The Gem Lab Podcast: Recent Episodes
Jeremy Rothon
Those in authority who rant and rave for hours because a mistake has been made may be ‘servicing their own frustration’, but they’re harming those on the receiving end of their tirades. Breaking someone’s spirit will never bring out the best in anyone. Some of us get lambasted in the ‘nicest possible way,’ only realizing hours later that we were being told we messed up badly.
Mahatma Gandhi said it best: “Freedom isn’t worth having if it doesn’t include the freedom to make mistakes.”
A hand shake in the diamond industry has been the way of sealing a deal for many years. It is known as Mazal u Bracha. Sadly some people in our industry don't keep their word, commit to taking a gemstone and then going back on their word. This is unacceptable in the gem and jewellery industry.
It is essential that all artificially treated stones are disclosed to customers. Failure to disclose a treatment can be considered a misrepresentation by law.
Last last couple of years have been difficult for bossiness and we need to change if what we are doing isn't working.
Have a Heart for Gemmology
The gem testing labs in SA should be extremely busy but alas, we battle to stay afloat. Worse, we continue to see loads of gemstones sold as something they’re not.
As I have mentioned before, in a survey done some years ago, 80% of gemstones passing through our lab were synthetic, artificially treated, or imitations. In other words, they had been sold fraudulently.
Overseas labs charge a lot of money to have stones checked, which enables them to afford the equipment needed to do the job efficiently. That, in turn, assists the trade to buy and sell with confidence.
For example, a 27.19ct blue sapphire was brought into our lab and the client, quite correctly, wanted to know what the origin was and if there was any evidence of heat treatment. We, at The Gem Lab, performed our usual exacting evaluation, concluded that the stone was Sri Lankan, and it had not been heat-treated.
This stone was going on auction for between $120 000 - $150 000. My fee was R350, but it took the client six months to pay. To sell the stone in the US, a GIA (Gemological Institute of America) report was required. It didn’t surprise us one bit that the GIA delivered the same evaluation as we had provided. The fee, however, was R12200 and AGL (American Gemological Laboratory) was going to charge R14000.
Sad but True
Going back some years when GEMSA (Gemmological Association of South Africa) was up and running, they would run monthly workshops, sharing knowledge and even going to the trouble of getting expert guest speakers from the local university to give a talk. This was so poorly attended that they had to close the association.
During COVID lockdown, we were offering zoom sessions on various subjects, free of charge. It was such a poor show that we stopped it. Our sole purpose, born of our own passion and purpose, is to assist the trade, offer education programs, run courses, but very few want it.
When I moved back to Durban from JHB in 1989, I was asked to open a branch in Durban. We put on a full cheese and wine evening, with an audio-visual presentation on how to identify some of the most common fakes. I personally went around to the jewellers inviting them and their staff to this free evening with the intention of opening a branch in Durban. One person arrived!
Recently I was thinking of opening GEMSA up again, so I sent out a poll on a Facebook group to see who would be interested. As only a few responded, so once again I realized it is going to be a total waste of time and effort.
This is a call from the wilderness, asking you to help us to help you sell with confidence. I state unmitigatedly, that I have dedicated myself to helping this industry for over 30 years not just because it is in my nature to help people, but I am passionate about gemmology and seeing our industry thrive. The people we have helped have blossomed and that is the only reward I need to make this all worthwhile.
We, at The Gem Lab, have an inexhaustible amount of passion and dedication, but we need you to help us help you.
Johannesburg and Cape Town, you have this facility on your doorstep, support us, please? Durban, I am afraid you lost your lab due to the lack of support. But for those in KZN who need us, we are only a courier away.
This week we have three students writing their Gem-A exams in South Africa. I have personally met these three ladies and they are the most awesome beautiful, dedicated people you could ever meet.
They are your future gemmologists and believe me studying for the Gem-A Diploma takes many hours of study and dedication. I would hate to see South Africa lose them due to the lack of support from the industry that needs gemmologists now more than ever before.
“Successful people maintain a positive focus in life no matter what is going on around them. They stay focused on their past successes rather than their past failures, and on the next action steps they need to take to get them closer to the fulfilment of their goals rather than all the other distractions that life presents to them.” - Jack Canfield
Are you seeing the truth of the above words? Many people are focused on obstacles or the past. Do you notice that they are like hamsters on a spinning wheel - busy, but going nowhere? Getting up-close-and-personal, I boldly ask; where is your focus right now? On the obstacles - ‘the trees’ - worrying so much about hitting the target that you wind up missing it?
We are witnessing more and more how the world around us is changing. How are you changing? How is your enterprise adapting? I acknowledge that we have lost some customers, possibly due to them still trying to sell off the stock they bought over a year ago before Covid. One client that I have known for many years has stopped sending us work without a word being said. A simple phone call or response to an email would have been appreciated, but nothing.
So the question remains, where is your focus? Worrying about the business you have lost, on the way things were, or the lack of communication from someone you have done business with for many years? Any of the foregoing will take a lot of unnecessary energy, which could be better spent on aiming for your target.
To connect or for more information, articles and content visit www.gemlab.co.za, you can connect with Jeremy on social media as well:
Without question, your quality jewellery items are as precious to you as the Crown Jewels are to England. With so many stories out there about people being swindled and blindsided to their huge disappointment, trustworthy valuation is critical. Please know that we feel for you.
There’s no question that one needs to be equipped to do jewellery valuations correctly, especially with the sheer volume of crafty criminals hoping to make a quick buck. That means locating trustworthy and reputable jewellery evaluators who use the right equipment for the most accurate results.
But expensive equipment alone cannot be relied upon. The evaluator needs an intimate knowledge of stones and a boatload of experience in the industry. On top of that, accurately interpreting test results is a specialty in itself.
We are here to take the burden of uncertainly off your shoulders. We have upgraded our equipment to deal with the latest in treatments, imitations, and synthetics and confidently take responsibility for every valuation we do, so if there is a dispute, it will not affect your business at all.
Here is a very short video of a straightforward Gem ID that will give you an idea of what we need to do in order to identify the gemstone correctly: https://youtu.be/VgKFd1eKPMU
To connect or for more information, articles and content visit www.gemlab.co.za, you can connect with Jeremy on social media as well:
Running a gem testing lab is not a money-making business. Most won’t give us a passing thought till there is a need for a precious or semi-precious stone appraisal. Well put is the saying from ‘Oh, my bad… I forgot I only exist when you need me for something.’
Not that we’re blaming you, but understand that just because we deal with prized gems, doesn’t bring us equal fiscal reward.
Spare a ThoughtThe labs in SA should be extremely busy but alas, we battle to stay afloat. Worse, we continue to see loads of gemstones sold as something they’re not.
As I have mentioned before, in a survey done some years ago, 80% of gemstones passing through our lab were synthetic, artificially treated, or imitations. In other words, they had been sold fraudulently.
Overseas labs charge a lot of money to have stones checked, which enables them to afford the equipment needed to do the job efficiently. That, in turn, assists the trade to buy and sell with confidence.
Help Us to Help YouThis is a call from the wilderness, asking you to help us to help you sell with confidence. I state unmitigatedly, that I have dedicated myself to helping this industry for over 30 years not just because it is in my nature to help people, but I am passionate about gemmology and seeing our industry thrive. The people we have helped have blossomed and that is the only reward I need to make this all worthwhile.
We, at The Gem Lab, have an inexhaustible amount of passion and dedication, but we need you to help us help you.
To connect or for more information, articles and content visit www.gemlab.co.za, you can connect with Jeremy on social media as well:
“As long as greed is stronger than compassion, there will always be suffering” Rusty Eric
Greed is a global disease that continues to cost people dearly, and one that has – sadly - been around since the beginning of time. The problem is that so many people are in a desperate situation right now, many through no fault of their own. But these tough times aren’t an excuse to cheat or scam people out of their hard-earned cash.
Those that can afford to buy are buying so-called great deals at the expense of desperate people and pushing the prices down as much as possible without a thought for the seller. This could be called good business but, in my book, it is not. Pay a lower price by all means and get a fair deal, but don’t let greed enter the equation and take advantage of someone who is battling to feed their family.
A Head’s Up
We have seen an increase in synthetics over the past two months, and a stone we haven’t seen too often until now is synthetic aquamarine. Synthetic moissanite is also being passed off as diamond and believe it or not too many people are being conned. The reason is that the deal is such a “good” deal that they can’t bear to let it pass.
To protect yourself always insist on a simple Gem ID, no matter who is supplying it for your own peace of mind. Our price is only R350 per stone including vat.
To connect or for more information, articles and content visit www.gemlab.co.za, you can connect with Jeremy on social media as well:
“There’s no reward without work, no victory without effort, no battle won without risk.”
The risk versus reward debate is familiar to us all. From dabbling in the stock market to choosing a life partner, the premise is the same. I have tried to find this balance in business, and in fact, life in general. Is the reward worth the risk? Just how risky is it? What do I need to know to mitigate the risk? Opening a business is a risk, certainly. However, the rewards – if managed correctly – can far outweigh the risk.
Hard Work Works
In my 30+ years in business, I have seen that hardworking business owners end up with the rewards that they were looking for. Yes, unforeseen circumstances get in the way (we’re looking at you C-19) but they just put their heads down and push through. As long as you’re not doing the same thing and expecting different results, you’re going to have a successful business.
Something that I’ve noticed recently though, is that the economic battle that we are all facing has resulted in some business owners thinning out their staff and taking on more work themselves. Smart business owners have chosen instead to talk with their staff and try to find some middle ground; perhaps considering part-time employment until things normalise. It’s actually quite amazing what a group of highly motivated people can do when placed under pressure.
Keep it Local
If your business is mainly tourist orientated, then it is time to start marketing to the local people. It’s important to always look after the locals and try and get enough local business to survive without the tourists. That way, when the tourists come back this will be your bonus. Locals are your most important clients, as they are here to stay.
To connect or for more information, articles and content visit www.gemlab.co.za, you can connect with Jeremy on social media as well:
Gem Alert – Misrepresentation!
We have come across several colour-changing synthetic sapphires doing the rounds that are being sold as alexandrite. These synthetics have been around since 1902 so people are being told they are alexandrite and believe they must be natural because they belonged to their grandparents.
Most of the “alexandrite” we see are these synthetic sapphires which, unfortunately, make an excellent imitation. Chatham-created gems make an exceptionally good synthetic alexandrite which has the same chemical composition, optical and physical properties as the natural stones. I was also informed that there are some people marketing ruby as red sapphire! Gemstones are named by colour and red corundum is ruby, period! All the other colours are sapphire.
We also had a client who asked us to check a diamond that a private seller was selling before purchasing it. It was apparently a 0.95ct F VVS1 diamond. It turned out to be synthetic moissanite and when I told the seller she immediately told me that I was wrong as a diamond dealer had told her it was a synthetic diamond. Fortunately, we checked the stone in the presence of the buyer and the seller. Could you imagine if we hadn’t? The seller would have been convinced we swapped the stone. By this stage, everyone in this industry should know the difference. Once again, we saved our client thousands of Rands.
I believe according to the law one cannot plead ignorance. If you are in this industry, you should know better than to buy or sell gemstones without having them checked by a reputable lab or QUALIFIED gemmologist.
Take care out there and use us if you’re not sure, that is why we are here!
To connect or for more information, articles and content visit www.gemlab.co.za, you can connect with Jeremy on social media as well:
“What simple action could you take today to produce a new momentum toward success in your life?” ~ Tony Robbins
There are so many parts in a steam train and every single one of them must work together with the other parts in order for the train to function efficiently. Yet, a single damaged nut or bolt could bring these massive powerful trains to a halt.
This tells me that if we all pull together, or if you and your staff pull together focused on a single outcome, there is no doubt you will achieve your goals. Every individual is a cog in the business wheel and comes with their own unique set of strengths.
Do you know the innate soft skills of your team? You may be surprised at what hidden talents they have that remain untapped and can be put to good use in your business. For example, interpersonal skills, adaptability, creative ideas, problem-solving, setting up systems, or critical thinking are natural talents that add to the value of the whole team.
Make time to sit with your team and unpack who they are and what they can offer.
To connect or for more information, articles and content visit www.gemlab.co.za, you can connect with Jeremy on social media as well:
Please DON’T EVERbuy a diamond set in jewellery without a report from a reputable lab that has graded the stone out of the setting. Stones are graded in the setting, and the colour of the metal can affect the colour of the stone considerably.
Colour is the most difficult element to grade in a setting, and that is why is it acceptable to be at least two colour grades out when graded in a piece of jewellery. Two colour grades can make a huge difference to the price though, and the amount you are willing to pay. Clarity grades are usually within a grade, but imperfections can be hidden or partly hidden under the claws or tube setting.
At the bottom of all our valuations, we state: “Gemstones were examined in the setting and would have to be removed for an accurate assessment”.
Make sure, if you are doing valuations that you have a disclaimer of some sort to protect you and your customers.
To connect or for more information, articles and content visit www.gemlab.co.za, you can connect with Jeremy on social media as well:
I have forwarded Peter Carruthers email below. Peter has inspired me for many years and offers priceless advise on running a small business. He, like many of us has been through hard times and even lost his business many years ago. Since then he has dedicated his life to helping small business. I have attended some of his seminars when he has been in SA and I have always left inspired.
Take a listen to some thoughts on not giving up in this podcast episode.
To connect or for more information, articles and content visit www.gemlab.co.za, you can connect with Jeremy on social media as well:
Gemology is the science dealing with natural and artificial gemstone materials dating back to the 19th Century. It is a geoscience and a branch of mineralogy.
The first qualifications were initiated when the National Association of Goldsmiths of Great Britain set up a gemological committee in 1908. The committee matured into the Gemological Association of Great Britain, also known as Gem-A. The first U.S. graduate of Gem-A’s diploma course in 1929 was Robert Shipley who later establish both the GIA and the American Gem Society.
We’re so grateful for these institutions to assist us in regulating a difficult industry, as many people are under the impression that one can just look at a gemstone and identified it. We hear comments daily of some unqualified person giving incorrect identifications of gemstones.
We will never give an opinion without running the necessary tests and examinations even if it is glass.To connect or for more information, articles and content visit www.gemlab.co.za, you can connect with Jeremy on social media as well:
February 2021 feels a little anti-climactic don’t you think?
2020 is, thankfully, behind us. The holiday season is over, and we’ve taken the decorations down. Our collective New Year’s hangovers have abated.
So many people are looking at the ravages of this tremendously difficult time and wondering where to go from here. TERS has stopped, debt holidays are over, and debit orders are bouncing all over the place. Established businesses have closed their doors after years of pouring blood, sweat, and tears into their endeavour. Many of us are battling to stay afloat and wonder if we’ll be among those who have to call it a day as well.
Author Roy T. Bennett has this to say:
“Your hardest times often lead to the greatest moments of your life. Keep going. Tough situations build strong people in the end.”
**You can give up, or you can get up.
Listen to the podcast episode for encouragement today.**To connect or for more information, articles and content visit www.gemlab.co.za, you can connect with Jeremy on social media as well:
“Isn't it wonderful to be alive? You know, you can forget all about it. Then suddenly you remember and think of all the things you can do. I am alive. How wonderful!” ~ Sophia Loren.
Are you living or merely existing?
The C-word certainly has done a number on us and many people have come into the new year still feeling lost, aimless, and perhaps looking for some higher purpose.
The fact is, though, that time will pass – your life will pass - whether you have a plan or not.
So, the question is, what are you going to do about it?
Listen to this podcast episode for more.
To connect or for more information, articles and content visit www.gemlab.co.za, you can connect with Jeremy on social media as well:
As I turned the calendar over from December 2020 to January 2021, I did so with a sense of relief. I’m sure many of you feel the same.
But really, what has changed?
Yes, there is the symbolic distance between the old year and the new year, but our lives remain exactly as they were 24 short hours ago. Chances are, many of us feel uncertain and anxious about the future. It’s only natural after the year we’ve endured. But I feel strongly that the only way to move forward is by harnessing the incredible (and largely untapped) potential of our minds. Einstein once said that insanity is doing the same thing over and over and expecting different results.
Are we guilty of that?
Survival depends on change, and if what we did last year wasn’t working for us, then it makes sense to change it. Change is hard. It’s uncomfortable. Many of us do what we have always done and managed to get by, and thereby avoided having to make sweeping changes in our lives. But what happens when our situation gets so bad that moving out of our comfort zone is the only choice we have? Ask yourself: How far do I need to fall, how uncomfortable and desperate do I need to be, before I am willing to make some necessary changes in my life?
To connect or for more information, articles and content visit www.gemlab.co.za, you can connect with Jeremy on social media as well:
Coloured gemstones are can be incredibly complex to evaluate and understand.
It’s with this in mind that Gübelin chose to launch their own gemstone grading system known as Gübelin Points. This rating service takes into account a stone’s beauty, rarity, and attractiveness and refers to the three domains as quality, rarity, and salience. They feel that this system provides a better orientation for collectors when they are looking for new pieces and helps to simplify the buying process. Until the end of 2021, this service will cost you CHF100 (R2,520.00) irrespective of species.
Certainly, buyers and sellers in this industry want to go about their business with the peace of mind that comes from knowing that their investments are the real deal.
Considering the above, we’d like to share a few poorly kept secrets with you:
- The Gem Lab has been rating coloured stones using the ICSL grading system for over 30 years.
- This system takes into account all the characteristics of the gemstone which directly relates to price, based on the final grade of the stone.
- This result is presented in percentages and plain English.
- Once we have the final grade, the stone’s rarity is considered by the price guides. We have found that gemguide.com offers the most consistency with prices and takes into account rarity and origin.
- Our fee structure takes the species into account otherwise the grading can outprice the gemstones worth.
To connect or for more information, articles and content visit www.gemlab.co.za, you can connect with Jeremy on social media as well:
Avoiding sales blunders can be tricky, especially when your staff are not equipped with the knowledge they need to sell well.
Simply that we need to be trained at our job, and we need to constantly work on our skills and knowledge to be effective.
To connect or for more information, articles and content visit www.gemlab.co.za, you can connect with Jeremy on social media as well:
I don’t believe that the “customer is always right” – and certainly not in today’s world where we all need to be careful that we’re not getting manipulated by self-serving opportunists. I also believe that there are a growing number of customers who are simply impossible to please.
However, I do believe that if we use our discretion and treat the customer as if they are right, then we have found a powerful tool to diffuse a potentially bad situation while retaining genuine clients.To connect or for more information, articles and content visit www.gemlab.co.za, you can connect with Jeremy on social media as well:
It’s been such a pleasure interacting with you recently; not only regarding the complexities and definitions of gemstones but also about business wisdom which keeps the cogs turning. In many ways, it’s the minutia of your day to day operation which can make or break your business in the long term. Let me give you a couple of examples.
To connect or for more information, articles and content visit www.gemlab.co.za, you can connect with Jeremy on social media as well:
"The moral of the story is, respect everyone, you never know who you are attending to and they could just help pay your salary." In this podcast episode Jeremy shares two life lessons when it comes to how you treat people, and especially your customers.
Listen on your favourite podcast channel and connect on social media or email jeremy@gemlab.co.za.
Visit www.gemlab.co.za for more resources, information and content.
Years ago, when I was doing basic military training, I found myself on kitchen duty and in front of me was a massive barrel of potatoes that needed to be peeled. As you can imagine, my first thought was extremely negative!
But then I thought, well, I am on army time and not my own, so it doesn’t actually matter how long it takes to peel this mountain of potatoes. So, I took my time and started peeling one at a time, and before I knew it, they were all done. (It was really quite therapeutic!)
I learnt so much from that demonstration, and it has helped me enormously in business today. I have made it a practice to get the task done right now to the best of my ability and the end result will speak for itself.
Listen to the podcast for my tips to a new way of doing business!
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So, what's the real difference between a synthetic moissanite and a diamond? Take a listen at the podcast episode today to find out!
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Should I sell synthetics?
Obviously, the choice is yours. However, in my opinion, there is no reason not to include synthetics in your jewellery range. I feel that in the present climate, we should certainly open our minds to ways of selling an affordable range of products which serve to increase turnover.
Since COVID-19, those forward-thinking people who branched out and started online sales are very glad that they did.
It doesn’t mean, though, that you can’t still offer clients your special brand of jewellery, after all, Christmas is approaching and before we know it, we’ll be in 2021.
To connect or for more information, articles and content visit www.gemlab.co.za, you can connect with Jeremy on social media as well:
Synthetic gemstones aren't something we need to avoid in the trade but rather they can be something we leverage and use to benefit customers (as long as we are honest and know our facts.)
In this podcast episode we take a look at how a ruby the size of a thumb can grow in a lab in hours, so why not underground as well? Conditions in a lab need to duplicate those in nature otherwise the stone wouldn't form.
For more information visit The Gem Lab and subscribe to our weekly mail to receive more insights into the jewellery industry today.
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Sources:
Here is evidence of crystals crystalizing a yard in a day.
https://www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2020/10/201006132126.htm?fbclid=IwAR2ZHk86rd5G_HBIUItqlHgq24QbiP819Byy7Hd4yQK8EzJoNEM8h_BLWNE
Why use a diamond for an engagement ring? There are so many different coloured stones one could use for an engagement ring.
All gemstones can be graded accurately by using the ICSL gemstone grading system except diamonds. The International standard for grading diamonds is the GIA diamond grading system. For more information on the ICSL grading system go to our website www.gemlab.co.za
There is quite a bit of confusion when it comes to the metals used in jewellery. This podcast will explain the metals used.
To connect or for more information, articles and content visit www.gemlab.co.za, you can connect with Jeremy on social media as well:
This podcast will help you decide on what diamond to purchase for your engagement ring. It will illustrate how each of the 4C's can affect the price.
To connect or for more information, articles and content visit www.gemlab.co.za, you can connect with Jeremy on social media as well:
This podcast is to help you make up your mind on what diamond to buy and how the grading of the diamond can affect the price. It will also show you how to save money on not paying for something that you can't see or that will affect the appearance of the diamond.
This podcast is to help you make up your mind on what diamond to buy and how the grading of the diamond can affect the price. It will also show you how to save money on not paying for something that you can't see or that will affect the appearance of the diamond.
To connect or for more information, articles and content visit www.gemlab.co.za, you can connect with Jeremy on social media as well:
A gemstone can be a very good investment provided you get the right advice from a qualified gemmologist that is familiar specifically in investment gemstones. A question we get asked often is, "Is a diamond a good investment"? the answer is not if you purchase the diamond from a retailer. The key to investing in gemstones is getting the right advise, price and the finest quality gemstones. It must be THE GEM LAB Approved.
To connect or for more information, articles and content visit www.gemlab.co.za, you can connect with Jeremy on social media as well: