pretty chuffed to have been nominated and named a finalist. Living off-grid and traveling all over Australia to educate outdoor enthusiasts and school students about bush cooking and environmental etiquette, Ranger Nick has more than a few stories to tell. We talked about how to control the heat in the fire, roasting silverside, cooking damper, and the best way to look after your cast iron camp oven. I learned so much and I can’t wait to get into the bush at Easter and try out some of his tips. Ranger Nick has an infectious laugh and he certainly put me through my paces quizzing me on my cooking knowledge. This was such a great chat and I wish him all the best at the Awards.
Jake Furst is head chef of Cinder, the elegant fire-driven restaurant in Fitzroy North’s 150-year-old pub The Terminus Hotel, and also executive chef of the Kickon Group, a hospitality group that runs large scale, high-end venues in Melbourne, Sorrento, and Queensland. Since the Group took over the Terminus, they have completely renovated it, creating a casual pub feel out the front, extensive beer garden and marquee seating, a private dining room upstairs and Cinder, which really is breathtaking. It is quite the maze in the Terminus and Jake took me for a tour before we sat down to chat. When we came through the door to Cinder, there was a lot to take in, blue stone back wall, timbered ceiling and wall features and the original pendant lights, glowing softly and bathing the room in a golden light. Cinder also has a private dining room with exquisite wines forming a wall at one end. For the lucky 80 people who have signed up to the Cuts Club (there are still places), they have a specially assigned steak knife hand made by Mathieu Deschamps in the Dandenongs hanging in a wooden awards cabinet on the wall for when they come to visit. It really feels like a magical place. Jake is all about the collaborations and you can check them all out on the Terminus website, but important to note is the upcoming Melbourne Food and Wine Festival event, where Good Food’s Young Chef of the Year Nicholas Deligiannis (Audrey’s) will join Jake on March 28 and 29 for a unique take on the surf’n’turf. Deligiannis’s love for seafood and Furst’s passion for dry-aged beef will collide. Jake and I talked about all sorts of things and once we had finished, Jake told me that he had prepared lunch for me and I very happily sat down to delicious dry aged Cape Grim steak, perfectly cooked, of course and felt very special indeed.
Lewis Bryce has had a fairly cinematic life so far, at least I think he has. Picture this: Cornwall, a small town on the coast, a young guy, spurred on by stories told by Australians on their big OE in the UK, dreams of adventure on the other side of the world and sets off to Byron Bay for a working holiday. Young guy meets young Melburnian girl, in Byron Bay for schoolies, romance and life-changing scenes ensue. Jump forward 14 years and fresh from a role as sous chef at Supernormal, Lewis is now head chef at newly renovated Hotel South Melbourne, which was built in 1854 and has hosted the likes of ACDC and Nick Cave and the Bad Seeds. Given the late summer Melbourne has been having, we did seem to talk about tomatoes quite a lot during the chat, and so it was particularly fitting that Lewis sent out a delicious heirloom tomato dish with whipped parmesan and basil for me to try after our chat. I also had grilled shark bay scallops with preserved lemon butter, and I can tell you that with a glass of rose, this was the perfect choice for a Friday afternoon.
What an absolute pleasure to speak to Steven Nelson at The Recreation Bistro and Bottleshop. I mean, anyone who describes their zucchini as gorgeous and affectionately describes the way they are left to run free in a field as they grow has to be a good person by definition. Certainly a thoughtful person, and the way Steve described his career and the things he has learned along the way is certainly thoughtful; from his early days in Canberra to working in one of Gordon Ramsay’s venues in London, to the restaurant he worked at in Edinburgh and the incredible produce he worked with there, to his 15 years working in Melbourne in top restaurants. If you are familiar with some of my other conversations, you will know that I often bring up the Spanish book, Like Water for Chocolate, and the idea that when a chef cooks, their emotions go into the food and the people who eat it can taste those. This was one of those occasions where when I ate the stuffed zucchini flower and the duck pithivier with its divine darkened red wine jus, I could taste Steven’s experience, his love for the produce and his environment and his calm, appreciative approach. If you don’t believe me, you just need to get down to The Recreation and try it for yourself. Let me know how you get on. I know I’m right. And the other great thing about The Recreation is that they are now open on Monday nights, so that’s seven nights of goodness and seven nights where I am bound to be right.
If I had had to choose a chef to talk to, if not on International Women’s Day, but around that time Jane Low is it. Jane is a passionate chef. One of those chefs who always knew this is what she wanted to do. Jane incorporates her Chinese background and Malaysian upbringing, mixing that in to her experiences as a pastry chef and recent time in London and travels in Europe. Jane has distilled her style into delicious, fun food that reflects her life, her adventures and her thirst for knowledge. I spoke to Jane’s boss and friend, Almay Jordaan at Neighbourhood Wine a few years ago and I recently caught up with Almay which was such a pleasure. It is no surprise that she has someone like Jane working with her. You only need to step inside Neighbourhood Wine, Old Palm Liquor or Bahama Gold to understand that these people know hospitality and love it. At one point Jane mentioned that between the drink and food menu, her goal is for people to never want to leave. Job done I think.
Mark Krueger is Group head chef of restaurants Mejico and Indu in the city. Mark has an extensive background in the culinary field, having worked under and alongside, some of the world’s most renowned chefs at several iconic restaurants and hotels. From Melbourne to the Maldives, Thailand and the Yarra Valley, Mark has continued to foster a passion for food and also for life-long learning with this latest role sending him on another learning curve within Mexican cuisine. I had come in to Pink Alley a couple of weeks before our chat for dinner at Mejico and I loved it. The food was fresh and tasty and I loved the margaritas, the guacamole being made at the table and all the decorative skulls in the dining room. Mark had prepared for our chat, and we didn’t cover half the things he had noted down, and I think with all his experiences and the different countries he has lived in there, there is definitely a book in it, or even a movie. There is clearly an opportunity for a second conversation. We went upstairs to Indu’s private dining room and the fragrance of spices as we walked up the stairs was incredible. You enter the dining room through a hallway bedecked in yellow garlands and it feels like a special place. I was already making a mental note for a future dinner party with friends all seated around the huge banquet table eating delicious Sri Lankan food. Will you come?
Yesterday I rode 89 floors in an elevator to Eureka 89, the restaurant one floor above the Melbourne Skydeck to talk to the glorious Renee Martillano, who Is the Executive chef there. The Skydeck is the Southern Hemisphere’s highest observation deck and the tower itself is 297.3 metres tall with 91 floors. So the 89th floor is a long way up. It is beautiful up there and I loved sitting up there with Renee, hearing her story with such an incredible backdrop. I think it says a lot about a chef and about a venue when there is longevity involved and Renee has been riding the lift to the 89th floor since 2011. She loves it. And that’s obvious from the way she talks about the food, but more importantly the way she talks about her team. Yesterday was her day off but she went into the kitchen to see how they were all going, and she talked about staff meals and how she loves how that brings everyone together. I can’t wait to go back and have one of Renee’s five or six course degustation dinners, looking out across the Yarra to the Dandenongs. I decided to include the start of my journey, so you are actually going to ride the lift with me and meet Danielle, the sales and marketing manager who took Renee and I up to the 89th floor and then we get into the chat.
KIN is the glorious sounding restaurant housed in All Saints Estate’s 1864 heritage-listed castle in Rutherglen, and is an ode to family by siblings Eliza, Nick and Angela Brown. Kin offers modern destination dining with a menu inspired by family recipes and childhood memories, plus the best local and Estate produce and it is helmed by the very lovely chef Jack Cassidy. While Rutherglen is very firmly on my list of places to visit, the three-hour twenty-minute drive was a bit far at this point, so Jack and I chatted on the phone. Jack is one of those chefs who never dreamed of becoming a chef and now cannot imagine doing anything else. He has cooked in some incredible restaurants around the country, including Bistro Guillaume, Bedarra Island Resort, Jackalope, and is now Executive chef at KIN. The way he talks about food is wonderful and I can’t wait to try some of his dishes paired with a beautiful heritage wine from All Saints Estate. I bet you’ll feel the same, because Jack’s passion is palpable and he has an infectious laugh, and laughter is brightest where food is the best.
In November last year, Hamish Vaccari started selling family recipe Italian subs out the back of an unassuming house on Nicholson Street. It went viral. Nonna’s House was the obvious choice of name for the venture, given it is, in fact, his Nonna's house. Having lost his job at the start of Covid, Hamish was thinking about his next move and when his Nonna passed away at the impressive age of 98 late last year, it came to him. He'd make and sell the food he grew up with; the food he discovered at his Nonno and Nonna's house. And Melbourne can't get enough of it. Anyone who has had one of these subs, describes it by closing their eyes and kinda sighing, as though they have already forgotten they were telling you about it and are already planning their next visit. But get onto it, it's first in, best dressed and these babies go quickly. Hamish, his dad and his uncle sell out every weekend. I went around during the week and I have to say, it was one of the most hilarious chats I have ever had. When I arrived, I could hear the stereo up pretty loud and Hamish didn't hear the doorbell. I overthought it, went down the side of the house, saw him through the window in the kitchen, felt awkward, went back to the front door and sent a message to say I was there. When he opened the door, I was looking out at the street and got the biggest and very audible fright. I went in, met Hamish's beautiful two-year-old Bassett hound, Chef and Hamish and I sat down to chat. Chef was pretty keen on attention, so Hamish put him outside. The chat was then punctuated by the thump of Chef throwing himself at the door to get our attention. He came back in and joined in the conversation before going into the kitchen and wreaking some sort of havoc in there. But you know, I really liked all that because it's Nonna's House after all and you get what's going.
Nabil Ansari is the loveliest man. I have been following him for a while on Instagram and of course I had heard about him when he did Ansari at Home, a pop up over lockdown where he cooked Indian food for his neighbours and then it went gangbusters. As always, it was such a pleasure to talk to someone who is so passionate about what he does. From deciding he wanted to cook, leaving Dubai and coming to Australia where he knew no one, but wanted to go to William Angliss, it feels as though Nabil has made strong connections and beautiful friends in hospitality and beyond. Having worked at The European and Sunda, Nabil was ready to stretch his wings and take on the role of head chef at Firebird. I reckon he is definitely one to watch.
In 2017, chef and owner Lucas Parkinson established Ode Conscious Dining in Wanaka, Aotearoa, after spending over a decade developing his skill and passion for food in Aotearoa & overseas. Lucas quickly gained recognition after Ode was named one of New Zealand’s Top 100 restaurants at both the 2018 & 2019 Cuisine Good Food Awards, receiving ‘the one to watch’ & ‘1 Hat’ accolades - the southern hemisphere equivalent of 1 Michelin star. Committed to influencing ethical food decisions within Aotearoa, he has been called Aotearoa’s most sustainable chef. When Lucas messaged me and wondered whether I’d like to hear his story, I jumped at the chance. This is a story of very high highs and extremely low lows. At the height of Ode’s success, the restaurant burned down and then, once he had painstakingly built up the business again, lockdown after lockdown in New Zealand and the fallout from those forced Lucas’ hand again. Lucas was so honest and so generous with what he shared with me and I think this is one of the most important conversations I have had about mental health as well as what it means to succeed and survive in the hospitality industry.
I cannot think of a better way to start the Conversation with a chef year than to chat to Bocuse d’Or finalist, Alex McIntosh. Originally from Canada, long-time fan of Bocuse d’Or, Alex was a finalist in the Bocuse d’Or Australia 2015, a judge for the fish dish in the Bocuse d’Or Australia 2017, and among the crowd cheering on Team Australia in Lyon in 2017. Over his career, Alex has worked at Melbourne icon Cecconi’s, with Neil Perry at Rockpool Bar & Grill, with Jamie Oliver at Fifteen Melbourne, and at The Atlantic Group as Head Chef. He then relocated to Geelong and spent almost five years as Executive Chef for Sea Change Hospitality Group, overseeing some of Bellarine Peninsula’s favourite venues. Alex recently joined the Sou'West Brewery in Torquay, while at the same time embarking on his Bocuse d’Or journey. Alex clearly has a passion for cooking and has been doing it from an early age. It was such a privilege for me to chat to him only two days out from him flying to France and 13 days out from the big day of competition. I absolutely loved talking to Alex and will be waiting with bated breath to hear the outcome.
My friend Morgan Williams is an absolute star. He does a lot. So much. An absolute ideas man and entrepreneur, and if you follow him on the socials, which you absolutely should, it is one great idea after the next. Morgan was the co-producer for many years on the wildly successful New Zealand children’s program, What Now, and also had a principal role in what I think is one of the best zombie movies to come out of Otautahi Christchurch, Last of the Living. He is currently studying Nursing, as well as pushing a men’s underwear range, hosting drive-in movies with a huge inflatable screen, distilling gin and making kimchi. When I lived in Otautahi in the pre-Conversation with a chef days, I used to have a show on a local radio station called Volcano FM. I interviewed people who were passionate about what they did. I loved it. There is something so thrilling about talking to people who love what they do and know all about it. So really I have been angling to talk to Morgan for ages and now that he has branched into food, I had my chance. I loved our chat and I do apologise for the at times uproarious laughter, but I’m kinda hoping you might join in.
Inspired by his father’s cooking and baking and by the food his grandmother made, Diego Cossio started his journey to become a chef in South Africa where his family had moved from Peru, and made sure he did part of his internship at the top restaurant in Johannesburg. Throughout his career, ambition and a drive to be better and better has propelled him from one elevated dining venue to another both overseas and in Australia and he is now at The Dining Room at Lancemore Lindenderry Red Hill on the Mornington Peninsula. His summer degustation menu is all about local produce and Diego prefers to let the ingredients speak for themselves, without too much fussing from him, although diners will notice some Peruvian nuances coming though. I chatted to Diego while it poured with rain outside, and we are both hoping that summer is just around the corner too we can enjoy his menu in the warm sun. I hope you love listening to this conversation as much as I enjoyed being part of it.
Srishti Godbole is the third contestant I have spoken to from the recent Pacific Region San Pellegrino Young Chef Competition, and I was excited to hear about her dish and to hear more about her journey as a chef. Srishti grew up in Mumbai and credits her Great Grandmother and her mother for her love, and in fact awe and wonder for food and cooking, having a particular moment of epiphany as she watched her mother bake a souffle. From there, she has pursued excellence, embarking on cooking degrees, various Cordon Bleu courses, internships and stages around the world and always voraciously lapping up the knowledge to become a better chef. Srishti is the epitome of focus, determination and discipline and she is no newcomer to high stakes competition, having represented India in Karate. Srishti works at Maximilian’s in the Adelaide Hills, giving me yet another reason to visit Adelaide – of course, as if I need to be convinced – and so we had a chat on the phone. I look forward to meeting her in person sometime soon.
What an absolute delight to have my 300th Conversation with a chef with Salvatore Giorgio at La Vetta at Marnong Estate. I have been wanting to chat to Salvatore for a while now, ever since I met him at Bar Bambi in the city and this conversation was even better than I had hoped. Salvatore is a passionate chef who has been cooking since he was 11 years old. He grew up in a family of chefs with his father a pizza maker in Naples, a mother who prepared three to four courses every night for dinner and brothers and sisters and cousins who are also chefs. I was hanging off Salvatore’s every word and there is so much gold in this conversation that I am just going to let it speak for itself.
Josh Niland described the dish Robin Wagner presented at the S. Pellegrino Young Chef competition as, “the best dish” he had tasted this year. Another judge wanted to lick the plate clean. The dish was simply called “Smoked Celeriac with Granny Smith Apple and Crispy Taro,” and it won him the Regional Finalist title. And when they say regional, they mean the Pacific region. Next year Robin will fly to Milan to join the finalists from other regions around the world competing for the overall award for 2022-23. Robin started his cooking career in Germany, working in fine-dining Michelin restaurants (Restaurant Vendôme and Villa Merton) before moving to Australia and working at Sydney’s Sepia and Daylesford’s Lake House before calling South Australia home and working as sous chef to Scott Huggins at Penfold’s Magill Estate just out of Adelaide. Robin is, of course, honoured to have been chosen for the award, but he also got so much out meeting and being part of the community of chefs the competition creates.
Jackson Mehlhopt is head chef at Christchurch’s Tussock Hill Cellar Door and Winery and this year he was a regional finalist in the S.Pellegrino Young Chef Academy Competition. The Competition is a global annual event to support young chefs and their personal vision for the world of food, demonstrating how food can have a positive impact on society at large. Ten chefs under 30 each cooked one dish for the Pacific region competition. Jackson’s dish, “The Southern Kiwi Deer and Its Surroundings,” was also awarded the Acqua Panna Award for Connection in Gastronomy, and clearly impressed the judges by his use of Wapiti deer - a South Island animal commonly thought of as a pest - highlighting issues of food waste and sustainability. I was excited to talk to Jackson, obviously because he is from Christchurch, but also because he has had an unbelievable trajectory as a chef. He has worked at Roots in Lyttelton, Amisfield in Queenstown, he did a short stint at Relae in Copenhagen and is now head chef at Tussock Hill. And he is 23 years old. I loved chatting to Jackson. He had some beautiful things to say about stewardship of the land, sustainability and how important community is to him as a chef.
Joel Alderdice grew up in Badger Creek in the Yarra Ranges and completed his apprenticeship at TarraWarra Estate under chef Robin Sutcliffe. Having completed his training and won Best Apprenticeship of the Year, Robin encouraged him to broaden his horizons and move to the city to check out some other venues. He certainly did that, working with friend of the podcast and legend chef, Nicky Riemer at Union Dining, sous cheffing at Ebenezer Restaurant and The Healesville Hotel before taking on the role of head chef at Bar Liberty in Fitzroy and gaining a chef’s hat there in 2017. Now, in a full circle, he is back at TarraWarra Estate as head chef and loving every minute of it. Joel is all about the hospitality. He loves chatting to diners and getting their feedback and his goal is always to give the guests a lovely time. This was a phone call, but I have been out to TarraWarra before and I love that part of the world. I’m looking forward to getting back there and trying out some of Joel’s food. I somehow ended up sharing one of my own family secret recipes, the old vegemite and chip sandwich, and I’m fairly certain Joel liked the sound of it. If you are out at TarraWarra any time soon, let me know if it appears on the menu!
Scott is mates with two of my favourite chefs, Scott Pickett and Dan Hunter. Scott told me that he has always loved eating and cooking and once he had decided to pursue cooking as a career and was accepted as an apprentice, he felt super excited and as though everything was going the way it should go. He has never looked back. Scott has worked in different parts of Australia and the world and has been at Magill Estate since 2014. This year he took on the role of Director as well as chef of the Adelaide winery that is home to Penfolds Wines, Australia’s leading producer of wines since 1844. I have to admit that I have yet to visit Adelaide and when I was asked to speak to Scott, I did google flights to South Australia just to see if it was possible. It wasn’t for now and I spoke to Scott on the phone. He actually had to pull over and chat to me in his car from the side of the road and the way he spoke about Magill Estate and the orchards and vegetable gardens they are establishing in Piccadilly, a 20-minute drive away in the Adelaide Hills, I really wanted to be there. It is definitely on my list, but in the meantime, chatting to Scott was a pretty good substitute. Now we had just had a missed call and then a pulling over to the side of the road so there is some apologising and thanking and some chat about the weather but then we get into it!
Bossa Nova is a colourful café in Carlton where owners Gabriel and Gabriela Gebaile are serving up food that will remind people of the food back home in Brazil or introduce people to Brazilian flavours if they haven’t tried them before. I wrote about them for Broadsheet when Bossa Nova first opened, and I was happy to hear from Gabriel again telling me about his Friday and Saturday steak nights. I of course talk the opportunity to ask to talk to his chefs, Thays and Suzan. And I am so glad I did. Thays was nervous because of her English, but she had nothing to worry about. Both Thays and Suzan were honest and open with me in what they shared about how hard it is to be a chef, but also how rewarding, what they miss from home in Brazil and there really was a theme of how great potatoes are from Thays. I loved this chat and I am looking forward to going back to Bossa Nova for some lunch or to check out their Friday and Saturday steak nights. They had me at tropical cocktails, Picanha from the Grill and South American wines, but now that I have met Thays and Suzan and caught up with Gabriel again, I was reminded that it feels like a big happy family at Bossa Nova and that makes the whole place feel great and the best kind of vibe to dine in.
Luke Farrell loves being a baker. I find it intoxicating to talk to people who are so passionate about what they do. Luke is the Product Development and Bakery Support Manager at Bakers Delight. My favourite bread ever (apart from a baguette bought from a boulangerie IN France) is the Cape seed loaf from Bakers Delight. It actually is. So I was thrilled to get to talk to the guy behind the new version of this, the prebiotic Cape seed loaf. It’s delicious AND good for me. I love that. Luke said at one point in his current role, he knows that when he develops a product, millions of people will eat it. That is incredible. And did you know, because I did not, that Bakers Delight started in Hawthorn in Melbourne in 1980 and has now grown to 700 bakeries across Australia, New Zealand, Canada and the USA? I think that is pretty inspiring.
I was lucky enough to be invited to Luci a few weeks ago for a five-course degustation showcasing new head chef Jason Lear’s spring menu. Jason is all about seasonality and not mucking around too much with the produce. Highlights of the night for me were the oysters with fennel mignonette, the tortellini with roast duck and cured pork cheek and the grilled lamb fillet which I loved was served with rhubarb, silverbeet, macadamia and date jus but also came with this little mouthful of crispy lamb belly that I have to say I thought about for days afterwards. So very very good. Luci is housed within the Hilton Melbourne Little Queen Street, a heritage building dating back to 1931 and all those glorious art deco flourishes have been honoured here. It is elegant, yet not imposing dining, a beautiful space with thoughtful and delicious food. I somehow managed to launch the conversation from an unexpected entry point and we began with the various merits of sauces, which I absolutely loved. We talked about Jason’s lucky break at Di Stasio St Kilda, his enduring love for Italian food and what he reckons makes a good chef.
I have just had the loveliest time at Cambodia's Kitchen in the CBD. I went in to have a chat to brother and sister team, Ivanra and Linna about how things have been going since they opened in May and why they saw a need for Cambodian food in the city. Ivanra told me that he reckons the noodle soup Linna makes is in the top five noodle soups in Melbourne and he says he should know, because he loves eating. He is also a co-owner of a couple of the Shujinko Ramen shops, so Iam pretty sure he knows a thing or two about noodle soup. Once I had spoken to them, Linna went out into the kitchen and made me the most popular thing on the menu, Cambodian marinated fried pork with rice. It comes served with pork broth on the side, the same broth they use in the noodle soup. Ivanra was not joking. This is hands down the most incredible soup I have ever tasted. It is a clear broth but has such a complex savoury flavour that I had one of those, where-have-you-been-all-my-life moments. About a soup. I already know I will not be able to stop thinking about it. The dish, itself was delicious with an incredible sweet, sour, salty sauce that Ivanra and Linna's mother makes. Ivan said that they want to make food that is quick, cheap and tasty. And sure, they have achieved that, but I just don't think tasty is the half of it. This is delicious food that is an incredible discovery for those of us who don't know a lot about Cambodian food and I am sure it must also be a taste of home for Cambodian diners. I don't really know why you are still here reading this and not already out the door on your way to Cambodia's Kitchen right now. No excuses, they are open from 11am until 11pm every day. You're welcome.
Barry drove in to the city from his home on the Mornington Peninsula to talk to me and we sat outside in the sun at Frankie Says in Abbotsford. Talking to Barry was such a good time. He pretty much started talking as soon as he arrived and at some point I thought to push record. Barry has been a chef for a number of years and speaks highly of the chefs he has worked with along the way, especially his mentor and colleague, Philippe Mouchel. Barry is perhaps best known for the long stint he did at Montalto Winery and now he brings all that experience to his students at Le Cordon Bleu. As well as imparting huge swathes of culinary knowledge, Barry has got into puppetry with his best mate and that will definitely be a watch this YouTube space for when those antics go live. We covered all sorts of topics and were only vaguely distracted by coffee orders, an emergency evacuation practice, cute French bulldogs and children precariously negotiating the large rock feature behind us. To the listener, bear all that in mind as you follow the thread of this truly remarkable conversation. Mental health featured a fair bit and I really want to acknowledge how generous Barry was with what he shared with me.
Ronnie's is a casual eatery in the Intercontinental on Collins Street and it is ALL about the fun there. Owner Matthew Butcher has worked alongside the likes of Gordon Ramsay and Shannon Bennett. Matthew grew up watching his dad Ronnie cook in the family takeaway shop and because of that experience loves to bring people together over a good meal and a few beers. Apparently, Matthew also hasa penchant for all things American and wants diners to come into Ronnie's and feel as though they are actually in the USA. I'd have to say, job well done. Enter through the heritage faade and you are met with a very Hamptons meets New York decor. (I know that sounds like a whimsical confluence, but you will understand when you see it). Chances are you will be greeted by Venue Manager Eddy Tamayo who is an absolute delight of a person and makes you feel welcome as soon as you walk in the door. Recent addition to the team is the very lovely Anthony Dispensa, fresh off the boat from the States and from working at high profile restaurant Carbone. Anthony is already cooking up a storm and has created a menu influenced by his New York Italian roots. He certainly cooked up a storm for me. I had the loveliest time at Ronnie's, being treated like a Queen in the private dining room and having lovely chats to Anthony while he brought out dish after dish of deliciousness. I'm excited to share this conversation with you. There is general chat about the food, how Anthony came to be a chef and his thoughts on why we must move forward post Covid lockdowns to reclaim our humanity. I can't tell you what a wonderful afternoon I spent at Ronnie's, well, actually I can. It was a wonderful afternoon. If you are looking for an all-round hospo experience from great service and ambiance to excellent wine and exceptional food, then Ronnie's is it.
Oko recently opened in Fitzroy in the heritage listed building that was Hell of the North for a few years. Headed by mother and son team, Luciana and Sebastian Pasinetti, with head chef Kim Maree Moore, Oko is a celebration of all the best things you might imagine about Mediterranean dining and the team draw on their experience, heritage and the passion they have for food and hospitality. The other great thing about Oko is the importance Sebastian, Luciana and Kim place on staff wellbeing and mental health. I sat down with Luci and Kim, and we talked about how they collaborate on the menu and the cooking, I found out more about how wellbeing underpins everything at Oko and I really appreciated how generous and honest Luci and Kim were with everything they told me. I can’t wait to go back to Oko for the Mediterranean fried chicken and the Porchetta, but also because I just really loved these women and the way they spoke about food, each other and how much they appreciate Sebastian’s approach to hospitality. Oko is a special place and I am so glad I just live down the road from it.
Originally from Delhi, Vaishali recently graduated from Le Cordon Bleu with an Advance Diploma in Hospitality Management. She has a particular interest in patisserie and when she used to work as an auditor, she would bake to relax. What started as a hobby became a dream to own and make pastries and cakes for her own café and she decided to come to Melbourne to make that happen. We met at Nikos Café in Oakleigh on a Friday afternoon and the ambiance was at a premium. I loved it. I think people were speaking Greek to one another and people were ordering the amazing cakes and so on. Vaishali said she wants to own a café like Nikos and she would love to do that in Delhi, but hospitality is different in India. People work long hard hours for virtually nothing and it is not seen as a worthy career choice. Vaishali loves the way food and hospitality are celebrated here in Melbourne, but she would love to be home. I so appreciated Vaishali’s generosity in sharing her story and her obvious passion for patisserie and I really hope with time her future plans will become clear.
Dan Briggs is the loveliest guy, a gentle giant with two great passions; his family (including a brand new and super cute puppy he got for Father’s Day) and his job as Executive chef at Chin Chin. Dan has been part of the Chin Chin family for his whole career, which says a lot about the kind of environment the Lucas Group creates, and also about Dan’s loyalty. I went in to Chin Chin on Flinder’s Lane on a Wednesday afternoon and it was pumping. I think it is always pumping. We talked about the phenomenon of this sort of popularity, as well as advice for young people thinking about becoming a chef, and Dan gave me a behind the scenes tour of Chin Chin, which I of course absolutely loved. I don’t know if you know this, but the kitchens at Chin Chin are tiny. They put out so much food every service and it is a party in the restaurant and an absolutely perfectly choreographed and organised magic place out the back. I loved every minute of my chat to Dan and I know you will love listening to it.
Eleven years ago, Tim McDonald and his business partner, Dave Youl, saw a gap in the market and opened Fonda, the bright, happy home of Mexican street food in Melbourne. From the flagship venue in Swan Street, the business has grown to nine venues across Melbourne and now also, Sydney, but the pair ensure that the original concept of the Mexican fonda, a welcoming home that serves food to the community, remains at the heart of all they do. Tim and I talked authenticity when it comes to street food, the importance of wellbeing in hospitality and he did mention is favourite dish, grilled chicken quesadilla a number of times which has put a trip to Fonda firmly on my list of things to do this week.
Apoorva Kunte is the Executive Chef at The Westin Melbourne. Apoorva loves food and knew from an early age that he wanted to be a chef. He worked in hotels in India and the Middle East before coming to Sydney and now, luckily for us, he is here in Melbourne. Wherever he goes, he likes to discover and then showcase regional local produce. So it is no surprise that he has an extensive knowledge of the world’s finest delicacies and that he and his team have distilled this for us in The Westin’s High SocieTea, an opulent high tea running in the Lobby Lounge until October and inspired by the three C’s – caviar, chocolate and cheese. Apoorva talked to me about his favourite cuisine, how essential wellbeing is for himself and his team and the importance of getting the basics right as a chef, knowing and understanding your ingredients and realising that it’s not at all what you see on television cooking shows.
Soon Lim is originally from Kuching, on the Borneo island of East Malaysia, but went to Christchurch, New Zealand at 15 years old to study at high school and then on to Canterbury University. After giving Civil Engineering a red hot go for two years, enter a plot twist and explanations to his parents because he had actually always wanted to be a chef. Fast forward to now and Soon is head chef at Vaporetto in Hawthorn. I have a special place in my heart for Vaporetto because I have spoken to chef owner Greg Feck a few times and I wrote about Vaporetto when it first opened. I love the Venetian food they put up and I love the Venetian fit out with its Murano glass chandeliers and tobacco shop storefront from Venice itself. Every person and their dog seem to be in Europe at the moment, but if you want a little escape without the flight, get along to Vaporetto. They are doing a 'best of' menu at the moment and you will 100% have a great night.
I went over to Yarraville to chat to Ollie on a sunny Saturday morning. I arrived near the end of his 9.00 – 10.30am bakery pop-up and the queue did not get any smaller until just after 10.30am. I had seen a video of Ollie talking about this patisserie, Motte, at the Bastille Day French festival in July. He spoke with such passion about following in his father’s and grandfather’s baker footsteps and it filled me with such joy that I knew absolutely wanted to talk to him. We pretty much just launched right in and talked about baking, community, mental health and his upcoming trip back to Reunion to see his family for the first time in five years. Ollie was very generous in what he shared with me and I went away with a full heart. I also came away with a cinnamon bun which I happily ate in the park down the road and relished every last spicy, sugary crumb. You can find Ollie and his baked goods at markets around the city, but you’ll have to wait a month until he is back from his holiday. But, attendre fait desirer, as they say in French.
I was lucky enough to chat to Gareth and his partner Catherine for Broadsheet right before their Cremorne shop opened for dine-in customers. I probably picked the worst time to hit up Gareth for my own chef chat, given they have only just opened a second shop in Collingwood and they have a baby due any second. Gareth was just finishing up something when I arrived so he set me up with a delicious savoury tart; maple glazed bacon in a leek and almond base, topped with Swiss Gruyère custard. Far be it from me to channel Janice from Friends, but Oh. My. God. Gareth and I just launched right in with a very organic conversation covering, well obviously tarts, but also imposter syndrome, Dinner by Heston, and how fabulous and absolutely pivotal Catherine is in the narrative, community and success surrounding Tarts Anon.
Today I’m chatting to Neil Rocke at The Commons Collective in Ormond Hall, a beautiful art deco complex with various venues like the Moubray Bar, Rose Garden, Conservatory, Chapel and more. I actually felt as though I had stepped back in time in the hall which has the most beautiful wooden panelling and paintings of the hunt and an intriguing collection of old leather boxing gloves plus Christmas wreaths and stars and fairy lights, so a ye olde English pub at Christmas time. I wanted to be in that world and I didn’t want to leave. Neil met me there and took me through a complex labyrinth of passages, the sort of situation where you wish you had some breadcrumbs to drop along the way so you can find your way back, but I took in all the various spaces and the loveliness of the building and we eventually ended up in the office. Now, this was the kind of office I see myself in. There was a bar at one end, but that wasn’t even the best bit, a chandelier made of antlers, walls covered in art and big old comfy leather couches. I loved all that with an ardour far exceeding moderation. But I loved more the conversation I had with Neil. Neil is the epitome of hospitality. He has mainly worked in catering across his career and he is all about the people, both staff and guests and he is all about the food and giving people a good time. When Neil talks about what he does, his eyes sparkle. The Commons Collective is doing some pretty fun stuff over the winter months – Christmas in July, Yum Cha, Cabaret Thursdays, Weekend Roasts – and with Neil in charge of the food and the ambiance of that magical place, you know you are going to be in for an excellent time. Now, I started recording when I was being all awestruck in the Hall, so do come with me as I sort of breathlessly follow Neil through the back passages and up to the office. Nothing like that handheld recording feel, is there?
When I spoke to Michael Smith for a Broadsheet article about Hubert Estate in the Yarra Valley, I knew I needed to hear more. Michael has worked at a number of excellent places over the years, including Jacques Reymond, Tonka, Mamsita, and the way he talks about the food he is putting up at Quarters at Hubert Estate is wonderful. I haven't had a chat to a chef in a while and the thing I love about these conversations is that they really are conversations and I am genuinely fascinated about how the chefs became chefs and what their thoughts are on various subjects related to food and hospitality. Michael absolutely came up with the goods. I loved this conversation and very happily meandered through his own career, but also some ideas around authenticity, wellbeing in the industry and what to do with critics.
Khristina Mulyono didn’t always want to be a chef but when she moved to Melbourne from Indonesia, studying was a way in. She already had a degree in English Literature and a teaching career under her belt so she thought, why not try something else, and embarked on a career as a pastry chef. From talking to Khristina, I get the feeling that she would be incredible at anything she turned her hand to, but luckily for the Melbourne dining public, it is desserts and cakes, and we get to reap the delicious benefits. I loved meeting and talking to Khristina. She is passionate, yet calm and has some wonderful perspectives on life and hospitality.
Today I’m talking to Sarah Bonoma from Dancing Sands Gin in Golden Bay, Aotearoa, New Zealand. This is the second in a series of special edition features showcasing New Zealand suppliers and producers to celebrate the launch of New Zealand Trade & Enterprise’s 2022 Made with Care campaign in Australia. A global initiative designed to raise awareness of New Zealand’s superlative produce, Made with Care shines a light on thoughtfully created and ethically manufactured food and beverages the country is famous for. New Zealand is recognised all over the world for its commitment to creating environmentally conscious, sustainably minded food and wine. This is not a sponsored or remunerated piece, but when I was asked if I was interested in something a little adjacent to Conversation with a chef and I read about the campaign, I jumped at the chance.
Dancing Sands distillery is in Takaka, a tiny town at the top of the South Island and nestled between the Abel Tasman and Kahurangi National Parks and looking out over Golden Bay. It’s a stunning part of the world. The Dancing Sands name comes from the Dancing Sands Spring, one of the freshwater springs within Golden Bay’s Te Waikoropupū Springs — some of the clearest and freshest water springs in the world. Dancing Sands Gin is double distilled, and the botanicals are vapour infused before the spirit is blended with water sourced from the aquifer that feeds Dancing Sands Spring. They had me at gin made from incredible spring water, but there’s even more to the Dancing Sands story and I loved chatting to Sarah and hearing about love, moving across the world and starting a distillery.
Today I’m talking to Huw Kinch, Winemaker and Estate Manager at Pyramid Valley, a biodynamic winery in beautiful Waikari, North Canterbury in the South Island of New Zealand. I usually speak to chefs but I’m doing a series of special edition features showcasing New Zealand suppliers and producers to celebrate the launch of New Zealand Trade & Enterprise’s 2022 Made with Care campaign in Australia. A global initiative designed to raise awareness of New Zealand’s superlative produce, Made with Care shines a light on thoughtfully created and ethically manufactured food and beverages the country is famous for. New Zealand is recognised all over the world for its commitment to creating environmentally conscious, sustainably minded food and wine. The Made with Care initiative reinforces values unique to New Zealand’s food and beverage industry. Pyramid Valley has been a labour of love for two partnerships. Mike and Claudia Elze Weersing followed by Steve Smith MW (Master of Wine) and investor and wildlife conservationist Brian Sheth.
This is not a sponsored or remunerated piece, but when I was asked if I was interested in something a little adjacent to Conversation with a chef and I read about the campaign, I jumped at the chance. I first became aware of Pyramid Valley wines about 13 years ago when I went to a tasting and Mike Weersing spoke. It was one of the most memorable events I have been to. Mike spoke about his wines and his global journey to find the perfect place to make them with a passion that was palpable and everyone in the room was hanging off his every word.
The wines of Pyramid Valley are born in the dramatic limestone and clay-derived soils of North Canterbury. A unique, high-altitude site that is home to some of the most profound Pinot Noir and Chardonnay wines in the world. Grown biodynamically and following natural principles in its winemaking with the use of indigenous yeasts, natural fining and minimal, if any, filtration.
I first met Hugh Sanderson when I was writing about Bar Savarin, a very lovely wine bar which he recently opened with a gun hospo crew in Cheltenham. I loved the way Hugh talked then about the idea behind Savarin, which comes from French writer of gastronomy, Jean Brillat-Savarin who said, ‘To invite people to dine with us is to make ourselves responsible for their wellbeing for as long as they are under our roof.’ That lovely idea of hospitality is super present amongst the team and I really wanted to hear more from Hugh. The team have been waiting for a liquor licence for months so that they can open four nights a week instead of just the one as they have been doing and Hugh and I discussed that in the chat the other day. Literally, the next day I saw on Instagram that the licence has come through and Savarin is able to operate in all its glory. I am so happy for them and I’m happy that Hugh is feeling better, as is the way these days, our first attempt at a conversation had to be postponed because he had succumbed to the spicy cough. There is so much for people in hospitality to consider now more than ever and I am grateful to Hugh for his generosity in sharing where he's at now as well as his story.
Matt Lambert is a breath of fresh air. For all his accolades, awards and success, he’s very down to earth and open. It helps that he has retained an excellent kiwi accent. At least, it helps for me. Matt is one of those chefs who always knew that’s what he wanted to do. At 11 years old, he asked a chef if he could start his apprenticeship then and there. Once he did get started, there was no holding him back. When you read about Matt, you read phrases like “internationally acclaimed Michelin star chef”, “sought-after fixture of New York’s legendary culinary scene” and “top culinary talent. These are absolutely accurate. Matt started his own restaurant, The Musket Room, in New York in 2013 to showcase New Zealand food and wine. Four months in and he had a Michelin star. When he moved back to Aotearoa in recent years, he was welcomed back with open arms, and he is still spruiking New Zealand to those overseas. Except that overseas for now is here in Australia. Matt is based in Auckland but oversees the Rodd & Gunn Lodge Bar Group which fuses good food and hospitality with kiwi clothing brand, Rodd and Gunn. There’s a venue in Auckland, Queenstown, a smaller bar iteration in Chadstone and this month, Matt is in Brisbane to launch the global flagship The Lodge Bar and Dining in the James Street precinct.
Ned’s Bake had me at their “local European” branding. I think it is the French teacher in me. So then I was flicking through their Instagram and saw a lovely photo of Ned with head chef, Remya creating the week’s dinner menu together at Middle Park. They have their arms around each other’s shoulders and they’re smiling widely. I really loved the idea of the teamwork and mutual respect the photo showed. I messaged Remya to see if she would like to have a chat with me and happily for me, she said yes. I usually like to read up on the chefs I chat to so I can think about the questions I want to ask, but Remya has flown under the media and social media radar. Meeting her was such a lovely discovery. Remya has had a wealth of experience in the hospitality industry, growing up and learning her trade in Italy before spending time in the Canary Islands and then coming to Australia. We met at the end of a weekday when Ned’s was shutting at 4pm, so I will absolutely head back over there for dinner and try one of Remya’s pastas one evening very soon.
Given that I love all things French and that I am particularly enamoured with the south of France, having lived there for a year, you can imagine my excitement at going to Tapenade to talk to Laurie Faget. Laurie and her fiancé, Kevin Chassagne opened Tapenade in July last year having created a very provençal-feeling restaurant and French products boutique. I am always desperately wanting to be teleported to the south of France, so I was very happy to sit in a glorious yellow arm chair and hear Laurie and Kevin’s story while surreptitiously clocking the Orangina, foie gras, Amora mustard and packets of Lulu biscuits on the shelves. Laurie has crossed the line between front and back of house and swapped waiter’s knife for chef’s knives and is cooking up food from her childhood in the south of France. C’est genial!
Today I’m chatting to Roger Lu at Laurus in Carlton. I first met Roger last November when I wrote about Laurus for Broadsheet. Laurus is a sleek and sophisticated modern Chinese restaurant which was just about to open. I went down to Carlton after teaching all day at school to meet owner Boyang Fu and chef, Roger, and hear all about it. They brought out beautiful cocktails and a selection of delicious dishes and a couple of hours later I very happily sailed out into the evening with a great story and the feeling that I definitely wanted to go back for the fall-apart beef rib and the caramel-glazed eggplant but also to hear more about Roger’s story. Because Roger is very impressive. He was 17 when he came to Melbourne from China to do the Le Cordon Bleu cookery course. Eight years later and he is head chef and the one who came up with the name, Laurus. This is less surprising when you met Roger. He knows exactly what he wants and is single-minded in his approach to food, his career and the future. I spoke to Roger before service, so, while I’ve ticked off hearing more about his story, I still need to get back for his delicious food. See you there?
Today I’m chatting to Jo Corrigan and Matt Donnelly out on the five acres they farm at Romsey. Romsey is 60 kilometres north of Melbourne and near Mt Macedon. The earth is a rich chocolate colour as a result of basaltic and volcanic lava flows and was the perfect place for Jo and Matt to come when they hung up their chef’s aprons and stepped over to the supply side of the food industry. Having worked in Sydney, Melbourne, London and after a decade running The Commoner in Fitzroy, in 2016, they gave it all away to forage and work on the land. The way Jo and Matt talk about their heirlooms vegetables is a delight. They don’t dress up the fact that it is hard work. They are at the mercy of the weather and the wildlife and random infestations of white moth, but Jo when Jo describes melon varieties as joyful and speaks with such pride and reverence about the warty pink pumpkins, it’s intoxicating. I went out to Romsey with my partner Charlie and you’ll hear him in here too. The podcast is the conversation we had with Jo and Matt as they gave us a tour of the vegetables, so you’ll feel as though you were there, I hope. And I reckon you’ll want to go out and see it for yourself. It’s an incredibly special place. Charlie and I can’t stop talking about it and cooking the big box of veggies Jo gave us has been such a treat. They were in the rich earth yesterday and today they are on our plate. They are delicious and flavoursome and I think you can taste the love that has gone into them.
Today I’m chatting to Melbourne Cake Couturier, Aidan Robinson, from Chic de Partie. And what an absolute pleasure it was. Aidan got in touch with me through Instagram and I am so happy he did. He is one of those chefs who so love what they do that it almost shines out of them. Aidan always knew he wanted to be a chef, and more specifically, a pastry chef. He started his career aged 15 in Manchester, did his apprenticeship at a Michelin star restaurant in Devon before moving to London and getting a job on pastry at Heston Blumenthal’s Dinner. After four years, Aidan was ready for a change and was offered a job at the newly opened Dinner by Heston in Melbourne which he loved for the three years it lasted, before being told, along with the rest of the staff that they would have no job in a week. Valentine’s Day, 2020, was the last day for the restaurant, which, for Aidan meant no sponsorship and major visa problems. We talk about all that in the converstaion, so I’ll skip ahead to the spoiler: everything is fine now, actually better than fine, Aidan is thriving making beautiful treats for his own business, Chic de Partie, working as a private chef to a retired Melbourne entrepreneur, and basically living life like it’s golden. We met at Kirk’s Wine Bar in Hardware Lane in the city and Aidan was a darling and bought me an aperol spritz, so you’ll hear all that too. Photography: Carlz J Soda
What started as a blog and a way to connect to her family, friends and home country, Argentina, has become a thriving business for Paula Delapenna. Paula makes the famous Argentinian sweet treat, alfajores, and sells them online through her site, En Casa Cooking Space, and in markets around Melbourne. She also makes beautiful, rustic cakes based on recipes from her baker grandmother. I sat down with Paula on a very hot day in Brunswick, Melbourne, and learned about a lot more than just alfajores. Paula explained the geography of Argentina to me, as well as the importance of dulce de leche in the culture and lives of Argentinians. She also gave me a box of the ‘alfies’ to try. I am a big fan of caramel and the dulce de leche is next level delicious. Ideally, you too should grab a box to sample while you listen, but if you don’t have any now, you’ll definitely be hopping on her website and ordering them once you’ve listened to this chat.
Esca Khoo is a rising star, although he doesn’t really know what to do with such accolades and the press coverage he has been receiving since he stepped into the head chef role at Miss Mi in the Mövenpick Hotel. Esca is humble and self-aware and never imagined that he would be where he is now. He just really loves cooking and wants to share through his food happiness as well as memories and the things he has learned along the way about his homeland, Borneo. He also wants to be a role model and inspiration for other immigrants doing it tough and wondering when they will really get to call Australia home. Esca arrived in Perth at the age of 15 with dreams of becoming a soccer star. Due to various visa demands and life that happened along the way, he started working in kitchens and discovered a passion for cooking. When I contacted Esca though his Instagram account @foodtureproof to see whether he wanted to be part of Conversation with a Chef, he responded so warmly and openly and in our various exchanges, I felt as though I had made a friend. I couldn’t wait to talk to him and to be honest, I could have talked to him all day. Esca (whose actual name is Kah but he goes by the nickname Esca, meaning bait or lure, given to him in an Italian restaurant where he was ‘lured’ back time after time to work in return, not for wages, but for pizza and pasta) pretty much just started talking as soon as we sat down and I loved that. We talked about his own journey to where he is now, toxicity in the kitchen, the future of food and his desire for change in the industry. Esca was honest and articulate and very generous with what he shared and I feel richer for having spoken to him.
Funny story. I actually met Ha in the spa pool in my apartment building. He was talking to some other neighbours in the pool about restaurants and about his cooking school, Otao Kitchen, which obviously piqued my interest. I told him about Conversation with a Chef and very happily for me, he agreed to talk to me. I had walked past his original cooking school venue on Victoria Street so many times and had often thought about doing a class or having a chat to the chef. On the day I walked down to talk to Ha, it was 32º and I hadn’t realised that he had new premises, still on Victoria Street, but a little further down. I was a molten version of myself by the time I got there, but the school was cool and high ceilinged and quite beautiful. Ha had a big bottle of sparkling water for me and generously gave me a lot of his time and told me his story. Ha is originally from Hanoi in Vietnam and pursued cooking studies in Wellington, New Zealand before coming to Melbourne and working at a hiking lodge on the Great Ocean Road for six years. He now runs a highly successful cooking school in Abbotsford. I'm now booked in for a dumpling Master Class next week and I can’t wait.
When I went to Taxi Kitchen to speak to Tony Twitchett, there was a lot going on in Federation Square. There were people ziplining across the Yarra, Harry Potter fans dressed as wizards, primed for the 20th anniversary free outdoor screening of Harry Potter, The Philosopher’s Stone, children running towards the 16-metre-tall Christmas tree in Christmas Square and the annual firies Christmas drinks in the Transit Hotel downstairs from Taxi Kitchen. It was all go. But when I got up to the restaurant and met Tony, it was calm and Tony gave me his undivided attention. Tony didn’t intend to become a chef. He came to Melbourne to study IT. But working in the kitchens of his brothers’ restaurants, he was quickly hooked and has never looked back. He has been lucky enough to work for some big Melbourne names who have been mentors and an inspiration to him. He is now paying that forward, training up new chefs and sharing his love of the industry. Stuck up above the pass is an A4 sheet of paper that says, ‘Be better. Make it nice.’ I think that says it all.
Today I’m chatting to Vincent Uso from Canelé Alain, a pastry business in Richmond making the unique little cakes from Bordeaux, the canelé. Vincent does a great job describing what these special little treats are in the conversation, so I’ll leave that to him. If you have never tried a canelé, you absolutely must. They are crispy and caramelised on the outside with a molten centre and they are delicious. You can jump on the Canelé Alain website and order them right after you’ve read the conversation.
Hi and welcome to another episode of conversation with a chef. I’m Jo Rittey and I love sharing with you the conversations I get to have with talented and passionate chefs. It’s the back story, if you will, to the food they are putting up. I begin today by acknowledging the Wurundjeri people of the Kulin nation, traditional custodians of the land where this conversation takes place and I pay my respects to their Elders past, present and emerging. Today I’m chatting to Jose Lorenzo Morales, the Pacific regional winner of the S.Pellegrino Young Chef 2019. When I spoke to José, he was preparing to present his dish, Analogy in an online cook-off as the final step in the competition process. Pre-Covid, this event was scheduled to take place in Milan, but, as is the way these days, you can catch it online on YouTube. José was such a delight to talk to. His passion for cooking and for learning more was palpable and I know you are going to love this chat as much as I did.
Telina Menzies came to my attention through her Instagram stories and posts. She posts photos and stories about food and the great people who surround her and her two French bulldogs. You can tell from her posts that she loves what she does and has a heart for the hospitality industry and the mental health of those who work within it. You can also tell from her posts that she is a down to earth no-nonsense person and when I got in touch to ask whether she’d like to be part of Conversation with a chef and we had a chat over the phone, I immediately felt like I’d made a new friend. Then I started reading more about Telina and she really just gets more and more impressive. For a start, she has won multiple awards for her cooking including Chef of the Year, Apprentice of the Year and Nestle Golden Chef’s Hat. She is Executive chef for the Australian Venue Co. group and oversees 30 venues. She is an ambassador for Fonterra’s Proud to be a Chef program and is currently overseeing Meals for Hospo, an initiative that sees hundreds of meals delivered to hospitality staff every week. While she’s proud of these achievements, and rightly so, what drives her now is mentoring the next generation; inspiring them and ensuring that the industry is in good hands.
Alan Chong made the news last year when he gave meals away to struggling Melburnians negatively impacted by the fallout from Covid-19 lockdowns. Over the course of a few months, Chong and his team at Tian 38 cooked and gave away hundreds of meals to people who weren’t eligible for JobKeeper or JobSeeker, people who were vulnerable and struggling in the pandemic. But that’s not the only reason Alan and Tian 38 are special. Alan loves serving people the food he has created. He sees it as one of the most intimate acts you can do for someone. He hasn’t closed over any of the lockdowns and continues to serve his chilli crab jaffles, Hainanese chicken and vegemite osso buco rendang to adoring fans. Responding to the demand, Alan’s Tian to You boxes are now going out to suburbs beyond the 10km radius of Flinders Lane, so if you live in Doncaster or Melton, Hughesdale or Mordialloc, amongst many others, there’s a day of the week with your name on it and a memorable culinary experience to be had.
I must admit to being slightly starstruck when talking to Diana Chan today. And when I say slightly, please read, enormously. Diana is the 2017 MasterChef Australia winner and beams a sunny and positive presence out through her socials. So, you can imagine my excitement when PR company, Harvey Taylor got in touch to see if I would like a chat. Of course I would! I asked Diana what her greatest successes have been over the last four years, since leaving a corporate job working for Deloitte to take part in MasterChef and then launch a career as a celebrity chef. Tough question actually; Diana has had so many successes. The one she shared is certainly a standout. The range of dumplings she put out with Golden Wok were the 2020 top selling product in the freezer section of Coles and Woolworths, with 21 million pieces sold and customers wanting more. Diana is (obviously) a firm believer in giving things a go and next on the agenda is her own range of homewares. As she was talking about these I was making frenzied notes to self to buy these when they come out. This was an incredibly uplifting chat on a lockdown day in Melbourne and I am grateful for Diana’s generosity of spirit in sharing so much with me.
Nabila and I have been trying to catch up for months. Lockdowns and life threw everything in our path. So, by the time we had coffee on Domain Road, South Yarra, I did feel as though I was catching up with an old friend. But Nabila is like that, a breath of fresh air and a bold honest voice in hospitality. It has been months since I had had a conversation with a chef, and my goodness, talking to Nabila was the best conversation to get back into it. Strong, articulate, endlessly impressive, with chefs like Nabila in Melbourne, hospitality is in excellent hands. Nabila actually started talking immediately I met her, and I only started recording a couple of minutes in so that I didn’t miss a thing. So, she, quite rightly, starts off what I am sharing with you.
Babylonia Fitzroy, on their website and at their entrance on Smith Street, invites you to “enter into enchantment”. Owners Prawin John Peter and Geoffrey Sage have created their own little oasis down in Fitzroy, complete with a lush outdoor garden courtyard and waterfall wall feature and a cosy front dining room with green leather banquettes, cream-painted brick walls and antique Turkish lampshades. It’s lovely by day and magical by night. They have shisha, belly dancing, cocktails, and of course, beautiful Middle Eastern food cooked by Vishal Rawal. Vishal loves cooking. It was such a pleasure to listen to the way he describes the food he makes, combining spices from his Indian heritage with the Middle Eastern dishes he has discovered and loves. You would absolutely want to work with Vishal because he is a hands-on chef; in amongst the pans at service and washing up at the end. For Vishal, team-work is vital and making diners happy, his goal. I was hanging off his every word and I reckon, now that the Melbourne days are becoming slightly darker and more chilly, this is a place you can warm your soul.
I was so excited to be able to talk to Guillaume Brahimi in the month his Melbourne restaurant, Bistro Guillaume celebrates its 10 year anniversary. I knew all about Guillaume having watched with delight, his five minute Plat du Tour episodes which aired on SBS during the Tour de France and featured famous dishes from the regions the cyclists were passing through. Guillaume’s love of cooking and his love of sharing French cuisine was palpable. Guillaume was born in Paris and knew from a young age that he wanted to be a chef. He did his apprenticeship at the iconic Aux Charpentiers restaurant, which closed in 2016, but had opened in the 1860s. By the early 1900s this was the place for young chefs to learn the trade. So can you imagine doing an apprenticeship there?! He then worked at the Tour d’Argent and then Jamin under Joel Robuchon, a celebrated French chef who is described as having rewritten the rules of fine dining. He found a very apt student in Guillaume who rose through the ranks to become sous chef before announcing that he was leaving for Australia. Robuchon famously told him that he had never heard of that establishment, but off Guillaume went for Sydney in the nineties. Nothing could hold him back and he successfully ran Bennelong in the Sydney Opera House for 14 years from 2001. With all this in mind, obviously I was excited. Our chat was very brief, because understandably, Guillaume is a busy man. He was on the way to pick up his son and would be celebrating his daughter’s 15th birthday that day as well. But it was absolutely a case of quality over quantity and Guillaume came up with some gold.
I spent a very happy 40 minutes hanging off Adam Woodfield’s every word when we sat down to chat at Salted Egg in newly opened Quincy Hotel in the CBD. Then I spent another very lovely 40 minutes eating some of his food, as he sent out Coffin Bay oyster with red nahm jim, smoked eel betel leaf (which I have to say was the most incredibly layered flavour experience I have ever had in a single mouthful), then there was raw kingfish with green nahm jim and the pop of finger lime and finally Son in law egg, soft boiled and lightly battered with a beautifully caramelised yellow bean sauce. (Just as well I walked in and out of the city on the most beautiful autumnal Melbourne day.) Adam is pretty famous, actually, having worked with many of the Melbourne greats, starting with an apprenticeship at Stokehouse, he ran iconic Jimmy Liks in Sydney, he owned and run his own restaurant in New York before being head-hunted for Hamilton Island, and then, luckily for Melbourne, he came back here, and yet he is the most down to earth, self-aware man who was so generous with his time and his stories and I felt so lucky. You absolutely must get way down Little Collins Street and try Salted Egg for yourself. Please say hi to Adam from me and eat all the wonderful food.
I often have to pinch myself that all these incredible chefs are happy to sit down and chat to me. I’m very lucky. Sometimes I contact a chef I’d like to talk to and then on the way to the chat, I have that whole imposter syndrome thing where I think, hang on a minute, this person is actually a really big deal, who do I think I am? That’s what happened on the tram on my way into the Melbourne CBD to talk to Joe Vargetto. He is a big deal. He represented Australia in the international Bocuse d’Or competition in 2001, has written a beautiful cookbook telling the story of his Sicilian heritage and how that fits within the Australian context, has two very successful and long-standing restaurants, he has worked with top chefs around the world and is, himself a top chef with seemingly boundless energy, drive and a love for hospitality. As soon as Joe came out of the kitchen, apart from the fact he was looking for a guy because of my name, the conversation flowed, and I felt as though I had made a new friend. With people like Joe around, Melbourne hospitality is in very good hands. I recorded this on Friday afternoon at Massi, Joe’s city restaurant. It was the first Friday Massi was open after a year of being shut down due to the pandemic and it had been a busy lunch. The background noise in this recording is quite loud, but an absolute testament to the fact that Joe’s guests did not want to leave and were very happy sitting around ordering more Campari and living life like it’s golden.
When I walked into Swadist Indian Craft Kitchen, Narender Godala was preparing a tea of fresh ginger, turmeric, lemon and honey. It smelled delicious and when he gave me a glass of it afterwards, I could absolutely feel the goodness coursing through my veins. Narender started his working life in India in IT but when he moved to Melbourne, he retrained as a chef. After a few years working in restaurants around Melbourne, he has opened Swadist to hero the food from the southern region around Hyderabad where he comes from. When he talks about the food he is cooking, his whole face lights up and I am sure we could have talked for hours more. As it is, you are in for a treat and I can’t wait for you to hear Narender’s story.
When I got in touch with Dylan Kemp, he was just about to leave Melbourne for Queensland where he has relocated to open a new venue in Kings Beach. We resolved to chat once he was settled, and I was impressed when he got in touch just a couple of days after arriving to make a time with me. This was one of those conversations where I was absolutely hanging off Dylan’s every word. Dylan’s understanding, appreciation and connection to food and cooking started from a young age when he would forage, hunt and cook over fire with his family in the North Island of New Zealand before crossing the ditch to continue his chef trajectory, working at the likes of Dunkeld’s Royal Mail and picking up the 2019 AHA Victoria Chef of the Year award as well as becoming one of the executive chefs overseeing hospo giant, Australian Venue Company’s many venues. You are in for such a treat because Dylan’s love of being a chef comes through every word and the way he articulates that passion is why I love talking to chefs.
I was surprised to learn that it has been four or five years since I last spoke to Gabriel Alonso at Juliet Melbourne. Time certainly flies when you’re having fun. I loved talking to Gabs back then and hearing about his love for hospitality and it was so lovely to be able to talk to him again. Gabs has done the 2020 pivot, but still speaks with absolute passion about what he is doing, which is baking bread from a micro-bakery in Preston. When I visited, the whole family was there and I felt very welcomed. Back Alley Bakes make bread, and currently hot cross buns, to order and Gabs was sorry he didn’t have a loaf to give me. But he did give me a bag of tomatoes from his garden and some beautiful thoughts about baking bread, embracing change and living life the way you want to.
David Dellai and I have honestly been trying for weeks to sit down together for a chat and all sorts of lockdowns and other things got in the way. But it was absolutely worth the wait to sit down with David and talk about his love of food and cooking, which stems back to when he was four years old, actually, and to find out more about Venetian food and how to choose the best white truffle. David showed me an eerie video he took on Saturday night just outside the door of Il Bacaro on Little Collins Street. It was our snap lockdown 3.0 and to see no one on the streets of central Melbourne on a balmy evening on Valentine’s weekend was another bleak reminder of all our hospitality heroes have been through. I am so happy they are back on the pans and cooking up a storm and that we get to reap the benefits.
Prior is a huge pastel cathedral ceilinged wonder of a café on High Street. It has a log burner in the middle for cosy winter days, a courtyard out the back for the warmer weather and a delicious menu every day of the week. Nick Korceba has been in the game for 20 years, but still speaks with passion about the food he is preparing. His former boss, Shane Delia, has spoken highly of Nick’s work as head chef at Maha where he was for a number of years, while also running Greenfields, an events venue in Albert Park. Nick is not scared of hard work but has worked towards a more sustainable approach which allows him to spend more time with his wife and three children. I love that.
Cru means raw in French and I’m always going to be drawn to anything French. I’m also drawn to the fact that Cru is very close to where I live and just one of those lovely neighbourhood wine bar treasures that serve excellent food and wine in a lovely setting. Whether you’re sitting out the front in the buzz of the café deli area or out the back in the courtyard, it’s just a really nice place to be. Sam Green and I sat out the back and talked about food, which at Cru is not just French but Mediterranean with some fusion along the way and Sam’s own journey as a chef.
Today’s chat is with Florian Ribul at Vex in Westgarth. I wrote about Vex for Broadsheet a few weeks ago and was keen to catch up with Flo again to hear more. He made me a coffee and we sat outside in the courtyard beneath the huge lemon tree. The way Flo talks about cooking and his life as a chef is captivating, and I could have easily listened for hours. But since opening a couple of months ago, Vex has garnered such a following that Flo and co-owners Rory Kennedy and Owen Probert have a big day ahead weaving their Vex magic, and I was keen to get home so I could share this glorious conversation with you. And so here it is. I think you’re going to love it.
Talking to Ryan Berry, head chef at Naughton’s Hotel in Parkville was a real highlight. Ryan is thoughtful and extremely articulate in the way he talks about cooking, teaching younger staff how to navigate chef life sustainably and with joy, and how important it is to work with ethical and passionate suppliers and producers. Naughton’s is one of those beautiful pubs where the décor makes you wish it was your home. The first thing you notice when you walk in the door is the Specials board taking pride of place on the wall. Unlike many Specials boards, this one celebrates the farmers and the fishermen who provide the food on your plate. For Ryan and the team at Naughton’s, where food comes from and how it is treated from start to finish is vitally important. I loved every minute of this chat and I can’t wait for you to hear it.
Today’s chat is with Julian Summer at Pier St. over in Portarlington. Pier St is owned by Peter Roddy and his partner, Ebony Vagg and a couple of years ago, I had the absolute pleasure of speaking to Peter at their other venue, Noir in Richmond. Julian did part of his apprenticeship at Noir before heading to Perth and working at Wildflower, a fine dining restaurant specialising in native ingredients and respecting the aboriginal seasons. Being invited to join Peter and Ebony in their next venture speaks volumes for Julian. I was lucky enough to be a guest of Port Phillip Ferries and Pier St last Saturday and I have to say, what a lovely day trip. It is so easy to take 1 hour 40-minute ferry trip from Victoria Harbour across to Portarlington, Pier St is literally at the end of the pier, so you can drink beautiful Bellarine Peninsula wine, and eat Portarlington mussels (or of course their other dishes!) then get the ferry home again. Perfect. As was my chat to Julian, who braved the wind outside the kitchen to tell me about his journey and discoveries as a chef and how excited he is to discover more.
Some people dream of rooms lined with books, and I do love that idea too, but for me being surrounded by bottles of wine just feels right. So, sitting amongst the glowing bottles and talking to Kyle Nicol about his time in a Michelin star restaurant in London and his love of native ingredients, was absolute bliss. I have been into Rascal before to talk to Elliott Pinn who was head chef at the time and remains a partner, but he has now handed over the reins to Kyle to embark on other adventures interstate. Rascal is in good hands. Kyle is thoughtful and creative, and I especially appreciated his parting gift of a jar of kimchi and a bottle of pawpaw and bottle brush vinegar, made under his other hat of Poison and Cures and used in the restaurant.
When I first arrived in Melbourne nine years ago, I was introduced to a beautiful group of Mexican Irish friends, or more specifically, Mexican girls with Irish partners. My initial fascination with this particular combo quickly disappeared into the absolute joy I had spending time with them. Many in that group have moved on or away but I feel lucky that Greta and her Irish Dave remain amongst my dearest friends in Melbourne. It is thanks to Greta that I learned about Sando Mateos and his Mexican sweet breads. Sando arrived in Melbourne in March and despite being in a new city in lockdown, has established a thriving business selling conchas, or sweet bread. This weekend is a biggy because of the Day of the Dead festivities and all the dead bread (pan de muerto) he is making. It was a joy speaking to Sando and knowing that there is another lovely Mexican doing great things in Melbourne.
Luigi Esposito grew up in Naples and from a very early age, learned the art of Neapolitan pizza when he worked with his nonna selling pizza fritta to locals. He went on to work in pizzerias around Naples and then the world before deciding to come to Sydney. In the 11 years he has been here, he has opened four successful pizza restaurants, earned the title of best Neapolitan style pizza in Sydney and next Tuesday is excited to be opening The Amalfi Way on Woolloomooloo Wharf. The Amalfi Way is a celebration of the beautiful food and atmosphere he experienced on holidays with his family on the coast of Italy. We may not be able to visit Italy for real for some time, but Luigi’s restaurant looks like an incredible alternative.
Today’s chat is with Bree Gaudette and Matthew Ronalds from Hello Friend Foods, well, Bree and Matthew actually ARE Hello Friend Foods; a Melbourne company making delicious vegan cheese. Quite cinematically, the pair met when Bree took an Uber Matthew was driving, they got talking about the cheeses Bree had been experimenting with, Matthew thought it would make a great business and that was it; there has been no stopping them ever since. Hello Friend Foods make vegan mozzarella, haloumi and a cheese sauce that is everything you are looking for in a cheese sauce. You can buy their products online or in loads of cafes, restaurants and delis in Victoria. They have begun branching out into New South Wales, Queensland and the ACT as well, so hop on their website (www.hellofriendfoods.com) to find out how you can get your hands on the goodness.
Today’s chat is with Dougie Thompson. I reckon Dougie is the nicest guy in hospitality. He has been in the game for 15 years, working his way up from kitchen hand to head chef in a few venues around Melbourne before he and his wife went on a two year adventure around the world in search of street food. When he got back, “the country was on fire” and not long after, we were in lockdown. To keep himself busy and to help others, Dougie went into true hospitality mode, joining the Alex Makes Meals crew up at The Hardware Club, making meals for frontline health workers, then doing online cooking entertainment with his friend and Conversation with a chef alumni, Sam Pinzone, called Bad Chef, Worse Chef. He is currently run off his feet with his creation, Dinner At Dougie’s House, which started when he posted photos of what he was cooking and locals asked him to “cook it for them”. That has now turned into a five night a week venture where he gives his profit to various charities and where he very happily gets to come up with a different menu very night. Talking to Dougie made me so happy and I absolutely think you should hop on his Instagram @dddougiez and Facebook Dinner at Dougie’s House for vibrant photos and Dougie’s soulfilling commentary. Dougie Johnson is what Melbourne in lockdown needs. Thanks, Dougie. Now I do apologise for the sound quality. We had a few issues with phones cutting out and I am fairly certain Dougie was cooking while talking to me, but bear with us, because it’s a cracker conversation. Photography credit: Danny Pareno
Elisa Hill comes from regional Sao Paolo in Brazil and has worked in kitchens of Paris and London, including two Michelin star restaurants, and she had her own restaurant in Sao Paulo before coming to Melbourne not long before we went into lockdown. Lockdown hasn’t stopped her; she has been cooking up a storm on Instagram, posting photos of beautiful dishes paired with glorious wines and sharing videos taking viewers through various steps to make some of the dishes for themselves. This was a fascinating conversation. I loved every minute of it and can’t wait for you to listen.
Chris Orr is a Glaswegian chef with an infectious lust for life and passion for hospitality. Widely travelled and having worked in many different kitchens with a range of cuisines, Chris has lots of great stories and ever-evolving ideas for food. He now has his own kitchen, Wee Man’s Kitchen, which runs out of the Tallboy & Moose Brewery in Preston. It’s an open kitchen because Chris loves to chat to customers and be part of the dining experience. He’s serving up the food he loves, so Scottish with Italian, Indian (and whatever he fancies really) influences. You can get Haggis Pakora and chips with curry sauce, but you can also get bona fide gnocchi, and I reckon his Sunday roasts are becoming the stuff of legends. This chat made me so happy and I think you’ll be pretty happy listening to it.
I always love stories about chefs from other countries who have heard about Melbourne and are drawn to its reputation for diversity and excellence in food. I like it even more when they get here, love it, stay and become part of the Melbourne community. That’s what Michael Craig and his partner Shelley Scott did when they came from Glasgow eight years ago and not only has it been great for them, but it has also been great for us. Michael and Shelley are the team behind the wildly successful vegan venue, Red Sparrow Pizza, first opening in Collingwood and then in Prahran. Melbourne is lucky to have them.
Meni Valle is an Australian-Greek food educator, cookbook author and glorious cook. While she has always been an advocate for Mediterranean food and its benefits, her latest cookbook, Ikaria, not only extols the food, but also the way people are eating that food and living together. As the title might suggest, this book features the food of Ikaria, a Greek island which has been included amongst the five ‘blue zones’ in the world where diet, community and lifestyle seem to contribute to longer, healthier and happier lives. Before I spoke to Meni, I watched a little video clip from when she was on the island, cooking with and learning from the people there. It is a beautiful place and hearing her talk about what she experienced there is a lovely reminder to take time to eat together, rest, walk in nature and appreciate those around us.
Raph Rashid is the tonic Melbourne needs right now with his weekly instalments of favourite homecooked meals from his childhood in Raph’s Mean Cuisine on IGTV and YouTube. He cooks up a storm in his Brunswick home kitchen and every week invites a friend along for the ride. It’s uplifting and wholesome and you can’t help but smile the whole way through. But this isn’t the first time Raph has brought goodness to Melburnians; he’s been doing it for a long time. Raph was a pioneer in the food truck scene here and is responsible for Beatbox Kitchen, Taco Trucks, All Day Donuts and Juanita Peaches. Plus, he’s just a really nice guy and has great taste in music. I had such a lovely time chatting to Raph and I can’t wait for you to share the joy.
I’ve never actually met Iain Alexander in person. He reached out on Instagram just to say that he had been inspired by the chats on Conversation with a chef. At the time he was living in Melbourne and working for Scott Pickett, which is always going to go in someone’s favour, as far as I’m concerned. Then I looked at the photos of the food he was putting up on Instagram and I thought, this guy loves cooking. The next time I checked his feed, he was in Christchurch, my hometown, and that certainly piqued my interest some more. Caught up in lockdown, his plans to just stop over in New Zealand on the way to stages in the US and the Netherlands were more than a little thwarted. But from talking to Iain, I get the idea that he’s not someone who gives up easily and he is certainly not someone who will rest on their laurels and hope for the best. Iain has set up Hazel Dining, offering Christchurch diners an intimate dining experience in the comfort of their own home. Iain came out with some ideas that really made me think and I loved every minute of our conversation. I absolutely know you will too.
I had planned to speak to Matt Bentley in March. Then we went into lockdown. Over the isolation period, photos of the incredible food he was making at home would pop up on Instagram and his love for cooking and exploring new food ideas jumps out of the shots. I knew this already from all the great conversations I’ve had with chefs, but it really came home to me seeing photos like Matt’s that being a chef isn’t just a job to so many chefs, it’s their passion, their life. Matt has travelled extensively and worked in several countries around the world, but I loved that he said he thinks this is the best job so far, at Hotel Lindrum in Melbourne.
I first spoke to Rotem Papo three years ago when he was head chef at L’Hotel Gitan. Since then he has been head chef at Bar Lourinha and now he is at Golda which he co-owns with Adam Faigen of Gramercy Social fame. As on the previous occasion, Rotem showed his absolute love of hospitality by offering me a glass of wine and a selection of the baktana, or small bites, which they had just put on the menu that day. Usually as I’m writing up my conversations, I look out for the gems the chefs say to use as a pull quote to break up the middle of the written version. Rotem came out with so much greatness that the whole transcript should really be highlighted. He absolutely loves what he does and now at Golda is finally able to share the food from his childhood with a very lucky Melbourne dining public.
Charlie Cheng…great name…owns Shinbashi Yakiniku in Brisbane and in Melbourne. I went in to the Lygon Street venue back in November 2018 when the restaurant reopened and I wrote about it for Broadsheet. It had actually opened a year prior but due to damage from a fire in a neighbouring restaurant had to be closed and completely refitted. Yakiniku is a style of Japanese barbecue where guests cook over the coals at their table and Shinbashi is particularly known for its high-quality wagyu beef. I had a chat to Charlie on the phone because he is up in Brisbane. Again, as for all in the hospitality industry at this time, Charlie has the Covid-19 crisis on his mind. My thoughts are with all hospitality owner and workers at this time.
I spoke to Rob Kaboord for Broadsheet when Lekker first opened as a pop-up in the Windsor Hotel at the start of January. He was generous then with his time and the stories he shared with me and he was generous again this time. When we spoke in January, we had no idea that by now, mid-March, the world would be in such a state of flux. The hospitality industry has been particularly hard-hit, and the Covid-19 crisis is, of course, front of mind for many of us. Rob shared some insights and inspiration with me which highlight his hospitality heart and why he is as well-loved as he is within the industry and wider community. This is a longer than usual conversation with a chef, so grab a cup of tea, settle in, and enjoy.
This was a wonderful conversation to have and also a little tricky to write up, because this was a no holds barred all over the place conversation. Laurent Rospars has so many great stories to tell. Originally from Brittany, he has now been in Australia for just over 30 years and in fact celebrated his 30th anniversary in 2016 by cooking with a few of his chef mates, among them chefs I have also happily chatted to; Annie Smithers, Ian Curley, Pierrick Boyer. Laurent worked at Michelin starred Maxim’s and the Tour d’Argent in Paris, was the Executive sous chef at the Hyatt Hotel in Kuwait; he has owned and run his own restaurant in St Kilda as well as led teams in several other high profile Melbourne venues and for the last 12 years has been the head sommelier for the Melbourne Pub Group. We met at the Prince Hotel in St Kilda and Laurent took me for a walk around the building, showing me where his boutique wine bar and store, Little Prince Wine, is still being built and then back in through the newly reopened pub. We sat upstairs in the dining room and I drank a glass of beautiful muscadet while we talked food, wine, rugby and anything else that popped up along the way.
The word that stands out from my chat with Anthony Power of Pilgrim in Liverpool is fun. Anthony has been involved with a lot of projects and businesses and life adventures and he describes them all as fun. And I believe him. He exudes a palpable appreciation of life and the many opportunities he has been offered and has seized in both hands. He has worked in Canada, New Zealand, Mexico, London and now Liverpool. He was one of the first 30 Mo Bros who launched Movember back in 2003. He has also authored a cookbook and was a founding member of Root+Bone magazine. He is back in his home town of Melbourne for one of those opportunities; a chance to work in with chef Paolo Arlotta from Herbivorous Nights, Orlando Marzo, the 2018 World’s Best Bartender and Liinaa Berry, sommelier. This gun team are, over two weekends at the end of March, curating a pop-up seven-course tasting menu at Young Bloods in Fitzroy, inspired by the ancient pilgrimage through France and Spain called the Camino de Santiago.
Michael Harrison is a modest guy. I could already tell that by talking to him. He worked in excellent venues with top chefs right from the start and you don’t get to work your way up to head chef by the age of 26 without having something pretty stellar about you. Pretty Little owner, Michael Byard, is full of praise for his new head chef, and mentions the level of creativity that Michael brings to the kitchen every day. The way Michael (the chef) describes some of his dishes has me hanging off his every word and desperately searching my diary for the next free night to get back over to Balaclava.
I have been thinking a lot about native food recently. But not as much as Jude Mayall, also known as the Outback Chef, thinks about native food. She is a passionate advocate for eating the food grown on the land we walk on and she has been supplying chefs, home cooks, distillers and manufacturers with a vast array of native ingredients since 2005. The dream was always to have her own place to share her passion and two weeks ago, she opened the doors to The Wild Food Farm in Rhyll, on Phillip Island, and the dream became a reality.
Ideally I would have chatted to Daniele in Canggu once he is there in April and working as head chef at Squid Inc., but, you know, Richmond is fine. Really. But make a note of Squid Inc. for your next trip to Bali because you will be in excellent hands. Daniele Piras was born in Sardinia, but his family moved to a little town near Venice when he was 5 years old and he has many happy memories of eating delicious bowls of pasta with friends growing up there. At 18, he came to Australia as a landscaper but quickly gave that away for the kitchen where he has worked his way up through the ranks and fortuitously landed in the kitchen of Vaporetto, the Venetian eatery run by Greg Feck, Kim Coronica and David Wickwar. Perfect. Even more perfect is Greg opening a balinetian (Balinese Venetian fusion) restaurant in Bali and taking Daniele with him. Living life like its golden and well deserved, I say.
Trevor Perkins is a passionate advocate for eating locally and sustainably. Local for Trevor is West Gippsland where he cooks overlooking the vines at Hogget Kitchen. On the day I visited, the countryside was shrouded in a smoky haze from nearby bush fires, a reminder of our footprint on this land that was so well managed and appreciated for thousands of years. It is good in times like these to talk to good people like Trevor, whose love for his region, the produce he works with and for teaching and sharing his knowledge with others is inspiring. Trevor’s connection to the land started in his childhood and is now woven into the food he puts up. After our chat, he took me for a tour of Hogget Kitchen to check out the hanging charcuterie, native garden, the carcasses waiting to be butchered on site and the huge bookshelf of cookbooks ranging from the Larousse Gastronomique to Rohan Anderson. I want my house to look and feel like Hogget Kitchen; it’s a gem of a place.
When I spoke to Will, it was 7 o’clock in the morning in London. He was eating a peanut butter sandwich and drinking Lapsang tea and I could hear his children running around in the background. Will Meyrick has a lot going on. He has seven restaurants under his belt in Indonesia, produces a riveting travel vlog on YouTube where he delves into the history and culture of the country he’s in and tells the story in a completely gripping way, he’s a photographer, a restaurant consultant and he looks a bit like Ewan McGregor. But that might be just me and the fact I know he’s Scottish…He is also part of RAA Travel’s Tasting Australian Airlines, a two-day event bringing people from Melbourne to McLaren Vale in April. Will joins Darren Robertson from Three Blue Ducks to cook lunch at Star of Greece, a Mediterranean restaurant overlooking the ocean in Port Willunga. As I mentioned, this was a phone chat, so the sound quality isn't always fabulous, I'm afraid.
I drove to Sorrento on a hot summer’s day and sat out on the terrace at Morgan’s, rosé in hand and with a beautiful view of the beach and bobbing boats in the bay. I ate grilled snapper with a snow pea tendril salad. It was delicious. I have been wanting to talk to Paul Wilson for a while now. Other chefs I have spoken to refer to him in glowing terms and he enjoys an immense reputation on Melbourne’s culinary landscape. After lunch, when I strolled over to meet him Paul was flicking with relish through Josh Niland’s The Whole Fish Cookbook…a Christmas gift, he said. Our chat started in at that point and I loved every minute of it. Photography: @theeibleimage
Mo Zhou didn’t start out wanting to be a chef, but a gap half year at Uni opened his eyes to Europe and food other than the Chinese food he had been brought up with. A stage at Attica and then roles at Vue de Monde and The Press Club further inspired him and he started doing a series of pop-ups here and in his native China, always challenging himself to use local ingredients, even if he had never heard of some of them before. In October, Mo launched Gaea, his intimate degustation restaurant in Fitzroy where his monthly menus are a testament to his passion and inventiveness as well as a homage to the foraging and walks through nature that inspire him.
Drumplings is one of those places where you walk in and the dining space is cool, kinda edgy, you already know that the food is going to be delicious because, well, cheeseburger dumplings, how could it not be? Then you walk out the back and it’s all artificial grass and street art and basically an oasis of courtyard chic in the middle of the city. I sat down with Jeremy Raven, the magician behind the intriguing dumpling fillings (also beef rendang, mac & cheese, bangers & mash), and it seemed right that he sat against the painted wall so that it looked as though a butterfly had alighted on his shoulder. Jeremy exudes the delight he has in food, hospitality and traveling the world and I had a lovely time talking to him.
C.S. Lewis was definitely onto something when he had children entering other worlds through a wardrobe. But Galah goes one step further with creating a bottle shop as an entrance to a super cool loft bar. Native Australian floral ingredients, feature bark hangings and retro Scandi-ish furniture is already a great start. Then there’s the food by Rory Greenwood-McNeair. Rory is humble and not willing to buy into the descriptions others have used of him. He wants to celebrate the seasons, the available ingredients and he wants to respect the ideas the owners of the venues he works in. A genuinely lovely guy, Rory is cooking up crocodile and native bush herbs and just being awesome about it all. If I were you, I’d be slipping in through the bottle store, heading up the stairs and experiencing the loveliness for yourselves.
When I walk into Hotel Argentina, Dan greets me with a kiss on the cheek, “That’s how we say hello in Argentina,” he says. I love it. After our chat, I am treated to a delicious array of dishes from the new menu, inspired by the food he grew up with in Argentina. He tells the table that what he is bringing out…his mother-in-law Rosa’s pickled eggplant, grilled meats and octopus with house-made chimichurri, baby corndogs, zucchini flowers stuffed with blue swimmer crab, grilled veal tongue with white anchovies…would be par for the course at Sunday lunch in an Argentinian family. He explains that it’s all about lots of the food on the table for everyone to share and that Sunday lunch can last for hours as everyone eats and talks and spends time together. Sitting at the long table upstairs eating delicious food as the sun was setting, it felt lovely to be part of that tradition.
Sascha and I sat up at the long table at the Alps in Prahran, surrounded by walls of wine and talked all things food and culture and philosophy and goodness. I really only scratched the surface of Sascha’s wealth of knowledge, experience and his passion for the food industry. We could have talked for hours, but that would have been a really long podcast to listen to and transcript to read and this way, I’m leaving you with your own questions and thought spin-offs to explore. You’re welcome.
Congress has been around for just over a year, gracing the corner of Peel and Wellington Streets in Collingwood. Jack Stuart stepped in as head chef from the start and has been plating up delicious food ever since. Jack is a stickler for quality and has chosen suppliers who favour one thing and do it well. If it’s not in season, Jack’s not using it and he gets huge amounts of joy from seasonal produce at the absolute pinnacle of its seasonal arc. Going by his Instagram account, he has a thing for the perfect loaf, crusty on the outside, springy on the inside with just the right amount of hole to bread ratio. I think ordering the Tasting Menu is certainly the way to go at Congress, so that you can appreciate the techniques Jack has learned along the way, his flair for innovation and the love he has for what he’s doing.
I sat down in the opulent Silks restaurant at Crown Melbourne with Chef Jack Aw Yong, renowned as the global godfather of Chinese cuisine. This month he is sharing with the lucky Melbourne dining public, his passion and talent garnered from years of hard work, determination and creativity. Chef Jack is a storyteller and I was treated to incredible tales from his culinary journey, interwoven with snippets of life wisdom about the importance of love and of following your dreams. I was literally on the edge of my seat, loving every minute of it.
When I was doing some reading about Elliott before going to chat to him, I discovered that, not only is he from Christchurch, but he went to school in the same part of town as me, albeit years after me…! I mention age, only because Elliott might be young in years, but he has had quite the trajectory, starting off his career cooking in one of New Zealand’s best restaurants, Pescatore, in the George Hotel overlooking Hagley Park in Christchurch. He moved to Sydney after the earthquakes and worked at Flying Fish Restaurant, and then Sepia, before moving to Melbourne to the head chef role at Doot Doot Doot at Jackalope on the Mornington Peninsula. From a park view, to a view over the water and then of vineyards, at his latest venture, Rascal, the Sydney Road view might not be quite the same, but Elliott and his team look set to change the Brunswick dining landscape all the same.
When I walked through the door of The Hardware Club, Nicola greeted me like an old friend and revealed that he’s a big fan of my podcast and knew that he was the 202nd conversation I’d had. That made me happy and I felt happier still, perched up at the bar and hearing all Nicola’s stories of growing up in Verona, doing a stint in a hotel restaurant in Mykonos and coming to Melbourne. A year ago, he and his friend, Andrea Ceriani bought the restaurant they have called The Hardware Club. Housed in historic Hardware House, they have renovated the space, painted the pillars mustard yellow as a homage to traditional trattoria in Italy, installed a gleaming custom-made pizza oven in the corner of the room, and at the same time made sure the diners who had been coming to the place in its previous incarnation for up to 30 years, are still catered for.
Nathan Scarfo is set to open his first solo venture, Risi in Moonee Ponds in March next year. Full of personality, it's clear from the moment you meet him that Nathan loves life, hospitality, and cooking Italian food. This is one of those conversations that would definitely have been great as a video because of the animated way Nathan talks about his passion. I learned a lot about risotto, reality tv cooking and Moonee Ponds and I can’t wait to try Nathan’s risotto in March. We chatted in a rooftop bar so the sound quality is atmospheric to say the least, but then you'll really feel as though you were there!
Today’s chat is with Sandy Melgalvis at Common Ground Project, a not for profit café just out of Geelong. Sandy and I sat outside surrounded by chooks, raised garden beds and children running around in the sun. I had been wanting to talk to Sandy for a while because her name kept coming up in very favourable terms when I spoke to other chefs. Note to self: do not listen to Russell Brand in conversation with Lena Dunham while driving to talk to a chef; my brain was scrambled from the intellectual repartee and the struggle was real to get any kind of coherent statement out which you’ll hear as I go on. Luckily for me, Sandy thoughtfully articulated everything I wanted to know and gave me even more to think about on the drive home.
When I went into Gatherings, Alex apologised for the mess, saying it had been a big night the night before. It wasn’t messy and I loved the way Alex’s eyes lit up as he described giving over his space to Mitchell Teirney and Josh Hunter for their dinner: Know the whakapapa (origin/story) of your kai (food); a celebration of traditional Maori food, storytelling and wisdom. Alex, himself, is all about provenance, basing his plant-based and seafood menu, as well as his wine list on produce and wines from the Canterbury region. I ate here the other night and it was an absolute delight. Dishes such as yakitori potato and braised cabbage, cured yolk, mustard, porcini echo the season and the region and were delicious. Lucky Christchurch.
Flip Grater is an impressive woman. She is an incredible singer-songwriter who has toured the world several times, she has produced four albums and an EP, with one of those albums produced in Paris, she has two cookbooks under her belt and with husband, Youssef has, perhaps most importantly created a beautiful little daughter, but also vegan deli and wine bar, Grater Goods by day and Pinot Cave by night. I have been looking at photos of her vegan treats on Instagram and couldn’t wait to go in for a visit while I was in Christchurch. Flip poured me a glass of rosé, made up a beautiful deli board and delighted me with her story.
When I arrive at Prince Dining to chat to Executive chef Dan Hawkins, the dulcet tones of a jackhammer greet me and I’m pretty sure my face said it all. Sensing my alarm at competing with construction for a conversation, the lovely Prince Hotel staff took Dan and I up to one of their beautiful hotel rooms so that we could chat in peace. Dan is a gentle giant; tall and with a really lovely approach to equilibrium and wellbeing, be that with food, family or the people he works with.
Hamed Allahyari is a Persian chef with a heart for others and a soul-warming laugh. I went out to Sunshine Café in Sunshine the other day and spoke to the café’s other founder, Jen Morillac. Jen and Hamed wanted to run a place that could employ refugees and asylum seekers who have had difficult time finding employment in Australia. In addition to that loveliness, they are making everything except the croissants from scratch, aiming for zero waste and do not have takeaway cups. Hamed wasn’t there when I visited, so we had a chat on the phone.
Eileen and I sit down to chat by the open sash window in Napier Quarter, the cute blue stone wine bar on the corner of Napier and Kerr Street. Afternoon sun is glowing on the buildings opposite and deliciousness wafts out from the kitchen. After the chat, owner Daniel Lewis helps style my portrait taking, brushing away any stray dust from the outside wall…and from Eileen…This feels like family and it feels like home and I like that a lot.
Maureen Andrews is one half along with Gary of the mother and son team behind Ostrich and the Egg, a South African eatery and bar in St Kilda. When you step through the door off Inkerman Street, you feel as though you are stepping into their home. Not surprising really, Maureen has always welcomed and cooked for family, friends, the community and once for 500 people at a volleyball club event. She loves it! Gary made me a cup of rooibos tea and I sat down for a lovely chat with Maureen before she got called away to cook for customers. There’s a braai out the back and Friday night is braai night on a revolving vegetarian, seafood and meat basis. And this Sunday (22nd September) you’ll find Maureen and Gary at the Queen Victoria Market’s African Festival.
Mandacaru is a little bit of a different business model to the usual restaurants I visit. Chef and owner, Carla, is making delicious Brazilian dishes from a commercial kitchen just a little bit bigger than a shipping container out the back of an industrial-feeling complex in Port Melbourne. She feeds people through Menulog, Deliveroo, festivals and larger catering events. Carla’s eyes dance when she talks about food and cooking up dishes from her homeland. The Brazilian community is certainly happy she is doing what she is doing and once you try some of her food, I’m fairly certain you’ll want to be part of her community too.
I first met Dave a couple of years ago when I went into Embla for a chat. It would have been one of the first conversations I did and I loved every minute of it. Back then, Dave was running between Town Mouse and Embla and doing an excellent job at both. And here I have a confession to make. I ran into Dave a few months ago at a restaurant opening with his now fiancée, Narani. She introduced me to Dave and I didn’t recognise him. The shame. But, now, get on board with me on this…have a look at the photo from my previous chat and you will see a different man. Same drive, same genius with food and same heart for the hospitality community, but Dave Verheul in 2019 is a happier man and that happiness is palpable. I still asked the same dumb question about his cooking style and I love that Dave has now put me in my place twice about how much chefs hate being asked that. But I’ll tell you something else, when I arrived at Lesa at 4pm at staff mealtime, Dave’s first question was, Are you hungry? This is a man who is the epitome of hospitality and I'm not the only one happy that he’s cooking for us in Melbourne.
This was such a great chat. They are ALL great chats and I can’t even tell you how lucky I feel to be able to sit down with these chefs and just ask them anything I want to about their craft and things that occur to me mid-flight. Dan was so accommodating and really went with the flow and answered all of my questions in such a delicious way. All this, while the end-of-winter sun slanted in through the art deco windows of the Prince Dining Room. This is a pretty special place and Dan is cooking up some pretty special food which you should definitely try. It’ll be obligatory after reading this chat or listening to the podcast.
When you walk into Curly Whiskers in Brighton, it feels as though you are walking into someone’s house; someone who is an amazing cook. It smells divine and Silas and owner, Rosalin are working in the ‘kitchen’ which is very much part of the dining room. A large island bench divides the back workspace from the tables and chairs; everything is on display and they like it like that. So do the diners. When I arrive, Silas is grating fresh truffle, which he tells me is for the crème brûlée...
When Cristian Folletti talks about pasta, his eyes light up and he gesticulates even more animatedly than ever. A relative newcomer to the chef scene, Cristian had already learned a lot from his aunt in Italy, who is also a chef, so that when he went to culinary school, what he was learning was really the ‘why’ behind the ‘how’. I sat down with Cristian, his girlfriend, Olivia and his Executive Chef, Karan Negi at the Melbourne Marriott Hotel for a chat. Olivia darted around taking photos of us all and Karan also contributed to the conversation, but I was particularly fascinated by Cristian’s obvious delight in being a chef, and his very clear passion for pasta. Once the interview was over, Cristian, Olivia and I kept talking, they invited me over for dinner and I left the Marriott feeling as though I had made two lovely new friends. How great!
Jessi is eating a bowl of dahl when I go in and asks if I mind him eating. Having seen how crazy busy it gets at Daughter in law from the minute the doors open at 5 o’clock, he should definitely be having that dahl. There won’t be a moment to breathe until much later in the evening. We have the chat and then I’m about to leave when Jessi insists I have a cocktail. It’s a new one they’ve been experimenting with; Negroni with coconut cream. Then he brings out a couple of oysters to have with it and ceremoniously squeezes a lime wedge that has been dipped in black lava salt. Then he brings me Batata Vada, a mustard, curry leaf and potato croquette. Delicious. I pop my head into the kitchen to say good bye and thank you. Jessi looks disappointed, telling me his head chef, Jimmy (who I’ve spoken to before at Bomba) is just making me a ball of happiness, a mouthful of crunchy, creamy, sweet, sour and spicy and some scallop ceviche. Here you have to picture me standing in the kitchen eating delicious food and feeling a bit like a rock star while the other chefs were surely thinking, who is this woman?
Joe Grbac was my first Conversation with a Chef four or five years ago when he was at Saint Crispin and had the idea that talking to chefs would be a great thing to do. Today I went in to the city to have a chat with him about his solo venture, Saxe, which has been running for two years and Saxe Kitchen, the more casual downstairs sharing-plate type iteration. We really got straight to the meaty stuff, discussing the state of the industry and the ways a chef can keep on growing. Fabulous.
I drove to Flinders on the Mornington Peninsula on a wet and wild winter’s day to talk to Michael Cole, Chef of the Year Australia 2019 and 2017, and finalist in the international Finale of the Bocuse d’Or in Lyon earlier this year. I imagined I’d hear about his journey as a chef from the beginnings of a life on the pans through to such spectacular results, and I certainly did. I also heard about an avalanche in Japan, love rekindled and a genuine passion for cooking excellent food. I felt as though I had been treated to the most wonderful story, and the best things is, I’m sure there is more. I have the feeling that Michael has many adventures yet to come.
Marco went from loving cooking with his mother and grandmother in León in the northwest of Spain to working in research and development at Mugaritz, a restaurant in the Basque country that annually makes it into the top ten restaurants in the world. He would spend 45 hours a week working on all the possible things you could do with asparagus, for example, and found joy in stretching his imagination and technique through the freedom of creativity. A desire to travel brought him to Melbourne three years ago where he started at Stokehouse and has now moved downstairs to Pontoon as sous chef. He has had a huge role to play in designing the new menu, which is now Basque in flavour, and has some quirky additions inspired by his time at Mugaritz.
Akad, or AK, as he is known, always loved cooking as a child and couldn’t wait to leave school to become a chef. Having learned the ropes at Rockpool, he went on to Il Bacaro in Little Collins Street and then tried his hand at Chinese Fusion. He’s now happily cooking Middle Eastern street food at Balagan Kitchen and, reading over out chat again, I laughed at my reactions of obvious surprise and pleasure at his use of ingredients and the way he described some of the dishes.
I’m a big fan of Scott Pickett’s restaurants and, in fact, my very first Conversation with a chef was with Joe Grbac who, at the time, was co-owner of Saint Crispin With Scott. Having had a chat to two of Scott’s chefs already, Tim from Matilda and Valentin from Estelle, I was not about to miss out on talking to Charlie at newly opened, Lupo, especially having tasted some of Charlie’s food at the opening night this week. Talking to Charlie, I was reminded about the greater loveliness of these chats I get to have; the insight I get into the bigger picture of hospitality and community, not only in Melbourne, but across the world.
My friend, Alycia put me on to Savannah, the junior sous chef at Stokehouse Q. Savannah sounds like an incredibly driven young chef on paper and it is even better talking to her in person. As much as I love talking to people passionate about what they do, I am a terrible phone conversationalist. Lucky for me, Savannah pulls me through with her irrepressible energy and ways of seeing things. Mark my words, there will be a film made about Savannah, one of these days, and I am convinced she’ll put out a book when she gets just a little further down the track. She is certainly a chef to follow.
Pierrick Boyer has worked with some of the top chefs in the world, the likes of Alain Ducasse, Christophe Michalak, Pierre Marcolini and Stephane Leroux. Pierrick himself, has won many awards and most recently was acknowledged as the Gault and Millau Pastry Chef of the Year in 2017. What’s even more impressive is that having closed his business last year due to loss of business following ongoing construction across the road, he has now picked himself up, re-opened his Prahran café, Rêverie, and has two more venues opening this month. That shows grit and certainly needed the passion for his career that Pierrick talks about in our conversation.
On the day I chatted to Tom, it was his 32nd birthday. He has plenty to celebrate. Co-owning three popular restaurants in Melbourne with your brother and best mate is not something to downplay. And Cheek is super cool. It spaces the fun out over three levels. The first floor I knew about and boasts a restaurant with a backlit wall of wine bottles and a dry ageing fridge sporting a lot of meat. Tom gave me the tour up one floor to Peaches, the ever so pretty blush-pink bar with suede booths and terrazzo tables and then up yet another flight of stairs to the rooftop where you can be king or queen of all you survey and also toasty warm now the temperature has dropped because of the massive heaters and underfloor heating cleverly wrangled into the bench seats.
I visit James Kummrow on the coldest day in Melbourne so far this year. Dodging hail showers, I’m happy just to get through the doors of Fatto Bar & Cantina relatively unscathed. The I meet James, a man who exudes contentment. This is a man who loves what he does. Talking to him, I am treated (as I so often am talking to chefs) to moments of rapture as he articulates his passion for hospitality and the journey that brought him to where he is. And where he is, Fatto, is a place he even comes to, even on his days off, as a patron. That’s how much he loves it.
When I step into Etta on a grey and bitter day, the first thing that strikes me is how delicious it smells in there. The open kitchen is a hive of industry and whatever it is they are preparing, I wish I was staying for dinner. The second thing I notice is how great the music is, and the third, how lovely it always is to talk to a fellow New Zealander. Charlie is softly spoken and perhaps not someone who likes to talk about himself. That doesn’t stop him from articulating his passion for good food and cooking in a way that made me grateful for the opportunities I have to listen to and share stories of hard-working and thoughtful chefs.
I’d been trying to talk to Matti Fallon for a while and it just didn’t happen. Timing is everything and when I sat down with Matti, it all becomes clear, as you’ll read further down in the chat. When I was trying to catch up with him in January, he was working on his Broadsheet Kitchen suburban Chinese takeaway from the nineties offer AND becoming a father. He was so lovely about wanting to be part of Conversation with a chef at the time, but very understandably had a whole lot of life coming at him. Talking to him now was perfect because there was a whole new story to hear.
When I announced to Daniele that I would be recording our conversation so that I could type it up later AND that I would need a photo of him, he looked like someone who had been told I would be stealing his soul. I like to think that Daniele’s enjoyment of the conversation steadily improved as we went on and that there was no soul-stealing involved. For my part, I relished every minute and learned a lot about Italian food, the possibilities of Italo-Asian fusion and about the head chef of Tipico.
My chat started somewhat unconventionally with Almay asking me some questions. Turns out we have a lot in common. We both love French, history and academia, we both knit in what spare time we have, and we both arrived in Melbourne eight years ago. From there our paths diverge. Almay co-owns and runs highly successful Neighbourhood Wine Bar with her husband, Simon, and I have the pleasure of getting to talk to her about it.
In a very six degrees of separation moment, as I wait to talk to John Rivera at Lûmé, his sous chef, Michael comes out to say hello. Michael is Jodie Odrowaz’s (last conversation) boyfriend and when I talk to John about that, he tells me Valentin (conversation before Jodie) is coming in for dinner that night. My mind is blown and I love it. It feels right that all worlds should collide here. John is passionate about bringing people together and creating a sense of community amongst chefs, especially the younger generation. He wants to make a difference and I can feel that intention through the way he speaks about cooking, collaborating and learning more.
I learned so much from chatting to Kirra. Actually, my mind was completely blown about 12 minutes into the conversation as Kirra patiently tried to explain Le Petit Chef interactive dining. But Kirra, herself, even without the fancy eating adventure that goes on upstairs from the wine cellar, is a super impressive chef, who soaked up everything she could in the kitchens of The Royal Mail and is now singlehandedly wrangling the kitchen at Cardigan Place Cellars. She is definitely a chef to watch.
Martin and his wife, Melissa, are living the dream. They own and run Red Gum BBQ in Red Hill, a burgeoning foodie destination on the Mornington Peninsula. Martin wasn’t always the pit master he is today. He worked for local government, but a visit to a barbecue joint just out of Miami sealed his fate. From the first bite, he was hooked. He is now completely obsessed, constantly seeking more information, tips, and tricks. He told me that he had switched from dreaming about meat to dreaming about wood, although, as his wife reminded him, he did dream about making the perfect sausage the other day…
Sushil is the kind of person you talk to and come away feeling better for it. He has an infectious happiness and enjoyment of life and his chosen path that is soul filling. Having worked in an impressive line-up of restaurants with excellent chefs, Sushil has recently taken over the wheel at Tokyo Tina and he is having a really great time.
Talking to James Wilkinson made me hungry. He talks about food, dining and cooking with such relish. I was completely enchanted by his tales of lunches in Paris, learning to cook with his grandmother on a farm in Kaikoura, and the griddle scones his grandfather would make when his grandmother went to Bridge.
I could have happily sat and talked to Ryan Dolan all day. I’m not entirely convinced that Ryan felt the same way. He had prep to do and a booked-out restaurant to cater for, but I was absolutely on the edge of my seat in a kind of over the top, slightly nerdy way getting to talk about my two great loves; French culture and cooking. This man is a thinker and a doer. He has a larger vision of hospitality and his role as a chef within it all and where he wants to take it, as well as a respectful appreciation of traditions and what has gone before. To all those who have booked out Cabale so that I can’t get in for quite some time, the French phrase, vous allez vous regaler, says it all…you are in for such a treat.
Chacho’s is a new place in Windsor touting Mexican pizzas. Intriguing. We all love a bit of fusion, right? One Dan [Xerri] came up with the idea and brought another Dan in to execute it. Described by other writers as a pizza guru, Dan Pegg himself is much more self-effacing and certainly acknowledges the input he has had to get him where he is, which I have to say, is a pretty awesome place.
Elichi is a beautiful Indian restaurant in Black Rock. Through the window I can see the sea. Punit jokes that he will be able to go over there in summer on his breaks. Punit’s eyes light up talking about his journey as a chef and all the things he has learned and continues to learn. He is the epitome of the life-long learner, embracing every new opportunity and always pushing himself to do better.
Eitan Doron is in at Half Acre 24/7 at the moment. Even when its closed. Such is his desire to get everything right and create the kind of hospitality we all dream of where food, service and ambiance blend together to create harmony. Eitan gave me a lot to think about. I love it when that happens.
The sun streams in through the huge windows where I’m seated at The Atlantic on Southbank. Queen of all I survey, and despite fantastic views of the Yarra and Melbourne city, I’m distracted by the array of fish and seafood dishes coming out of Nick Mahlook’s kitchen. Tasmanian oysters with red wine vinaigrette, raw and cured fish of various types and various preparations, split grilled leader prawns, grilled octopus, roasted hiramasa Kingfish with smoked mussels and little pops of saltbush on the side. It’s a feast and I’m keen to ask Nick all about it.
When I arrive at the farm in Cardinia, Blayne is out on the rotary hoe. Blayne is the head chef at O.MY, the restaurant he runs with his brother, Chase, in Beaconsfield, and he is absolutely the poster guy for living life like it’s golden. He exudes joy, satisfaction and vision and I hang off his every word. O.MY has two hats but flies relatively under the radar in terms of publicity. For six years, these brothers have been putting in the hard yards, growing the food they plate up in their restaurant and absolutely loving their life.
As soon as I walked into Citrico Daniel started talking and enthusiastically showing me around the restaurant. This beautiful two storied space in Fitzroy North is absolutely worth the tour. Daniel generously gave me an hour of his time as he talked about his love of cooking, his desire to share the Peruvian food of his youth, depression amongst chefs and the beautiful cycle he feels part of where the sun encourages growth, the product is harvested and he then gets to cook it and feed people. I felt privileged to have shared that hour with Daniel and happy that Melburnians get to eat this food made with love, great humility and respect.
Richard and Suzanne Pavlov have realised a long-held dream to open a Lebanese restaurant and they have done it with great success with Bekka in Moonee Ponds. Inspired by a recent trip to the Beqqa Valley, a fertile valley known for its wineries and good food, and by their own heritage, they want to transport their guests to a Middle Eastern paradise.
Julian Hills thinks about food 24/7. That might seem like a prerequisite for a chef, but Julian takes it to a whole new level. Having dreamed for years of opening his own limited seating degustation venue, his newly opened Navi in Yarraville is allowing him to really stretch his imagination and his skill to explore and discover and surprise his diners and is an absolute delight for all concerned.
I drove out to TarraWarra Estate to talk to Mark Ebbels on one of those intermittently stormy/sunny days where the sky was sort of darkly menacing but at the same time beautiful and cloud cascaded down the valleys of the foothills forming the backdrop to the Yarra Valley. Mark grew up amongst all this beauty before venturing overseas to work in some of the world’s top restaurants including The Fat Duck and Bacchanalia. Now he’s back championing seasonal and local produce and has introduced an intriguing plant-based element to the winery menu.
Reuben Davis is a magician. Seriously. I loved sitting down to talk to Reuben about the food he’s putting up at The Press Club but eating his food was a whole other dimension. I don’t often get to eat the food. Sometimes I talk to chefs because I have eaten the food. But often I go in and talk to chefs and really want to go back and eat the food but life gets in the way. To have been able to talk to Reuben and then experience what he was talking about in the same night was incredible. It was theatre, it was magic and it was totally delicious.
Tim Young is the epitome of the creative and passionate chef who loves what he does but is very aware of having to do the hard yards and push yourself to succeed. His journey has taken him from Hamilton to Melbourne to Holland and now back to South Yarra where he’s running the beautiful Matilda alongside an excellent team.
Alicia started working at Fancy Hanks before she went off travelling round the world checking out barbecue joints around America and doing a bit of couch-surfing. She eventually ended up working for a year in the kitchen at Restaurant Andre (No 14 on the Worlds Best Restaurants). The Fancy Hank’s team are glad they’ve got her back to head Heroes Melbourne and I feel lucky to chat to her. Alicia exudes a calm excitement and a great deal of gratitude for the path she has been able to take in her relatively short but action-packed and very successful career to date.
I turn up to chat to Alicia before service at Heroes and the music is pumping. I suggest maybe turning it out so I can record the conversation and then realise that I sound like an old lady…
Simon Moss is an open-hearted chef who tells it like it is. Maybe it's because he's a kiwi. That might be my bias. Regardless, he is all about hard work, learning more and appreciating the run he's had so far. That goes a long way in my book.
Tong Li wanted to learn how to cook Mexican food, so he packed his bags, bought a one-way ticket to Mexico, learned Spanish and cooking pretty much at the same time and has been cooking up a storm every since. Now he's in Port Melbourne and boy does he have a story to tell.
Peter Jo, or Kimchi Pete as many people know him, has done the hard yards, earning his stripes in all facets of the hospitality industry, while at the same time distilling what it is he really wants to offer. He's close now that he has opened his own place, Shik, in the city. Chatting to Peter was a wonderful chase down the proverbial rabbit hole as we followed his thoughts and dreams and quest for the truth of what he does. Wonderful!
Another Kiwi making his mark on the Melbourne food scene, Daniel Wilson earned his stripes in the States and then reached for the stars in Melbourne. He was rewarded early on, jointly winning The Age 2003 Good Food Guide Young Chef of the Year and then continued his trajectory gaining hats at now closed Huxtable, the restaurant he co-owned and cooked for, and being at the forefront of the Melbourne gourmet burger wave with Huxtaburger.
Peter Roddy is one of those incredible chefs who has been working in restaurants since he was 14 years old and still exudes passion and delight at cooking. Having spent his formative years working with the likes of the Roux brothers, Gordon Ramsay and Terence Conran, Peter has earned success in every restaurant he has worked in and now has his own hatted restaurant in Richmond.
Sitting down with Sophie Storen is a soul filling experience. Her energy and excitement for creating food is palpable and her story had me on the edge of my seat, wanting to hear more and maybe secretly even wanting to be her.
The salmon I had for lunch at Ryne was the best thing I've ever eaten. No joke. Every mouthful was eye-closingly good. You know when you see a really good film and it ends and you just want to hold that feeling in your heart for a little bit longer? That's the feeling I had eating Donovan Cooke's food. Not bad for a lad from Hull who wanted to be a bricklayer.
Dave Verheul has a way with food that makes you at once raise your eyes in delight at the cleverness, as well as sink down into the cosy deliciousness of it. This is a chat from a couple of years ago and its one of my favourites.
When I arrive at Tipico, Domenico is busy making pasta. Owner Andrea Da Como pours me a beautiful glass of Barbera and before I know it, I’ve embarked on a glorious ride of a conversation with Domenico, including a tour of the kitchen and some of the most wonderful descriptions of team work in the kitchen I have ever heard.